• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.123-134
• /
• 2023

Fashion design, CAD production, and the use of digital software can shorten the time and production processes in the fashion industry, but there are still many limitations in how to similarly express textile textures. Having this awareness, how to implement the visual effects of textile texture similar to that of the real world in the virtual world is one of the major exploration tasks in the fashion industry. Therefore, this study aims to analyze examples of embroidery techniques in Christian Dior collections and explore how embroidery techniques in 3D CLO fashion design can express the texture of real clothes more similarly by creating virtual works through 3D samples and 3D CLO software. First, the analysis criteria and theoretical basis of this study were derived through a literature review on fashion textile embroidery techniques, identifying types and characteristics of embroidery techniques, and classifying them into 12 types. Second, photos of the Dior 2017-2023 SS/FW Ready-to-Wear collections were collected and analyzed through the case analysis VOGUE site. Third, it presents the production of 3D CLO works by deriving a method of implementing embroidery techniques through the design of sample textile embroidery techniques using substances 3D sample software. The study's has some limitations. First, in 3D CLO fashion design, the needle gap for embroidery must be widened to see the thread pattern. Second, by reducing the number of needles, it is necessary to imitate the actual embroidery effect. Third, it is judged that it will be effective to lengthen the thread and adjust the thickness of the thread. Fourth, the thickness of the entire embroidery pattern must be increased to enable a three-dimensional texture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.165-184
• /
• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expanded characteristics that can be found in the fashion designs of JUUN. J. For the study, the concept and discourse related to theme expansion have been theoretically reviewed, and various types of expansive characteristics were derived by reviewing prior research related to the keyword expanded characteristics. Photo data required for the analysis were collected through the official website of JUUN. J and Vogue, a worldwide fashion magazine. The scope of the survey was limited to 983 photographs collected from 28 collections from 2009 S/S through 2022 F/W. The results are as follows. First, the expansion of the human body, which is achieved by adding an empty space between the body and the clothing or using various materials to express the volume of the body, is expressed through two different forms in the designs of JUUN. J. Second, the expansion of time expresses the combination of different timelines, the meeting of the past and present or awe toward the unpredictable future. Third, the expansion of style, which is expressed by reinterpreting existing costumes or styles, is a type of expansion' that appears individually in the fashion designs of JUUN J. Such expansion of style can be found in the military inspired designs. Fourth, the expansion of space, which diversifies our perception of space by re-recognizing the concept of space, was implemented into the works and designs of JUUN. J through the convergence of different cultural aspects. Fifth, the expansion of gender, which is expressed through the continuous exploration of the borders of gender and the delivery of social messages, has appeared in the works of JUUN J. in the form of genderless design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.35
• /
• pp.325-341
• /
• 1997

One of the noticeable trends of female wear in 1990s is the Outwearization of Underwear as it is called 'Lingerie look' This trend meaned 'Exposure Fashion' raised splendidly its head to the whole stage of fashion destrying the tradional concept having divided the fashion between outwear and underwear by Madonna an Americal populer singer showed up in front of the audience wearing the corset-dress as a stage custome. This corset-dress which can not be recognised whether it is underwear or outwear has been diffused into the mass as a fashionable trend re-gardless of any reason; therefore discrimi-nation of wear by space by far that is underwear should have the sstandard telling between private and public sector has been gradually tumbled. By the way what has propelled desigers to introduce the style continuously having the underwear motive such as outwear almost as same as underwear or underwear worn on out-wear etc. and has made it a fashion trends? How do we accept this "Ligerie look'fashion" The rearch on vogue of outwearization of underwear started by the questions above can be summarized as the followings The division between the sprit and the ma-terial-economic shrinkage by the collapse of the bubble economy in the late of 20 century and expectation for the next century doubt by changes of international politics dynamics for the next century and increasement of psycho-logical tention by the environmental destruc-tion etc, has been extended to break the sense of value down These frustration of the tra-ditional values and dissatisfaction on the pres-ent have reflected on the fashion pursuing some more sensational style to increase the ex-posure of the body. The revolution of wearing bouncing the con-servatismhas outwardly expressed underwear of the private sector. Therefore the spatial concept of wear which for the public sec-tor has been fallen into pieces and has broken the wall of the concept fixed by outwear on underwear. in addition the stage costome for the popular people like Madonna has not been limited by the specularity any more and has been assimilated with the normal wear on the street to take the distinction for away. The circumstances of the late of 20 century pursuing sensation and making sex commer-cialized have accordance with the outweari-zation of underwear. there it is on the basis of Minimalist's dogmatism has been expressed the maximization of expoure in the pubric space to popularize bra pants(knickers) as outwear. The reaction on the attribute of hiding and shanding has brought 'See-Through fashion' with the transparent materials, The contemporary doubt recalling the mem-ory of the past has sublimated corset which was an instument of toture for women into Romanticism to introduce it to fashion with the development of a new material not to be a tool of any oppression and maltretment any longer. The popularization of outwear like underwear what's more has brought high quality of underwear. There it has called for the variety of materials such as knit demin and velvet etc, and has urged the famous designers to enlarge their working boundaries to underwear designs, Besides outwearization of underwear has been popular even in the Orient which has the con-servative opinions on exposure ; so changes of the thoughts can be seen among the establish-ment generation on exposure of the body. As the more high tech information publi-cized and the more technology and media digitalized the more expression being analog the pursue for the new in fashion with vision never been seen and even though it is imprac-tical the experimental designers have drived the freedom beyond the traditional roles of the previous century. Consequently outwearization of underwear may be viewd as a trial as an expression responded the contemporary background. This trend in my opinion will have been lasted for a while by being proliperlated among lasted for a while by being proliperlated among the pub-lic who has the century-end anxiety and doubt and expectation for the next century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.283-295
• /
• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.116-134
• /
• 2003

The beauty industry of today tends to gradually develope as one of the important marketing strategies along with the total fashion sector. Hair color, being one of the factors of hair style, especially builds his or her own image and even becomes the nonverbal communication method which let others know him/herself. Therefore, women's needs and expectations of hair coloring are varied. To meet these need, it is urgent to figure out, most of all, the status of customers' awareness about hair coloring. Thus, in this study, research and analysis on hair coloring were made, focusing on the women utilizing 20 beauty shops in Changwon city. And the goal that this study set is to use as the study material for the hair coloring consulting in the beauty industry and the basic data for marketing in the industry job-sites. The conclusion by the three factors(age, job, monthly income) were as follows: 1. Dandyism was on the 1st order in the reason for coloring hair regardless of age, job, and monthly income. This seems to be speaking for the change of women's awareness of coloring hair. 2. The subject of making decision upon whether she was going to color her hair or not was herself regardless of age, job, and monthly income. Among the people belong to these three factors, brown was the color in overall preference. 3. More than half of those who belong to the three factors were not aware of the hair color, but their senses and interest in the color in vogue were high. 4. In terms of the hair coloring periodic time, many people had $2{\sim}3$months, but it was possible to know that they were interested in improving their images, considering the fact that most of the salaried people had their hair dyed within a month and the people in service job over a month. 5. The acquaintance around me had the strongest effect in collecting information from the people in those three factors and mass media was the next. The results of this study, in my opinion, would help the customers have beautiful and healthy hair and make images of their own by making the hair designers develope professional knowledges and skills on the hair coloring and improve the quality of beauty services.

• Journal of Preventive Medicine and Public Health
• /
• v.49 no.5
• /
• pp.275-287
• /
• 2016

Objectives: C-reactive protein (CRP), an inflammatory biomarker, has been widely used as a preclinical marker predictive of morbidity and mortality. Although many studies have reported a positive association between CRP and mortality, uncertainty still remains about this association in various populations, especially in rural Korea. Methods: A total of 23 233 middle-aged participants (8862 men and 14 371 women) who were free from cardiovascular disease, cancer, and acute inflammation (defined by a CRP level ${\geq}10mg/L$) were drawn from 11 rural communities in Korea between 2005 and 2011. Blood CRP concentration was analyzed as a categorical variable (low: 0.0-0.9 mg/L; intermediate: 1.0-3.0 mg/L; high: 3.1-9.9 mg/L) as well as a continuous variable. Each participant's vital status through December 2013 was confirmed by death statistics from the National Statistical Office. Cox proportional hazard models were used to assess the independent association between CRP and mortality after adjusting for other risk factors. Results: The total quantity of observed person-years was 57 975 for men and 95 146 for women, and the number of deaths was 649 among men and 367 among women. Compared to the low-CRP group, the adjusted hazard ratio for all-cause mortality of the intermediate group was 1.17 (95% confidence interval [CI], 0.98 to 1.40) for men and 1.27 (95% CI, 1.01 to 1.61) for women, and the corresponding values for the high-CRP group were 1.98 (95% CI, 1.61 to 2.42) for men and 1.41 (95% CI, 1.03 to 1.95) for women. Similar trends were found for CRP evaluated as a continuous variable and for cardiovascular mortality. Conclusions: Higher CRP concentrations were associated with higher mortality in a rural Korean population, and this association was more prominent in men than in women.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute Of Construction Engineering and Management
• /
• autumn
• /
• pp.300-305
• /
• 2002

The construction project is a complex undertaking involving multiple participants. Conflicts are inherently natural in the construction projects and subsequently, a success of projects mainly depends on how well to cope with the conflicts. In the past, courts usually took the position that the professional's exposure in damages for negligent performance of any of his/her duties would not extend to strangers to the contractual arrangement. However, courts today generally reject that rationale which was earlier in vogue and protect architects, engineers, and contractors from being liable to third parties. It means that the lack of privity of contract could rarely protect a profession in a suit alleging the negligence or professional malpractice in preparing plans or specifications. The main goal of this paper is to enhance the understanding of the legal aspect of privity and to provide the trend of no-privity disputes through the analysis of lawsuit cases during the last 40 years. On the base of the analysis, importance of the third relationship and the liability in construction disputes is presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.28
• /
• pp.65-84
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.

• Asian review of World Histories
• /
• v.2 no.2
• /
• pp.169-195
• /
• 2014

This paper presents an investigation into cross-cultural transfiguration of Buddhist faith in Goryeo Dynasty, with a focus on $\acute{S}\bar{u}$raṃgama-s$\bar{u}$tra that used to be in vogue in East Asia. There are three major types of $\acute{S}\bar{u}$raṃgama-s$\bar{u}$tra faith in Goryeo: the first one was concerned about the scripture itself including its citation and publication and the compilation of its annotation books; the second one involved establishing Buddhist rituals related to the scripture; and the final one was to create Dh$\bar{a}$ran$\bar{i}$ stone poles with Dafoding Dh$\bar{a}$ran$\bar{i}$ in Volume 7 of the scripture engraved in stone. While it was the common practice to engrave Zunsheng Dh$\bar{a}$ran$\bar{i}$ in China, the number of stone poles on which Dafoding Dh$\bar{a}$ran$\bar{i}$ was engraved was overwhelmingly large. There are a couple of reasons behind the difference: first, there was a tendency of Zunsheng Dh$\bar{a}$ran$\bar{i}$ being worshiped at the national level in Goryeo, which probably explains why the percentage of Zunsheng Dh$\bar{a}$ran$\bar{i}$ stone poles designed to pray for a personal mass for the dead by engraving Dh$\bar{a}$ran$\bar{i}$ on a stone pole was considerably low. In addition, there were esoteric sects in Goryeo, and it is estimated that they must have got involved in the establishment of Dafoding Dh$\bar{a}$ran$\bar{i}$ stone poles in the former half of Goryeo. Furthermore, the Zen sects had a deep non-Zen understanding of Esoteric Buddhism and tended to practice Dh$\bar{a}$ran$\bar{i}$ in Goryeo. It is estimated that Dafoding Dh$\bar{a}$ran$\bar{i}$ stone poles were set up in large numbers in Goryeo as the prevalence of $\acute{S}\bar{u}$raṃgama-s$\bar{u}$tra faith that continued on since the former half of Goryeo was combined with the Zen sects' active position about Dh$\bar{a}$ran$\bar{i}$.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
• /
• s.34
• /
• pp.197-217
• /
• 2014

The 1920s and 1930s ushered in "the golden age" of Chinese comics when the comics flourished. Satirical cartoons in modern Chinese comics were popular due to emotional instability and war caused by foreign powers. Among many popular comics, this paper analyzes in the 1920s and in the 1930s which were made into films and dramas. Chapter Two shows that China in the Republican era of China expanded its consumer culture into some sectors like films, novels, magazines and fashion in the 1920s and 1930s. However, more than any other things, this chapter considers from the historical perspective "the golden age" of comics including comic magazine in the 1930s and a history of comic magazines that gained popularity with conventional and common story. Chapter Three explains that social satire cartoons were in vogue since the May Fourth Movement and anti-imperialistic and semi-feudalistic stories in the 1920s were realized in life. It also says that comics that describes the negative sides of its society were popular. Ye QianYu, a cartoonist, portrayed many facets of Shanghai through : the daily life of the middle and lower classes, bureaucratic corruption and sympathy for the working class. drawn by Zhang LePing describes the unfair social system between the bourgeoisie and the proletariat and the gap between the rich and poor through the main character, the powerless and poor orphan. and lampooned the reality of its time in an objective, witty and humorous way in terms of ethics and economy respectively. The researcher chooses to study and which are very familiar to us, because good cartoons, animations and movies stimulate the feelings about our surroundings.