• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.799-809
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• 2000

This study was designed for automated pattern drawing and grading a man's Durumagi, Korean traditional coat in order to reestablished and grade the pattern by Apparel CAD SYSTEM. For the study, AM-250 systems of Gerber as the computer and Macro program as the automated drawing were used. Also, PDS(Pattern Design System) was used for the grading of the original Durumagi pattern. Results were followings; First, the size data that could be standardized by reestablishing the pattern of a man's Durumagi by each size was presented. Second, The pattern was developed by each size. Third, new design was propose for mass production with the traditional design of the DURUMAGI Fourth, The time for making DURUMAGI pattern and the cost through the automated drawings by using the Macro program were reduced. Moreover, was presented the basic data for a ready to made garment like the Western garment. Five, A man's DURUMAGI by CAD System was graded that could be applied to ready to made Hanbok

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.62-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop men's formal jacket pattern for the Korean males of age 25 to 34 age with an average physique. Through the survey on seven industries of the ready-made men's wear, we investigated size systems and jacket patters presently practiced. From the fitting test of four patterns (three for ready-made jacket patterns, one for educational pattern) the moat favorable and comfortable pattern was selected. New experimented jacket pattern was based on it. The findings were as followed. 1) Survey of the domestic ready-made garment industries showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own size systems. 2) Anthropometric measurments of forty males for the subjects of lilting test were agreed to the survey of National Anthropometric of Korean(1997). These were also compatible to the standard size (100-88-175) of investigated industries. 3) Experimental jacket pattern was completed through the three times rectification and it gained higher ratings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.11-21
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• 2009

It is remarkable that the children's wear market has been growing instead of declining birth rate. The parents are willing to pay more when they find children's wear of better design and improved quality. For better quality, it is necessary to research on the pattern making of children's wear. After the interview with the 10 leading children's brands, we found that they develop individual design pattern based on each items middle block pattern which characterize the brands design line. Most frequently used middle block is for casual pants. Through interview with pattern designers, comparative study of patterns drafting methods, wearing test of trial garments and altering and adjustment of patterns, we developed the casual pants block pattern for 7 years old boys.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.11-24
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• 2020

This research examines pattern production of 3 men's costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men's coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men's costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; 'Drawing diagram-Primary pattern drafting by measurement value-3D virtual fitting-Checking the fit-Modification and complement'. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1987

The objectives of this study were: 1. To investigate the relationship between arm movement and clothing pressure in the upper arm and shoulder blade area. 2. To find out the relationship between ease of basic pattern and clothing pressure in the upper arm and shoulder blade area. 3. To study any interaction between arm movement and ease of clothing on the clothing pressure. This study was an experimental research using the measuring devices of clothing pressure. The subjects were the unmarried college women. Arm movements were 3 types($45^{\circ}$, $90^{\circ}$, $135^{\circ}$) to the horizontal direction. The ease of basic pattern in the breast was 3 types(4 cm, 6 cm, 8cm). The statistical analyses used in this study included mean, standard deviation and one-way analysis of variance. The results obtained from this research were as follows; 1. The whole clothing pressure increased as the angle of the arm movement increased. Part of upperarm and shoulder blade above axillar gave high clothing pressure while part of upperarm and shoulder blade above upper breast, low pressure. Difference between highest clothing pressure and lowest clothing pressure increased as the arm movementdid. 2. The whole clothing pressure increased as the ease of the basic pattern in breast decreased. No matter how the ease of basic pattern in the breast area varied, the Points where generally showed high and low pressure were identical. 3. The whole arm pressure increased as the movement angle increased and the ease of pattern in breast area decreased. Difference between highest clothing pressure and lowest clothing pressure increased as the movement angle increased and the ease decreased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.443-455
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• 2012

In this research, a woman matched to the average Korean standard size specification of 21-24 years of age was scanned using Cyberware. Rapidform 2004 was used to separate the body zone into fit zone, action zone and design zone, depending on the function of the lower body. Each divided body zone expanded radially using 'offset' by 1.60mm at the cross section of the waist, and 6.36mm at the hip level. Resultant ease values were 1cm and 4cm along the waistline and hipline (respectively), as recommended in previous research. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD was used to develop a pant pattern from the enlarged 3D body surface blocks. A total of five pants were constructed using conventional fabrics for light weight formal pants. The appearance of the experimental pants were evaluated by five clothing-major evaluators using a questionnaire that consisted of 21 questions. In addition, functional aspects of the experimental pants were also evaluated by wearer while performing five postures for the measurement of ease of movement. It was found that, the method of regional offset and suggested 3D to 2D pattern development generate reasonably good pant patterns. Among the pattern block arrangements, the method B was evaluated as the best way to generate formal pants from the tight-fit pattern, which fit smoothly over the lower body for maintaining ease of movement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.21-33
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• 1981

The purpose of this study was to develop a skirt pattern drafting method for korean women between the ages of $18\~24$ on the basis of their physical charcteristics which differs from those of other races in its size and figure. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. Ten types of convantional skirt patterns were collected and compared to determine the essential measuring items for skirt construction, and to discover what problems are involved. 2. Fourteen items of KIST measurement data were analysed for correlation coefficients, to establish representative items and independent ones. 3. Front waist length and back waist length were additionally measured for supplementary data. 4. A new skirt drafting method was developed based on the results of the pattern comparison and the data analysis. 5. A sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new method comparing it with the most widely accepted conventional pattern. An original rating scale was developed for the evaluation and an expert panel consisting of five members judged each shell from 12 subjects by random selection. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 17 items on the rating scale, 14 items showed significant differences (${\alpha}\leqq$0.01 or ${\alpha}\leqq$0.05) between the two, with the new pattern having better fit. The new pattern drafting method proved to be superior to the conventional one especially in the fitness at the back hip, dart length, side seam balance, and the ease for daily activities.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.505-514
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• 2017

Although studies on the development of cool touch fabrics have been conducted widely, the effects of fitted pattern on enhancing the cooling sensation are insufficient. To investigate the effect of cool-touch fabric and fit of women's sports underwear, 3D and 2D patterns of sleeveless top and sports leggings were constructed. The performance of cool touch was tested by the Qmax value and wear test with nine subjects. Objective fit evaluation was observed by 3D virtual clothing using Clo software. Subjects rated wearing sensation such as 'cooling sensation, fit, wear comfort and preferences of purchase' using Likert's scale in the environmental chamber at $25^{\circ}C$, 45 %RH. The Qmax value of the cool touch fabric was higher than that of the PET fabric, which was well reflected in 'cooling sensation', especially in the case of a tight-fitted 3D pattern. The cooling sensation of the cool-touch fabric was not significantly elevated with 3D tight pattern as long as the size of the 2D pattern was similar to that of 3D pattern. However, the purchase preference was highly correlated with 3D fit and wear comfort.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.633-645
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop brassiere patterns which are both fitting and functional for women aged 19 to 24(the 1924 generation). We suggested a 'size chart for body measurements' for constructing basic brassiere patterns with six sizes of '70, 75', 'AA, A, B cups', which are used most frequently by the 1924 generation consumers. The scope of research was in reference to the statistical analysis results of the Size Korea(2004) body measurements and the results of the data from the preceding research. The 'drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for the 1924 generation consumers' was completed by selecting a total of 18 subjects, 3 for each six sizes in the scope of research, and three wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. We compiled one brassiere pattern in six sizes obtained with the drafting method of constructing a basic brassiere pattern on another by block pattern in order to observe the phase of change in dimensions and shapes of paper pattern. The result was converted into the variations of a x-axis and a y-axis, and we suggested 'Size Grading Rule' and 'Cup Grading Rule' for the basic brassiere patterns. As the results of the wearing evaluation of the basic brassieres and measuring the variation in body dimensions by wearing brassieres, the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassieres suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.