• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.14 no.3 s.62
• /
• pp.387-403
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new torso pattern for the schoolgirl of a tween generation who had different somatotype from children and teenagers. The subjects in this study were female elementary school students of fifth or sixth grade. Through a sensory evaluation of four existing torso patterns, the first research torso pattern was developed. Drafting methods of each item, which closed to the optimum value three, were selected. The differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified through a Wilcoxon's ranked sum test. The final research torso pattern was developed through adjusting the drafting methods according to the deviation from the optimum value three. The schoolgirl of a tween generation is at the time to show the remarkable breast development compared with a waist circumference, so the bust drafting was defined as B/4+ 1.25cm separately front and back. The drafting of a waist circumference was defined as W/4+1cm separately front and back which taken the ease amounts of the somatotype into consideration of the schoolgirl of a tween generation. A princess line was used instead of a waist dart because their hip circumference was more developed than a waist circumference. The crossed amount of a front hemline was 0.3cm and that of a back hemline was 0.7cm. and the princess line of the position was drawn with a straight line at a right angle of the back waistline. The armhole depth was determined B/4-1cm in consideration of the aesthetic and the trend, although the effective movement of upper arm was required.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.6
• /
• pp.713-721
• /
• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
• /
• v.26 no.4
• /
• pp.49-56
• /
• 2007

Handles on objects are very important to increase the safety and efficiency of manual handling of people who use them. In this study, four different prototype cartons combined with auxiliary handles were designed to determine the optimal handle position of cartons through the evaluation of user preferences. Twenty male students are participated in the experiment. Likert-5 point summated rating method was applied to evaluate the user preferences for provided handles of the carton among upper, middle, and lower position under the four different sizes and materials handling conditions(carrying positions). The results show that the subjects preferred upper part of the handle on the small cartons regardless of the carrying positions while upper and middle parts of the handle on the big cartons for handling above the waist height were preferred. An optimal handle position depending on the different sizes of carton and the different carrying positions were recommended based on the results of evaluation. It is thus recommended that the cartons provide handles on its relevant position depending on the size and materials handling condition to reduce the musculoskeletal stress and in turn to increase the user satisfaction.

• YAKHAK HOEJI
• /
• v.51 no.6
• /
• pp.455-462
• /
• 2007

The participants were recruited 77 healthy adult persons aged between 20 and 50 who have BMI above $25kg/m^2$ in this study. All subjects were randomly assigned to the Gentro $F^{(R)}$ drinking group and non-drinking group. We were investigated about abdomen fat decreasing effect of Gentro $F^{(R)}$, distillate of pepper. Total fat area (TFA), subcutaeneous fat area (SFA) and visceral fat area (VFA) and subcutaneous fat area/visceral fat area ratio (SVR) has been assessed by obesity index (BMI, body fat percent, waist circumference), CT scan taken on the $L4{\sim}5$ position, umbilicus level and blood analysis evaluated during 3 month. The obesity indexes were a little decreased in two groups. However, the waist circumference (WC) was decreased about 5% in drinking group after 3 month and there was significant difference in the change 2 and 3 between two group. TFA and VFA were significantly decreased in the drinking group compare to the non-drinking group (p<0.05) and in umbilicus and $L4{\sim}5$ position, were $370.33{\pm}92.30,\;380.35{\pm}97.64\;and\;114.90{\pm}44.91,\;101.99{\pm}41.24$, respectively. These result means that Gentro $F^{(R)}$ is effective on abdomen fat decreasing. Total cholesterol were decreased without difference in both groups. Lipid factors (TG, HDL- and LDL-cholesterol) were decreased without significance. The mea surement of SVR taken on the $L4{\sim}5$ position were more significantly correlated with obesity index that BMI was 0.787, body fat percentage was 0.754 than on the umbilicus level. The TFA and VSA was correlated with ALP, ASP, Albumin, Insulin and the SVR was correlated with the indexes of liver function and lipid factor found in the blood. Therefore, it is conclude that Gentro $F^{(R)}$ drinking leads to a decrease in abdominal obesity by reducing waist circumference and visceral fat area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.3
• /
• pp.77-92
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.10
• /
• pp.1541-1551
• /
• 2009

This study gives guidelines to pattern designing by supplying various images of the transformed shape of jeans with the location of the waistline and the pants silhouette. For this study, 9 kinds of sample cloths (100% cotton denim) were designed considering the laying measurement of the jeans with the location of the waistline and the pants silhouette. The images of each sample were evaluated after the measurement of the completed samples. Clothing and textiles specialists used a semantic differential scale as the evaluation method of the images. For the statistical analysis of the data, one way Anova and Duncan test were adopted using the SPSS 12.0 program. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The visual image by the location of waistline and the change of the pants silhouette is composed of 3 factors (attraction, fashion and comfort factors) of which the attraction factor is the most important factor. 2. The visual image is positive when the location of the waistline is in the low waist position. It is attractive, fashionable, and comfortable. The visual image is negative when the location of the waistline is in the position of the natural waist. 3. The visual image is attractive when the pants silhouette is a boot-cut and fashionable when the pants silhouette are skinny. The straight-cut is comfortable but the visual image is negative. 4. There is no correlation between visual image by the location of the waistline and the change of the pants silhouette.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
• /
• v.23 no.7
• /
• pp.63-72
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the pants pattern of the lower body of 70-85 aged women. I tried to present excellent pants pattern that is convenient and suitable for the activities of elderly women. Through this, I tried to provide basic data necessary for making elderly women 's pants. As a result of evaluating the appearance of the pants pattern according to the body type, the fit of the type 2 was evaluated as the highest in the item except the position of the front waist line. For the objective evaluation of the 3D simulation, the air gap of the pants by the body part analysis showed that there was not much difference in the air gap around the waist circumference, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and knee circumference by applying the same drawing method and body size. However, in type 2, the air gap of thigh and knee circumference parts was larger than that of type 1 and type 3. Because type 2's legs were thin but it used same size of hemline. It was thought that it is necessary to adjust the space of front and back crotch length to 1 inch (2.54 cm) instead of 1.9 cm (3/4 inch) so that the waistline position of all three types can be set up a little to cover the abdomen. This study was conducted to investigate changes in body shape of elderly women and to develop appropriate pants patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 1980

When we design a dress, we should not only consider the esthetic sense and the relationship between movements of the body and the type of dress, but also the combination between the qualities and proper uses of textiles. recently the sale of ready-made clothes has been booming but I wonder whether they have been made in accordance with research concerning body movements and dresses. I would like to make the following observations on dresses, because I have personally suffered the inconvenience of restricted arm movements when wearing ready-made clothes. I have made four types types of foundations with muslin and Jersey, with these foundations I measured the degree of tension or how much the waist-line was drawn up then the arm was moved in increments of 45 degree angles and there by covering the entire span of vertical and horizontal movements. I have intended to experiment with sleeves of differing height in several ways. Concerning the movement factor, I have determined that with excessive activity vertical movements are twice as uncomfortable as horizontal movements. Concerning the faburic, I have found that because jersey has more elastic qualities than muslin, it has proven to be more responsive to body movements. concerning dresses, I have fund that the higher the height of the sleeves, the more uncomfortable it is to move the arms and the greater the degree to which the waist-line is drawn up. As a result this experiment I have made the following observations. Firstly, the vertical movement of the arms to a 180 degree angle has the most extreme influence on the breadth of movement of the waist-line. Secondly, because jersey permits freer body movements than muslin, it should be the preferred material for use in making sportswear. Thirdly, the formula A·H/4+3 of the sleev's cap height is suitable for making street dresses and formal wear. The formula A·H/5 and A·H/6 are properly used when making working clothes and sportswear, and the formula A·H/8 is proper for a sleeping garment and clothes for patients. Fourthly when deciding to any garments, it is important to consider the amount of arm movement anticipated and the relationship between the material and the degree to which the waistline is drawn up. In nder-blouse, when we raise our arms to the most extreme position, we should at that point still have 20∼25 cm of material remaining under the waist-line which includes the maximum of 14.1cm plus part of the blouse and breath of skirt's belt. In the case of the over blouse it is proper for us to have the length of 17∼20 cm remaining below the waist-line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.8
• /
• pp.27-42
• /
• 2013

The study was aimed to develop men's working pants patterns through the computerized 3-D virtual clothing simulation system and to verify the effects of the 3-D simulated outfit by comparing it to the images of the actual outfits. The average body measurements of South Korean men aged between 30 and 39 used for the simulation in order to generate a 3-D virtual model and to realize outfits of men's working pants for the workers in the heavy industry in South Korea. And also the preliminary questionnaire survey results on certain aspects of the working pants such as type, detailed design preference and discomforting parts were taken into consideration. Both the simulated and real images of the developed working pants were compared in terms of the ease amount according to parts of the working pants, the position of seam lines, the appearance of darts and pleats, and the effects of the fabric surface according to expertise panels' subjective 5-point scale evaluation. The results throughout the study were (1) the basic working pants item worn by subject workers were the straight one pleated pants. The most discomforting parts of the working pants were in the order of body rise, thigh, hip, waist, pants hems and knee girth. (2) the drafting factors of pants patterns differed by the men's body features, which was related to the allocation of suppression amounts between waist and hip girths into darts and hip curve amounts on the waist line level of the pants. (3) the similarity of the virtually simulated and real images of men's working pants resulted in an average of 4.5 to the ease of appearance, 4.6 to the seam lines, 4.1 to the fabric surface effects in a 5-point scale, which means that the two were highly alike.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.20 no.3
• /
• pp.9-18
• /
• 1982

In this study, we attempted to make an original pattern of clothing for an abnormal type of figure, especially for the type of kyphosis. We measured the curvature of the spine of a woman with kyphosis with a Martin measuring instrument and a silhouetter in the following ways. First, we counted the rate of shrinkage of the standard lines drawn on the surface of the body according as the body moved. Secondly, placing the front and back darts, the front and back shoulder darts and the side darts according to“Munhwa”pattern, we made cubic cuttings of four moving postures as well as the standing one. Thirdly, we superposed the developed patterns of the standing and the moving postures, measuring the position change and the amount of the chaange of the darts, and compared them. The results are as follows: 1) In the developed pattern of a cubic cutting of the basic pattern and the standing posture, the neckhole became larger than that of the basic pattern, and the waist line was lowered than that of the basic pattern because the center back line was shortened due to the curved backbone. 2) As for the change of the standard line according to the movement, we found that the waist line, the center front line, the center back line, the bust width line, the upper back width line and the back width line became longer. Special consideration must be given to the function of the clothing for an abnormal type of figure. 3) The difference of the measurements between the cubic cutting and the body measurement regardless of the body movement is due to a gap by an acute angle at the jutted place between the developed pattern and the body surface. We found that the body measurement of the upper back width line, the back width line and the bust line became larger. Consequently, in making an original clothing pattern, it is desirable that we must not place the front and the back waist darts at the jutted place on the back from the functional and the aesthetic viewpoint of clothing. It is also desirable that we must widen the neckhole because the shoulder angle is close to a straight line due to a jut of the upper back width line.