• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.552-563
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• 2019

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.48-64
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• 2019

With evolution in the production environment of the textile industry, the need for non-water-based dyeing technologies and eco-friendly process facilities in the dyeing and processing stages has increased. In recent years, supercritical fluid dyes have been developed and commercialized in Europe, centering on this demand. However, so far, such dyes have been mainly applied in the processing of PET fibers. Basic research has mainly involved investigation of dyeing by supercritical carbon dioxide or solubility of such dyes, and more in-depth research should be continuously carried out. In this review, we describe the types and characteristics of supercritical fluids that exhibit specific properties at pressures and temperatures over the critical point. In addition, the state of the art in the dyeing and processing technology using supercritical fluids and associated, processing problems, environmental regulation, and wastewater treatment issues are described in detail. We hope this review can contribute to the supercritical fluid technology being further developed as an environment friendly dyeing processing method. Furthermore, we expect that the technique can be used as a means of ensuring different, high-quality dyed products.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.57 no.2
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• pp.159-170
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• 2019

The growth accelerator period from a child's body into an adult body is a huge transition characterized by rapid growth in the near term. Body shape changes at this time of growth should be continually studied because they can result in different outcomes due to various variables. This study is basic study for the production of a junior brassiere patternmaking was conducted to separate the upper torso and breasts of adolescents by growth level. Analysis was conducted by age classification according to sales trends. In this study. 3D body shape data of Korean girls, Based on the 6th Size Korea data, analyzed statistically the upper body and breast according to the rate of growth. The results of this study represent the basis for the development of a junior brassiere to help lead a better life in regards to clothing. The study used 3D-data from girls aged 13 to 18. The analysis indicates that the upper body is in a different shape at age 15 with an increasing circumference, width and shoulder length of the chest; in addition, the sides are analyzed differently, suggesting that the brassiere configuration should be made differently at age 15. The breast form also showed different growth patterns at age 13 and the result was that the shape of the cup in brassiere should be configured differently depending on type.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.72-78
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• 2021

The purpose of this study, the purpose of this study is to activate the antibacterial effect on the Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride film by using Octadecyldimethyl (3-triethoxy silylpropyl) ammonium chloride antibacterial agent with Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride polymer, which is inexpensive and has excellent properties such as heat resistance and chemical resistance. The Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride polymer was dissolved in a dimethylacetamide solvent, and film samples were prepared by varying the ratio of Octadecyldimethyl (3-triethoxy silylpropyl) ammonium chloride to study the antibacterial performance. A Scanning Electron Microscope-Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectrometer and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy were employed to confirm the elements in the samples. According to the initial decomposition temperature of the Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride film and the Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride/Octadecyldimet hyl (3-triethoxy silylpropyl) ammonium chloride(10%) film using a Thermogravimetric analyzer(TA-DTA), it was confirmed that the initial decomposition temperature was lowered due to the influence of Octadecyldimethyl (3-triethoxy silylpropyl) ammonium chloride. In addition, in order to measure the mechanical properties, Universal testing machine was used and the result showed that a strength of Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride/Octadecyldimethyl (3-triethoxy silylpropyl) ammonium chloride(10%) was 36.8 MPa. The antimicrobial properties of the Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride/Octadecyldimethyl (3-triethoxy silylpropyl) ammonium chloride(10%) film showed 99.9% antimicrobial properties.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.87-102
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to consider effective digital marketing strategies through analysis of luxury fashion brands. This study conducted both quantitative analysis and case studies of the brands Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Burberry, and Chanel. To measure the brand image of the luxury fashion brands, the survey was distributed to Millennials, and total of 277 responses were used for the final analysis by using SPSS 25.0 statistical program. Other than survey, this paper analyzed digital marketing strategies of luxury fashion brands through brand-related papers, website and social media of each brand, Samsung Designnet's database, and news posted on search engines. The results of this study are as follows: First, according to the result of examining brand image of luxury fashion brands, there was no significant difference between brands, except Gucci. Second, this study analyzed each luxury fashion brand to understand the characteristics of digital marketing, and common characteristics were identified. Third, by analyzing the brand image and digital marketing strategies of luxury fashion brands, it was confirmed that Gucci's brand image and digital marketing strategies were consistent, while there was a difference between Burberry's brand image and digital marketing strategy. Therefore, this article proposes the following digital marketing strategies that are suitable for luxury fashion brands. First, is the connection of on/offline channels. Second, is the use of AI technology. Third, is a blockchain-based platform.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.133-146
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• 2021

It is important to conduct an anthropometric study to develop garment patterns to accommodate the changes found in the body size and type of men in their 30s, to effectively address fit dissatisfaction. Thus, this study aims to explore changes in the lower body sizes and body types of men in their 30s, and provide basic measurements for designing pants patterns. For this purpose, key anthropometric dimensions for the lower body of men in their 30s, which were acquired by the 6th (2010) and 7th (2015) survey conducted by Size Korea, were analyzed using SPSS 24.0 for Windows. Independent sample t-tests were conducted on major lower body sizes to track changes over time. Factor and cluster analyses were used to classify lower body types. From the comparison of the 6th (2010) and 7th (2015) surveys, it was found that the overall lower body size of men in their 30s were increasing in the height-related aspects, circumference, thickness, and width-as well as body weight and BMI. The five factors were derived to determine the typical lower body types of men in their 30s and the body types were classified into three categories through cluster analysis: (1) those with the largest body size, body volume, and obesity, (2) those with smallest body size, lower body volume, and obesity degree, visually the most skinny type, (3) those with BMI and weight that are the smallest, like Type 2, but the main circumference of the lower body is lower. In order to visually look at the statistical analysis, results were presented by producing a avatar based on the main lower body values.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.716-726
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• 2020

This study presents methods and alternative examples for fashion brands to effectively use video-based communication channels to form brand identity that analyzes the definition, status and type of YouTube channel fashion films as well as enables the ability to derive brand identity characteristics. Literature studies focused on Christian Dior's official website and related previous studies. The temporal range of the case studies was from October 7, 2010, the date when the first fashion film was uploaded to current Christian Dior YouTube to July 17, 2020 (the survey date), and there are a total of 550 subjects for quantitative analysis. The succession of the couture spirit means that Christian Dior's craftsmanship was created and passed down by Musée Christian Dior to act as a contemporary key element of brand identity. The iconic expression of femininity is Dior's core design philosophy that began when the woman image of a new era was presented through a new look, and Dior's femininity means a woman that reflects the character of the times as is interpreted as her own personality from the perspective of modernism through the creative directors of future generations. The brand's core identity code 'Miss Dior' expresses the brand's vision and eternity through perfume as well as targets Z generation male consumers through an emotional approach based on forms that used emotional images such as movie-type films.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.240-251
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to establish the relationship between wedding companies and wedding planners and understand the influence of relationship factors on the relationship performance and relationship continuation intention of wedding companies. We conducted an online survey from June to July 2017, and collected 201 responses which were used during analysis. Statistical analysis, including technical statistical analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, and regression analysis, was undertaken using SPSS 23. This study shows that among the relationship factors affecting the wedding planner and the wedding company, the computational tie-up has a significant impact on both the financial and non-financial performance of the wedding company, while emotional tie-ups have a significant impact on the non-financial performance of the wedding company, but not on financial performance. As for the effects of relationship commitment to wedding planners on wedding shops' relationship continuation intention, each factor for relationship commitment significantly affected wedding shops' relationship continuation intention. Regarding the effects of wedding shops' relational performance on relationship continuation intention, each factor of performance significantly affected relationship continuation intention. Therefore, wedding companies should make continuous efforts to maintain this relationship and recognize the need for robust relationships with wedding planners as a sure and important competitive tool for attracting customer and generating revenue.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.37-60
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• 2021

Before the tenth century, the dress of elite women in and around China often reflected "Han" Chinese fashions and preferences. In funerary paintings and relief sculptures of Sogdian and Xianbei couples from the sixth century, for example, women wear "Han" Chinese-style clothing. Even in the Tang dynasty (ca. 618-907), when exchange with Central Asia via overland Silk Road trade impacted the styles and patterning of elite dress and men incorporated clear Central Asian attributes into their dress, elite women in the Tang sphere wore recognizably Tang fashions. Chinese-style dress in these centuries clearly conveyed cultural import and, likely, political power, especially after the founding of the Tang dynasty. However, the straightforward borrowing of Tang women's dress shifted in the Khitan Liao dynasty (ca. 907-1125). The Liao, in contrast to other states that shared a border with China in previous centuries, saw themselves as political equals to the Song dynasty (ca. 960-1278) court in the south. The Liao court was interested in Song customs and culture and incorporated artistic motifs and practices from the Song court. However, the Liao courtly idiom was never fully subsumed into the greater world of the Song - rather, the Liao used facets of Song courtly culture for their own ends. One way this is manifested is through the dual administrative system, a bureaucratic organization that, among other things, regulated and distinguished between who was permitted to wear Khitan and non-Khitan dress. In this paper, I will examine the material evidence from funerary contexts for how the dress of elite Liao women both engaged with the dress of the Song, while also maintaining a certain amount of cultural autonomy. Through their dress, elite Liao women signaled clear messages about their status, identity, and difference to their Song counterparts.