• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.131-139
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• 2010

The ten traditional symbols of longevity are represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, water, cloud, rock, pine tree, elixir plant, tortoise, crane and deer. each subjects symbolizing longevity had used in isolation. unlike China and Japan, the ten symbols of longevity became a fixed form and was widely used in paintings, household effects and clothes in Korea. therefore, It will be a meaningful study how the ten symbols of longevity, as one of subjects in painting, changed into a pattern on clothes. The ten symbols of longevity was affected by various philosophies and religion. especially, it laid emphasis on order by Yin-Yang and the Five Elements theory. the order was applied to arrange each subjects and use colors carefully. the sun colored with red and was on the upper. the pine tree colored with green meaned tree and was on the left. the earth and the mountain meaned the soil and was on the center. the rock meaned the iron and was on the right. the water meaned the water and was on the bottom. The subjects of the study were embroideries like spectacle cases, spoon cases and pouches. the scope of study was the Latter Part of the Joseon Dynasty because there are more relics in the Joseon Dynasty than any other times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.61-77
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.813-820
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• 2019

This study identified actual wearing and size dissatisfaction with jeans worn by upper grade elementary school girls. A survey was conducted on 147 10~12-year-old girls in order to collect basic data to design a slim fit jeans pattern for upper grade elementary school girls. The result of the study are as follows. Upper grade elementary school girls wore jeans at least once a week, 46.9% were 1~2 times, 31.3% were 3~4 times and 21.8% were more than 5 times per week. The size of the jeans they wear was often one size or two sizes larger than the actual height section. Upper grade elementary school girls preferred jeans that fit well and allow for a full range of motion; in addition, waist and hip measurements were important criteria when selecting size. The preferred length of jeans was those that go to the ankle along with slim-style jeans made of "cotton+spandex". In terms of dissatisfaction with jeans, upper grade elementary school girls showed discomfort when the lower back waistline slipped when sitting and when there was a tight crotch area. In addition, cases of exchange or return were found to be due to fit, including waist, hip or thigh measurements even when the area most repaired is was the pant length.ired is pant length, cases of exchange or return were found to be due to fit, including waist, hip, or thigh measurements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.480-491
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• 2010

This study investigates the body satisfaction and fitness apparel depending on age and silhouette. The subjects were 254 females 20~50 years of age living in Chungju South Korea. There are various body types in women over the age of 35, the lower part of the body-development type, regular type, the upper part of the body-development type, and the rectangular body type. In addition, there is a lower satisfaction level in circumferences related with apparel fit, especially in the sleeve length, armhole, and crotch length. Therefore, a size system is needed that considers various body types in ready-to-wear clothing for middle-aged women. Design, color, and pattern are most important in clothing purchases by unmarried women, but the ease of laundry management and price discounts are the most significant for clothing purchases by married women. The upper part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the size-fit of sleeve length and shoulder width, but the lower part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the circumference of the waist, hip, abdominal, girth of skirt, and crotch length. The rectangular body type and the lower part of the body-development type are unsatisfactory in movement comfort, especially in hip girth and crotch length. The upper part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the movement comfort of the chest and elbow girth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.15-32
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to research on the actual condition of production and selling in silver apparel market. For the questionnaire, 19 women's wear brands which were in higher ranking of sales in boutiques and madame-zone of department stores were selected. Pattern makers of each brand were questioned about 40 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1) According to the result of the survey on the made-to-wear production of 19 ready-to-wear manufacturers, there was the gap was in ages between the target and the real consumer. Consumers of these brands were older and aged more broadly than their target ages. 2) Most of the consumers of silver-zone has thick waists, common heights, fat shapes. Custom-made clothes are ordered in many cases because of the big abdomen(50.0%) and H-shape(58.3%) of a somatotype. The body size variation of user population is needed for a good fit. 3) All brands(100%) of this research are using KS standards in the label of clothing, but they don't use these data in their production by reason of unawareness and distrust about these data. These inconsistency between the label and the real size of products may cause a confusion when consumers buy ready-to-wear. 4) Silver apparel manufacturers have need of anthropometry information and dummy(78.6%) suitable for their target consumers to increase their satisfaction about their apparel fit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.29-44
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• 2014

This thesis aims to compare the representative costume patterns of the Chinese Qing dynasty and contemporary $18^{th}$ century French costumes. As a research method, qualitative research was performed to compare and analyze the patterns of the flowers, the birds and pagoda shown in Qing dynasty and France. The results are as follows: The Chinese flower patterns used the embroidery technique for 3-step gradation colors to decorate flowers with less than 10 petals. Also, the forms of the flowers were large and simple in China. The flower patterns of the 18th century France is more similar to those of Qing dynasty than to the traditional French flower patterns. They used the drawing technique for the gradation colors and completed the work by embroidery. In the case of bird patterns, the crane on menswear, and the phoenix on women's wear were applied to signify the symbolic feature of the Chinese symbolism. On the other hand, those in France were used solely for the division of the gender. As a result the clear form of the birds in China contrasted with the unclear forms of birds in France. During the influx of mandarine square to France from China, the application of crane and phoenix according to gender seems to be stressed emphatically without considering their symbolic meaning. In light of the pagoda pattern, Qing dynasty showed interest only in the form of pagoda, denoting the simple two-tier structure without detailed description. Whereas in France, the pagodas were three or four tiers, with gorgeous colors and much more detail than those of Qing dynasty. In conclusion, the main determinants of influences on the patterns of France from China would be forms, colors, constructions and technique of embroidery, along with the disregard for symbolic significance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.327-337
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is for size suitability and fitness improvement for Korean 20's women. This study has classified hip types of 20's women by the 6th Korean Anthropometric Survey(Size Korean), then compared their lower body-type by hip types each other. The results are as follows. Factor analysis in sorting hip types can be explained 77.72% by nine factors. And cluster analysis can be divided into three types. Type 1 is referred to as a general type which has the largest size in the 'Hip circumference', but the buttocks's horizontal sizes are in the middle size besides the hip line. Type 2 is referred to as a protruding type in upper buttocks which is large in protruding volume of upper buttocks, but the buttock's horizontal sizes are small including 'Hip circumference', and buttock's horizontal section form close to circle. Type 3 is referred to as a type which is contrary to Type 2. Type 3 is small in protruding volume of upper buttocks, but large in lower buttocks, and the protrusions in whole buttocks are small, so the side view of Type 3 made gentle fit shape. By these results, the study could classify lower body of 20's women, and it can be basic data for new sizing systems and pattern development of bottoms.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.294-303
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• 2012

This study was designed to develop air force mechanic parka, evaluate it, and ultimately provide functionally superior parka to the air force. The development process was 1) conducting a survey, 2) identifying problems and shortcomings of currently-supplied parkas, and 3) improving the design, pattern and materials. The newly-developed parkas were evaluated in terms of their ease of fit, clothing mobility, and insulation. Ease of fit was evaluated by subjects' sensory tests, and clothing mobility was by fitness-for-motion tests and range-of-motion tests using a Goniometer. Evaluation on insulation was conducted by thermal manikins. Findings of this study were as follows: 1. In the subjective evaluation on clothing mobility, new parkas were considered to have sufficient ease of fit while previous ones scored much lower, confirming the improvement of the new version. 2. Both subjective tests and ROM measurements on fitness for motion verified the superiority of the new parkas. 3. Insulation tests found that although insulation capability of newly-developed parkas was at a similar level to those of the previous ones, their insulation capability per unit weight was superior, demonstrating that new parkas were better at blocking heat conduction. When making changes in parka patterns and designs to enhance the mobility, it was necessary to maintain the insulation function. The new parkas developed by this study was verified to be superior to the previous ones in their insulation and clothing mobility.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.911-917
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate muscle activity of the lower limbs when walking in jeans in order to obtain basic information for development of new jeans patterns with excellent movement adaptability. Using three types of jeans (basic, medium, and slim) with different ease on hip, knee circumference, and crotch length, and two different types of shoes, Electromyogram (EMG) of the lower limbs muscle was measured for four healthy subjects walking on treadmills and stairs. EMG of vastus lateralis, semitendinous, tibialis anterior and medial head of gastrocnemius muscles was measured. The muscle activity was assessed in RMS (Root Mean Square) value of the EMG. On the treadmill in sneakers, only the vastus lateralis muscle showed a significant difference in RMS value depending on patterns. Basic and medium jeans allowed higher muscle activity than trunks of slim jeans did. On the treadmill in high heels and slim jeans, the RMS values of all muscles were significantly smaller than in basic jeans, whereas no significant differences were shown while in trunks or medium jeans. On the stairs either in sneakers or in high heels, no significant differences were shown between all muscle activities for all types of jeans. On the treadmill, greater fatigue was induced in all muscles from walking in high heels than in sneakers for all jeans patterns. When walking on the stairs wearing either type of shoes, however, the effect of jeans pattern on muscle activities was different from muscle to muscle.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.202-209
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• 2018

This study examined thermo-physiological responses according to the design change of construction site working clothes (control (C) working clothes; prototype (P) working clothes). We measured rectal temperature, skin temperature, micro-climate within the clothes and sweat rate. In the evaluation of physiological functionality, based on pattern improvement in working clothes, P working clothes showed significantly lower rectal temperatures, trunk and thigh skin temperatures than C working clothes. It is preferable that rectal temperature should be kept low during work that is not favorable to an increase in body temperature. P working clothes were more physiologically functional than C working clothes. In addition, P working clothes showed significantly lower temperatures in the trunk and thigh parts in a micro climate temperature. We could explain that the side seam zipper on the pants and the gusset on armpit parts create an air permeability effect of lowering the temperature of micro-climate. Aggressive ventilation through the slit of the garment is an important factor for the restoration of the physiological function of the worker at rest between work. Sweat rate showed a higher level in C working clothes than P working clothes. When working in a hot environment, workwear needs to be designed so that the worker is not exposed to thermal stress. Therefore, it was evaluated that the P work clothes used in this study alleviated the physiological burdens of heat.