This study is to examine the Hyangnag used in China. Results of the study can be described as below. 1. Hyangnang was also called Hyangdae, Hyanghapo, Hunnang and Chunnang. Perfumes were used to make the body and clothes diffuse a good fragrance. And Perfumes were used to prevent insects and remove related pollutions. It was possible to prevent insects when perfumes were burnt out. 2. In the Han, Song, Yao and Win periods, Hyangnang had Cylinderical, Rectangular, Cylinderical and Rectangular, Circular and Calabach types. These various types were developed into one, Norigae type, in the period of Ching. 3. Hyangnang were decorated mainly with embroideries, knots and seams. Embroideries were applied always onto the surface of Hyangnang. Knots were used mainly in the Song and Win periods, decorative seams were used mainly in the Ching. 4. From the Han to Yao periods, Hyangnang was made of perforate textiles like na and Sa for practical reasons, making perfume smells more easily diffused. From the Win to Ching periods, Hyangang was made of dense textiles like silk and Dan, which could be easily embroidered for decoration purposes. 5. Hyangnang was often hanged down from the waistband and up onto the fore chest or the elbow, or put into the liner of the sleeve. 6. Hyangnang has immanent implications of symbolism, ideology and aristocraticism.
The aim of this study was to investigate the appropriate elasticity of the textile material used for making women's girdle. Background: The elastic textiles have been used for making girdle. The hard type girdle gave high pressure on the body to make slim look. However, excessively high garment pressure caused negative effect to human bodies. This study studied the material giving proper garment pressure in girdle. Method: In this study five experimental girdles were made fabrics with various elasticities. The change of garment pressures and body girths were measured after subjects wearing the experimental girdles. The garment pressure was measured at 10 points. Body girths measured at abdomen, hip, and thigh. Results: The garment pressure of the commercial girdle was high at side of waistband, side femur and back gluteal fold. The experimental girdles made with high elasticity material definitely lowered garment pressure at those points. After wearing experimental girdle their abdomen and hip girths measurements were decreased. But, thigh girth was not reduced. Conclusion: The girdle made with excellent elasticity materials reduced garment pressure significantly and it made body slim as much as the commercial girdle except the thighs. Application: This study provides guideline for the developing girdle that applying optimum range of garment pressure with body slim effect.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.36
no.1
/
pp.99-111
/
2012
This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).
This study develops baseball uniforms for amateur baseball players with excellent appearance and functional movement. This study selected a conventional baseball uniform and developed a new one for amateur baseball players with improved function and appearance based on previous research results. In case of developed baseball uniform materials, this study used polyurethane mixed fabric for the top to improve flexibility. A mesh material was used at the armpit, back, and bottom of the top, side line of pants and pockets to improve breathability. In addition, quilted material was added to the knee to improve durability and protection. For the patterns and design, this study used a gusset under the arm to assist in comfortable movement as well as reduced the length of the top and circumference of the hem to decrease unnecessary parts. For the pants, this study used a waistband gripper to avoid the top riding up, added darts behind the knees to bend comfortably, and added additional fabric inside the hem to prevent dirt. In addition, we reduced the width and length of the pants. Wearing evaluation was divided into appearance evaluation by experts and on-site-wearing test by baseball players. The wearing evaluation results for the developed baseball uniform indicated higher evaluations than a conventional baseball uniform in all sections as well as showed significant differences in all sections. The result of movement adaptability evaluation showed the highest satisfaction for 'the top does not ride up' and 'dirt do not get in'.
This research developed a smart girdle for adult women in their 20's that has an inserted carbon weaving heater to help with relief from coldness and abdominal disease through the thermal insulation effect. A pocket of powernet fabric was attached to the inside of the girdle for the easy insertion and separation of the heating device, while the heating device was fixed to a mesh material by cotton yarn and was wrapped with elastic lining material to prevent the mechanical devices from being exposed. A set of 3 hooks was attached to the center of the back of the heating device in consideration of convenience and mobility. Whereas the switch was inserted into around the right waistband, and the battery into the inner pocket around the waist, to integrate the heating device with the girdle. The satisfaction and usability of the fabricated smart girdle was verified by having research participants wear it to evaluate the appearance change caused by the device, the inconvenience of wearing/unwearing, mobility, and the satisfactory functionality of the device. As a result, the grand mean was evaluated to be high, with appearance (4.19), mobility (4.17), and functionality (4.51) being higher than 4.00; which indicates that the heat generation function of the smart girdle is effective. It may be said that such collection and analysis of data that reflect users' opinions have value and significance in that they can be grafted onto future research on new technology as well as they contribute to taking a step forward in the rapidly increasing research of smart clothing, with the new-type clothing equipped with new function.
This study aimed to identify professional climbers'demand for movement functionality in pants worn for rock climbing and ice climbing. Data were collected through in-depth interviews with 12 professional climbers using a semi-constructed questionnaire. The respondents were instructor-level experts whose climbing ability ranged from 5.9 to 5.14 on the Yosemite Decimal System rating scale. The research findings were as follows. Experts wore different climbing pants depending on the type of climbing. For example, they mostly wore high-stretch, second layer pants for rock climbing, while layering first layer, second layer, and third layer pants for ice climbing. There were gender differences regarding the parts of the body in which climbers reported the most discomfort when wearing climbing pants; male climbers most commonly responded 'knees', 'inner thighs' and 'hips' while their female counterparts most commonly responded 'inner thighs', 'exposed back and waist' and 'hips' in that order. Differences were found between rock climbing and ice climbing in terms of wear and tear on pants, preferred fabric properties, and length of pants. Wear and tear was found mainly on the hips and knees of rock climbing pants and on the inner lower hem of ice climbing pants. Listed in the order of preference, the most preferred fabric properties were elasticity, light weight, and durability for rock climbing pants and elasticity, insulation, and protection against water and wind for ice climbing pants. Regarding the length of rock climbing pants, respondents preferred ankle-length pants and cropped pants that did not cover the feet. For ice climbing pants, respondents favored heel-length pants that prevented pieces of ice from entering the clothing. Men showed a high level of preference for ergonomically cut climbing pants. Respondents said the waistband on climbing pants should be simplified so as not to adversely affect climbing maneuvers.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.16
no.4
/
pp.99-116
/
2014
The purpose of this study was to examine the state of scrub wearing among scrub uniforms medical staff. The results of the research is the following. First, As for the state of scrub uniforms, they wore scrubs only while they gave medical treatment and took care of routine work. Regarding the design of their current scrubs, type 1 was dominant, and the most common color was dark sky blue. Second, Concerning considerations for scrub design, they answered that scrubs should be designed to give no inconvenience during job performance. As for the image, they placed the most importance in a clean image due to hygiene. In relation to preference for color, pattern and materials, they had the most preference for dark blue, no pattern and materials that would not easily be contaminated. Third, As to preference for the length of the top, they were most fond of hip length, and short sleeves were their favorite length of sleeve. Concerning the design of the front and the back of the top, they had a liking for a box style with no straight cutting line. As for the design of the neckline, hem and pocket of the top, they had the most preference for round neckline, square bottom and round patch pocket respectively. Fourth, when the design preference of the respondents was analyzed, there were a difference between the men and the women in preference for neckline design. The women had a liking for round neck, whereas the men were fond of V neck. And the women showed a higher preference for rubber waistband than the men for the waist design of the pants. No gender differences were found in preference for color, pattern and the length of the top.
Interest in traditional culture has been increasing due to globalization. We need to create fashion items using Korea folk culture like the Hanbok. In this paper, the design development of toddler's pajamas was attempted by using women's Sokgot pants, which were worn by women in Joseon Dynasty period. The study involved a review of literature and an investigation of past relics. Traditional women's Sokgot pants had a 'mu' or 'dang' in the crotch which is called 'the mit' now. The opening of the mit will be used for designing toddler's pajamas. Design suggestions for four styles of toddler's pajamas, which reflect the formative characteristic of women's Sokgot pants, have been created. Research outcomes are as follow: the characteristics of Ran-pants are applied to design 1 and design 2. There have pleats along the waistband of the toddler's pajamas, making the Mu more hidden. Pleats of the waist part are achieved by using an elastic, which also makes the pajamas easier to fit and to wear. The characteristics of Gaedanggo, of which the crotch is opened, are applied to design 3 and design 4. The opened crotch is applied so that toddlers can relieve themselves easily while they are wearing these pajamas. There is also an opening in the centerline of the front Mu in design 4 which gives additional functionality and comfort. This work shows that items of traditional folk dress can be used to make present fashion items.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.15
no.4
s.40
/
pp.393-403
/
1991
The purpose of this study were to explain the difference in body dimensions and body shape between the early in the twenties and the late in the twenties and to get information clothing construction. Subject were 483 Korean males, which were extracted from men's physique investigation on June to August in 1989, consisted of 149 aged $19\~24$ and $25\~29$. T-test and factor analysis were applied to 52 measurement items and 58 indices. The Result of the study were as follow; 1. As regards $19\~24$ aged group, they were taller their waistband level was higher than the late in the twenties. Upper arm and thigh were thick in comparison with trunk. As the difference between shoulder and waist in dimension was great, they showed reverse triangular silhouette. As regard $25\~29$ aged group, their body from variation between individual was greater than that of 19~24 aged group and they were obese on mainly waist and abdominal parts. For that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip looked slim relatively that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip look slim relatively to bust and waist parts. 2. Between $19\~24$ aged and $25\~29$ aged groups, as each had charicteristic body from, there was the difference in factor structure. 3. The change of men's body from with age in their twenties was obeseness on the whole body but the increasing rate of upper arm and thigh girth was less than that of trunk girth.
Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
/
v.23
no.9
/
pp.87-96
/
2018
The purpose of this study was to identify the preferred materials and design characteristics of nursing home clothes in order to collect the basic data necessary for the elderly nursing home clothes. It was to utilize the elderly nursing home clothes considering elderly body shape, hand function, illness. This study was conducted by questionnaire method and SPSS ver. 20.0 program was used. The preference for nursing home clothes material was high for cotton, and it was found that they prefer soft, stretch material, warm feeling material, and lightweight material. In the hygienic aspect, they favored sweat-absorbent materials, and preferred laundry- care-resistant materials with poor wrinkles and dirtiness. The nursing home clothes preferred a two piece form consisting of a round neckline, two pockets on both sides, a waistband of rubber band, long lengths, and a waistline pants. The most important function in the nursing home clothes was recognized as wearing comfort. Aesthetics, symbolism, color and print pattern were recognized as not important functions. Therefore, it is necessary to focus on the functional part such as wearing comfort in the design of the nursing home clothes. The material is also hygienic and comfortable to wear. In the case of the elderly, it is necessary to provide convenience for the wear of clothes through the development of stretchable material and detachment device since the movement range of muscles, arms, and legs is reduced. Based on this study, we will utilize it for the development of nursing home suit considering the characteristics of elderly person in the elderly society. It is to develop functional materials for the elderly in need of nursing home, to develop the pattern considering the elderly body shape, and to develop the desorption device considering the movement of the hand.
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