• Title/Summary/Keyword: Wave breaking

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Variation of Beach Processes and Harbor Sedimentation in an Area of Large Tide (조석이 큰 해역에서의 해안과정과 항만퇴적의 변화)

  • 신승호;이중우
    • Journal of Korean Port Research
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.57-74
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    • 2001
  • In the past, the predictions of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were mainly relied on the hydraulic model tests and empirical methods. In recent years, however, as computers have come into wide use, more accurate models have gradually been developed and thus replaced those conventional methods. For prediction of topographical change near the coastal area, we need informations of wave and current conditions in the numerical model which should be calculated in advance. Numerical model introduced in this study combines wave refraction-diffraction, breaking, bottom friction, lateral mixing, and critical shear stress and three sub-models for simulating waves, currents, and bottom change were briefly discussed. Simulations of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were also described at the coast neighboring Bangpo Harbor, Anmyundo, Chungnam, where the area has suffered accumulation of drifting sand in a small fishing harbor with a wide tidal range. We also made model test for the new layout of the harbor and planned south breakwater for preventing intrusion of sand. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and harbor sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to collect lots of field observation data, including waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

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On the Viscous Flow Around Breaking Waves Generated by a Submerged Cylinder(Part 1 : Wave Pattern and Surface Pressure) (몰수실린더에 의하여 생성되는 쇄파주위 점성유동의 고찰 (제1부 : 파형 및 압력분포))

  • B.S. Hyun;Y.H. Shin
    • Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.37 no.1
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    • pp.82-90
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    • 2000
  • An experimental study has been carried out at circulating water channel to investigate the non-breaking and breaking waves generated by a submerged circular cylinder steadily moving under the free surface. Free surface profiles and pressure distributions on cylinder surface were measured at various submerged depths of cylinder. They were complemented by the measurements of velocities, head losses and turbulence intensities in the wakes of body and "breaker". Part 1 of this three-part paper describes the experimental arrangement and the patterns of wave profile and pressure distribution at various depths of submergence. These databank contributions are of special interest in traditional ship hydrodynamics. In Part 2, special focuses are made to elucidate the viscous and turbulent aspects of flow field. Finally Part 3 will deal with the visualization of instantaneous vortical flow to study the mutual interaction between vorticies shedded from the free-surface and the cylinder using a Particle Image Velocimetry.

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Coastal Currents Driven by Irregular Waves (불규칙파에 의한 연안류)

  • Yoo, Dong Hoon
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.10 no.4
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    • pp.151-158
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    • 1990
  • Various factors may contribute on the mixing processes in the surf zone formed by irregular waves. The turbulence motion driven by wave breaking may be one of the major causes, the effect due to spatial variation on current velocity be a secondary one, and the additional process may result from the irregular superposition of radiation stresses or wave breaking dissipation incurred by random breaking waves in a broadened surf zone. In the present study a numerical model of spectral waves and induced currents was developed using a superposition technique with ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ closure for mixing process and applied to a field situation of longshore current generated by spectral waves on a uniform beach. It was found from the application that the surf-zone mixing processes formed by irregular waves can be well described by using ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ equations if the source of ${\kappa}$ is properly represented. The nonlinear energy transfer was also found to have some influence on the velocity profile of longshore current particularly in very shallow water region near coast.

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Analysis of Relative Wave Elevation Around Semi-submersible Platform Through Model Test: Focusing on Comparison of Wave Probe Characteristics

  • Nam, Hyun-Seung;Park, Dong-Min;Cho, Seok Kyu;Hong, Sa Young
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.36 no.1
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    • pp.1-10
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    • 2022
  • Recently, as the offshore structures are operated in the deep-sea oil fields, interest in the analysis of relative wave elevation around platforms is increased. In this study, it is examined how the analysis results differ depending on the characteristics of the wave probe when interpreting the relative wave elevation in the model test. First, by conducting the wave probe comparison experiment in the two-dimensional wave tank, it is confirmed how the measured values differ according to the type of wave probe for the same physical phenomenon. Two types of wave probe are selected, the resistance type and the capacitance type, and the causes of the difference in measured values is studied. After that, the model test of the semi-submersible platform is conducted to investigate the relative wave elevation. Relative wave elevation is measured with the wave probes used in the wave probe comparison experiment and analyzed to estimate the asymmetric factor and the extreme upwell. The results between the two types of wave probes are compared, and qualitative study for the cause of the difference is conducted by photographing the physical phenomenon using a high-speed camera. Through the above study, it is confirmed that the capacitance type wave probe shows a larger measured value than the resistance type under the breaking-wave condition, and the same results are obtained for the asymmetric factor and the extreme upwell. These results is thought to be due to the difference in the measurement principle between wave probes, which is whether or not they measured water bubbles. This implies that the model test should be conducted using appropriate wave probes by considering the physical phenomenon to be analyzed.

Experimental Study of Overtopping Void Ratio by Wave Breaking (쇄파에 의한 월파의 기포분율에 대한 실험적 연구)

  • Ryu, Yong-Uk;Lee, Jong-In
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.157-167
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    • 2008
  • The aeration of an overtopping wave on a vertical structure generated by a plunging wave was investigated through laboratory measurements of void fraction. The overtopping wave occurring after wave breaking becomes multi-phased and turbulent with significant aeration, so that the void fraction of the flow is of importance. In this study, fiber optic reflectometer and bubble image velocimetry were employed to measure the void fraction, velocity, and layer thickness of the overtopping flow. Mean properties were obtained by ensembleand time-averaging the repeated instantaneous void fractions and velocities. The mean void fractions show that the overtopping wave is very high-aerated near the overtopping wave front and relatively low-aerated near the deck surface and rear free surface of the wave. The flow rate and momentum of the overtopping flow estimated using the measured data show that the void ratio is an important parameter to consider in the multiphase flow. From the similarity profiles of the depth-averaged void fraction, velocity, and layer thickness, one-dimensional empirical equations were obtained and used to estimate the flow rate and momentum of the overtopping flow.

Numerical Analysis of the Hydraulic Characteristics of a Boundary Layer Streaming over Beach Cusps Surf-Zone Using LES and One Equation Dynamic Smagorinsky Turbulence Model (LES와 One Equation Dynamic Smagorinsky 난류모형을 이용한 Beach Cusps 쇄파역에서의 경계층 Streaming 수치해석)

  • Cho, Yong Jun
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.32 no.1
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    • pp.55-68
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    • 2020
  • In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfully be duplicated by generating two obliquely colliding Edge waves in front of beach cusps. The amplitude AB and length LB of Beach Cusp were elected to be 1.25 m and 18 m, respectively based on the measured data along the Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that boundary layer streaming was formed at every phase of shoaling process without exception, and the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to occur at the crest of sand bar. In RUN 1 where the shortest waves were deployed, the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to be around 0.32 m/s, which far exceeds the amplitude of free stream by two times. It is also noted that the maximum boundary layer streaming mentioned above greatly differs from the analytical solution by Longuet-Higgins (1957) based on wave Reynolds stress. In doing so, we also identify the recovery procedure of natural beaches in swells prevailing mild seas, which can be summarized such as: as the infra-gravity waves formed in swells by the resonance wave-wave interaction arrives near the breaking line, the sediments ascending near the free surface by the Phase II waves orbital motion were carried toward the pinnacle of foreshore by the shoreward flow commenced at the steep front of breaking waves, and were deposited near the pinnacle of foreshore due to the infiltration.

Wave Control by Tide-Adapting Submerged Breakwater (조위차 극복형 잠제의 파랑제어)

  • Lee, Woo-Dong;Jeong, Yeon-Myeong;Hur, Dong-Soo
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.33 no.6
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    • pp.573-580
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    • 2019
  • A submerged breakwater is a coastal structure built under water with excellent landscape. The depth of the crest of the breakwater should be maintained at more than a certain level in order for the submerged breakwater to control waves properly. This means that the effect of blocking waves deceases sharply at high tide in coastal areas with large tidal differences. In this study, we proposed a Tide-Adapting Submerged Breakwater (TA-SB) to overcome this problem, and then we conducted hydraulic model experiments to evaluate the performance of the TA-SB for controlling waves. The experimental results showed that the tapered wings attached to the crest of the TA-SB helped induce forced breaking waves. In particular, they were very effective in blocking waves and attenuating wave energy at high tide. In addition, the wave control performance of the proposed TA-SB was far superior to the Tide-Adapting Low-Crested Structure (TA-LCS) of the previous study.

A study on hydrodynamic characteristics for. construction progress of rubble mound breakwaters (사석제의 건설 공정설계를 위한 수리학적 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Hong-Jin;Ryu, Cheong-Ro;Kim, Heon-Tae
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2003.10a
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    • pp.317-322
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    • 2003
  • The Sectional and Spatial failure modes are discussed using the experimental data with long crest wave and multi-directional waves considering the failure modes occurring around the rubble-mound breakwater. The spatial & sectional stability and failure mode around the rubble-mound structures with construction progress can be summarized as follows: 1) The rubble mound structures at basic construction step was occurred serious failures when ${\xi}$ was about 6.5. 2) It was clarified that the failure modes at the round head of detached breakwater are classified as failure by plunging breaking on the slope, failure by direct incident wave force and failure by scouring at the toe of the detached break water. 3) The failure mode was found in the lower wave height than the design wave by the breaker depth effect. 4) The failure on the slope were also developed at the lee side of the round head because diffracted wave propagated into the behind area by grouping effect of multi-directional irregular wave.

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A Numerical Model of Nonlinear Stream Function Wave Theory by the Least Squares Method (최소자승법을 사용한 유량함수 비선형 파랑이론의 수치모형)

  • 서승남
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.6 no.4
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    • pp.340-352
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    • 1994
  • A numerical model of nonlinear stream function wave theory evolved from Dean's model (1965) is presented. The stream function theory has been evaluated to be an accurate and useful tool for engineering applications. Effects of damping coefficient employed in a linearized simultaneous equation and number of points in the numerical integration of model on numerical solutions are assessed. Most accurate wave characteristics calculated by the present model are tabulated using revised Dean's Table (Chaplin, 1980) input parameters. Since the well-known feature of nearly breaking waves that with increasing wave steepness the wave length as well as integral properties have a maximum prior to the limiting wave height is represented by the model, the accuracy of model can be proved.

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Study on Source Waye hnalysis in Crack Growth by AE Method (AE법(法)에 의한 균열성장의 Source Wave해석(解析)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Han, Eung-Kyo;Kim, Tong-Kyu;Choi, Man-Yong;Kim, Kyung-Suk
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Nondestructive Testing
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    • v.3 no.2
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    • pp.5-12
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    • 1984
  • The purpose of this paper is to decide volume of crack by AE source wave analysis. The material studied in this paper was Titanium Alloy. Transient wave memory has 50 nano sampling time. The response function of specimens and transducer was obtained experimentally by use of specimens and transducer was obtained experimentally by use of breaking pencil lead as a reference simulated AE source, and the source waves were dertermined in terms of energy release-time functions explicitly through a time domain deconvolution. From experimental results, we can determine size of cracked volume.

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