• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.252-258
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• 2019

In this paper, the time history of the surface elevation measured at the Draupner platform in the North Sea in 1995 is used to examine the statistical characteristics of the wave data. The wave statistics for 48 surface measurements, which contain three freak wave occurrences, are summarized. The quartiles, boxplots, correlations, and pair plots of 15 variables, along with the abnormality index, are presented. The kurtosis and skewness of the surface elevation are two variables that are highly correlated with the abnormality index, which defines freak waves. Principal coordinate analysis showed that the direction of the changes in the abnormality index agreed with the changes in the kurtosis and skewness. In addition, various wave heights, except the maximum wave height, showed a similar direction for the height changes, and various wave periods showed a similar direction for the period changes. Based on the correlations and PCA analysis, the kurtosis and skewness of the surface profiles are the two most important variables to predict the abnormality index.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.75-82
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• 1995

The free surface effects on the aerodynamic performance of 2-D wings are investigated based on the potential flow approximation. The wing is represented b source and vortex distributions on the wing surface. The steady free surface effect is taken into account by source distribution on the free surface and the velocity potentials of air and water flows are obtained. Using three different techniques, namely, positive image method, inverse image method and source distribution method, numerical results are obtained for wave elevation, pressure distribution and lift coefficient with various foil sections. The wave elevation calculated by the inverse image method is shown to be very small even at higher speeds so that the free surface effect on the performance of wings is regraded negligible. However, the wave elevations by the positive image method and source distribution method are relatively high at higher speeds and accordingly the free surface effects on wings can not be neglected.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.31-35
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• 1986

A bore is a transition between different uniform flows of water. If a long wave of elevation travels in shallow water it steepens and forms a bore. The bore is undular if the change in surface elevation of the wave is less than 0.28 of the original depth of water. This paper describes the growth of an undular bore from a long wave which forms a gentle transition between a uniform flow and still water. A physical account of its development is followed by the results of numerical calculations. Finite-difference approximations are used in the partial differential equations of motion. For undular bores, numerical calculations show that (i) the relationship between relative elevation and relative velocity given by long wave theory is approached for an undular bore, (ii) the amplitude of first crest of an undular bore approaches a finite limit approximately at an exponential rate, and (iii) the distance between the first two crests increases without bound, approximately logarithmically.

• 한국기계연구소 소보
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• s.9
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• pp.153-167
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• 1982

From first-order thin-ship theory, we can obtain the" wave resistance, wave amplitude functions, wave elevation along the hull, sinkage and trim of a ship moving with constant speed into calm water. Generally, these calculations of ship is called with Michell’s Theory, and there is all the difference between calculated wave resistance and residual resistance from conventional wave resis¬tance test. But, these calculated results are important reference materials for initial hull form design procedure. Various calculated results for Shearer’ s Model, Wigley’s Model and Series 60 4210W Model have been calculated using this theory. The results are compared with the corresponding experimental values, and the agreement between theoretical and experimental values is considered satisfactory.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.22-27
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• 2004

Waveheight attenuation efficiencies of floating breakwaters in water of finite depth for a VLFS are studied numerically in accordance with the two body radiation-diffraction problem. Four different forms of the breaker are tested with a solid VLFS. The radiation-diffraction wave elevations between the breakwater and the VLFS are predicted directly instead of the far-field transmission-reflection coefficients of the breakwater.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.319-329
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• 2015

Submerged breakwaters are used to prevent shore line erosion and sediment transportation. One of their advantages is low visual impact. In this paper, the effects of discontinuous submerged breakwaters over water surface elevation was numerically studied considering the extended Boussinesq equations as governing equations using MIKE21 software. The result of discontinuous breakwater was compared with a beach without breakwater. The results showed that the gap dramatically effects on surface elevation from shore line to offshore. It is also evident from results that with approaching the center of the gap, fluctuation of surface elevation is generated. It is because of passing longshore currents towards offshore through the gap which leads to an increase in sediment transportation rate. Nevertheless, transferring water mass from breakwater gap results in powerful rip currents leading to high changes on longshore wave profile.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.87-95
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• 2000

Spectral wave models are applied to the area of Kyung-gi bay with two different combinations. One combination assumes a constant tidal elevation over the whole region when applying the wave model to the area. In this case no tidal currents exist in any place. The other combination employs tide model as well as wave model so that tidal condition is defined at every computation time when wave modelling is carried out. Significant wave heights and wave directions are shown for these two cases. With these two different constraints of tidal variation, the results are checked and compared with each other. Both results are found significantly different from each other.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.43 no.1 s.145
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• pp.96-102
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• 2006

In this study, an optimization routine with genetic algorithms is coupled for the selection of free variables for the production of a control signal for the motion of wave board in the numerical wave tank. An excitation function for the controlling of the wave board is formulated on basis of amplitude modulation for the generation of nonlinear wave packets. The found variables by the optimization serve for the determination of wave board motion both with the computation and with the experiment. The breaking criterion of the water waves is implemented as boundary condition for the optimization procedure. With the analysis of the time registration on the local position in the wave tank the optimization routine is accomplished until the given design wave with defined surface elevation is found. Water surface elevation and associated fields of velocity and pressure are numerically computed.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.112-120
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• 2010

In this paper time series wave data measured continuously for 24 hours during a storm in Yura Sea Area are used to investigate statistical characteristics of nonlinear waves. The exceedance probability of wave height is compared using the Rayleigh distribution and the Edgeworth-Rayleigh (ER) distribution. Wave data which show stationary state for 10 hours contain 4600 waves approximately. The Gram-Chalier distribution fits the probability of wave elevation better than the Gaussian distribution. The Rayleigh ($H_{rms}$) distribution follows the exceedance probability of wave height in general and predicts the probability of freak waves well. The ER distribution overpredicts the exceedance probability of wave heights and the occurrence of freak waves. If wave data measured for 30 minute period which contains 250 waves are used, the ER distribution can predict the occurrence probability of freak waves well. But it overpredicts the probability of overall wave height If no freak wave occurs, the Rayleigh ($H_{rms}$) distribution agrees well with wave height distribution for the most of wave height ranges. The wave height distribution of freak waves of which height are less than 10 m shows similar tendency compared with freak waves greater than 10 m. The value of $H_{max}/H_{1/3}$ is related to the kurtosis of wave elevation. It seems that there exists threshold value of the kurtosis for the occurrence of freak waves.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.5 s.54
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• pp.19-24
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• 2003

The question of wave source identification in a wave maker problem is the primary objective of the this paper. With the observed wave elevation, the existence of the wave maker velocity is discussed with the help of the mathematical theory of inverse problems. Utilizing the property of the Strum-Liouville system and compactness, the uniqueness and the ill-posedness(in the sense of stability) for the identification are proved.