• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.8
• /
• pp.1-18
• /
• 2012

The purpose of the study was to offer in-depth understanding of the women's wear research trend in South Korea and thus to provide insights from the findings throughout the study to set appropriate directions for further development of women's wear related researches in the clothing and textile study area. The study considered research papers published by the 6 major apparel related journals listed on the KCI(Korea Citation Index) i.e. journals of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles(KSCT), the Korean Society of Costume(KSC), the Costume Culture Association (CCA), the Korean Society of Fashion Business(KSFB), the Korean Home Economics Association (KHEA) and the Korean Society for Clothing Industry(KSCI). A total of 380 research papers that were related with women's wear published from 2001 to 2010 were selected for the study and analyzed in the form of descriptive statistics using the SPSS Software ver. 18.0. The analysis was categorized according to the journals, years and research theme. The research themes were divided into various categories such as, clothing construction, textile science, fashion aesthetics and design, costume history and culture, apparel psychology and fashion marketing. The results derived from the research were: (1) the ratio of the research papers on the women's wear to the total papers published from 2001 to 2010 by the 6 subject journals was 380 to 6,815, i.e. 5.6% of the total papers; (2) journal of KSCT published the most women's wear research papers (N=149, 39.2%) and then the rest in order were the journal of CCA (N=69, 18.2%), the journal of KSC (N=68, 17.9%), the journal of KSFB (N=52, 13.7%), the journal of KHEA (N=39, 10.3%) and the journal of KSCI (N=3, 0.7%); (3) the proportions of the research themes for the women's wear study were in the order of the case study in marketing (N=135, 35.5%), body measurements and sizing systems in clothing construction (N=88, 23.2%), fashion design and aesthetics (N=83, 21.8%), pattern-making (N=63, 16.6%), and color study (N=11, 2.9%) and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.20 no.2
• /
• pp.350-361
• /
• 1996

The objectives of this study mere 1) to investigate whether the different nonwoven fabric types influenced on the objective and subjective wear performances of the experimental pesticide protective pants, 2) to detect whether the different finishes treated to the nonwoven fabrics influenced on the objective and subjective wear performances of the experimental pants, and 3) to detect the relationships between objective wear performances and subjective wear sensation. Three types of nonwoven fabrics (T (Tyvek$\textregistered$), 5 (Sontara$\textregistered$) and K (Kimlon$\textregistered$)) were used as test specimens. By pad-dry.cure method, each of the specimen was treated with fluorocarbon compound for water-oil repellent finish (Tw, Sw, Kw). And each of specimen was treated with organic silicon quarternary ammonium salts and then treated with fluorocabon compound for dual functional finish (76, 50, Kd). Using the three water-oil repellent finished fabrics and the three dual functional finished fabrics, six experimental protective pants (Cl (Tw), C2 (Sw), C3 (Kw), C4 (76), C5 (56), C6 (Kd)) were made according to the same pattern suggested by the Rual Guidance Office. The wear trials of experimental pesticide protective pants were performed in a conditioned vinyl plastic hothouse ($30\pm1^{\circ}C$, $70\pm5%$R.H., 0.25m/sec air velocity). The measurements of skin temperature, microclimate temperature and humidity on the subjects were obtained by the themohygromenter. The subjective wear sensations were measured using previously developed thermal, humidity and overall comfort scales. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1) There were siginificant differences among nonwoven fabric types on the objective and subjective wear performances, therefore, the skin temperature, microclimate temperature and humidity of subjects who wore the experimental pants made with Sontara were siginificantly lower than those who wore the others. And, the experimental pants made with Sontara were assessed as more comfortable than the others in terms of the subjective thermal, humidity and overall wear sensations. 2) There were no significant differences between two finish types on the objective and subjective wear Performances. 3) The microclimate humidity on the thigh was highly correlated with the overall subjective comfort sensations and the next highly correlated one was the mean skin temperature. That is, the higher the microclimate humidity and the mean skin temperature, the higher the overall subjective comfort sensation ratings which mean the overall subjective sensation was very uncomfortable.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.588-596
• /
• 2012

This research was intended to design an experimental girdle with thermal insulation function for adult women in their 20s. The design of the experimental girdle was based on the pattern of commercially available girdle. The final pattern of the experimental girdle was established according to the drawing equations determined based on the result of appearance evaluation. The equations were (waist circumference${\times}0.88$)/2 for waist circumference, (hip circumference${\times}0.77$)/2 for hip circumference, and (thigh circumference${\times}0.85$) for thigh circumference. In order to develop a heating device, the most effective fabric heater was adopted based on the experiments about the number of caron fibers, heater size and attachment site. Three heaters-one with a size of $14.5{\times}9.5$ cm, and the other two with the size of $8.0{\times}15.0$ cm-were attached to the areas corresponding to the lower abdomen and the hip, 5 cm below the waist. A heater was developed by connecting these heaters to a controller, 2 batteries (7.4 V 2000 mAh lithium polymer batteries) and a switch (for mode conversion between high/medium/low temperatures). The heater was integrated into the inside of the girdle, so that attachment and detachment were possible without the change of appearance. The tentative configuration plan was proposed for the development of a functional smart girdle with an excellent thermal insulation effect.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.581-594
• /
• 2015

The emergence of pop art in the 1960s exerted a profound impact on integrating art into the real lives of the general public, which continues in the current area of culture of post-industrial society. Thus, this study aims to attempt the popularization and modernization of Korean images by applying the concept of pop art to the development of a national symbolic image. This study utilized Mugunghwa, Taegeukgi, and the Great Seal, which are national symbolic images that establish the identity of Korea through differentiation, universality, and visual formativeness. It then proceeded with the development of neo-pop art motives and patterns using national symbolic images from the standpoint of symbolism, mix-match, and repetitiveness from among the characteristics of neo-pop art. This study carried out pattern design by departmentalizing each characteristic according to the standpoint of neo-pop art through scribbles composed of the following: Signs, pictograms, and childlike characters; drawing simplification for symbolism; a mix of the East and the West; a mix of subfashion and subculture for mix-match; the repetition of lines, characters, and icons; and the exaggeration and grotesqueness of characters and icons for repetitiveness. This study is expected to serve as momentum for raising the cultural value of Korea and for the development of a pattern design capable of achieving worldwide competitiveness through the combination of the permanence and continuity of national symbols with the popular universality of pop art.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.14 no.5
• /
• pp.864-875
• /
• 2006

The characteristics of the demographics in Korea as it gets older are the increase of Elderly Women and continuous progress in urbanization. In this study, body shapes are classified as standard, obese, and tiny according to the previous studies based on the body shape characteristics and the body measurement of the Elderly Women. Based on the classification, we developed prototype of the panty for the Elderly Women to provide basic materials for the quality enhancement of the clothing of the increasing Elderly Women. The followings are the result of the study. 1. To categorize the body shapes of the Elderly Women focusing on the lower half, we grouped the target subjects using the nested approach by the average standard deviation and the factor analysis minimal diffusion method. Accordingly, type 1 and 2 had 36 members respectively and type 3 had 43 members. In this study, two Elderly Women subjects with standard body shape falling under the type 1 were selected as the subjects. 2. In the second trial evaluation for the prototype panty for the Elderly Women 32 items for appearance test and 3 items for functional test were evaluated. The scores in leg, sideline and hip were shown high and the balance between the parts was maintained very well. In the functional test, the panty used to be too tight for the leg curve but in the second trial it was improved, too. In each item, the second trial test showed better score than the first trial test. Conclusively, the most optimal panty prototype for the Elderly Women was proposed according to the trial test result.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.6
• /
• pp.94-110
• /
• 2016

A necessity for infants, diapers are not only used over long durations, but are also in direct contact to the infants' skin, making the choice of diaper to be of utmost importance. Current interest in cloth diapers is rapidly increasing because of issues concerning the baby's health, green environment, and economy. However, previous researches on cloth diapers are limited to simply investigating the form and material of commercial cloth diapers. There are few in-depth researches for the optimal cloth diaper development. This is therefore a fundamental research for the development of optimized cloth diapers, and analyzes the difference in absorption depending on the placement of seam line (liner, darts, and I pattern), the locations of liquid spraying (1 cm and 8 cm ahead of the center), and the amount of liquid capacity (10 and 20 ml). Currently, the development of diaper patterns considers the crotch shape of the infants and the skin length deformation. As a result, in the case of the I-pattern, the horizontal seam line prevents water from spreading to the front and back, thus reducing the absorbed area. This result was more clearly visible when water was sprayed at the center. The effect of the seam line became more obvious when there was more water (20 ml); also, when water was sprayed at the center, more leakage was observed. Using the results of this research, implementation of horizontal seam is expected to prevent the upward spread of urine.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.3
• /
• pp.363-373
• /
• 2016

This study aims to develop an all-fabric integrated smart jacket in order to create a temperature-regulating system based on a user experience design. For this research, previous research technologies of a textile switch interface and a temperature-regulating system were utilized and a unifying technology for the all-fabric integrated smart jacket was developed which can provide the appropriate temperature environments to the human body. A self-heating textile was applied at the areas of the back and hood in the final tested jacket, and an embroidery circuit was developed in the form of a rectangle in the back and in both ears of the hood, taking into account the pattern of the jacket part where it was be applied and the embroidery production method. The textile switch interface was designed in a three-layer structure: an embroidery circuit line in a conductive yarn, an interval material, and a conductive sensing material, and it was made to work with the input and output sensors through the multiple input method. After the all-fabric integrated smart jacket was produced according to the pattern, all of the textile band lines for transmission were gathered and connected with a miniature module for controlling temperature and then integrated into the inside of the left chest pocket of the jacket. After the users put on this jacket, they were asked to assess the wearing satisfaction. Most of them reported a very low level of irritation and discomfort and said that the jacket was as comfortable as everyday clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.3
• /
• pp.137-148
• /
• 2008

This article investigates the production process of knitwear focused on patterns and armhole forms in order to provide basic data for its value-added production. This study was based on empirical data obtained by questionnaires given to 51 respondents employed at knitwear companies. The data had been statistically analyzed with frequency analysis, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan test. The results of this study are the following: First, many knitwear companies used knitting machines, which had gauges as high as 14G. Second, most knitwears companies did not use patterns in the production process. Third, most knitwear companies produced knitwears in which armhole lines were different between the front part and back part of the body, while identical between the front and back parts of the sleeves. Fourth, people with experience in the knitwear industry had the tendency to recognize that armhole lines should be different between the front part of both the body and sleeves and their back part as well, and workers in charge of knitting recognized better than programmers and designers did. Considering the opinions of experienced workers that armhole lines differ between the front and back parts of both the body and sleeves would improve the appearance of knitwear, this study also suggests knitwear patterns of 10G and 16G by using ESMODE's basic knitwear pattern.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.113-125
• /
• 2012

This study aims to understand the evaluation of importance, satisfaction and repurchase intention after dividing the attributes of environment-friendly fashion product in details. Out of 400 surveys, 328 were used in the final analysis of this study, with 113 respondents having experience of buying Environment-friendly fashion products. The analysis of this study is done by SPSS 18.0(ver.). Through the literature review, the objective attributes were subdivided into seven factors, including brand, environment-friendly materials, quality, environment-friendliness when using/managing, environment-friendliness when discarding, color/pattern, and environment-friendly design. Though an empirical study, the subjective attributes were subdivided into three factors, including innovation/individuality, practicality, and dignity/popularity. In the analysis results of the importance of the attributes of environment-friendly fashion products, it was shown that it was considered as importance as above average. The effect of the satisfaction of the objective attributes on the repurchase intention was measured. In the results, the regression model was significant while it was understood that the satisfaction of environment-friendly materials, environment-friendliness when discarding, color/pattern and environment-friendly design had positive effect on the repurchase intention. The effect of the satisfaction of the subjective attributes of environment-friendly fashion products on the repurchase intention was measured. In the results, dignity/popularity and innovation/individuality factors had positive effect on the repurchase intention.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.1
• /
• pp.159-167
• /
• 2009

Based on instructions in the textbook "How to Construct Korean Costumes" which I authored, my university students were required to make Pungcha-Baji(Korean traditional pants for children) for one-year-old boys. While examining the students' construction, I found that the side seams of the vest and pants did not line up but were improperly twisted. It was found that the pants did not cover the child's backside because the width of the back was smaller than the width of the front when one of the side panels and the large center panel in the front was half the size of the hip and one of the side panels and the small panel in the back was four fifths of half the size of the hip. Although there were differences between the waist size of the pants and the bottom hem of the vest, the textbooks instruct that the amount of material and the number of pleats(i.e. 4 pleats) on the pants and the vest should be the same. Finding this mistake led me to investigate Pungcha-Baji construction in related textbooks. Thus with the textbook instruction, the side seams of the pants and the vest do not match and are improperly twisted. Hence, as a solution, the pleats should be made and adjusted after matching the side seams of the pants and the vest. The purpose of this study is to examine currently available Pungcha-Baji related textbooks and determine the correctness of their instructions and to ultimately provide correct construction methods for Pungcha-Baji pattern for academic purposes.