Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.36
no.10
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pp.1050-1057
/
2012
This study helps develop a cool body armor that maintains a tight-fit configuration to the body surface and evaluates the performance of newly developed body armor in a wear test. Three types of body armor were used for evaluation. One was a tight fitting body armor that was constructed to improve the degree of fit and ease of movement for Korean soldier using 3D technology. Another was ventilating body armor with attached spacers on the shoulder to reduce the thermal stress on the soldier. The third was a prevailing body armor produced by a Korean body armor company. In order to evaluate the performance of the body armor, a human wear test, a thermal mannequin test, and computational fluid dynamics (CFD) were executed. Five subjects participated in the wear test. Subjective wear sensation, total amount of sweat and dynamic change of clothing microclimate were observed during and after exercise on a treadmill; subsequently, it was found that subjects rated tight fitting body armor and ventilating body armor lighter, drier, and easier to move than the conventional body armor (p<.05). Total amount of sweat was the least in the case of ventilating body armor. The thermal resistance and vapor resistance of the ventilating body armor were improved remarkably. In addition, the skin temperature of the ventilating body armor with spacers was lower than the tight fitting body armor by at least $1^{\circ}C$ in the CFD result. It is noted that thermal-wet comfort of the 3D body armor with ventilating feature is superior to the conventional body armor, especially when the ventilating channel is not closed due to a backpack.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.23
no.4
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pp.149-166
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2021
This study tried to suggest a drafting method to draft tight fit torso patterns suitable for adult males with a sway back somatotype and a bend forward somatotype by setting and distributing the ease through the completion of the somatic surface pattern using the 3D body surface segment method. It was intended to be presented as a drafting method. As for the research method, the suitability of the somatic surface patterns and the tight fit torso patterns were confirmed by the evaluation of virtual wear, and the patterns were modified and supplemented. The research results are as follows. In the first evaluation of the tight fit torso patterns, the average, for 55 evaluation items, was 3.92 points for the sway back somatotype and 3.89 points for the bend forward somatotype. In the second evaluation, the bend forward somatotype was 4.51 points and the sway back somatotype was 4.62 points. The chest circumference ease amount for the bend forward somatotype and the sway back somatotype are 6.5% (6.8 cm) and 7% (6.8 cm) of the chest circumference, respectively, and the distribution of the front and back ease is the same at 4:6 (2.72 cm:4.08 cm). The waist circumference ease amount is 6.5% (5.8cm) and 6.5% (5.6 cm) of the waist circumference dimensions, and the distribution of the front and backease are 5:5 (1.45 cm: 1.45 cm) and 4:6 (2.24 cm: 3.36 cm), respectively. The completed tight fit torso patterns were converted into institutional formulas and presented as a drafting method.
The purpose of this study was improvement of the pants fit for obese women. The results were as follows; 5 obese women in their 20s and 30s were selected for the testing 3D body. They showed no significant differences in all items, comparing with the data of 5th Size Korea body dimensions. The average waist circumstance of the subjects' 3D body dimensions was 87.0 cm and hip circumstance was 102.4 cm, and their obese body types had similar mean values. Based on the survey results and the 3D body dimensions of 5th Size Korea body dimensions, a pants pattern to supplement their body type and improve a fit was designed with waist circumference(88 cm), hip circumference(103 cm), crotch length(27.1 cm), thigh circumference(62 cm), pants length(97 cm), pants hem line circumference(44 cm). Based on the detailed design of ready made pants and the study results of young obese women's preference for pants design, pants of straight silhouette and semi-tight fit which have waist line lowered by 3.5 cm from the waist circumference line, 3.5 cm belt width, no front dart and one back dart, were manufactured with 100% black cotton and cotton spandex mixed fabrics.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.30
no.5
s.153
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pp.722-732
/
2006
The pattern making of the tight-fitting collars which often used in diving suits, dance wear, or cycle wear has not been fully established. To develop tight-fitting collar pattern directly from 3D images from the representative somatotypes, dressforms developed by Jaeun Jung were used. The 3D scan data of the four male dressforms were obtained using Exyma-1200. Triangle Simplification and the Runge-Kutta method were applied to reduce the 3D scan data points and to make the segmented triangular patches in a plane from 3D data. As results, apparent differences between the tight-fitting collar patterns obtained from the 3D scan data and the ordinary 2D collar patterns were found around the center back line. The curvatures of the center back line were higher in all types of the tight-fitting collar than in the ordinary collar pattern. Relative differences in the shape of collar lines among four representative Korean men were reported. To fit the curved shape of the back neckline, 1.8 cm should be reduced from the upper neckline in average. We suggested the direct pattern making method for the 2D tight-fitting collar patterns considering the 3D shape of various types of men's dressform.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.36
no.4
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pp.443-455
/
2012
In this research, a woman matched to the average Korean standard size specification of 21-24 years of age was scanned using Cyberware. Rapidform 2004 was used to separate the body zone into fit zone, action zone and design zone, depending on the function of the lower body. Each divided body zone expanded radially using 'offset' by 1.60mm at the cross section of the waist, and 6.36mm at the hip level. Resultant ease values were 1cm and 4cm along the waistline and hipline (respectively), as recommended in previous research. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD was used to develop a pant pattern from the enlarged 3D body surface blocks. A total of five pants were constructed using conventional fabrics for light weight formal pants. The appearance of the experimental pants were evaluated by five clothing-major evaluators using a questionnaire that consisted of 21 questions. In addition, functional aspects of the experimental pants were also evaluated by wearer while performing five postures for the measurement of ease of movement. It was found that, the method of regional offset and suggested 3D to 2D pattern development generate reasonably good pant patterns. Among the pattern block arrangements, the method B was evaluated as the best way to generate formal pants from the tight-fit pattern, which fit smoothly over the lower body for maintaining ease of movement.
In this study, we have developed the ergonomic pattern from the 3D human body reflecting cycling posture and extensibility of the stretch fabrics. Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athlete's tight-fitting stretch garments by reducing the original pattern is a challenging subject, which influence on the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationships between the reduction rates of the 2D pattern obtained from the 3D human scan and resultant clothing pressure were explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by reduced clothing pattern. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using a seven-point Likert scale on two consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were asked to take five different postures including waist flexion, sitting and others. A Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 points indicating the best fit in tight-fitting pants. Comparing 2/3T-pattern with T-pattern, the latter was superior to 2/3T-pattern in terms of adhere well to the waist and hip area in the 0.032 significance level. T-pattern was superior to 2/3T-pattern in terms of fitting and wear comfort. As results, the pattern obtained from the flexed body reflecting cycling posture already included the contraction and extension of the skin while cycling posture, so that the extra ease for movement and good fit was not need to be considered. The optimized reduction rates were determined with the proposed reduction rate, the resultant pressure range was within the range of $0.5{\sim}3.0gf/cm^2$ at eight locations on the body except front waist band and thigh band.
The clothing behavior of male homosexuals were examined. Especially their clothing preference, clothing purchase behavior and clothing symbols as a group took were analysed. The subject was 49 male-homosexuals and the survey was done at the tray bars in Yi-Tae-Won in Seoul. The questionnaire and interview method were broth used to collect the data. The findings from the study were as follows : 1. The casual style was mostly preferred and lightly-fitted style was more preferred than loose style. Both straight type blue jeans and tight-fit style were widely worn by the subject. 2 Among design, price, color, fashion trend and sewing quality. design was the most important factor In clothing purchase. Besides design, color and fashion trend were counted more seriously than price or sowing quality. Blue and black were preferred as clothing colors. 3. Department stores were the most popular shopping place. and then traditional markets and shops near Universities were also preferred. Over 60% of the subjects answered that the decision of clothing purchase was made by himself and 20% of the subject used friend as personal information sources. The score stimuli was the most frequently used information for apparel shopping, and fashion magazines were also used as an important information source. 4. The clothing related symbols used to represent group look were lightly-fitted style. right ear-piercing, tight-fit plaid pants, leather look, rainbow flag, bandannas, reversed triangle. etc. And the subjects thought the symbols were not meaningful as group look because they were already adopted by the non-homosexual people. And they thought that their style of fashion has influenced on that of mass.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.32
no.11
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pp.1771-1781
/
2008
The purpose of this study was to classify the casual image by clothing design elements. This research was done by survey method with 30 kinds of casual image photos selected in fashion magazines. The data was analyzed by Reliability Analysis, Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's test and MDS. The results of this study are as follows: 1. Casual image was classified by 6 factors. Those were classic-casual, modern-casual, romantic-casual, vintage-casual, sexy-casual and active-casual images. 2. Classic-casual image was well-expressed by A silhouette, fit, chromatic and chromatic color coordinations and hard texture. Modern-casual image was well-expressed by H silhouette, fit and achromatic and achromatic color coordinations. Romantic-casual image was well-expressed by A silhouette, fit and soft texture. Vintage-casual image was well-expressed by H silhouette, combination apparel-fit, chromatic and chromatic color coordinations and fade-out texture. Sexy-casual image was well-expressed by fitted silhouette, tight apparel-fit and combination texture. 3. Casual image was positioned into mostly dynamic and modern on image scale.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.36
no.9
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pp.940-951
/
2012
This study evaluates the fit preference of the tailored jacket according to body types for 20's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point fit evaluation scale utilizing a wearer acceptability scale by Shen and Huck was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. This scale contained 23 items in three categories: front fit, back fit, and side fit. For each item, 5 responses from 'too tight' fit (1 point) to 'too loose' fit (5 point) were possible. The middle position for each fit criterion indicated a 'good' fit (3 point). The data were analyzed with a t-test using statistical program SPSS 17.0. According to the results, there were no significant differences ($p{\leq}.05$) between the real and virtual fit preference in total measurement items such as front collar, lapel and roll line, front shoulder slope, front armhole, front waist, abdomen, sideseam, hemline, front silhouette, side shoulder, side armhole, side sleeve width, side hip, side silhouette, back collar stand, upper back, back armhole, back waist, back hip, back silhouette except front bust, side waist, and back center back. The factor that caused a difference in the fit preference between the real and virtual fit evaluation was a specific body type such as Body Type A that indicated a small bust circumference and a big hip circumference.
The focus of this research was concerned with studying lower body type for Korean adult males. To understand the features of men's lower body required to organize an optimal sizing system for men's tight-fit slacks, information from the measuring values based on research on the physical standard of the nation(l997) were summarized; in addition, a factor analysis and a cluster analysis among multivariate analyses were performed. In terms of the need for appropriate fit in motorcycle wear, basic lower body parts applying to each item had to be taken into consideration to enhance sizing suitability. In the case of the length of the lower limbs, the inclusion of protectors plays an important role in affecting sizing. The factors related to the lower body were defined as follows: Factor 1 was the vertical dimension of the lower body, Factor 2 was the horizontal dimension of waist and hip, Factor 3 was the horizontal dimension of the lower limbs, Factor 4 was the length of hips, and Factor 5 was the ankle height. The lower body part was also divided into 3 clusters. Cluster 1 referred to the smallest stature and skeleton structure among the 3 body types. Cluster 2 represented the biggest stature, with a thin lower limbs body type. Cluster 3 represented a medium stature but with a large skeleton structure of lower limbs, a muscular type. In conclusion, Cluster 2 appeared most in the 20s age groups, but Cluster 3 appeared most in each of the 30s, 40's, and 50's age groups.
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