• Title/Summary/Keyword: Textiles pattern

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Textile Design for Baby using the myth of Buldoje (불도제의 신화를 이용한 유아용 텍스타일 디자인)

  • Kim, Hyun-Mi;Jang, Ae-Ran
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.2
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    • pp.144-156
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    • 2015
  • This research aims to develop textile patterns using mythical motives based on Buldoje in the Jeju myth. this textile design is not only decoration effect by filling the space, but also plays the original role of a pattern by expressing its symbolic meaning. The research methods are as follows: 1) Using integral analysis on materials related to the myth of Jeju and Gime used in Buldoje Gut, where Halmangbonpuli story is performed to set formative elements for textile design and their meanings; 2) Designing motive by composing formative elements; 3) Coloring properly; and 4) Layout motives. Adobe CS5 (Photoshop, Illustrator) and TexPro, a design CAD program, were used for textile design. Motives were combined in a various ways. Two-directional, four-directional, set, rotating, toss layout techniques, which are frequently used in apparel design and able to reduce cloth use, were used in developing patterns. Coloring methods including tone-in-tone and Faux camaieu were used to deliver coherence and soft effects. Developed textile design symbolizes the desire for the conception of a child, birth, and health, so it is made on baby clothes. In doing so, the plan for development of a fashion-cultural product applying Jeju myth symbol is suggested.

A Study on the Historical Research of the Leading Costume in 'Seodong Tale' ('서동설화'에 등장하는 주요 인물 복식 고증)

  • Kim, Moon-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.7
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    • pp.135-151
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to research the costume styles during the Silla(新羅), and Paekje dynasty[百濟] in 'Seodong tale'. In those days, costume form, color, pattern, and ornaments played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The Methodology of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in 'Seodong tale' through the antique records and tombs bequests and expressing the clothing of the appearance people in the picture. This study is about the costume styles representing the differences in social status during the Silla and Baekje dynasty in 'Seodong tale'. Sedong wore 'Heug Geon(黑巾)' and 'Yu', 'Ko(袴)'. The king of Silla, Jinpyung wore Tree and Antler-typed Diadem and 'Po(袍)' with 'GwaDae(銙帶)' and Earrings, Necklaces, Rings. The servant of Baekje wore 'Eunmhwakwansik[silver crown]' and 'Jangyu' bound the silver belt and 'Ko'. Silla Princess of the court, Seonhwa wore Feathered Trim with Conical hat, and 'Yu' bound the belt and 'SangdongChima' and Earrings, Necklaces, Bracelets, Rings. Sedong's mother's hair style was 'Eonjeunmeori' and wore 'Yu' and 'Ko'. The queen of Baeje, Seonhwa wore 'Keumhwasik[Gold crown]', and 'Po' bound the belt and Earrings, Necklaces, Bracelets.

The Present Situations of the Apparel CAD Education in Clothing Departments in Domestic Colleges (국내 의류학분야 학과의 어패럴CAD 교육현황)

  • Kim, Su-Hyun;Lee, Song-Ja
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.26-33
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    • 1999
  • Nowadays the Apparel CAD is required in the clothing industries. So many domestic Apparel education institutions are interested in the Apparel CAD education. By investigating the present Apparel CAD education situations in college, the writer shows some data that are helpful to solve the problems in these parts. The purpose of this study is to give some helps in teaching the Apparel CAD in college. The results of this study are as followings, as the use of CAD systems is growing in the clothing industries, many colleges are concerned with the Apparel CAD. As a result, many colleges equip the Apparel CAD systems and the Apparel CAD is taught as special lectures, the part of other courses or regular course in many colleges. Apparel CAD should be taught as a regular course in colleges. And it should be taught systematically with Design CAD and Pattern CAD. But it is taught limitedly as special lectures, the part of other courses and post graduate studies. So it is impossible to educate the students professionally. As many colleges the CAD equipments are not opened to the students, the student's use of CAD systems are limited, so educational environment needs to improve to use CAD systems freely.

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Investigation on the Shoulder Shapes between Korean and American Women Age over 55 for Apparel (장·노년층 여성의 의복제작을 위한 어깨형태 연구 - 한국인과 미국인의 비교 -)

  • Choi, Mee-Sung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.5 no.3
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    • pp.260-266
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    • 2003
  • The objective of this study is to compare the general body measurements and shoulder shapes of Korean and American elderly women to supply basic data for the apparel design. The anthropometrics data was collected including both direct and indirect measurements of 283 women over the age of 55 in Korean and the American women. The statistical methods used for the analysis of measurement data are the T-test, Exploratory data analysis, ANOVA and Duncan-test respectively. The results of the T-test indicated that there is a significant difference in the 14 body measurement items except of waist circumference. The results of exploratory data analysis, an independent relationship between shoulder slope angle and forward shoulder roll of Korean women. On the other hand, there is a dependent relationship that the bigger shoulder slope and forward shoulder roll with wide cross back shoulder of American women. Comparison of mean among the three different age groups, aged 55~59 group shows significant differences in the value of difference between cross back shoulders and horizontal shoulder width. This finding indicates that the wide and forward roll shoulder needs to special pattern making like ease amount and curvature for fit and comfort for women's apparel.

The Purchase Tendencies According to Male Golfer's Life Style - Focused on Gyeongnam - (남성 골퍼의 라이프스타일에 따른 구매 성향 - 경남지역을 대상으로 -)

  • Kim, Ju-Ae;Lee, Youn-Hee;Jang, Jeong-Ah
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.3 no.2 s.2
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    • pp.65-71
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    • 2005
  • The aim of this research is to investigate the demographic characteristics of the purchase tendencies and shopping trends amongst female golfers and how these are influenced by their life style and to analyse their selection criteria for purchases of golf-related items. The research methodology was through the use of questionnaires, completed by female golfers in Gyeongnam. The results are as follows: life style trends of male golfers were analysed to be categorized into one of the following: the shopping-addicted, fashion-conscious, rationalist and family oriented spenders. The characteristics of these categories are described as one of the following: utilitarian-complacent, rationalist, self-worshipping, inconsiderate. The demographic characteristics showed notable variations only in age differences. The obtained results show that the influences of the variables are minimal and there was no notable correlation. Significant differences were observed from one life style group to another, in selection criteria for purchase, which mainly depended on style, design, colour, pattern, designer-label, co-ordinated looks, similarity, ease of maintenance and functionality. Comparisons were made between the previously categorized life-style-groups and notable differences were present in such characteristics as ostentatious, trendy, aesthetically pleasing and functional.

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Study on Sleeve Patterns of Men's Jackets from 17C to 19C (17세기$\sim$19세기 남성 재킷류의 소매패턴 연구)

  • Park, Sang-Hee;Choi, Jeong-Wook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.10 no.2
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    • pp.105-115
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    • 2008
  • Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

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A Study on the Development of Upcycling Textile Design and Digital 3D Utilization for the Sustainable Fashion Industry (지속가능한 패션산업을 위한 업사이클링 텍스타일디자인 개발과 디지털 3D 활용 연구)

  • Mikyoung Kim
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.27 no.5
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    • pp.108-120
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    • 2023
  • Recently, interest in eco-friendliness and sustainability has been increasing due to the rapid progress of fast fashion and the crisis of sudden environmental changes after COVID-19. This study aims to develop upcycling textiles and express product design using digital 3D to realize a sustainable fashion industry and present environmental aspects, diversity, creativity, and new directions in fashion industry design. The research method is to develop and pattern upcycling textile designs by applying weaving techniques with waste materials. It uses the developed upcycling textile design in digital 3D to incorporate it into clothing fashion and shows the utility and practicality of upcycling textile design. As a result of the study, the appearance is realistic when outputting DTP of upcycling textile design. It endures without loosening or tearing, making it a durable and creatively expressive fashion item. Texpro 3D mapping reduces the time and cost of making actual sample fabric. Upcycling textile design and 3D CLO virtual clothing are combined to produce actual clothing samples, resulting in zero waste reduction due to cutting and sewing. This study anticipates actively and continuously advancing the development of upcycling textile design and digital 3D in terms of ethics and the environment.

A Study on the Women's Bodysuit Sleeve Block Construction Using Stretch fabrics (Stretch 소재를 사용한 여성용 Bodysuit Sleeve 원형 설계에 관한 연구)

  • Park Gin-Ah
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.29 no.12 s.148
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    • pp.1535-1545
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    • 2005
  • The study aimed firstly, to develop the women's bodysuit sleeve block construction method adopting the appropriate pattern reduction rates according to the fabric stretch property. Secondly, the details applied to the bodysuit sleeve block drafting (Dr the educational and industrial usage were proposed. For these, several distinguishing bodysuit sleeve pattern making methods(i.e. Joseph-Armstrong: T1, Shoben & Ward: T2, Esmod: T3 and Mixed Joseph-Armstrong: T4) were analyzed and divided into two categories that adopt 1) the equally (i.e., T1) and 2) the differently(i.e., T2, T3 & T4) distributed front and back armhole length measurements. Women's sleeve samples were made for the research using the same stretch fabric($50\%\;and\; 70\%$ in wale and course each) to the previous research. A group comprising 5 relevant experts evaluated the fit and comfort features of the samples. Experiments analyzed the appearance of sleeve samples focused on total 13 evaluation parts(including the front/side/back fit tolerance, sleeve centre line, sleeve length, appropriateness of the sleeve appearance balanced with the bodysuit and etc.): and performed the comfort test evaluating three kinds(vertical-front/vertical-side/ horizontal) of arm movements. The most appropriate bodysuit sleeve to fulfil the original aims of the study was suggested. The findings and suggestions throughout the study were: 1) the measurements and required reduction rates for the bodysuit sleeve block developed: outer sleeve length (with 1.0 RR), crown height(with 0.7 RR), front and back armhole lengths measured on the bodysuit blocks ($0\%$ ease amount), elbow width(0.9/0.95 RR), wrist girth measurements(from $12\%\;to\;18\%$ tolerances can be given to): and 2) the differently distributed front and back armhole length measurements resulted in the better fit and comfort through the research.

Ch'ing Dragon Robes (청조의 용포소고)

  • 박춘순;김재임
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.3
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    • pp.59-72
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    • 2000
  • Dragon robe was defined as a robe on which the principal design consisted of dragon. Dragon patterns have been used on princess robes during T'and Dynasty. In Sung, Dragon-figured robes seem to have an Imperial prerogative. Yuan took over the use of robes with dragons patterns as a definite institition. Ming tried to reject all Yuan innovations, the dragon robe was retained as an unofficial court costume. The Emperor's semiformal robes which at first had four dragon medallions, later had twelve along with the 12 Symbols(십이장문). As Ch'ing dragon robes were only intended fro semiformal use. The Later Ch'ing robes date from after 1719, when the Ch'ien-lung(건륭) introduced 12 Symbols on Ch'ing robes. The Ch'ien-lung laws were disobeyed, notably the ones that specified the number of claws on the dragons. THe Emperor's dragon robe, lung-p'ao, (용포) was described as bright yellow in color, having four slits and horsefoof cuffs. The basic pattern consisted of nin dragons, in addition it had 12 Symbols. The elaborate textile techniques reached their peak in Ch'ing Dynasty-with its Weaving and Dyeing Office in Peking, and this factories at Hangchow(항주), Soochow(소주), and Naking(남경) -helps to explain why the decay of the Ch'ing bureaucracy hastended the decline of dragon robes. In the Ch'ing Dynasty tow terms were used for dragon robe, depending on the number of claws on the dragons. Those with five-clawed dragons were called lung-p'ao, while those with four-clawed dragons were called mang-p'ao(망포). The Court felt compelled to take corrective meausres. It decreeed that Ninisters of State and other officials, who had been bestowed five-clawed lung dragons, must take out one claw. Finally, the sale of ranks and the attendant privilege of wearing dragon robes gradually increased during the 18 th century, reaching its height in the 19 th century, Finally, after the Taiping Rebellion, when the Imperial Treasury was depleted by the wholesale destruction of revenue-producing lands, the Chinese government came to depend on such sales as an important source of revenue and the practice became even more widespread. The ensuing mass production of dragon robes, and the necessity of conforming to the fairly rigid basic pattern established in 1759, resulted in marked deterioration of workmanship, and a comparative monotony of decoration. The patterns on the dragon robes slight changes continued to be made in the ways of representign them. The li shui (입수) portion at the base of the robe become inreasingly wider throughout the 19th century. The background became cluttered with symbols of good fortune, scattered among the clouds and waves. As a result of all this extraneous decoration, the dragons were so crowded that they had to shrink back into the small size that they had originally occupied in the medallons. Kuang-hsu(광저) was a long one, allowing time for the manufacture of numerous robes. Also, it would seem likely that Occidental museums and collections would have a considerable number of his robes, in view of the widespread looting of his palaces during the Allied occupation of Peking in 1900, and the frequent sales of Late Ch'ing imperial textiles by destitute Manchu courtiers in the '20's.

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A Study of the Personal Ornaments and Make-up of Maroccan (모로코인(人)의 장신구(裝身具)와 화장(化粧)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Soon-Hong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.15-34
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    • 2001
  • Ornaments are accessories for the decoration of the body or dress. They aren't unavoidably required one, but serve to make one's dress perfect as decorative industrial art objects. In Morocco, ornaments were initially used as a sign of social position or the class or an incantatory symbol. In effect, they were originally employed to adjust one's dress, not just for decoration, and they were of use for household economy. Gold, silver and handcraft available for exchange were a means of increasing one's property and an indication of social standing and wealth. In particular, the dress and jewelry of a bride was a measure of her family's wealth, regarded as a symbol of her chastity and value. The ornaments symbolically back up people's faith in supernatural power, and their real value is based on implicit form or way of decoration, not the external shape. Specifically, there is a tendency to use the form of animal as a protector, not one to frighten people. In the artistic tradition of Morocco, fish pattern stands for water and rain, and eagle and bird are considered to be related to fate. Scorpion and lizard are depicted as an inquirer of sun, and snake is a symbol of abundance and sexual instinct, being viewed to have an ability to cure disease. Turtle pattern is a symbol of saint because it protects one from the evil. The ornaments are made of gold, silver, amber, clam, garnet, glass, nielle, enamel, glaze, coral or tree, and symbolic patterns are used, including hand(a symbol of five numerals), turtle, lizard, scorpion, eye, triangle, bird and eggs. They are very big and diverse, being categorized into ornaments for the head or the chest, neckless, fibula, earring, bracelet and ring. For Moroccans, make-up is a sort of instinctive behavior to meet aesthetic and sexual desire. They also wear make-up for practical purpose of protection, intentionally inflict a wound on the skin for ceremonial or religious purpose, paint the skin with pigment, or have the part of the body tattooed for incantatory purpose. All this actions are regarded as make-up. The raw material of cosmetics is aker, a vegetable dye. They get the lips or cheeks turn red and paint eyebrows with yellow saffran powder to have a bad devil lose its strength. Tattooing is mainly done by women and viewed as a sign of their value or social organization they belong to. Sometimes that is used to represent a woman's being old enough to marry or getting married already or the frequency of marriage. Besides, tattoo is believed to prevent or remedy loose bowels or cough, depending on its location or pattern, and they often change tattoo according to the change of beauty art.

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