• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2014

In textile industry, needs for various weave drafts have been increased to produce high qualified textile goods. One of disadvantages of traditional textile industry was spending time and money on manual sampling. Nowadays, however, weave draft design and sampling using CAD programs reduce these consumption efficiently. Therefore, this study aimed to provide high qualified woven fabrics by weave draft designs influenced by geometric patterns. First, We analyzed geometric patterns, except for dot, stripe, and checks, in fashion collections from 2009 to 2014 S/S. Then, based on these analyses, design concepts were decided. Third, weave drafts influenced by geometric patterns were designed with weave CAD program, TEX PRO 10.0 by Youngwoo CNI inc. Forth, We simulated fabrics woven by new drafts using CAD programs, depending on fibers, yarns, density of woven, colors, and finishes. Unclassified geometric patterns would be expressed by small size patterns that influenced by retro moods, square patterns with various color variation, zigzag lines, and pieces of puzzles. Three design concepts were decided as greenness, neoclassic, and romantic chic. Thus, geometric patterns for printing were created as drafts for general looms, and one repeat of each draft were provided. According to the design concepts, we designed 13 fabrics with 4 geometric patterns weaving drafts. All Drafts were designed with CAD programs. Finally, same drafts were simulated as woven fabrics for both S/S and F/W seasons by changing each element, such as fiber, yarns, density, colors, and finishes.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.69-79
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to compare fitting of the upper garment by brassiere cup size and types of bodice block. This study conducted a 3D virtual garment system by applying three types of bodice block (I, II, III) and experimental pattern of the bodice block to 3D avatars of four individuals with the following measurements: under bust circumference of 73.5 cm and bust circumferences of 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0cm. The results of the study were as follows. First, for 83.5 cm bust circumference (A Cup), appearance of the three types of bodice block (I, II, III) was appropriate. However, as bust circumference increased in size, shape became inappropriate. The depth and width of the armhole, within 15 cm and 11 cm, respectively, were found to be appropriate. In case of 91.0 cm bust circumference (D Cup), all three bodices (I, II, III) were inappropriate. Second, the results of the draft of the experimental patterns of the bodice block of bust circumference measuring 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0 cm in the 3D avatars of the four individuals revealed similarities in the frontal view of the silhouette in the four avatars; in the case of the lateral view of the silhouette, lateral width grew wider as bust circumference of the silhouette became larger, but the shape of armhole showed no changes. The depth of the armhole showed little changes from 15.1 cm to 15.22 cm, and the height of sleeve (armscye depth 13.6 cm within +2 cm) remained similar. The difference in width of the armhole from 11.26 cm to 11.37 cm was rather small. The width of the upper sleeve (8.97 cm) seemed to be appropriate as it remained within the 2-3 cm boundary.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and the mode of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Through the review of previous studies and various articles, three major features with regard to deconstructionism were found: indeterminacy of meaning, decentralization, and inter -textuality. In fashion, the feature of indeterminacy of meaning expressed by non formula way such as unfinished, layering, obi or straight line cutting and it was divided into unstructured and unorganized factors. The feature of decentralization expressed by disorganization of sex, race, culture and humanism such as trans-gender, third world costume, sub-culture, posthumanism. Last, the feature of inter-textuality expressed by employing the fashion texts more than two simultaneously such as mixture of unmatched or unusual various clothing items, fabrics, patterns and styles. Non formality features in fahsion which divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors. The decentering of meaning means that disorganized the existing concepts of sex, race, culture and humanism features in fashion which divided into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, the feature of inter-textuality means that employed the fashion text more than two which is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Unstructured factors were expressed by destroying the design principles such as balance, harmony and unit in fashion. Unconstructed factors were expressed by ignoring the basic costume structures and components in fashion. Cross-gender was expressed by manish and duality style in fashion and 3rd world costume was expressed by folk costume style. Anti fashion was expressed by anti aesthetics in fashion such as kitch, punk, and hippie styles. Post-human was expressed by futurism and the 4th Sex style in fashion. Mixing mode were expressed by mixture of item, and unmatched materials and pattern in fashion. Mixture of style were expressed by mixture of pastiche expression of various styles.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.74-87
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• 2017

The aim of this study was to analyze the features of bodice patterns modeled using a dress form that represents Korean female fashion models' body features. A controlled experiment was carried out using an existing dress form that has been frequently used in South Korea. The purpose of the study was to suggest notable findings derived from understanding the development of bodice patterns for Korean female fashion models. The comparison of features of bodice patterns from the developed and existing dress forms was carried out with consideration of the upper body features of the developed dress form, such as body angles and body cross-sectional shapes. The following results were derived from the investigations. (1) The angles of the upper and lower breast cups of the developed dress form differed to those of the existing dress form, showing a 5.0cm smaller front shoulder dart and a 3.5 larger ㎝ ㎝ front waist dart within the bodice patterns. (2) The body angle features of the developed dress form included a straighter neck and shoulder blade and more concave center back than the existing dress form, with a 2.0 reduced back neck height and a 4.8 larger back waist dart for ㎝ ㎝ the bodice back panel. The more realistic body angles of the developed dress form anticipate the improvement of garment pattern-making. (3) The altered shoulder angles resulted in an increased size of the back shoulder dart and a decreased size of the front shoulder height within the bodice patterns. (4) The increased rate of curvature of cross-sectional shapes on the bust and waist circumferences of the developed dress form resulted in an increase in the sizes of the front and back waist darts.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.30-46
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• 2018

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.69-78
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• 2008

A new coinage which calls a modern was appeared variously by values, taste, feature of lifestyle and the meaning of a new coinage has influence in the change of lifestyle. Particularly a popular star is a person who situates in the center of a new coinage, his role, behavior, and appearance have great influence in the birth of a new coinage. He is a fashion leader as well as the object of fashion imitation to the new generation being sensitive for fashion. As his fashion is appeared with important fashion icon in fashion market, fashion companies have developed actively star marketing marking him as an advertising model. Therefore, because the fashion trends of a popular star introduce season's fashion trends and can be important factor forecasting fashion behavior of consumer, this study aims at analysis for fashion trends of a popular star including a public entertainer. The dates of this study were collected by TV drama, internet, and magazines, etc. The fashion trends were divided into feminine fashion trend, sexy fashion trend, tomboy fashion trend, and retro fashion trend. Feminine fashion trend was based on feminity but it was classified in masculine look, simple look, chic look, and natural & romantic look according to the standard of a transformation of feminine image. Sexy fashion trend was divided into two sexy images according to the method wrapping oneself in a dress and the method exposing a specific body part. Tomboy fashion trend could be the immature boyish style which concealed bust or hip or pelvis symbolizing feminity. Retro fashion trend could be style being based on 1980's style and Y line. Fashion items as leggings, baby doll dress, tunic style, dot pattern, garsonne look were come into fashion.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.81-90
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• 2006

The objective of the study is to review trends of clothing export in important countries of the world and thus to know the present stage of clothing export in Korea. For the purpose, changes of export amount, competitiveness and product life cycle were analysed in the countries from the 1960's to the 1990's. The results are as following: First, on the aspect of export amount, industrialized countries lost the lead to newly industrializing countries from the 1960's. Developing countries, as China, win the lead. Second, on the competitiveness aspect, industrialized countries lost competitiveness to newly industrializing countries before the 1960's. And newly industrializing countries were outpaced by China in the export competitiveness from the early 1990's. Third, on the aspect of product life cycle, industrialized countries go first through each period of product life cycle, introduction, growth, maturity and decline, and they all, excluding Japan, sustained period of Maturity for a long time. newly industrializing countries and developing countries go orderly through each period of product life cycle after industrialized countries. As to Korea, duration of each period was short. Specially characteristics of decline period appeared partly in the early 1990's. From the results, the theory of product life cycle, helping to explain changes in production and trade in new product lines, estimated to applicable to clothing export. The phenomena, Italy, Hong Kong and America sustain high competitiveness in the world clothing market for a long time, is needed to be studied carefully. The study about strong points in their clothing industries and competitiveness drive program be to influence Korean export policy in the future.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제37권1호
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• pp.15-28
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• 1999

Living culture, which is a pattern of peoples' everyday living, is influenced by the socio-economic conditions as well as ideology of the society. South and North Korean societies have been segregated during the past 50 years with different socio-economic conditions and idelolgies, resulting different living cultures, even though those two societies share the same traditional culture. This project was developed to identify the differences in living cultures between South and North Korean concentrated on finding out the current living culture of North Korean families. Based on indepth interview with ten people who escaped from North Korea after 1990, empirical survey with 158 subjects was conducted. The subjects with various demographic backgrounds were asked about lifestyles concerning clothing, food, housing that they experienced when they were in North Korea. This study revealed differences in many aspects of living cultures of South and North Korea, and relationships were suggested in three lifestyles. The study was intended to provide ground for more information to the following study that will explore the cue of integration between South and North Korean societies in living culture.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.192-208
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• 2016

Due to the paradigm shift in fashion industry, its contribution to social activities and social enterprises' practice of ethical fashion has been on the rise lately. The surveillance and regulations of international community have increased in light of the betterment of working conditions and protection of the rights, and corporate social responsibility has been emphasized through consumers' interest in ethical consumption. In this regard, the fashion social enterprises' responsible and ethical management can both boost the trust in business and value-added. The study aims to propose feasible methods by exploring ways to induce support from central and local governments, which will lead to the activation of future fashion social enterprises and paradigms shift of consumers's perception and value. The sustainability of social enterprises requires management line or policies that consider social, environmental, economic, and political aspects of virtuous cycle, differentiated internally or externally. Fashion social enterprises also need ethic management and social responsibility management that are distinctive from general fashion enterprises. Thus, they will not be sustainable or differentiated unless entrepreneurial faith and role is not clear. Education and continuous promotion including upcycling are critical to build consumer base as they can make consumers spend ethically and recognize social enterprises. In addition, social education and public relations need to take place in order to internalize consumer pattern. The goal of sustainable corporate social activity is to change the awareness and become social investment that returns some profits to the society as members in line with reviewing corporate image. This can lead to establishing the foundation of securing a big comsumer market and winning the trust of the consumer's through corporate social responsibility and investment.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.665-680
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to develop the construction process of orthopedic compression garments (OCG) for balancing of the left and right lumbar muscle power and strength to prevent low back pain. One male subject having low back pain was involved for investigating of the lumbar muscle power. EMG (Telemyo DTS2, Noraxon, U.S.A) was measured with/ without 3 types of waist assistant belt around the waist area of the subject. Based on the electromyogram value of left and right body, OCG were constructed as follows. Firstly, stretchable t-shirts type with supportive waist belt was selected for the convenience of wearing and laundering the OCG. The design lines of the front and back waist parts were created depending on the anatomy of the torso. Secondly, 3D pattern was developed using 3D Clo, RapidForm XOR, 2C-AN, and Yuka CAD program to increase the fit of the OCG. Finally, stretchable power-net was layered as linings in two ways, a single lining and double layered linings, and evaluated measuring lumbar muscle EMG by five subjects with low back pain. As the results, they were effective to balance the left and right lumbar muscle power and strength. Also the OCG with the double layered power-net lining was superior to the one layered lining in terms of fit and comfort.