• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.23-33
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• 2010

Articles from The New York Times and magazines including Consumer Digest, Journal of Home Economics, Scholastic, Time and Woman's Home Companion were analyzed in this study and focused on the following research questions: How did the social situation influence American women's adoption of pants during World War II? How were the social opinions of women's adoption of pants? How did American women's adoption of pants and the social opinions on women's pants represent the process of change in the definition of femininity during World War II? Women were encouraged to wear pants in work places because many women had to work in defense industries and farms. Women had to wear pants during the winter to keep warm in order to conserve oil, rubber, and other materials. In addition, wearing men's clothes became a fashion trend among college women during this period. However, practicality was often not the primary thing alone to consider in women's fashion. Femininity was still important in women's fashion. There were criticisms over the women's adoption of pants. Regulations against pants were imposed on women, while there were women who wanted to dress like ladies even at defense industries. An abrupt change in women's gender roles and the increased adoption of trousers aroused social ambivalence about the traditional definition of femininity. Even though many women returned to their homes after the war, the social demand of practicality in women's day-time clothes during the war offered women the experience of comfort and practicality in pants. These experiences contributed to paving the way for more women to adopt pants and helped establishing a new definition of femininity after the war.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.107-120
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• 2016

This study examines functions in traditional Korean special costumes in accordance with the climatic factors of the Korean peninsula. The study focused on clothes worn by commoners during the Joseon dynasty. Climate change has been a major global issue in recent times, and it has been a hot topic in social, cultural, scientific, economic, and industrial communities. Studies have been conducted regarding the rapidly changing climate, and finding ways to cope with unusual temperatures. This thesis studies the development of special costumes in preparation for unusual climates, and requirements of the costume in accordance with the climatic factors, as well as the direction of its development. Its biggest significance lies in collecting and organizing the research data on special costume studies, and on costumes of the commoners, which have been fairly insufficient up to this point. After the Little Ice Age, the Joseon Dynasty period faced poor external environment due to unusual temperatures. The results of studying the costumes of the commoners are as follows: The climate of the Korean peninsula displayed different characteristics depending on the season, so the form, material, and appearance of the seasonal clothing items showed clear differences, and the difference in the crops cultivated according to the climate led to difference in material and material preference shown in the costumes. This meant that costumes differed based on region. In addition, difference in social hierarchy, regulations on costume according to class, and farming oriented social background during the period of Joseon dynasty slowed the development of costumes of commoners, but appears to have had a positive effect on the development of special costumes. We anticipate more succeeding studies on costumes of the commoners and special costumes in the future. We hope more costumes that can wisely respond to the approaching changes in temperature in the Korean peninsula can be designed via modernization of traditional Korean special costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.414-429
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• 1997

This study aides at investigating the chang of habit in 'the Korean Catholic Womens's Religious Society' and analyzing its characteristics during the period from 1888 up to now. The research was carried out by investigating a wide range of documents including those on museums of religious society, and by considering the questionnaires and interviews on the present habit. The religious habit changed as a result of the social, cultural, and religious influence of period. The characteristics of their habit are analyzed in terms of four differnt periods as follow; (1) From the arrival of 'the Congregation of Sistersof 57 Paul de Chartres' to the year of Korean Endependence. (1888-1945) : The western style religious habit was introduced and settled later in korea by the members of forign religious society. The design of this religious halite might be originated from the mediaval times. (2) From the year of Korean Independence througt before the Vatican Council ll (1946 -1965) : Traditional habit style had been slowly modified. In this periord, ancient style coexisted with the reformed style. Also ordinary clothing style were observed in the religious society. (3) After the Vatican Council II(after 1965) : 'Decree on the up-to-date renewal of religious life'of the Vatican Council II affected strongly the traditional habile design. This led to a change from the ancient habit design to practical, modern and hygienic one. In addition, the habit was suited to the time and place as well as to the need of the apostolate. (4) Currently Situation(1996) : Mostly religious habit of korea is maintaining the style changed after the Vatican Council II. Present style is very simplyfied than the traditional one. But many religious societies make efforts for keeping the symbolic meaning of religious habit. All over the world, religious societies allowing ordinary clothes, but most korean women's religious societies still hold on religious habit.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.12-22
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• 2002

This study examines the visitors'evaluations of tourism resources in Insa-dong, which the Seoul metropolitan government has improved recently. This study adopted the method of Importance-Performance Analysis by collecting data through questionnaires. A random sampling of visitors to Insa-dong was conducted in June and July,2001. The survey included questions on the physical and psychological components of Insa-dong's tourism resources. In the case of physical components, eight factors(ancient arts shop, art gallery, atelier, calligraphy shop, pottery arts, traditional tea house, antique shop, traditional clothes) out of thirteen were categorized as 'keeping up the good work'. None of the Physical components was shown as 'low priority'or'possible overkill'. In particular, four factors(restaurant, heritage, Korean-style house and alley, traditional cultural festival) need to be impoved most urgently in terms of visitors'satisfaction. Survey results realize them as high priority in importance but low in performance, thereby designated as, 'concentrate here'. An image of the 'street' showed to be high in importance and identical in performance, so can be categorized between'keeping up the good work'and 'concentrate here'. The results show that unusual outdoor spaces and the festivals of Insa-dong have a significant meaning to the visitors. In the case of psychological components, three factors(general atmosphere experience of unusual atmosphere, appropriateness of stroll time) out of seventeen were categorized as 'keeping up the good work'. Ore factor (shopping) was designated as 'low priority'and not found to be 'possible overkill'. Thirteen factors (various events, possibility of various activity, various flood, richness of play, new experience, education cultural inheritance, parking facilities, resting places, green spaces, meeting places, guide map and information, cleanliness of facilities/convenience) need to be improved mast urgently in terms of visitors' fulfillment. They are perceived as areas of 'concentrate here'. This confirms that attractive events are essential for the recent visitor satisfaction. Furthermore, visitors are not satisfied with its amenity and acccss in Insa-dong despite the improvements. In conclusion, positive impressions, both physical and psychological, should be maintained while factors mentioned to be lacking should be prioritized in order of necessity to improve the image of Insa-dong and solutions need to be found and implemented. The results of this study would be helpful in the planning and management of nsa-dong considering the visitors'requirements.

• Journal of Korean Medical Ki-Gong Academy
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.117-143
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• 2009

The community of women into society in various fields is expanding, and married late, and accordingly, the first child birth is increasing age. Accordingly, dystocia has also increased. Listed in the literature that the traditional method of birth seemed to oriental medical interpretation of one of the ancient wisdom of the predecessors to explore. The result of this study is summarized as follows. 1. Child birth custom divide into childbirth preparation, childbirth and postpartum care. Postpartum care divide into preparation of the birthplace, food for pregnant woman and birth preparation of the necessary things. 2. Preparation of the birthplace of the court case and that qeen is three months, one month before that in the case of concubines were installed. The difference in manners, and actual number but the configuration of the same item was prepared. In the private, birthplace is installed husband's home or parent's home. 3. Rice and seaweed is food for pregnant woman. San Miguel (产 米), sangwak (山 藿) specifically called was selected by Keep elaborate. 4. 1 month before birth to baby clothing is usually prepared. For the safe of a paturient woman and a baby, magical prescription was practiced in so-guk-so(昭格署) in early chosun dynasty. After so-guk-so(昭格署) abolished magical practice was stopped. Then Wore old clothes based on dong-ui-bo-gam(東醫寶鑑) 5. Im-san-ye-zi-bub(臨产豫智法) specifically to instruct the royal birth is the birth of guidelines. Im-san-ye-zi-bub(臨产豫智法) cosist of birth place, abdominal pain Precautions, food, care after childbirth, remove the plecenta posion, method of cut navel, bath, protection. Through various court records of the situation, according to the guidelines are properly applied based on dong-ui-bo-gam(東醫寶鑑).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.336-344
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• 2010

Stage costumes are characterized by the importance as a medium of total visual expression on a synthetic art and need to be designed more effectively. This study followed the stage costumes of the play 'Long long time ago whuo-ee whuoee' which participated in the China-Japan-Korea University Theatre Festival. By consisting of the framework of a Korean story that tells and expands the visual expression province by the access method of a producer, the unique costume in the play was created by the dyeing of the traditional hangi. First, the use of hanji in theater represents originality and a fresh variation with the formative beauty of stage costumes in accordance with hanji that conforms to the recreation of tradition. Second, the dip dyeing technique made it possible to express colors limitlessly and the airbrush dyeing technique along with dyeing twice could account for the weak points of the color. As a result, the color brought effect as expected. Third, the weak points were supported by a Jumchi technique that created the fibroid material tangled with stronger adhesion in the creation of a hangi costume. In addition, dyed hangi was attached to the outer fabric. It allowed the costume to have a unique texture that was both soft and tough. This enforced the visualization of the costume and durability to prevent possible damage by the performers. Forth, pieces of hanji were attached to the damaged parts of the costume after re-visiting the dress rehearsal. As a result, the stage costumes represented the shabby clothes that express the social class of the characters. A new understanding of the excellence of traditional hanji was found and confirmed the possibility of it as a material for stage costumes through the study.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.11-26
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• 2022

The Hallyu wave based on K-pop and K-culture has increased the global interest in Korean culture. Therefore, to satisfy consumer demand, there is an attempt to develop a variable fashion design using traditional Korean culture. Transformable fashion design causes changes in form and meaning according to various situations and needs and can induce active participation of consumers. Therefore, we intend to propose a transformable fashion design that is based on traditional Korean culture but appears in a new form and meets the needs of consumers of fashion design. Among Korean traditional culture, wrapping cloths, bojagi are practically used by ordinary people until now, and their shape and use change according to the user's needs. This study intends to derive expression characteristics by examining the expression tendencies of bojagi and to develop transformable fashion designs through the derived data. The purpose of this study is to make and propose transformable fashion designs in real life using the expression characteristics of Korean bojagi. As the method of this study, we first conducted a literature review. Through this, a case study of empirical production was conducted in parallel with the development and production of transformable fashion designs using bojagi. A total of three illustrations and six variable fashion designs were developed. Two of the six works are transformable fashion design that change through movement and expansion of the square shape, the prototype of the bojagi, and two works are modular, bringing changes in function through combination and separation. The work was produced as a multi-purpose transformable fashion design that can be used as clothes or a bag.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2022

K-pop stars are an important influence in the era of digital culture based on emotions. The purpose of this study is to visually express the identity and worldview of their music in the virtual and real world, and to promote Korea's current and past culture. The study also intends to appeal to the emotions of the global fans by designing original textile in their music video 'IDOL' on Tiny TAN - a symbol of world pop star BTS. For design development, traditional Korean images shown in the 'IDOL' video were collected, patterns for each member were selected, and a motif was designed on Adobe Illustrator. We selected the dragon as the motif for V, cloud for Suga, chrysanthemums for Jin, mask for Jung Kook, hanok pavilion for RM, fan for Jimin, and Sam Taegeuk for J-Hope. The selected motifs were designed as per the four textile design arrangement methods: square pattern, 1/2 half drop pattern, turn-around pattern, and panel pattern. The design was presented by mapping Kwaeja to Tiny TAN character. The developed textile design can be used not only for character costumes in virtual space, but also for various products such as clothes, accessories, bedding, cosmetics, stationery, and food. By using it to produce goods inspired by K-pop stars, it can be used as basic data for the development of high value-added competitive products in the global market and create synergy effects of K-Design, which would lead a new trend in the design world.

• Journal of Internet Computing and Services
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.117-130
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• 2008

This paper proposes a stable and robust method to distinct the color similarity for clothes using the LBG algorithm under various light sources, Since the conventional methods, such as the histogram intersection and the accumulated histogram, are profoundly sensitive to the changing of light environments, the distinction of color similarity for the same cloth can be different due to the complicated light sources. To reduce the effects of the light sources, the properties of hue and saturation which consistently sustain the characteristic of the color under the various changes of light sources are analyzed to define the characteristic of the color distribution. In a two-dimensional space determined by the properties of hue and saturation, the LBG algorithm, a non-parametric clustering approach, is applied to examine the color distribution of images for each clothes. The color similarity of images is defined by the average of Euclidean distance between the mapping clusters which are calculated from the result of clustering of both images. To prove the stability of the proposed method, the results of the color similarity between our method and the traditional histogram analysis based methods are compared using a dozen of cloth examples that obtained under different light environments. Our method successively provides the classification between the same cloth image pair and the different cloth image pair and this classification of color similarity for clothe images obtains the 91.6% of success rate.