• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.127-140
• /
• 1998

A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.

• Fire Science and Engineering
• /
• v.21 no.1 s.65
• /
• pp.98-105
• /
• 2007

On this study, we verified the possibilities of making T-branch pipe forming with carbon steel pipes and stainless steel pipes used by common FEM Program(ABAQUS) which are widely used in the fire protection and building construction fields. In this kind of T-branch pipe forming works, in principle, the seamless pipe is used. If the pipe has the seam, the forming face must be the opposite side of the seam. The forming works are carried out by a truncated cone shaped plug. We found that the face slope and the length of plug are the most important factor in pipe forming. Based on the results of forming analyses, we proposed the minimum height and thickness of pipe branch forming.

• Geomechanics and Engineering
• /
• v.29 no.6
• /
• pp.697-706
• /
• 2022

In order to explore the stable anchoring conditions of coal side under the mining disturbance of soft section coal pillar in Wangcun Coal Mine of Chenghe Mining Area, the distribution model of the anchoring support pressure at the coal pillar side was established, using the strain-softening characteristics of the coal to study the distribution law of anchoring coal side support pressure. The analytical solution for the reinforcement anchorage stress in the coal pillar side was derived with the inelastic state mechanical model. The results show that the deformation angle of the roadway side and roof increases with the roof subsidence due to the mining influence at the adjacent working face, the plastic deformation zone extends to the depth of the coal side, and the increase of anchorage stress can effectively control the roof subsidence and further deterioration of plastic zone. The roadway height and the peak support pressure have a certain influence on the anchorage stress, the required anchorage stress of the coal side rises with the roadway height and the peak support pressure. The required anchorage stress of the coal pillar side decreases as the cohesion between the coal seam and the roof and floor and the anchor length increases. Then, applied the research result to Wangcun coal mine in Chenghe mining area, the design of anchor cable reinforcement support was proposed for the section of coal pillars side that has been anchored and deformed, which achieved great results and effectively controlled the convergence and deformation of the side, providing a safety guarantee for the roadway excavation and mining.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.169-181
• /
• 2016

This study analyzed the characteristics and patterns of men's drawers panties to get basic data for their design. For this, drawers panties in 7 different brands (4: domestic brands, 3: imported brands) in terms of a front-center shape were collected, and the shape of men's drawers panties, characteristics of the materials, dimensions & type of patterns by the part and front-center patterns were analyzed. The study results found the followings: First, in terms of the shape of men's drawers panties, the front-center part were designed to rest the penis and scrotum in a natural and comfortable manner without a pee slit. They were seamless on the sides except for one product with side seams. Second, the drawer panties were made of elastic polyurethane materials. Specifically, domestic brand items used warm, elastic and durable nylon, polyester and rayon and polyurethanes while imported brands were mostly made of absorbent and sanitary polyurethanes. Third, regarding a size of drawer panties by part, imported brands were large in waist circumference. In terms of waist breadth at the front center, there was difference depending on an oval type. In addition, the front length at the front center differed by product, revealing difference in three-dimensional effect at the front center. The side length also differed greatly by product, which means that there might be a great difference in wear comfort. Fourth, in terms of the patterns of men's drawers panties, there was difference in side seams, center back seam and front-center patterns. Among a total of 7 products, only one product had side seams, and center back seams were found in two products only. Fifth, in terms of front-center patterns, the drawer panties can be divided into three types, creating three-dimensional effect not to give any pressure on the crotch: i) the cutting line only at the bottom of the front center part where the penis is rested, ii) puff created at the front center by adding a transverse line to the center line, iii) cutting transverse line to separate the penis from the testicles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.3
• /
• pp.425-431
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to observe the changes of skirt length of knitted flare skirts when the seamless test garments were made which had been having full shape while being knitted and to change and amend the challenges in advance when those were knitted. For this study, I made 6 kinds of knitted test garments of wool 100% yarn with seamless knitting machine, which differed from each other by skirt angles ($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) and gauges (7G, 12G, 15G), and then I measured deflection changes of their length for 2 weeks. Findings and conclusions drawn from this study were as follows: First, the side seam line of full shape hecame somewhat longer than center. Second, 7G and $180^{\circ}$ knitted flare skirt showed the biggest length deflection changes. Third, there was no difference at rear waist deflection changes between front pattern and rear. Fourth, it was difficult to control the tensions of right and left strings as to the knitting directions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.19 no.3
• /
• pp.21-32
• /
• 1981

Clothing must have the individual beauty and the function that one can do one's body movement freely. therefore, from the human engineering view point, the exact measurement of the human body and the analysis of it's results must be applied to clothing because the arm works most. In this study, the skin surface of arm was investigated by shell made of Alginate of each movement. And by sometic method the rate of expansion and contraction of each section, inter-relation among the bust girth, axillary arm girth and scye girth and between the shoulder length right and the under axilla waist length were calculate4d. With these results, cap height, breadth of a sleeve and arm hole girth of existing sleeve pattern have been compared and analysed. The results are as follows; 1) According to the developmental figures of shell, the whole area change was small but that of shape was remarkable in M 4, 9, 13. The change of the Block 1 was particular. 2) Over arm length was contracted in all movements except M6 and under arm length expanded. The changes of sections a, b, c are large, while those of sections d, e are small. 3) In terms of latitudes, change of fore-arm region was small. The rate of scye girth varied from 14.3% of M13 to-5.6% of M2. The breadth of a sleeve expanded in all movements, and especially the front region expanded more than the back. 4) The relation between the shoulder length right and under axilla waist length, in all occasions, was contracted mutually, and one contracted, the other expanded. Therefore, in clothing construction when we consider the function of the arm it is better to widen the arm hole and the breadth of a sleeve at the same time than no widen the shoulder length by lowering the upper part of the upper side seam line.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.2 no.2
• /
• pp.55-79
• /
• 2000

This study is the design research for the practical use of Casual Hanbok. The conclusion of basic research for Casual Hanbok design reads as follows. Today's college women are fairly positive to the practical use of Casual Hanbok. Especially, they are strongly interested in the new design and have the active intention to wear it on actually. The concrete design of every parts of Casual Hanbok which is wanted by college women is as follows. Firstly, college women like well matched two-piece dress style in colors. And they want to decide the coloration independently than to follow the traditional coloration passively. Secondly, according to the design of jacket, sometimes they like the presence of a collar, a collar strip, a gore etc. and at other times they like absence of them. Thirdly, the side line of jacket they like and the seam line of sleeve they like is smoothly curved one and the adjusting means they like is a fancy button. Fourthly, the length of jacket they like reaches to their waist and the width of an armhole they like must be convenient for moving of arm. Fifthly, one out of two college women likes mixed spinning fabrics as material for jacket, skirt, pants. In the other hand, one out of five college women likes cotton. Sixthly, the skirt style they like is A ­line one having from two to four gathers on the waist and the length of skirt they like reaches to their ankle or calf of the leg. Seventhly, the pants style they like is the western style but the hem line of pants is the korean traditional pants style.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.30 no.3
• /
• pp.63-77
• /
• 1992

The purpose of this study is to improve clothing construction by analyzing form variation of upper trunk & upper arms with the use of plaster cast. Experimental research was performed by plaster gypsum method. The subjects were males between age 21 and 25, classified Standard somatotype by their bust size and Rorher Index. Arm movements were consisted of 5 types(0$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$, 135$^{\circ}$, 180$^{\circ}$) to each vertical motion in front. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation, repeated mesure design. The result obtained from this study were as follows; 1. As a result of investigating into the rate of the expantion and contraction of basic body-surfact-lines, the side seam length showed the maxium rate of expantion in 180$^{\circ}$ degrees, the shoulder length showed the maxium contraction in the same degrees. 2. The variation of the upper part of the body form by increasing the upper limb motions, shoulder point was moved to be the inside or upside. And the anterior armfit point, posterior armfit point and armfit point were moved to upside. The form of the armhole-line in Drafts of a body surface was differently changed by increasing the movements. 3. Increasing the upper limb motions, the height of sleeve cap decresed and width of the sleeve decreased but girths of the sleeve cap was not show consistant change.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.34 no.4
• /
• pp.249-263
• /
• 1996

According to the design method for constructing the G gori(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic G gori, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the tow sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since th-ere in no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial requlation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the G gori's girth, length and neck width is fixed at 70 degrees. 2) The radius of the cone is B/2. 3) The calculation formula is B/4 + 1.5cm 4) The armhole formula is B/4, the same as in the basic method. 5) The width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction(width of collar + width of collar strip)to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius (B/2), that is an arc that exceeds the length of the G gori's midsection; the component ratio of this length to the collar junction is accordingly 13:5. 8) The curve frame length of the back midsection is an arc exceeding B/4(the armhole line). 9) The ratio of the sleeve opening calculation formula to the armhole length is 8:5, forming an arc with the midsection length.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.5
• /
• pp.35-50
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.