• 제목/요약/키워드: Traditional costumes

검색결과 352건 처리시간 0.027초

A Study on the Embroidery of Palestinian Costume

  • Kim, Moon-Sook;Moon, Shin-Ae
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • 제3권2호
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    • pp.161-174
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    • 2000
  • Today's advanced transport and mass media enables people to access easily and frequently to traditional costumes from different countries in the world. Consequently, fashion designers who are fascinated by the variety and beauty of traditional costumes, tend to adapt them to modern fashion design. The continuous study of traditional costumes at such time contains a meaning as a source of inspiration for the creation of a new fashion design. Therefore, among various costumes of the world, this study will focus on the costume of Palestine, that is situated at the crossroads of Europe, Asia and Afria and has exchanged various historical cultures with other cultural regions. It, especially, expects to provide a unique idea in the material modification field of today's fashion design by examining mainly the embroidery ornament which is the most distinctive feature of Palestinian costume. The conclusion was revealed that Palestinian women's costume largely consists of embroidered silk and cotton garments with a V-slitted square panel (gabeh) attached to the chest part. And a variety of luxurious embroidery was employed to emphasize different parts of the dress. These embroideries differ from area to area. Especially the embroidery from Bethlehem was well-known in many places and influenced those of other regions.

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한국 전통복식에 투영된 좌우 개념 (The Concept of Right-and-Left in Korean Traditional Costume)

  • 이은주
    • 복식
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    • 제38권
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    • pp.337-358
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    • 1998
  • Underlying principles on the origin and establishment of the concept fo Right-and-Left (R-&-L) in Korean traditional costume is studied in this paper. Among Korean traditional costumes, ordinary and funeral costumes are considered in this study. Thed concept of R-&-L expanded into different elements of daily life among Korean people is also considered as a process of conceptual development : starting from astron-omy principle, then developed to pragmatism principle, and expanded to abstraction principle. No evidence on the case where the astro-omy principle was directly applied to was found in this study. In most cases, pragmatism and abstraction principles are observed as underly-ing principles. In ordinary costumes, pragmatism principle is the fundamental base for R-&-L through right-hand-use rule. Even though abstraction prin-ciple was found in some ordinary costumes, we believe that this was generated for adding more meanings in addition to the pragmatism principle. In funeral costumes, pragmatism principle was almost totally ignored unlike in ordinary costumes because the funeral rite was performed though formality with abstract thoughts. The abstraction principle was exercised with the form of simple-discrimination rule based on the dual system along with Yin-Yang related cultural rules such as‘Yang-left-and-Yin-right’or‘father-left-and-mother-right’. However, the case where‘left-male-and-right-female’rule is applied to was not found in this study.

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삼국시대 지배계층 복식문화 연구 (A Study on the Costume of the Ruling Classes in the Three Kingdoms Period)

  • 이선재;양경애
    • 복식
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    • 제39권
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    • pp.181-196
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    • 1998
  • This study is about the similarities and the individualties of the traditional costumes in the ruling classes of Koguryo(高句麗), Bakjae(百濟), and Shilla(新羅). The analysis is based on the views of historical reformation on$\boxDr$Sam-gooksagi(三國史記)$\boxUl$Bongi(本紀). The costumes that were worn by the governing classes are categorized by the following, official duties, wars, ceremonies, and recreations(hunting). Up to the present time, there has been a great tendency to emphasize the similarities of the Three Kingdoms' costumes among most of academic researchers. However, the conceptions of individualities of the costumes among the Three Kingdoms were conceived by the facts that geological environments, political systems, social traditions, social aspects, and foreign affairs. The Three Kingdoms had different official rank systems along with official costume systems. Monopolization of official positions of the ruling parties tried to show their dignity and authority through styles of their costumes. The costumes of Koguryo were greatly differentiated by geographical regions ; One direct example is cheak of Pyoungyang and Anak regiona was named as official hats of rulling parties of Kokuryo. However, in this study, the cheak was viewed as a product of influences of Chinese costume. Further-more, the laguan was named as mooguan. Costumes of ceremonial occasions were heavily decorated to symbolize dignity and auth-ority. Metal ornament of headgear and belt, metal shoes were con-sidered as ceremonial costumes. the tight hunting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-ting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-tings were presumed to be spring and autumn clothing. Excavated from Neungasnlee, the hunting costumes inscribed in the gold incense burnner were confirmed as hunting costumes of Bakjae. The individuality of the costumes of the Three Kingdoms could also be supported by the fact that they had different climates. The temperature difference between Gipan region and Kyoungjoo(慶州) region was emphasized. Especially winter clothing would have had a big difference in style than the summer clothing. Through the research summarized above, this study was able to confirm that each of the Three Kingdoms had developed individualized costumes based on their geographical, cultural and environmental factors. Furthermore, through this study, it was possible to find out the difference as well as the similarities of their costumes according to each of their people's sociopolitical status, awareness of indepen-dence, andunique historical and traditional charactoristics.

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20세기 중엽 충청지역의 혼례복과 혼례풍속에 관한 민속학적 연구 (A Study of Falklore on Wedding Costumes and Wedding Practices in Chunchung District in the Middle of 20th Century)

  • 김정자
    • 복식
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    • 제50권3호
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    • pp.105-116
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    • 2000
  • In the middle of the 20th century the traditional wedding costumes in Chungchung district were very similar to those of high officials. A bridegroom out on blue DanRyoung, Samo, official belt, buckskin and two cranes figured Hyoongbae which high-ranking officials wore, A bride put green Wonsam and Chonkduri on her hair, The color and cloth of Chogori, Chima and underwear showed wedding practice in those days on which a daughter-in-law should endure a hard married life. It reflects the Confucian ideas and a patriarch society. This paper studies on the substantive reason they wore the traditional wedding costumes in Chungchung district is not thoroughly considered in a folkloristic respect. The traditional wedding culture that a bridegroom and a bride wore a formal suit can be a good instance which showed us their desire for social status of the upper class. The wedding practices were performed in order to get rid of an omen and keep a good their fortune.

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유럽의 지역축제에 나타난 토테미즘 복식 연구 -융의 상징이론을 중심으로- (A Study on Totemism Costume of Europe Local Festival -Based on the Symbolic Theory of C. G. Jung-)

  • 어경진;하지수
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제40권1호
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2016
  • Traditional costumes have evolved while reflecting the social, cultural and psychological values of the era. Costumes gain meaning by being worn that also allows their various symbolic meanings to be derived. Costumes worn in festivals by specific societies and organizations have especially apparent symbolism pertaining to their purpose. Most countries have traditional festivals that embody the country's distinct culture, history and traditions. These festivals are acts of consciousness expressing a special meaning of the community. Costumes represent a glimpse of life and culture during a festival period; in addition, the costume's style, color elements and decorations are expressions of community values and a distinct symbolic mechanism. Totemism (a significant element of these festivals) has been passed down for many generations. The current costumes for Totemism are distinct (compared to normal festival costumes) and embody a more symbolic meaning. This study deduces the exaggerated style, the concealment and disguise of the human body, and the pursuit of pleasure expressed in the Totemism costumes of regional European festivals. The symbolization theories of C. G. Jung and an analysis of Totemism costumes allow an understanding of their existential significance, their role as the medium between consciousness and unconsciousness, their meaning of symbolic transcendental unity, and their meaning of giving consciousness to the mind.

고려시대 사람들의 삶과 전통의상에 대한 고찰 (A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty)

  • 최규성
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제12권6호
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    • pp.1060-1069
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    • 2004
  • We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

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복식유물의 보존을 위한 제안 -밀창군 조복의 복제를 중심으로- (Proposition for Conservation of Traditional Costumes -Mainly on the Replication of Milchanggun's Jobok)

  • 채옥자;박지선;박성실
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제30권6호
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    • pp.859-869
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    • 2006
  • We proposed that the replicas be made as an alternative to achieve such reciprocal goals as the safe preservation of traditional costume relics and socio-educational realizations through exhibitions, etc., A replication was categorized for its purpose into a restoral replication: a work based on the historical research of color and shapes as they were originally made and a current state replication : a production based on a minute record of the relics as they are excavated. Then, we reported the reproduction process from the excavation to the exhibition on the excavated traditional costumes of Milchanggun's Jobok. The purpose of a replication of relics is to record the relics experiencing the change resulted from the inevitable degeneration over time as organic cultural assets together with the substitution exhibition of relics and academic researches and so on.

19세기~20세기 초 동 슬라브 민족 전통혼례복의 고찰 (A Study on the Traditional Wedding Costume of East Slav (XIX~Early XX Century))

  • 최수빈;조우현
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제25권2호
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    • pp.275-286
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of costume and its ornaments which are appeared in the traditional wedding ceremonial customs and the wedding costumes of Eastern Slav, that is consisted of Russian, Belarusian and Ukrainian from the 19 to the early of 20C. In this study, many different procedures of wedding ceremony with a various kind of wedding costumes are shown. A wedding custom of Eastern Slav had been developed by a intermixed style of the Christianism and a paganism. The wedding custom is organized by the 3 sequential procedures; before a wedding, a wedding, after a wedding Their wedding means the union of the bride into the bridegrooms family in order to establish a new family. Therefore, the wedding costumes have been developed according to this, and the head gears have developed as a symbol which presents the meaning. A brides costume is composed of a head gear, \"Lubaha\", and \"Sarafan\" or a skirt. A bridegrooms one is made up of \"Lubaha\", and trousers. These costumes are kept through their whole life, and are worn in every important ceremonial period. Even though, the wedding customs and the wedding costumes of Russia, Belarus, and Ukrain have been developed by their general commonness, there are regionally certain differences. It is one of the important research object of the Eurasian era in the view point of culture and ethnographic, that to know the symbolism appeared in the traditional weeding ceremonial customs and the wedding costumes of Eastern Slav.ding costumes of Eastern Slav.

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황진이 시조 분석을 통한 한국 창작무용 의상디자인 연구 (A study on Korean creative dance costumes design through analysis of Jin-Yi Hwang's Sijos)

  • 김윤지;김혜경
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제27권4호
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    • pp.353-367
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    • 2019
  • These days, costumes of Korean creative dancing performances have been changed to be modernized and to be out of traditional regulation, as the representation of the Korean styles were replaced by other props and art devices. In this article, we have applied the emotions expressed in Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos (Korean traditional poems), to Korean creative dancing costumes in modern style. chose three typical sijos from her six pieces, titled "Green mountain is like what I've meant", "To Byeokgyesoo in Cheongsan-ri" and "Dongjibam ginaginbam". In brief, Jin-Yi Hwang expressed her "everlasting love and emptiness", "temptative conciliation" and "eager waiting" these three sijos, respectively. The character of Jin-Yi Hwang was shown in many TV soap operas and films, and the costumes were either much modernized, and not accurately based on the sijos she had written. Thus, we designed, made flat sketched, and fabricated three Korean creative dancing costumes from the three sijos, listed. We tried to highlight the aesthetic impression and the activeness of the dancing costumes, using both traditional and modern Korean fabrics. Since Korean dance costumes had not yet been inspired from Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos, we discussed the importance of the fabric items, as well as the visual, auditory, and tactile characteristics of the costumes and dancers to emphasize Jin-Yi Hwang's expressed emotions.

김현정의 한국화에 나타난 한국 전통 복식의 표현 특성 연구 (A Study on the Characteristic Expression of Korean Traditional Costumes shown in the Korean Paintings by Kim Hyun-Jung)

  • 나유신
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제23권2호
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    • pp.124-139
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    • 2019
  • The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristic expression of Korean traditional costumes shown in the Korean paintings by Kim Hyun-Jung. The study analyzed the paintings by Kim Hyun-Jung to find out the characteristics of the contemporary Korean paintings and the expression of Korean traditional costumes. The characteristics of Kim Hyun-Jung's works are as follows: 1) The paintings are drawn by using Korean traditional painting methods and finished with Korean traditional paper, hanji. Moreover, they show the Korean traditional costume as main subject material. 2) They use modern painting methods, such as collage, and show pop art characters by use of contemporary popular products. 3) The artist communicates with the public through SNS and YouTube, and shows characteristics of popular art through commercial art products and advertisements. The characteristics of the Korean traditional costume in Kim Hyun-Jung's works are as follows. 1) The hanbok shown in the paintings is a traditional style with tight jeogori and wide chima. Chima is drawn in thin coloring with Korean ink and jeogori is expressed with semi-transparent hanji in various patterns and colors, which shows the subject 'coy'. 2) Various kinds of Korean traditional accessories and modernized flower shoes with high heels are shown as subject materials. The art works by contemporary Korean artists are expected to be the route to give valuable information to the public about Korean traditional costumes as well as the trendy Korean culture.