• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.429-440
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• 2004

The age after the French Revolution was the period of experiment and change in dress for both men and women. Directly after the close of the Reign of Terror, Directoire(1795-1799) became the extreme fashion known as incroyables and merveilleuses which mean 'impossible' or 'unimaginable'. This study aimed to investigate the sociocultural phenomena which affect to clothing change through the French Revolution period and clothing analysis of incroyables and merveillues. Furthermore, this study will contribute to establishing the theory of clothing culture and help predicting clothing change in accordance with social circumstances. Incroyables and merveilleuses represent extreme opposites in sleekness of attire and grooming. Incroyables required an unkempt, wrinkled appearance and a contrived carelessness. Merveilleuseses show the exaggerated transparency and simplicity in the fashions of female. Also, they devoted to the worship of the antique and the masculine fashions. This fashion madness appeared as the result of revolutionary social change. Their costume showed characteristics of the transition period between French Revolution and Classic period. However, they simply carried existing tendencies to the point of caricature by an enthusiastic overstatement.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.551-561
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• 2003

The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.541-550
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• 2003

This study is to research the costume of Korean envoys of the Chosun dynasty. The research results follow. The costume of three envoys including senior envoys and vice envoys is by, its different kinds, Gwandae, Jobok, Gongbok, and Pyongbok. According to the different purposes of occasions, these dresses were classified as the dress for ceremonies, the dress for banquets, and the dress for travel. For the ceremonial purpose, Gongbok and Jobok were mostly used. Gongbok was chosen when the envoys entered into the major cities or when they had ceremonies with the lord of the manor. The envoys wore Jobok for important ceremonies such as when receiving or presenting credentials or when entering into Chusima. For travel costume, Pyonbok of nobleman was used. The envoys wore Pyonbok during journey but they changed into Gongbok when they entered into the major cities such as Osaka or Kyoto in order to show their diplomatic etiquettes as representatives of the Chosun dynasty. And for the banquets, they wore Gongbok for official banquet and Pyongbok for private banquet. These findings of the different dress for different occasion indicate that there was a strict dress code according to the occasions and purposes.

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

Research into the ancient dyeing and weaving culture is of critical importance to the fact that they constitute an integral part of the Korean costume. Due to the absence of the originals reflecting ancient costume cultures, it is difficult to figure out what the dyeing and weaving culture was like in ancient times. Because of limited visual materials available from the wall paintings of ancient tombs, studies conducted so far concerning the costume culture for the Goguryeo have focused on visual elements such as shape, structure, and type. As a result, research into ancient Korean dyeing and weaving cultures hasn't been properly made. Thanks to the presence of both some dyeing fabric originals from Goguryeo's neighboring countries and some visual materials like the wall paintings of the Goguryeo, it may be possible to obtain some clues to the dyeing and weaving culture. The dotted Pattern costumes were selected such as Muyongchong, No. 1 Jangcheon Tomb, Gakjeochong, Samsilchong, Ssangyeongchong, Susanri Tomb. According to a book titled ‘Hanwon’, the Goguryeo people manufactured fabrics in such a way that resist-dyed spots produced elaborate patterns over the purple fabric. It can be safely said that such dot patterns were produced by means of dyeing rather than weaving, because identical patterns aren’t well produced by means of painting and embroidery. Considering Goguryeo’s natural features, the dot patterns mentioned in historical literatures are thought to have been produced using animal’s skin. However, there is highest possibility that the dot Patterns were Produced using tie-resist dyeing or wax-resist dyeing techniques. With respect to the dyeing and weaving culture for the Goguryeo, one must refer to neighboring countries’ dyeing and weaving environments, given that the Goguryeo had engaged substantial cultural exchanges with China.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.633-647
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to observe the symbolic meaning and the values of the costume which express bisexuality through the definition from a culture point of view. The research method is to contemplate the documentary records such as world history, art history and clothing history, and to recognize the symbolic meaning of a bisexuality in modern fashion design. A definition the word´man and woman´restricted the human being for a long time. This restrict is enforced by the costume, but this traditional fixed idea is retarded by the liberal sense of the human being and the design expresses a sex ambiguity This study inspects the sex ambiguity and the meaning of that through a cultural background and a historical costume. The results are as follows: The first, the cultural background about bisexuality is classified into the etymological point, the mythologic point. the art and philosophical point, the political and economic background, the mass media, and the custome and the regulation. A bisexuality is a concept in existence from ancient times. we have an open-minded attitude about bisexuality in the present than the past. The second, the function of costume is sex classification before 20th century, but since 20th century the costume expresses sex ambiguity. The third, the symbols of the bisexuality are the interminacy, the unity and the dismantling. The costume which expresses bisexuality means coexistence of male sex and female sex. this is a kind of motion to embody a ideal body of the human being. This study makes a contribution to recognize the dignity of human body and to understand the phenomenon of modern society.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.203-223
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• 1994

This study intends to look through the development of female costume during the 100 years after the flowering time. By refocusing on the flow the Korean female costume, this study present representative costume style of that time and find out the fashion cycles. For this purpose, the clothes during the 100 years (from 1890 to 1993) were observed and changes of female costume, hair style and shoes were observed. Literature review and content analysis method used. The results of this study are as follows : For Korean costume, there were little changes in basic styles and only the jacket and skirt lengths were changed. After 1960s, as modernization of socio-cultural aspects were processed, Korean costume became formalized and structure of costume was duplicated. In the 1960's mint skirts and pantalons won popularity. In the 1970's , diverse modes including mini, midi, maxi, pantalon, hot pants appeared, and especially the jeans were popular. In the 1980's big & loose silhouette was in fashion in the beginning, and fit & flare silhouette later in the decade. In the 1990's styles emphasizing natural feminity came in fashion. In addition, by analyzing the development of female costume styles of Korea, Fashion cycles were found, expecially in the phenomenon of 70's styles repeating in the 90's.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.988-1002
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• 1997

The objectives of this study are to consider about the research of a costume and a discussion about a system of costume by practical science scholar in the late period of Chosun Dynasty. The result are descrived as follows: 1. The purpose that practical sciellce scholars researched a costulne was not only the intellectual research but also to make a basis in order to reform a uncorrected costume's system. Their study had two point. The one was the investigating research about the origin and change of the costume. The other was the study about a formation of costume. 2. The practical science scholars determined the directions to reform a wrong costumes' system on the basis of the research about a costume. They had three directions. Those were a conservatism, a rationalism to think the realities of life and a reformation. 3. The practical science scholars' thinking was to pursue the origin form and the practical use. This two axis show the direction to improve our costulne's culture now a day.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.826-834
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• 2003

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture and a phase of the cloths in the relationship of the Chosun dynasty, by considering the exported goods from the Chosun dynasty of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the Chosun dynasty-Japan relationship in the 15th and 16th. The research findings, by analyzing various literatures and related documents, follow. The research results are as follow. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. The imported goods were somok, peppers, drug-stuffs, gold, bronze, sulfur, etc. The exported goods were books and cloths, such as hemp cloths, cotton cloths, silk, etc. The majority of exported goods was cloths, particularly cotton cloths. Meanwhile, in the 15th and the 16th century, with expanding of active trade towards Japan, the amount of export increased rapidly. As a result of the increase of exporting cotton cloths, the raw cottons production was increased and cotton cloth manufacturing was developed. However, it also expanded a dual structure of cotton cloths between the cotton cloths for exports and the cotton cloths for domestic markets. This dual structure of cotton cloth was lead to the deterioration of cotton cloths and had an effect on the price increases of domestic markets.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.655-663
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• 2012

Due to increased interest in character costumes, the field of animation character costume design is gradually developing into a specialized domain. The costume-making process for animation characters presents many differences from the costume-making process for regular apparel. However, there remains insufficient research on the actual process of making the character costumes used in stop motion videos both in Korea and abroad. The purpose of this study is to establish a costume design process for animation characters. Furthermore, this study presents a case study on the costume planning and making process for 3D stop motion animation characters. The character costume-making process was segmentalized into the following stages: character analysis stage, character modeling stage, and character costume making stage. In the character analysis stage, the investigator analyzed the character's movements, designed the character images, and analyzed the movements and motions of the animation characters. After completing character modeling, this study proposed a method for making the character costume. The style of the character costume was designed, and the structural design reflected the position and size of joints as well as the angle of movements. The patterns of the character costume were produced through dimensional tailoring after measuring the body size of the character. Afterward, the costume was completed after passing through the fitting and revision stages. The clothing material was selected to fit the colors and feelings shown in the illustration. To complete the costume after comparing it with the initial illustration, it was revised based on the assessment of its volume and overall atmosphere.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.593-603
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to study the Central Asian costumes($1{\sim}7C$) and develop new design items and suggest new brand launching. Korean apparel industry has been suffering from imbalance of supply and demand caused by the sagging economy and too many apparel companies. Due to the several years of recession, clothing consumption decreased and foreign brand's market share got bigger. As a result, managing a company became difficult and it is time for Korean apparel industry to enter the global market. We need a brand with new image and design that has big potential of purchasing power not only in Korea but also in China, and furthermore in global market. But even nearby Chinese market already became very competitive. One way of approaching Chinese fashion market is to find something special, for example, their historical background. Central Asian culture and costumes, a part of China, has both Eastern and Western culture. No other apparel industry had interest in the Central Asian costumes yet. Therefore, through their costume, a fresh design idea can be suggested.