• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• v.2
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• pp.820-823
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• 2006

Nonlinear internal waves (NLIW) were studied as a unusual phenomena in the ocean decades ago. As the quality, quantity and variety of satellite images improve over decades, it is founded that NLIW is a ubiquitous phenomenon. Over the continental shelf of northern South China Sea (SCS), both optical and microwave images show that there are trains of NLIW packets near Dongsha Atoll (20.7N, 116.8E). Each packet contains several NLIW fronts. These NLIW packets are nearly parallel to each other and they are refracted, reflected or diffracted by the change of ocean bottom topography. Based on Korteweg de Vries (KdV) theory and the assumption that the bright/dark lines in the satellite images are centers of convergence/divergence of NLIW fronts, one may (1) sort NLIW packets in the same satellite image into groups of the same source, but generated at different tidal cycles, (2) relate NLIW packets in consecutive satellite images of one day apart, (3) locating faint signals of NLIW fronts in a satellite image. The NLIWs travel more than 100 km/day near Dongsha Atoll, with higher speed in deeper water. The bias and standard deviation of predicted location of NLIW front from its true location is about 1% and 5.1%, respectively.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2005.09b
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• pp.842-845
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• 2005

A method for the numerical simulation of two-dimensional free-surface flow resulting from the propagation of regular gravity waves over topography with arbitrary bottom shape is presented. The method is based on the numerical solution of the Euler equations subject to the fully nonlinear free-surface boundary conditions and the appropriate bottom, inflow and outflow conditions using a hybrid finite-differences and spectral-method scheme. The formulation includes a boundary-fitted transformation, and is suitable for extension to incorporate large-eddy simulation (LES) and large-wave simulation (LWS) terms for turbulence and breaking wave modeling, respectively. Results are presented for the simulation of the free-surface flow over two different bottom topographies, with constant slope values of 1:10 and 1:20, two different inflow wave lengths and two different inflow wave heights. An absorption outflow zone is utilized and the results indicate minimum wave reflection from the outflow boundary. Over the bottom slope, lengths of waves in the linear regime are modified according to linear theory dispersion, while wave heights remain more or less unchanged. For waves in the nonlinear regime, wave lengths are becoming shorter, while the free surface elevation deviates from its initial sinusoidal shape.

• Laser Solutions
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.1-6
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• 2014

Femtosecond laser induced shock generation in water and vitreous humor of enucleated porcine eyeball was investigated. When focusing the femtosecond laser into the liquid mediums, the acoustic waves with a frequency of about 15.6kHz could be observed by using wide-band microphone. The amplitude of the acoustic signals from water has attained a maximum under a laser power of about 5mW. Further increment of the power results in a decrement of the acoustic signals due to nonlinear optical process including filamentation of laser beam. We have further investigated the effect of femtosecond laser induced acoustic waves by applying the laser pulse into enucleated porcine eyeball. The comparative studies on both healthy and diseased eyeballs led us propose that the femtosecond laser pulses could be utilized as a novel tools for treatment of partially detached retina layers from their choroid structures.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.61-69
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• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.143-151
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• 1990

The sediment transport in shallow water regions has been studied in various ways and, accordingly, many formulas have been proposed. However, when these formulas are applied practically in the field, they are not sufficient to fully estimate the sediment transport rate yet. The primary reason is how to take into account the effect of irregularities of field waves : wave heights, periods and directions. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate stochastic and kinematic characteristics of waves in three dimensional random seas in order to more accurately estimate it. In particular, the asymmetrical properties of directional spectrum become significant and play an important role in various phenomena in a shallow water region. In this study, their effects of incident waves the joint distribution of wave heights, periods and directions are investigated through field measurements.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.70-86
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• 2015

Short crested waves play an important role for planning and design of harbours. In this context a numerical simulation is carried out to evaluate wave tranquility inside a real harbour located in east coast of India. The annual offshore wave climate proximity to harbour site is established using Wave Model (WAM) hindcast wave data. The deep water waves are transformed to harbour front using a Near Shore spectral Wave model (NSW). A directional analysis is carried out to determine the probable incident wave directions towards the harbour. Most critical threshold wave height and wave period is chosen for normal operating conditions using exceedence probability analysis. Irregular random waves from various directions are generated confirming to Pierson Moskowitz spectrum at 20m water depth. Wave incident into inner harbor through harbor entrance is performed using Boussinesq Wave model (BW). Wave disturbance experienced inside the harbour and at various berths are analysed. The paper discusses the progresses took place in short wave modeling and it demonstrates application of wave climate for the evaluation of harbor tranquility using various types of wave models.

• Water for future
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.441-451
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• 1989

Using the wave data by typhoons LEE, VERA, THELMA which gave great damages in the Korean penisula, the significant waves based on zero-up & down crossing and Tucker-Draper method are compared with those from the wave energy spectrum. And the histograms of individual waves obtained from zero-up crossing method are presented and compared with the Rayleigh, Weibull, Gluhovski, Ibrageemov and Goda distributions, and also the Chi-square goodness of fit test is applied to each theoretical distributions. It is shown that the significant wave heights by zero-up crossing method are very well agreed to those by energy spectrum method. The wave heights are found to well follow the Rayleigh and Goda distributions by the Chi-square test.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.69-91
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• 1992

A new type of horizontal submerged break water or fixed structure to control waves near coastal area is introduced to focus wave energy before or behind it. Intentionally, the water depth near the structure is changed gradually to get a refraction and diffraction effect. The concentration of wave energy due to the structure was analyzed for the selected design of structure. The shape of the submerged structure in consideration is a circular combined with elliptical curve not to cause reflection of waves at the extreme edge of the structure but cause wave scattering. The direction of the structure against the incident wave is changed easily in the model Applying a regular wave train the following were examined. 1) whether a crescent plain submerged structure designed by the wave refraction theory can concentrate wave energy at a focal zone behind and before it without wave breaking phenomenon. 2) Location of maximum wave amplification factor in terms of the incident wave direction, wave period, etc. In any event the study would contribute to control waves near coastal area and to protect a beach from erosion without interruption of ocean view it is an useful study for the concentration of wave energy efficiently with the increase of wave height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.324-338
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• 2015

Analytical solutions for interaction between seabed and waves such as progressive wave or partial standing wave with arbitrary reflection ratio or standing wave have been developed by many researchers including Lee et al.(2014; 2015a; 2015b; 2015c; 2015d) and Yamamoto et al.(1978). They handled the pore-water pressure as oscillating pore-water pressure and residual pore-water pressure separately and discussed the seabed response on each pore-water pressure. However, based on field observations and laboratory experiments, the oscillating and residual pore-water pressures in the seabed do occur not separately but together at the same time. Therefore, the pore-water pressure should be investigated from a total pore-water pressure point of view. Thus, in this paper, the wave-induced seabed response including liquefaction depth was discussed among oscillating, residual, and total pore-water pressures' point of view according to the variation of wave, seabed, and flow conditions. From the results, in the field of flow with the same direction of progressive wave, the following seabed response has been identified; with increase of flow velocity, the dimensionless oscillating pore-water pressure increases, but the dimensionless residual pore-water pressure decreases, and consequently the dimensionless total pore-water pressure and the dimensionless liquefaction depth decrease.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2017.05a
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• pp.329-329
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• 2017

In this study attempted to evaluate the stability of the protection methods by examining hydraulic characteristics of the area around the point in which marine cable protector is installed such as surf zone occurrence point of shore-end submarine cables suitable for coastal marine environmental conditions, flow rate t the tope of the protector and maximum wave height, and to provide basic data for the selection of the optimal protection method. In performing hydraulic model experiments, the topography of submarine cable installation location was reproduced in 2-D sectional channel, and models appropriate for experimental scale and similitude law were produced and installed for each condition of submarine cables and protectors. Since the topography and submarine cable protectors were reproduced and installed in 2-D sectional channel, the exact reproduction of surf and transformation in shallow water zone was possible, and thus the physical properties could be clearly analyzed. For stability review, an experiment to examine the stability was conducted using a wave maker with 50-year frequency design waves as target, and wave height and cycles were applied based on the approximate lowest low water level(Approx. L.L.W), which is the most dangerous in submarine cable protection methods. As for experimental time, typhoon passing time in summer (about 3 hours) was applied, and wave patterns and deviation ratio of the submarine cable protector were investigated after making irregular waves corresponding to design waves. In addition, current meter and wave height meter were installed at the installation location of the submarine cable protector, and the flow rates and wave height at the top of the protector were measured and analyzed to review hydraulic properties.