• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.233-244
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• 1998

This research wants to find the possibility for new paradigm of modern Korean dress by accepting and harmonizing the tradition and the modernization of Korean design when Korean designers enter into Paris collection and express identity of Korean fashion, and investigates the characteristics of Korean design with concentrating on the works of Young-hee Lee, Shin-woo Lee, Tae-ok Jin who have exhibited their works at Paris Collection. For one of the above characteristics Young-hee Lee, a designer of Korean clothes, emphasized to build up image of Korean fashion as a form of Korea without any modification, and expressed universal western-style silhouette as Korean image by using traditional technique including dyeing and silk made by herself, quil-t and decorative saddle stitching. In the as-pect that a chain of work has made not by westernization of Korean clothes but by re-creation of Korean clothes, it suggested a new way of modern Korean fashion with harmonizing tradition with modernizations as of present based on our own dress tradition and have got good reputation from the press and the field in Paris as well. Therefore the tradition and the modernization of Korean design is not confronted or compromised in form, color, material, motif and decoration but has to be harmonized and reconciled independently in order that visual characteristics of dress can be made as one of Korean image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.124-136
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• 2009

This Study is on the Punggongyubodoryake. Punggongyubodoryak was the records and pictures written by Ohgyeongmun(吳景文, Painter) and Gangbonpungeon(岡本豊彦, a Japanese painter, 1773~1745). in 1832. Those records and pictures were about the gifts which Korea's King(宣祖, 1567-1608) sent to Doyotomi Hideyosi(豊臣秀吉, Pungsinsugil) in 1590. Most of the gifts were of the Korean costume, which meant that Korea recognized Doyotomi Hideyosi as the new general of Japan, Tokugawa Shogunate(幕府將軍). The pictures of every Clothing in punggongyubodoryake described forms of every cloth and delineated ornamental patterns and sizes of clothing as closely as actual, they were clothes of the Middle period of Chosun. the author of the study inferred that it would be one of the impotent materials in the history of the Korean traditional costume. Among the clothes, there were several danryeongs(단령, ceremonial coat), okgwan (玉冠 woman headdress with) and paeok(佩玉, pendents with jade stings) and choongdan(中單 ceremonial undercoat) and Sang(裳, ceremonial Skirts for man), gyeontongsuseulran (肩通袖膝襕, chinese coat) was recorded in punggongyubodoryake. they were not a set of clothes for ceremonial costume but a mixture of men's and women's costume, of korean and abroad styles. the author inferred that this phenomenon was actually a good proof that the gifts were sent to Hideyosi only as courtesy, which meant for downgrading the receiver.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.141-157
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• 2001

It has been since 15 century when Ainu realized themselves as a race. Their folk culture had been formed with the effect of East-northern Asia and cultural exchange with Japanese through the northern trade during 17 -18 centuries. It can be ascertained from the typical festival food and clothing. clothing style and the ornaments of Ainu people. The basics of Ainu people are composed of an unfolding clothes which men and women had wort in one-piece style even though they had lived in the northernmost cold climate. Atousi is their typical clothing which had been made of the grass fiber. Ainu people had imported the old cotton clothes from the trading with the mainland roughly in the late E-do (late 18 century). Ainu's clothing is divided broadly into Aiusi and Moreu pattern. Ainu people had decorated their back, shoulder, collar, burial clothes, waist and hem by changing and mixing them. These are the expression of their desire to prevent themselves from the wicked plot or the devil. There is no similar Ainu patterns or skill in Kimono, while it is known to be rather related to the area of Amur River, Sakhalin, and the distant Mongolia. Therefore, the traditional pattern of Ainu should be the continental conception which had been skilfully shaped through the trading with the north adding the series of Ainu People.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.405-416
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• 2006

We, in this thesis, examined the similarities and differences of bat patterns in China and Korea, along with a consideration of how two peoples understood bats and how their understanding of bats developed and also influenced the bat patterns. As for research period, the Ming(明) dynasty and the Qing(淸) dynasty in China and the Chosun dynasty in Korea were considered. The subjects of this study included clothes, personal ornaments, and embroidery. This research was done by comparing and analyzing the similarities and differences of two countries' bat patterns. The results of comparing and analyzing Chinese and Korean bat patterns were as follows: In terms of similarity, people of two countries understood bat patterns as the symbol of happiness. Therefore, they were used in clothes, personal ornaments, and daily necessities. In terms of difference, bat patterns of two countries had different shapes. In China, colorful and realistic single bat patterns were shown as intensive composition, whereas in Korea plain and simple bat patterns were used. These differences resulted from different way of understanding of bat patterns. It can be concluded that the bat patterns can be a great cultural commodity with high commercial values, if the traditional pattern is used as a unique element of the Oriental designs and altered and developed to attract consumers' attention.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.54-66
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• 2012

This research analyzes the late Joseon's variously developed characteristics of women's underwear and its formative elements, and ultimately aims to apply such characteristics to designing modern outfits. The main purpose of the presented work is to give guidelines on utilizing the fashion legacy in a various way, and inheriting the traditional concept of beauty by developing it into modern fashion designs. The designing and producing of the work is based on the analysis of previous researches, genre paintings, and traditional costumes in museums. Based on this research, the application of traditional underwear design to today's outfits involves the following points. First, the presented work features the formative outlines of traditional underwear as an inspiration for outer garments. Secondly, various traditional textiles are used such as ramie fabrics, damask silk, silk fabrics, fur, etc. for four seasons and they are turned to practical use for modern outfits. Third, colors of choice are white and low saturation colors to create an elegant and serene atmosphere. Finally, traditional sewing techniques are specifically applied to modern fashion designs. Included are: Nubim technique, Gob-sol technique, and the patching method. This work pursues the design of practical use by tying up clothes with straps and knots to prevent them from falling off.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.26-33
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• 2009

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of concealing, revealing, and deforming the body. Using �body�t o analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the absence of physicality in fashion focusing on the deformation of the body parts. The absence of physicality denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body, which opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and signifi? f clothing.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.145-159
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• 1996

Surrealism was originated from the influence of dadaism as one of the new movement in the 20th C. That movement denied the traditional art form, searched the man's inner consciousness and subconsciousness, and discovered automatism as a means to realize this. In this paper, 1 studied the relationship between fashion and art trend, investigating the influence which surrealistic idea and its expression made on modern fashion. Surrealism has expanded and developed the creation of fashion for the 20th century, by supplying a new and good idea th fashion design, and in the coming 21th C., it will greatly contribute to the development for future form of clothes, carrying out the essential function of clothes, which is called the expression of human nature in the harmonization with man.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.83-100
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to identify the change and characteristics of 20th Korean women's make-up the result of the study as follows: In the period 1920's 1. The drastic social changes such as civilzation and revolution together with the in troduction of western culture affected make-up and clothes. New women and high school girls wore the modified costume make-up hair style But general public women keep to traditional skin care style and white skin colour was popular. 2. In recent year after 1960's economic de-velopment the women's social status were pormoted after 1970's various colour em-phasize lip eye there by resulting in remark-able modification in the Korean women's apperance. In those days there was the large cosmetic producst of vavious colour 3. The result of this study indicated that the value of recognize the importance of total fashion is the harmonization of clothes and make-up 4. It was also suggested Korean beauty in the future should be achieved in accordance with tradition and modern sense.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.1-8
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• 2007

In the decade of the 1920s in an America, with booming of economy, people had more money. And with the development of transportation, people can afford expensive traveling throughout Europe. With this reason they were exposed to a nobility of European style and liked royalty more than before. American hunting man wanted traditional dress to express their status as a psychological code and the reason of the existing very similar hunting garment in nowadays is based on this belief. The purpose of this study is not merely understanding the styles of American Men's hunting and shooting garments in the 1920s but understanding the psychology of the people. People quite clearly do not dress according to function ore need alone and, in fact the consumption of clothes increasingly serves no other purpose than to fulfill or express psychological or social, rather than practical need.

• Journal of Families and Better Life
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.111-127
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• 2001

The purposes of this study were to investigate the relationships between individuals characteristics (socio-economic status, time pressures, resources related with implementing housework), attitudes toward goods characteristics, and the level of market goods substitution of housework in the domain of foods and clothes. For empirical analysis, the data of the study was collected from 572 married women living in Seoul. Covariance structure analysis were employed for data analysis, using LISREL. The major findings were as follows: 1) Individuals characteristics, attitudes toward market goods characteristics, and the level of goods substitution of housework had causal relationships. 2) Generally, wifes age and resources related with implementing housework were negative predictors of the level of market goods substitution of housework and wifes education, income, time pressures, attitudes toward characteristics of market goods were positive predictors. Wifes employment was a constraint of Korean traditional sauce, clothes repairing service and laundry service purchases, but a facilitator of the level of dining-out.