• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권5호
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• pp.489-500
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• 2012

This work surveys the trend and dissolution characteristics in headdress that appear in Jean Paul Gaultier's collection. Along with a related literature review, a total of 903 headdress pieces shown in collections 40 times (excluding the common caps and hats) were analyzed, covering from 2001S/S to 2010 F/W of Jean Paul Gaultier's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter. The headdress trend indicated in his collections was divided into such subgroup forms of folklore, usage of natural things, usage of artificial things, religion, retro, scarf, variations in headgear, mask and veil, atypical type and abstract. Such an expression tendency was so unique and mixed characteristic that it was hard to define its form and structure thanks to enlargement and exaggeration, extremity in ornaments, and use of foreign materials, which led to creative dynamics. Gaultier's headdress also reflected the following characteristics: first, expression of difference indicative of time deconstruction; second, uncertainty of meanings via deconstruction; third, text interactivity via deconstruction of gender and material adopted; fourth, decentralization through dissolution of the Orient and the Occident.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.155-168
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• 2011

This study aims at analyzing the Mix & Match fashion trend expressed in the Ready to Wear collections shown in 27 collections of 3 designers(Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Comme des Gar$\c{c}$ons) over the past five years from 2007S/S to 2011S/S, and the results are as follows. 1) The characteristics were a combination of past and modern, the past and past prominent fashions combined at a different time, these styles and details were seen in Alexander McQueen's collection. 2) The properties of combination were expressed as a clash of cultures, such as East and West or African and European. 3) The characteristics of the combinations were expressed by differences in purpose, such as outer garments or underwear. 4) Artistic combinations of Mixing & Matching happen through a component confusion of art and garments. 5) The characteristics of Mixing & Matching fashion were expressed in images, especially in the case of Jean Paul Gaultier.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.188-206
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• 2001

In 1990's, many collections, showing trends of restoration, took the hippie fashion as their main theme. Therefore, this study investigates the aspects of the hippie trend focusing on style, materials, colors shown in Mlan Collection, New York Collection, London Collection, Paris Collection, Tokyo Woman's Collection, and street fashions. 1. In style, the collections and street fashions exhibited layered look. 2. In materials, natural fibers were preferred s in 1960's . 3. In colors, natural hues such as black, white, and brown were primarily used, whereas vivid colors were used as accent. 4. In patterns, floral patterns were most extensively used as the flower is the symbol of Hippie. Animal patterns were also used. 5. In accessories, the Indian bred, a symbolic accessory of Hippie, was used with various materials. The hippie fashion in 1990's appeared not s a total fashion, but as an ancillary associate has the role of accentuation like hair-style, make-up, acessaries, etc.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.196-207
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• 2012

본 연구는 패션디자이너들의 작품에 표현된 문양에 있어서 기초조형 요소를 응용한 사례 및 경향을 연구분석함으로써 패션디자인교육 분야에서 기초조형의 중요성에 대한 인식을 제고하기 위해 수행 되었다. 이 목적을 수행하기 위하여 2000년대 이후 2010까지 패션디자이너들의 작품들 중에서 기초조형의 요소인 점 선 면에서 직접적으로 영감을 얻었다고 볼 수 있는 주요 작품의 경향과 특성을 조사하고 대표적인 작품들을 기초조형의 개념 및 원리를 바탕으로 분석하였다. 조사결과 특히 2000년 s/s콜렉션 이후 2004 s/s를 까지를 중심으로 기초조형의 기본요소를 기본 모티브로 한 다양한 작품들이 유행하였다. 디자이너 Jil Sander, Bill Blass 등은 점 구성을 위주로 공간감과 중량감, 질감을 변화한 작품을 보여주었다. I.S. Sunao Kuwahara, 등은 다양한 질감의 선과 선구성을 응용한 디자인을 보여주었다. Vestium Officina, Loewe, 등은 선을 통한 면 분할이나 다양한 색채를 사용한 면 구성을 위주로 한 작품들을 발표하였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.55-68
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• 2008

This study is aiming to set a characteristic design and a fashion trend by analyzing hat style trends and fashion images shown in fashion collections in recent seven years. Also, based on the result of the analysis on the five world's major collections, the influence and the interrelation of hat and fashion image were analyzed. The study was performed by the context analysis method and the image evaluation method. In the context analysis method, the 1,391 pictures for hat-styles which were believed to be the standard of fashion style from the S/S season of 1998 to the F/W season of 2004 were analyzed. The research is summarized as follows. Based on the result of the fashion collections, the kinds of hats came Bowler, Beret, Cloche, Capeline, Cap and Hood in order, and Casual, Feminine, Natural, Formal, Romantic, and Mannish came in order for the case of the fashion images for putting on a hat. The result of the analysis on the characteristic of fashion design according to the kinds of hats, the casual image, with highest frequency, was found from all of the kinds except Capeline. Bowler and Cloche were conspicuous in jackets/slacks, Capeline was conspicuous in one-piece shape, and cloth silhouette showed the highest frequency in H type. As for Bowler, the color of cloth and hat was mostly black, and as for Beret and Cloche, achromatic color showed the highest frequency. But as for Capeline, the cloth color, including chromatic color, was various. As for Beret, pattern and material image were various comparatively, but as for other kinds of hats, there were the materials with no pattern and with hard material image.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.823-833
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• 2006

The globalization phenomenon of the 21st century has acted as the catalyst to accept diversity, and a new cultural code, ethnic, has emerged in the modem society by the pursuit of diversity throughout the whole society and culture. Unlike preceding studies focusing on ethnic concepts and design development, this study attempted comparative analyses on ethnic trends shown in the collections of two designers, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, who have strong ethnic consciousness. It is considered the comparative analysis on the two designers' collections with ethic images will be a guide to indicate the fashion philosophy of the two designers in the category of Japan, and this will be useful as basic data for the establishment of the globalization identity which is needed in the future fashion industry. The study results are as follows. First, it was found that the ethnic code has been so widely accepted by the world designers in a very positive form to accept foreign cultures that the ethnic code is now showing an aspect of eclecticism. Second, designer Issey Miyake has been pursuing his own ethnic style based on his philosophy to liberate humans through continuous researches and efforts on clothes. Third, Yohji Yamamoto has been pursuing a Japanese ethnic style as a designer who has expressed the unique beauty of Japan from the characteristics of Japanese traditional clothes. Fourth, as a result of comparative analyses on collections, they both have pursued an ethnic style based on the unique national characteristics of Japan, but it was also found that their fashion philosophy has developed differently in the same category of ethnic trend.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.745-758
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• 2008

In this paper, we examined the trend information collected by apparel industries to develop fashionable products. We also investigated the product development process of a swimwear industry, ELLE Swimwear, through in-depth interviews. The results are as follows; 1. The apparel industries were collecting information about a fashion trend, international exhibitions and fairs, world collections, and a market trend to develop fashionable products. 2. As the swimwear consumers are spreaded in all ages, the launching of more specialized swimwear brand with ages is required. 3. These days, swimwear is not only an item of sportswear but also being a fashionable product on street. Therefore, the industries should try to develop a various assortment of swimwear capable of coordinating with multi-mix instead of developing a separate item. 4. To design and produce swimwear satisfying functional, sensual and cultural performance, the development of new materials and patterns are required. 5. Nurturing of swimwear pattern specialists dealing with CAD is urgently required. 6. Turning of understanding about the importance of VMD and more attractive marketing strategies by a specialized team are also required.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.

• 한국도서관정보학회지
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• 제42권2호
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• pp.5-28
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• 2011

대학도서관의 궁극적인 사명은 대학의 교육, 연구, 사회봉사를 지원하기 위한 다양한 정보서비스를 제공하는데 있다. 이러한 사명을 성취하려면 대학도서관의 운영지침, 평가도구로 활용될 수 있는 최적의 기준을 개발하고 적시에 개정해야 한다. 이에 본 연구는 주요 국가(미국, 캐나다, 영국, 일본, 대만)의 대학도서관기준이 함축하는 동향과 특징을 개관 비교하고, 국내의 법적 및 권장기준에 내재된 문제점과 한계를 분석하여 장서, 직원, 시설 중심의 개정안을 제시하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.569-587
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• 2010

In the field of fashion in this modern era, the tendency of diversification has created a variety of hybrid patterns and this tendency is being accelerated simultaneously by the hybrid trend. This research aims to analyze the aesthetic features of hybrid fashion in the modern "Sports Inspired Fashion(SIF)." We analyze fashion in the past 10 years from 2001 S/S to 2010 S/S. We focus on the four largest worldwide collections from New York, Paris, Milano, and London and concentrate on analyzing the contents from 38 volumes of Gap Press magazine. To accomplish our goal of study, we first define the concept of sports-inspired fashion and propose a framework of analysis to study hybrid patterns by reviewing the previous studies on hybrid patterns. Second, we analyze a wide range of sports-inspired fashion examples that have appeared in Gap Press magazines for the past 10 years(those which have been inspired by sports uniforms and training wears). Third, we analyze and classify the hybrid patterns of sports-inspired fashion. The results of our research are as follows. We have collected a total of 534 SIF works from the whole set of 61359 pictures and examined 23 sports fields. In terms of seasonal changes, the SIF works were found the most in the spring collections. Then, we have identified 25 hybrid patterns. The time hybrid pattern comprises more than half of the data(58.2%). The class-culture hybrid patterns comprise 18.8%, while the gender hybrid patterns comprise 18.2%. However, the intercultural hybrid patterns were rarely found, comprising merely 5% of the data. Our analysis confirms that sports and sports wear fashion are changing and developing in truly diverse ways in this modern era. This trend has continued to influence the high fashion in the modern age and is expected to exert a continuous impact on the change of fashion in the future.