• 대한가정학회지
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• 제37권7호
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• pp.17-27
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• 1999

According to the design method for constructing the Korean Men's Jo-go-ri(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic pattern Jo-go-ri, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip(Dongjung) was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symmetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar(Kit) and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the two sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since there is no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial regulation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment, can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the basic pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the Jo-go-ri's girth, length end neck width is fixed at 70(72) degree. 2) The radius of the cone is sleeve length. 3) The bust girth calculation formula is B/4 + 2.5 cm. 4) The armhole formula is B/4 + 2.5cm. 5) The neck width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction{width of collar(Kit) + width of collar strip(Dongjung) to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius of sleeve length, that is an arc that exceeds the length of the Jo-go-ri's midsection.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.597-611
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to propose a design method for one-piece dress patterns with high body fitness through an appearance evaluation of one-piece dress patterns with the application of the 3D Virtual Clothing System known as i-designer. Measures consisted of an optical illusion effect in visual imagery and mutual influence according to a change in the length and princess line, in a silhouette of a one-piece dress. The data was assessed by a t-test and a multi-way ANOVA and factor analysis using SPSS 17.0. The results were as follows; The design of the study pattern was done by modifying the ease of the bust circumference, ease of the abdominal circumference, ease of the hip circumference, the position of the side seam line, and the appearance of horizontality in the hem line, which received a low evaluation in appearance evaluations of a one-piece dress pattern. As a result of analyzing the visual image according to a change in the length and princess line, in the form of a silhouette of a one-piece dress, four factors were selected; the whole-body optical illusion factor, the upper-body optical illusion factor, the bust optical illusion factor, and the lower-body optical illusion factor. As a result of analyzing the effect of the interaction in the visual image according to the design variables, the influence of the main effect was found to be great in each factor. In the upper-body optical illusion factor, a significant difference was not noted in the two-way interaction between the length and the princess line. However, the influence on three-way interaction among the length, princess line, and silhouette was significant.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.21-33
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• 1981

The purpose of this study was to develop a skirt pattern drafting method for korean women between the ages of $18\~24$ on the basis of their physical charcteristics which differs from those of other races in its size and figure. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. Ten types of convantional skirt patterns were collected and compared to determine the essential measuring items for skirt construction, and to discover what problems are involved. 2. Fourteen items of KIST measurement data were analysed for correlation coefficients, to establish representative items and independent ones. 3. Front waist length and back waist length were additionally measured for supplementary data. 4. A new skirt drafting method was developed based on the results of the pattern comparison and the data analysis. 5. A sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new method comparing it with the most widely accepted conventional pattern. An original rating scale was developed for the evaluation and an expert panel consisting of five members judged each shell from 12 subjects by random selection. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 17 items on the rating scale, 14 items showed significant differences (${\alpha}\leqq$0.01 or ${\alpha}\leqq$0.05) between the two, with the new pattern having better fit. The new pattern drafting method proved to be superior to the conventional one especially in the fitness at the back hip, dart length, side seam balance, and the ease for daily activities.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.3-10
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• 1995

This study focused on the reconstructional point of Shinan ship-wreck that was excavated between $1976\~1984$. The wreck, which might be sunk in the beginning of the 14th century, is regarded as a vessel of Yuan dynasty, China. This paper tried to find out some structural characteristics and principal dimensions for restoration. The Shinan shipwreck's structural characteristics are summarized as follow, 1) The Shinan shipwreck is formed V-shaped cross section with bar keel, 2) The vessel is divided 8 holds by 7 bulkheads. 3) The ship has flat type stem and transome stern. 4) A rabbeted clinker -built is basically adopted on planking joint. 5) A wooden sheathing, which means a sort of protecting board against marine insects, is covered outside of the main hull, 6) For making an watertight structure, oakum and lime mixtured t'ung-oil are used along the seam of planking and bulkhead. 7) A V-shaped deep water-way exists at both deck side. 8) The shipwreck is believed to have 2 masts at least. 9) The shiptimbers are classified as Chinese Red Pine(Pinus Massonina) which is mainly grown in the southern part of China. Considering as mentioned above the structural characteristics, Shinan ship-wreck could be classified as Chinese Fu-chuan type(복선형) of sea-going ship. The Shinan ship's principal dimensions which are calculated on the basis of Chinese traditional shipbuilding custom, are as follow, Length overall(L.O.A). : 34.80m Length water line(L.W.L) : 24.90m Breadth(B.max.) : 11m Breadth(B) : 10m Depth at keel line(H) : 3.75m Draft(D). : 3.15m Freeboard(F) : 0.65m Ratio, length/breadth(L/B). : 2.26 Ration, breadth/depth(B/D) : 3.5 Height of stem : 7m Height of stern : 10m Displacement : ab.340ton.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.223-237
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• 2015

This study is to compare the pattern making methods of men's jeans and to analyze sizes of parts while also evaluating the appearance and fit according to a 3D virtual garment simulation. Five types of patterns are selected for the analysis. For the appearance evaluation, the study conducted a virtual clothing simulation, created a perspective drawing, and applied Clothing pressure to each test outfit. First, according to the pattern comparisons, A and D had the shortest crotch length, while B had the longest; B had the narrowest crotch width, while C had the widest; C had the greatest waist circumference, and B had the smallest; C had the greatest knee and hem circumference, while E had the smallest. Second, according to the appearance evaluation, E pants had the highest rating overall for the waist, crotch, knee, and hem comfort; A pants had the highest rating for the yoke line end and placement; and C pants had the highest rating for the side seam line. According to the correlation analysis, ease of the waist, hips, hem and thighs were important factors (in that order) in determining the overall appearance of the jean pants.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권9호
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• pp.137-146
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• 2008

This study was conducted in order to spread out lower body 3D scan data of men in their twenties. The aim was to achieve slacks pattern with ease allowance through comparison with existing flat patterns. For conversion of 3D scan data into 20 pattern, reference lines were established by using Rapid Foam in 3D shape analysis software. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD were used to convert 20 pattern earned with straight posture of 3D scan data into slacks pattern by using Triangle Simplification & Runge-Kutta Method. In order to achieve this we needed to set a line 9cm below the hip line, to array vertex of each block to crease line while maintaining the horizontal line. And then we needed to set ease allowance in back crotch and to set waist circumference or hip circumference ease allowance in side seam of slacks. Results showed that long front crotch length can be achieved if 3D scan data is compared with 20 existing flat pattern. Slacks pattern that raise front crotch by about 1.5cm compared to back crotch and also possess ease allowance in back crotch area are great in appearance evaluation.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.789-795
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.202-209
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• 2018

This study examined thermo-physiological responses according to the design change of construction site working clothes (control (C) working clothes; prototype (P) working clothes). We measured rectal temperature, skin temperature, micro-climate within the clothes and sweat rate. In the evaluation of physiological functionality, based on pattern improvement in working clothes, P working clothes showed significantly lower rectal temperatures, trunk and thigh skin temperatures than C working clothes. It is preferable that rectal temperature should be kept low during work that is not favorable to an increase in body temperature. P working clothes were more physiologically functional than C working clothes. In addition, P working clothes showed significantly lower temperatures in the trunk and thigh parts in a micro climate temperature. We could explain that the side seam zipper on the pants and the gusset on armpit parts create an air permeability effect of lowering the temperature of micro-climate. Aggressive ventilation through the slit of the garment is an important factor for the restoration of the physiological function of the worker at rest between work. Sweat rate showed a higher level in C working clothes than P working clothes. When working in a hot environment, workwear needs to be designed so that the worker is not exposed to thermal stress. Therefore, it was evaluated that the P work clothes used in this study alleviated the physiological burdens of heat.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제13권7호
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

여성복에 있어서 09/10년 시즌에 가장 주목할 만한 특징은 파워 숄더 룩이다. 파워 숄더 룩은 단순히 패션니스타들에서만이 아니라 당당히 스트리트 패션의 하나로 자리 잡았으며 파워 숄더 룩의 50%이상을 차지하는 재킷이 여성복의 핵심 아이템의 하나로 부활하면서 재킷의 어깨 각도는 0도에서 30도 이상까지 다양하게 나타난다. 다양한 어깨 각도 중 10도, 15도, 20도의 형태가 70%이상을 차지하고 있으며 패턴의 형태는 몸판의 어깨선을 자연스럽게 올리고 확장한 어깨변형 패턴, 어깨선과 함께 소매산 부분을 절개한 소매산 변형 패턴, 몸판과 소매가 연결된 패턴이 주를 이루고 있다. 파워 숄더 패턴 전개는 어깨 각도가 높아질수록 각이 시작되는 점이 목옆점에 가깝게 하고 어깨끝점이 확장되어야 소매의 외관형태가 편안하고 피트성이 좋아진다. 어깨 변형의 경우 앞뒤 진동선의 시작점인 어깨점과 소매산의 정점 부분의 선이 완만하게 이어지도록 S라인형태를 유지하는 것이 가장 중요하며 소매산의 ease분량이 일반 재킷 소매보다 많아야 파워 숄더 실루엣이 자연스럽게 연출된다. 소매변형 패턴은 중심쪽 소매의 소매산 높이는 기본소매 소매산높이의 1.5cm를 외곽 소매분량으로 처리한 것을 고려하여 소매산 높이를 설정하고 어깨 각이 커질수록 외곽소매의 소매산 폭을 크게 함으로서 소매의 어깨점이 목옆점 방향으로 휘지 않고 각이 선 파워 숄더가 완성된다. 소매변형과 소매와 몸판연결 패턴의 경우 어깨점과 상완이 연결되는 부분에 충분한 여유가 필요하며 어깨각도도 다른 형태에 비해 상대적으로 낮아 보인다. 이와 같이 파워 숄더 재킷 패턴은 패턴 제작시 디자인적인 요소를 충분히 감안한 패턴 설계와 함께 소매의 달림선 위치, 어깨너비, 어개 높이 확장량, 소매통의 여유량 등을 고려하여 제작하는 것이 바람직하다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.269-279
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• 2005

Okso, Keun Seob($1671\sim1759$) was descended from a noble family of Noreun(노론) and learned from his uncle, Keun Sang-ha who is a disciple of Song Si-Yeol, Kim Chang-hyeub and Kim Chang-heub. His $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$ remains in the form of a transcription or a lithographic printing, and documents on 'Hakchangeui' are recorded in jabeui(잡의), Euijedogi(의제도기), which is a part of it. He left Seoul in 1714, settled in Chungpung, journeyed to many places, including the Hwang river area and Jecheon and led a literary and artistic life as Sadaebu(사대부), which was written in a collection of his works where the record about 'Hakchangeui', the most suitable clothes for the life of a retired scholar remains today to express one part of his life. This study introduces data about Hakchangeui written in $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$, pursues the reason why Okso, Keun Seob told about it and intends to embody the figure of Hakchangeui based on the system, measure, material, and sewing method according to the records in a collection. Hakchaneui described in $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$ reveals a structure that is different from old Hakchaneui, showing characteristics like the following. It is a Sadaebu's costume for field amusement in which the length of a former part is longer than that of a later part and the side seam of a garment rips. Black Yeon is attached to the white texture. Yeon widths of Git(collar), Sugu and Gil are varied, respectively. Yeon's figure attached to Gil and Somaejindong is a mountain. Git is Bangryeong and link parts between Git and Gil is connected with Sangchim. This Hakchangeui is considered to playas a gown because it has no string or support to adjust his dress. Especially we can identify that Hwayanggun(화양건) was used in this Hakchangeui.