• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권4호
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• pp.400-411
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• 2012

This study analyzes the formative changes and trends of cape design in modern fashion. In this study, a total of 496 cape designs were collected through the four major fashion collections of Paris, Milan, New York, and London from 2006S/S to 2010F/W, and a literature overview on capes was performed. The results of this study show that the cases with collars and hoods attached outnumbered the non-collared designs. In addition, the cases of lengthy cape in the hip or knee line represent more portions in designs. As to the material, it indicated that generic cloth was used the most. In most cases, decorations with various details and trimmings were also used. For expression characteristics, cases only with unique texture to cloth material and formative beauty were the most remarkable without decoration. For the formative feature, the independent item style was found the most, even though it was worn together with other kinds of clothing. Integration with other types also appeared such as cape jacket, cape dress, cape one-piece, or cape coat. Cape design features in contemporary fashion and could be characterized as feministic elegancy, harmony of practical value and fashion, authoritativeness, and decorativeness from the design trend analysis.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.595-602
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• 2007

This study examined the aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style which is being considered as the representative classic of Western fashion and the transformations of those Grecian styles on the fashion of the twentieth century. This study used positive research method using literatures on art history and clothing history, fashion related publications, and magazines and websites to understand the trend of fashion designer's collections. The study results are as follows. The aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style was considered to be the ideal beauty combined with symmetry, the functional beauty combined with non-construction, and the sensual beauty combined with natural body. The ideal beauty combined with symmetry appears as a style that shows idealistic proportion of a body emphasizing high-waist based on the golden ratio and the body as a whole rather than details. The functional beauty combined with non-construction appears as perfect recreation a body in its original and natural form. The clothing takes a form that does not have any structural design and has simplified cutting and sewing. It uses pins and strings to fix up the form of clothing which is flexible and naturally draped. The sensual beauty combined with natural body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism in neoclassic period. Throughout the twentieth century, the desire for Grecian style was conveyed by a single detail or through an array of allusive effects.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.95-108
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the historical change of Paris Collection in relation to the social and cultural environment. Together with the various changes in society, creates fashion, the historical background of the Paris Collections is analyzed from the end of the 19th century until the present. The research method includes analysis entered on data from literature and magazines. From this study, the following conclusions can be reached. 1. Paris Collection is composed of various situations such as the economic aspect, the changing society, the change of the costumes, the change of consumer's consciousness, etc,. 2. The position and role of Paris Collection will be changed in the future. But, there is no alternative. Paris Collection is the best system which we need in our society. 3. Since the level of the planning of the apparel industry becoming raised rapidly, Paris collection tend to avoid the traditional aspect. 4. In order to make good product, good understanding of the historical background need. It must be considered to understand changes such as consumers lifestyles, social trend, etc.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1063-1071
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• 2006

Fetishism, which has been a taboo for a long time, is stimulating the modem people's emotions by being reborn as a fashion trend by a number of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Claud Montana. Especially, Jean Paul Gaultier, called the bad boy of the fashion industry, is leading the Paris fashion world by expressing his unique fetish elements with his fantastic and uncommon ideas-males' wearing of skirts, wearing underwear like outer garments. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating how his fetishism is shown in his works, understanding his fetish fashion world in the modem fashion and offering a new stepping-stone for fashion designers to actively participate in new fashion areas. Its results are as follows. First, it was found that the sensual designer Jean Paul Gaultier has been expressing his unique fetish elements in his collections like the following three styles of fetishism-fetishism by physical emphases, fetishism by items, fetishism by material. Second, the symbols of voluptuous beauty reflecting his own fetishism could be found in his movie costumes, license areas and given plots. Third, the work describing Jean Paul Gaultier's fetishism as a fetish image with the concept of Fantasy of Missing was evaluated as a successful work to express an internal sexual desire.

• 한국농촌건축학회논문집
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.21-30
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• 2005

It is not entirely new tendency now that museum have to become 'participation and working activity style' in 21st century. A lot of museums are changed fast to that visitors participate and work actively in museum program recently in Korea. Cheongju city is building various museums which have interesting themes contributed precious inheritances and collections belong to citizens. And Cheongju city is pushing ahead long-term target which is Ecomuseum City Cheongju with citizen is progressing for cultural city continuously. Also to become public museums and facilities which visitors want to come again, Cheongju city is trying to secure various experience space and facilities to keep in step in trend that visitors take part in and work actively in museum program. In an area, there are various cultural, historical, natural and industrial heritages that express relation of human and environment. In meaning that do function of antenna of sending culture which understanding, studying, informing these regional inheritances and promoting activity, in Ecomuseum, those are called "satellite" included not only regional preserved inheritances but also various theme museums which have mutual cooperative function. Satellite(or antenna) is very important element composing Ecomuseum. So I want to provide that is "Exhibition Working-Activity Satellite" that are places having experience space or facilities which visitors can work actively there like that. Such study for Ecomuseum and Exhibition Working-Activity Satellite can be promoted Ecomuseum City which is city for learning lifetime with citizens.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.119-135
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to examine formative aesthetic characteristics and aesthetical value of the intraculturalism expressed in contemporary fashion and to confirm the functions of intraculturalism to establish, visualize, perform the racially indeterminate, ethnically neutral, culturally diverse or ambiguous identity. For this study, the applications of the intraculturalism shown in mass media and consumer culture, such as music, fashion advertisements and collections of high fashion designers from 2004 to 2008 have been analyzed and compared. The results were as follows: The Intraculturalism is reflected in the muticultural music such as Afropean, Jawaiian, Reggaeton and Asian Hip Hop. Intracultural music genres create the hybrid music and fashion culture through mixing, matching and blending one and another culture. Advertisement campaigns for Louis Vuitton, YSL Beauty, Gap and H&M stores have all purposely highlighted models with mixed racial heritage. It is reflected in the latest youth fashion market trend using face that are ethnically ambiguous. The increasingly multiracial, multicultural population is due to intermarriage and waves of immigration. The rising mixed race designers, Narciso Rodriguez, Hussein Chalayan, Vera Wang and DooRi Chung, not only compromise and amalgamate different cultural elements of their heritage and contemporary life but also create new look and fashion image. The characteristics of intraculturalism expressed in the 21st century fashion could categorized into de-genre, de-nationality, de-race and de-culture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.583-597
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to classify and analyze the deconstruction phenomena expressed in contemporary knit fashion design, and to analyze the inner meaning of deconstruction based on certain characteristics. As a method of study, literature data for theoretical backgrounds, prior studies, and internet data were analyzed. The scope of this study was restricted to knitwear published in the world's four major collections (Milan, Paris, New York and London) from 2014 F/W to 2018 S/S. Based on prior studies, four concepts of deconstruction were derived: "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$", "Intertextuality", "Intermeaning of Meaning", "Dis De Phenomenon". The results of the study were as follows: first, "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$" refers to a transcendence of time and space. These expressions are discursive, unrealistic, and convey freedom through intent that deviates from rules and norms. Second, "Intertextuality" indicates a mixture of different texts, such as styles, materials, and items. These expressions deliver novelty with amusement, and can be entertaining depending on audience expectations. Third, "Intermeaning of Meaning" is accidental category - depending on how the wearer wears the clothing. -; accordingly, free and spontaneous creativity is an emerging trend in fashion. Fourth, the clothing was expressed in deformed and distorted form by the construction and destruction of the structure, a technique we describe as the "Dis De Phenomenon". In this concept, the sense of free design of young emotion appears along with the sense of purity and shock due to intentional inconsistency.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권11호
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• pp.11-20
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is : first, to examine factors of fashion show planning and production and to classify types of fashion show planning and production: second, to compare and analyze the factors through a case analysis to defined their differences. For the purpose, data are collected to compare and analyze from literature as well as the interview with fashion show planning and production companies in Korea. The result shows that all the factors are considered on a practical level except security and publicity among 15 factors presented in literature : the purpose of the show, target spectators, product selection, product prices, type of show, size, location, models, time of show, duration, theme, security, budget, and publicity. Show types are divided into national brands, designer brands, imported brands, and collections. The result of the comparison and analysis of the factors of the planning and production by type shows that factors vary greatly depending on the purpose of the show, target spectators, and form of the show and products. By analyzing the case study on fashion show planning and production on a practical level, the study recognizing the need of specialized development of fashion show planning in Korea's fashion industry, is a basic process of theory systematization for the planning and production in its marketing aspects, and will provide relevant theories in such aspects for those who want to enter into the field.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.688-701
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• 2014

This study examined the expression characteristics in pop art works of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. The study here aimed at possibility to find a design development in building up the unique art world of creativity based on popularity, artistry, and originality without confinement to the trend only. For the research method, review of literature and analysis about Castelbajac's works reflecting the pop art feature in the collections from 2000S/S to 2012F/W were performed. The results of research are as follows. The external expression form of Castelbajac's works based on pop art was grouped roughly into use of mass culture image, appropriation of pop art expression technique, and parody of art works. First, his work appeared as application of the mass culture image such as symbolic thing in the modern consumer society, object in an ordinary life, character of well-known animation, national flag and famous star. Second, such appropriated pop art techniques showed as pop color in strong primary color and silk screen, photomontage, collage, assemblage, graffiti, and lettering. Third, a variety of images featured earlier in art works were shown in parody. These works are valuable in that they are expressed aesthetically through regeneration of popular culture's various images in view of fashion, they are described in the non-traditional value with frolic resistance and deviation out of existing fashion norm, and they are given the dynamic creativity integrated with art and fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.399-412
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• 2013

This study introduces a new delivery method for designs as observed in the artwork trends of Damien Hirst and reflected in the unique expression methods of Modern fashion Collections. The study analyzed numerous resources (literature, dissertations, magazines, and the internet) about Damien Hirst and the examination of a modern fashion timeline is limited to after the 2000s. The 'grotesque trend' that appears in Damien Hirst's works can be classified into five categories (fragmented animal, mismatch, excessiveness and exaggeration, comedy and awfulness, and abnormality). Based on this, the study found that heterogeneous, abject abhorrence, double sided of the play, exaggerated atypia and devilishness in Modern fashion. This study suggests a positive direction for the 'grotesque technique' that could be recognized as one of the delivery methods for a unique fashion design based on the attachment of an aesthetic value that supersedes bizarreness and strangeness to expand various methods of expression.