• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.15 no.3 s.39
• /
• pp.309-320
• /
• 1991

The purpose of this study was to develope a pattern drafting method for various somatotype which contribute largely to increase the fitness and comfort of garments. This study had 8 subjects who were college girls who had prominent somatic characteristics. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. The 8 subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics were cheesed by photograph- ing. The somatotypes of 8 subjects were classified into Standard somatotype, Turning over somatotype, Bending somatotype and Turning over-Bending somatotype. 2. Under the criterion of the body surface development, the comparative investigation on the pattern and the sensory evaluation were accomplished in the flat pattern method and the draping pattern method. 3. The body surface development of them were made by the draping pattern method. 4. In the result of the comparative investigation and the sensory evaluation, it was found that the flat pattern had better appearance and comfort than the draping pattern, and the draping pattern included more somatic characteristics than the flat pattern. 5. On the basis of those result, the pattern drafting method according to the somatotype was indicated and it was examinated by the clothing experiment. 6. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new basic pattern for four somatotype by comparing it with the conventional basic pattern (Rim, won ja' 5). The result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new basic pattern was more suitable for each somatotype than the conventional basic pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.4
• /
• pp.80-93
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to recognize about lingerie company's education and pattern-making actual conditions. This study used a questionnaire method. Respondent of survey is designers who work in exist lingerie company. The collected data were statistically processed using SPSS(Statistical Package for Social Science) for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Most of lingerie designers educated lingerie design, pattern and textiles etc. after entering a company and satisfaction 57.3% about education has satisfaction of intergrade. 2. Designer's 87.8% has satisfaction more than intergrade about own pattern-making technology and work career is high, satisfaction about pattern-making technology is high. 3. Correlation was expose that is in lingerie education availability and optimum level arrival period of pattern-making ability before entering a company. In case take lingerie education before entering a comany, thought that optimum level arrival period of pattern-making ability is shorter. 4. Most of lingerie company designers used flat pattern-making method and draping method. 5. There is correlation between work career and using the basic pattern. Work career was expose that make and use only own basic pattern in case is more than 3 years. 6. Contents about deepening pattern-making technology are most by 92.2% to contents of lingerie reeducation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.139-148
• /
• 1998

This study was performed to develop the flare skirt pattern in CAD system by each of the textile's test. 1 made 28 flare skirts(360$^{\circ}$, length of 60 cm, straight gram at front ST side seam, 28 kind of textiles) and found the changes of skirt length. And I measured thickness, weight, density, drapability and bending in these textiles. Therefore, It analyzed these data and found it regression.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.2
• /
• pp.187-199
• /
• 2009

Recently, the quality and design of the children's wear is being improved remarkably. Following the trend, the need for the research on the pattern making of children's wear is growing. At first, we tried to find out how the industry is doing the pattern making job through interview. Results are as follows. The target age ranges from 5 to 11 years old. For the sample size of pattern making, 7 years of age is preferred. It is not usual to develop the design pattern from the bodice block pattern. Instead, they use middle block pattern for each item, such as blouse, shirt, pants, skirt or jacket. Starting from these middle block pattern, they prepare individual designs. With the results, the aim of the research became to develop one of most frequently used middle block pattern. The blouse block pattern was selected for that purpose. To look into the existing patterns, we selected 4 methods, i.e. NM-method, T-method, O-method, E-methods. Theses patterns were compared through wearing test for the evaluation of comfort and fit using trial garments. The results indicated the NM-method was best among them. Specially waist line position, shoulder shape and size allowance was adequate. Alteration and adjustment of pattern draft was made onto the NM-method. Allowances for the bust circumference, across chest, across back and depth of arm was adjusted for better comfort as well as fine fit. Sidelines of the bodice and the underarm seam of the sleeves were curved for styling. After another wearing test, the final pattern was suggested as a blouse block pattern for 7 years old girl.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.9_10 s.146
• /
• pp.1359-1368
• /
• 2005

When we develop the tight-fit 2D pattern from the 3D scan data, segmentation of the 3D scan data into several parts is necessary to make a curved surface into a flat plane. In this study, Garland's method of triangle simplification was adopted to reduce the number of data point without distorting the original shape. The Runge-Kutta method was applied to make triangular patch from the 3D surface in a 2D plane. We also explored the detailed arrangement method of small 2D patches to make a tight-fit pattern for a male body. As results, minimum triangle numbers in the simplification process and efficient arrangement methods of many pieces were suggested for the optimal 2D pattern development. Among four arrangement methods, a block method is faster and easier when dealing with the triangle patches of male's upper body. Anchoring neighboring vertices of blocks to make 2D pattern was observed to be a reasonable arrangement method to get even distribution of stress in a 2D plane.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.37 no.12 s.142
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to investigate the color preference of women living in Seoul, to provide materials which is useful for setting up the color plan for a better costume, and to suggest new information in the apparel study. This study is done on the basis of color preference only by age and the range of this study restricted on womens' clothes. The subjects of this research are 1,100 young adult women and 1,244 elderly women photographed in the street. The data are analyzed by frequency and percentage. The results of this study are as follows ; The preference of chromatic color and achromatic color, tint and tone, pattern of textiles are different mainly by age. 1. Elderly women prefer achromatic colors to chromatic colors. The most preferred achromatic color is black, especially elderly women prefer black. 2. Analysis of tint shows that blue, red and yellow red are commonly preferred by women. Especially blue is preferred by young women : red and yellow red are preferred by elderly women. 3. Analysis of tone shows that vivid, pale, dark tones are commonly preferred by women. Especially vivid tone is preferred by elderly women, while pale tone is preferred by young women 4. Analysis of pattern of textiles shows at, pattern textiles are preferred by elderly women rather than by young women. The most preferred pattern for elderly women is a flower pattern, and for young women a stripe pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.57-67
• /
• 1982

The purpose of this study was to improve the clothing life of the children between the nine to twelve by making a scientific and rational basic bodice pattern. The comparison of the eight pattern drafting currently used in Korea was referred in order to make new basic pattern. Three hundred fifty-two subjects from 9 to 12 years old in Seoul area were measured on 19 items. The measurements (24 items including 19 measured items and 5 drafted items that were difficult to measure) were analyzed by mean values and correlation coefficients between each item. This new pattern attempted to set the ease for clothing from experiments of the changes of body surface in motion. On the basis of the above results, a new bodice basic pattern was developed and tested with wearing three times. Through the experiments in measuring the changes of the body surface in motion, it was concluded that it desirable to set a standard of 12cm clothing ease on the bust circumference and 4cm on the waist circumference. The correlation coefficient of the tack width to across back was relatively high (r= .677), therefore, the latter measuring items were eliminated. A grading method was adopted to determine the width and depth of neckline and shoulder slope.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.5
• /
• pp.741-751
• /
• 2009

In order to design and develop the various silhouette of pants pattern for standardized pants patterns, this study is to classify the pants style by the silhouette and to characterize each pants pattern which are classified. Recent 37 ready-made pants patterns of various style were collected in order to analyze their silhouette from April to July 2007. Measurement of each region of the pants pattern were compared and analysed. After analyse the standard deviation, coefficient of variance, minimum, maximum, range about the measurement of each region of the pants pattern, major pattern design factors were extracted. Five major factors are the angle of center front line and center back line, the crotch extension, the position of center back line against center front line, the curvature of center back line, and amount of waist dart. As a result, pants style were grouped as the culottes, formal, basic and tight style after considering the extracted design factors, and analysing correlation, degree of dispersion of the measurement by part. As the silhouette of pants classification from culotte to tight, the fits are closer to the figure, crotch depth increases, crotch extensions are shorter, and angle of the center back increases. The shape of the connected front and back center lines is U-shape for culotte and is closer to V-shape as the silhouette becomes tight.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.45 no.3
• /
• pp.477-494
• /
• 2021

This study examined four subjects with close to average body-size values in four stages based on the average BMI value of middle-aged women aged 45 to 59 years. The first experimental pants was developed with two kinds of educational materials pants pattern. After using a clothing-suitability evaluation to identify problems, a pants pattern suitable for the body shape of middle-aged women was developed by modifying and supplementing the initial design. The fit assessment revealed that pattern A had a problem with wrinkles in the hip and thigh areas due to the long crotch length, and pattern B had a short bottom length, which caused the bottom to curl in toward the groin or for the bottom to stick at the hips. The second experimental pants was developed to address these issues and overall satisfaction with the dimensions was higher than for the first educational pattern. The proper front and rear length extensions satisfied movement functionality and appearance requirements, and increasing the gradient of the back centerline-rather than expanding the width of the back crotch-improved the functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.1
• /
• pp.56-73
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study is to categorize the lotus patterns of traditional Korean fabrics. This study collected 169 fabrics of Korean lotus flower patterns and then made a list of era, configuration of pattern, type of artifact, findspot and holding institutions. It analyzes the characteristics of 251 kinds of lotus woven on 169 Korean fabrics, 251 kinds of lotus on 169 fabrics divided into Realistic Type, Design Type, and Abstract Type. They consist of 213 kinds of Design Type(84.8%), 21 kinds of Realistic Type(8.4%), and 17 kinds of Abstract Type(6.8%). The largest part of lotus patterns is Design Type. Design Types are subdivided into 14 types. This result contrasted with the conclusion of the research paper about peony patterns in Traditional Korean Textiles. The largest part of peony patterns was Realistic Types. Realistic Types of lotus patterns in Korean textiles are subdivided into 6 types. Korea has more diverse forms and a higher ratio of Realistic Types than China and this can be interpreted to reflect that there is a tendency in Korea to prefer natural patterns. Besides abstract Types are subdivided into 3 types. When the lotus flower patterns of Korea and China are categorized and similar types are compared, there are some unique patterns that appear only in Korea or China. Not only that, similar types display differences in pattern arrangement methods and portrayal among the two countries. If such study results are utilized, they can be grounds for distinguishing the production area of lotus flower textile fabrics when they are newly excavated in the future.