• 한국농공학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.85-94
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• 1996

For the geotechnical analysis in the construction and Deign of the coastal structures, one of the most important factors is the existence of waves. The dynamic behavior and deformation of the seabed subjected to wave load must be considered. It is expected that the soil behavior in the seabed subjected to cyclic wave load is much different from that on the ground subjected to dynamic forces such as earthquake. The purposes of this study are as follows ; Firstly, to provide a testing method to generate wave loads in the laboratory and measuring oscillatory pore water pressures in the unsaturated marine silty sand specimen, Secondly, to analyze the mechanism of wave induced pore water pressures and liquefaction potentials under the conditions in the testing. It is shown that the test set-up manufactured especially for the test is good to generate oscillatory wave pressures to the specimen with sine wave type. From the results of this study, it is understood that the pore water pressure due to induced waves is not accumulated as the wave number increases but is periodically varied with wave passage on still water surface. The magnitude of pore water pressures measured tends to be diminished radically with a certain time lag under the action of both high and low waves as depth increases.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2004년도 학술대회지
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• pp.229-234
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• 2004

A Typhoon wave is generated by wind fields during the Passage of Typhoon. Transporting wind field makes wind wave and swell in the open sea, and then, those wave components are transported in the shallow water. Typhoon waves in the shallow water is generated by Typhoon wind field and incident wave. Bisides, Incident waves to the shallow water are deformated by topographic conditions. This paper estimated the analysis of the Typhoon waves by wind fields and incident waves according to wave action balance equation model. As the result of wave numerical experiment, wave field during the passage of Typhoon 'Memi' in the shallow water is strongly effect by wind fields. Wave action balance equaion can be partially used for Typhoon wave simulations.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.511-520
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• 2007

심해역 파랑모형인 WAM에 쇄파와 삼파 상호작용을 추가하여 모형의 적용영역을 천해역으로 확장하였다. 모형의 검증을 위해 영일만에서의 파랑변형 모의를 수행하였고, 수치모의된 파랑자료는 영일만 입구 1개소와 영일만 내부 2개소의 관측 결과와 양호한 일치를 보여주었다. 수치모의 결과를 보면, 영일만 입구에서 입사되는 파랑은 영일만 내부로 진입하는 과정에서 바닥에 의한 에너지 감쇠와 쇄파 작용 등으로 인해 파고의 점진적 감소가 나타나고, 파향은 주로 NE 계열로 입사되어 연안 근처에서는 굴절 효과로 인해 해안에 대해서 수직한 방향으로 진행하는 경향을 보여주었다.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2001년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.117-121
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• 2001

For the effective development or preservation of Tokdo, the natural environments in the ambient sea area should be well investigated. The wave deformations and wave breaking in the vicinity have much affected the bottom morphology of Tokdo as well as its ecological environment. The present study investigates the wave deformations and wave breaking through a numerical model. The final goal is to provide the fundamental wave data for the effective development or preservation of Tokdo in future. The extended mild slope equation was applied to Tokdo sea area for three different deep water wave conditions (S, SSE, NNE directions). The results showed that for the S and SSE directions the wave heights in the area between the east island and the west island were very low with the level of 1~2m, but for the NNE direction they appeared pretty high with 3~4m, In the sea area near the northwest of west island, the wave heights were low to be 1~3m for all three directions of deep water wave.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• 제25권spc3호
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• pp.393-397
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• 2003

The seawater exchange breakwaters can be effectively employed to conserve or enhance the water quality inside harbors by transmitting the exterior water into the harbor. In the present study, three shapes of the breakwater, that is, the flow conduit embedded type, the wave chamber type and the oscillating water channel type are compared far their water exchanging capability through regular wave experiments. The results show that the net influx of water appears differently depending on wave period for each breakwater type. The net influx of the wave chamber type is much greater than that of the flow conduit embedded type. It is also ascertained that the influx of the oscillating water channel type can be greatly enhanced by attaining the resonance condition inside the channel at the wave periods frequently occurring at the fields where the breakwaters are to be installed.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.228-234
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• 2012

비쇄파조건의 2차원 수리실험을 통해 직립식 구조물에 대한 월파량 산정식을 제안하였으며, 본 연구의 결과를 EurOtop(2007)과 비교하였다. 상대수심 영향계수(${\gamma}_{kh}$)를 통해 특정 상대수심 범위(kh > 1.55) 내에서는 상대수심이 증가하여도 거의 동일한 영향계수가 산정됨을 알 수 있었다. 그리고 파형경사의 경우에는 파형경사가 증가함에 따라 월파량 영향계수가 감소하는 것을 알 수 있었다. 월파량 산정식은 상대여유고와 무차원 월파량의 지수함수 형태로 표현하였으며, 상대수심 영향계수 및 파형경사 영향계수(${\gamma}_s$)를 제시하여 주기효과를 정량적으로 고려할 수 있는 월파량 산정식을 제안하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.12-16
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• 2009

In this study, the wave profiles and kinematics of highly nonlinear waves at various water depths were calculated using a 2D fully nonlinear Numerical Wave Tank (NWT). The NWT was developed based on the Boundary Element Method (BEM) with the potential theory and the mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian (MEL) time marching scheme by 4th-order Runge-Kutta time integration. The spatial variation of intermediate-depth waves along the direction of wave propagation was caused by the unintended generation of 2nd-order free waves, which were originally investigated both theoretically and experimentally by Goda (1998). These free waves were induced by the mismatch between the linear motion of wave maker and nonlinear displacement of water particles adjacent to the maker. When the 2nd-order wave maker motion was applied, the spatial modulation of the waves caused by the free waves was not observed. The respective magnitudes of the nonlinear wave components for various water depths were compared. It was found that the high-order wave components greatly increase as the water depth decreases. The wave kinematics at various locations were calculated and compared with the linear and the Stokes 2nd-order theories.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• 제27권5_6호
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• pp.1017-1031
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• 2009

The problem of interaction of surface water waves by small undulation at the bottom of a laterally unbounded sea is treated on the basis of linear water wave theory for both normal and oblique incidences. Perturbation analysis is employed to obtain the first order corrections to the reflection and transmission coefficients in terms of integrals involving the shape function c(x) representing the bottom undulation. Fourier transform method and residue theorem are applied to obtain these coefficients. As an example, a patch of sinusoidal ripples is considered in both the cases as the shape function. The principal conclusion is that the reflection coefficient is oscillatory in the ratio of twice the surface wave number to the wave number of the ripples. In particular, there is a Bragg resonance between the surface waves and the ripples, which is associated with high reflection of incident wave energy. The theoretical observations are validated computationally.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.520-526
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• 2006

Wave Energy is a derivative of the solar energy input to the earth, which is accumulated on open water surfaces by the action of the winds Waves are disturbances in the water surface. This paper is interested primarily in progressive waves, which carry energy from one place to another Waves are irregular in size and frequency. Moreover the surface of the sea is one of the most hostile environments for engineering structures and materials. The idea of harnessing the tremendous power of the ocean's waves is not new. Hundreds of wave energy conversion techniques have been suggested over the last two centuries. Although many WECS (Wave Energy Conversion Systems) have been invented, only a few systems have been tested and evaluated. This paper describes the characteristic of WES (Wave Energy System) in terms of, devices, resource and potential, etc.. Finally, this paper provides a summary of general and specific conclusions and recommendations concerning WECS potential in Korea.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.439-459
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• 2022

This paper describes experimental studies of impact pressure generated by breaking regular waves in shallow water on a vertical cylinder. Experimental work was carried out in a shallow water flume using a 1:30 - scale model of a vertical rigid circular hollow cylinder with a diameter 0.2 m. This represents a monopile for shallow water offshore wind turbines, subjected to depth induced breaking regular waves of frequencies of 0.8 Hz. The experimental setup included a 1 in 10 sloping bed followed by horizontal bed with a constant 0.8 m water depth. To determine the breaking characteristics, plunging breaking waves were generated. Free surface elevations were recorded at different locations between the wave paddle to the cylinder. Wave impact pressures on the cylinder at a number of elevations along its height were measured under breaking regular waves. The depth-induced wave breaking characteristics, impact pressures, and wave run-up during impact for various cylinder locations are presented and discussed.