• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.8
• /
• pp.1153-1164
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to knitted nine kinds of single knit and examined mechanical properties and hand to provide the fact that knit, tuck and miss stitch applied to various structure have an effect on hand of weft knitted fabrics. It was good to use tuck stitch rather than miss stitch to increase elasticity of knitted fabrics. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were double or triple overlaps, tensile resilence(RT) decreased by increase of friction contacted among stitch. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were knitted double or triple, bending rigidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB) and shearing(G) properties increased by jamming of stitch. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were overlap, thickness increased and they became thicker than miss stitch. Also, as they became thicker by these tuck stitch and miss stitch, compressional energy(WC) increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction(MIU) of cross tuck stitch was larger than coefficient of cross miss stitch. Mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) had a tendency to be larger as tuck stitch and miss stitch increased. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were overlaps double or triple, KOSHI and FUKURAMI increased, total hand value(TIV) and NUMERI appeared high in double cross tuck stitch and double cross miss stitch.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.334-345
• /
• 2011

A study on compressive garments guarantee the required pressure and form depending on the type of disease and the state of injury can be used in the preventive treatment of cardiovascular disease. This research is to provide a preliminary data to develop medical clothing products, especially knitted compression garments. Starting from analyzing knitted structure of imported pressure goods to apply to test samples, 11 kinds of knitted stretchy fabrics were manufactured under the various knitting conditions, then their tensile, mechanical and hand properties were measured. In comparison size changes by knitting structure, tuck stitch applied structure showed an increase in course direction and decrease in wale direction. Float stitch applied structure indicated the contraction of size in width because of unformed loops and floated yarn on the technical back of fabric. As a result of tensile properties in tuck and float applied structure, tensile strength was increased in the course direction. On the other hand, the more loops overlapped due to the tuck and float stitch, the more decreased their elongation and elastic recovery were. In case of mechanical properties, as the tuck and float stitch were overlapped double or triple the bending and shearing properties were risen. Accordingly, the drape of fabric becomes stiff, and its surface becomes rough and uneven. The measurements of hand properties showed that the value of KOSHI, FUKURAMI NUMERI in tuck and float applied structure are higher than the plain structure. This results from the relationship between the mechanical and hand properties.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.111-121
• /
• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.6 s.154
• /
• pp.870-879
• /
• 2006

In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.17-26
• /
• 2019

This research aims to obtain useful data on the development of compression garment products with high-stretch knitted materials. Using nylon SCY, four specimens were knitted. Then, appearance (width, length, weight, thickness), stretch property (stretch, recovery) and clothing pressure were measured and their interrelation was analyzed. In the comparison of appearance features, yarn floating caused shrinkage in both course and wale directions of the specimens. Yarn overlapping by tucking caused a release in the course direction and shrinkage in the wale direction. Also, structural change was affected by the weight and thickness change of the knitted fabric. In the analysis of fabric stretch, yarn floating reduced the extension in course direction and increased that in wale direction of the knitted fabric. However, yarn overlapping reduced the elongation in both directions. In the analysis of recovery, yarn floating and overlapping raised fabric recovery in both directions, and tuck structure was superior to float in recovery. In the analysis of clothing pressure, 'Plain-Float' structured fabrics showed a higher clothing pressure than 'Plain' and the clothing pressure value of 'Plain-Tuck' was lower than that of 'Plain'. As for the correlation between fabric appearance, stretch property, and clothing pressure, the appearance change in course direction had a major influence on the clothing pressure. The shrinkage of appearance led to a decrease in stretch and an increase in clothing pressure.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the structural properties of 100% wool fabrics knitted with various stitch types and to evaluate dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying. Materials were weft-knitted from twenty-four different stitches with 7 gauge using a computerized flatbed knitting machine. Weight, thickness, density, and length were measured. A domestic washing machine and a tumble dryer were used for the shrinkage test. The results are as follows: Knitted fabrics were divided into 3 groups based on weight per unit area. Porous knits show light weight whilst milano, pintuck, rib stitches belong to the heaviest group. A positive correlation between weight and thickness was found and the same result was obtained for wale density and weight. Dimensional shrinkage of knitted fabrics was increased during repetitive wet cleaning and drying regardless of knit stitches. Especially, fabrics knitted with float, tuck, cable, and links & links stitches samples were contracted more than 15% in the first treatment whereas 2x1 rib stitch showed 1% shrinkage rate. Fisherman and milano stitches contracted in both course and wale direction with similar shrinkage rates. However, porous knits with float and tuck stitches shrank in course direction by 20% as well as cable samples contracted from 5% to 20% after repeated washing and drying. On the other hand, 30% and 15% contraction of wale direction occurred in orderly float and links & links stitches, respectively. Machine dried knits have a higher shrinkage rate than air-dried knits, but the drying method did not affect to the direction of contraction. In conclusion, variations of knit, tuck, and float stitches affect knit construction and dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying of wool knitted fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.149-163
• /
• 2011

Hanjisa(Korean paper yarn), a new material made from the traditional Korean paper, has been developed through local R&D efforts, reflecting the current trend highly valuing environmental friendly. This new material is considered suitable for the 21C lifestyle and culture pursuing improved quality of human life and the environment. Therefore, this study aims to widely make known the originality and functions of the environmentally friendly Korean paper yarn, as well as to increase its commercial value. Furthermore, a new category of apparel design is presented by studying painting dyeing based on transformational tuck techniques and wax resist dyeing with formative features of repeated lines and rhythms of shells in order to implement three-dimensional and decorative artistic expressions. The texture of the Korean cotton paper yarn was particularly suitable to employ tuck and dyeing techniques Which express formative features of shell. Also, the material was useful for expressing the three-dimensional feelings with repeated curves and cross sections of shells. Moreover, paraffin resist dyeing and stitch techniques were used in order to avoid monotony and the images of shells visually materialized. Through the results stated above, this study could explore how to overcome obstacles to globalization of the Korean modern apparel such as its uniqueness, limit of materials or absense of internationality by applying modern design to the Korean paper fabrics. In the future, it is expected that more manufactures could produce and supply the new materials so as to make widely known the originality of the Korean paper fabrics and develop the material into a popular organic product fitting the modern lifestyle.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.3
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop Blue-Jean Design for Ideal Body Shape. The final aim of Fashion design is looks beauty of people by optical illusion. This study is based on Gestalt therapy and, is blue jeans design using optical illusion of vertical line for ideal beauty body image. Optical illusion for blue-jean design effect to achieve the ideal body shape. We can accumulate the preceding study for modern clothing from design and the related optical illusion effects. Vertical line stitches have all the advantages especially in pants design. I design blue jeans using optical illusion theory. The results of this study are as follows: First, Vertical line helps that jean has the long body shape effectively. Second, Jeans which have two or more vertical lines is more effective than simple Jean in order to make slim body shape. Third, Appropriate position of horizontal lines can be effective to make long body shape. Fourth, Top stitch, pin-tuck and pleats can be applied to vertical or horizontal lines instead of cutting lines.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.151-162
• /
• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.