• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.71-82
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to help understanding of patterns and to play a guideline's role in the development of designs and the prediction of trends for present and future fashion designers and textile designers. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through the analysis about actual works. The results of study are like followings. An inquiry of Pattern history in 20c is divided into six periods by the classification of styles and the styles of fashion culture according to other artistic formative will. Main trends of Pattern's image in each period and characteristics in each dimensions of Pattern image positioning are like followings. Art Nouveau style period from 1900 to 1910 is , Art Deco style period from 1910 to 1920 is , Elegance style period of 1930s is , and New Romantic style period from 1945 to mid 1950s and Pop style period from late 1950s to mid 1970s does not show main Pattern image but they are shown in four Pattern image of , , , . Compromising style period from late 1980s to 1990s shows all of four Pattern image, at the same time shows intensive main Pattern's image, .

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2015

This study aims to compare the ease of men's single-pleated pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The researchers selected five(four educational materials and one industrial pattern) slim-fit single-pleated pants which is the current fashion trend in menswear. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing, opacity, and clothing pressure. The results showed that D pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while C pants had the least ease. The E pants had the greatest ease on the hip circumference, then B pants and C pants showed less ease. Also, the E pants had the longest on the pants length, then D pants showed the shortest. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, B, E, and C pants, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. From the results, we can understand that each of the 5 single-pleated pants patterns has different ease amount and silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• Korea-Australia Rheology Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.211-219
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• 2007

Here we demonstrate complex transient behavior of viscoelastic liquid described numerically with the Leonov model in straight and contraction channel flow domains. Finite element and implicit Euler time integration methods are employed for spatial discretization and time marching. In order to stabilize the computational procedure, the tensor-logarithmic formulation of the constitutive equation with SUPG and DEVSS algorithms is implemented. For completeness of numerical formulation, the so called traction boundaries are assigned for flow inlet and outlet boundaries. At the inlet, finite traction force in the flow direction with stress free condition is allocated whereas the traction free boundary is assigned at the outlet. The numerical result has illustrated severe forward-backward fluctuations of overall flow rate in inertial straight channel flow ultimately followed by steady state of forward flow. When the flow reversal occurs, the flow patterns exhibit quite complicated time variation of streamlines. In the inertialess flow, it takes much more time to reach the steady state in the contraction flow than in the straight pipe flow. Even in the inertialess case during startup contraction flow, quite distinctly altering flow patterns with the lapse of time have been observed such as appearing and vanishing of lip vortices, coexistence of multiple vortices at the contraction comer and their merging into one.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.105-116
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• 2011

Modem society has reached the level where its environmental pollution is in a critical stage, and socio-political focus has been moved onto the minimization of environmental pollution. In the fashion industry, ethical production and consumption for the global protection has become the value to aim for. The purpose of this study is to establish the concept of redesigned fashion, which is a type of designing method designed to reduce global waste, and conduct a case studies on it to analyze its patterns. Environmental-friendly redesigned fashion concept is about remaking a fashion with totally different function, using disposed and wornout items from everyday lives. It is a fashion design minimizing raw materials and reducing industrial wastes. The types of redesigned fashion may be divided into three patterns: first, there is a method to recreate collar, sleeves, cuffs, pocket and other usable pieces of old clothing to make a new one. Second method is about taking out usable parts of textile from various old clothing and make a new one with patchwork method. Third is about making a purse or fashion accessories using paper, vinyl, aluminum can or worn out leather. Fourth is about making a new artistic fashion by applying tearing, punching, fringing, mashing, and layering techniques. This study aim5 to help in spreading out and applying systematic practice of redesigned fashion for companies, and elaborate the sense of social responsibility for customers, and vitalize the fashion studies for redesigned fashion in academic sense.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.32-48
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• 2007

Korean traditional flower motifs have often been used in traditional embroidery on personal products and on decorations. The flower motifs seen on embroidery with a variety of techniques show the shapes and colors changing to more and more brilliant and colorful design. Even today the flower motifs in embroideries continue to be reinterpreted in both modern ways and also in traditional ways with their fancy beauty in the design industry. This research is based on documentary and demonstrative studies conducted to find out the formative properties of these motifs through and analyzing the shapes and colors of flower motif embroideries from the Choseon Dynasty as applied in developing modern designs in harmony with their traditional beauty. A summary of the research is as follows. First, the peony blossom appears the most, with its gorgeous flower shape. It was used in a variety of ways for decorative purposes as well as in wishing for wealth and harmony on clothes or on personal products. Second, the result of analyzing the flower motifs on embroidery shows that 'realistic-complex- flower patterns' and 'stylized-complex-flower patterns' are mostly seen. Third, many of the peony blossoms, chrysanthemums, and Japanese apricots were in a radial shape and front facing with stamens, and the lotus flowers were mostly shown on the lateral side. Fourth, as a result of analyzing the colors of the flower motifs on embroideries, a tendency is shown toward the R and RP colors of v, b tone and the shades YR, Y, GY, and G colors of lt and p tone.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.29-41
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• 2009

Perception between real object and recognized subject of human on objective subject is not the same. The reason Is that individual perception of visual design components are transmitted as the image of whole. It is required process of visual perception. Therefore, I developed the vision of seeing image of pattern which is based on Gestalt visual perception theory in clothes. The summary of this study's results is like followings. Extremely antagonistic terms which are specialized by formative characteristics of formative components are clearness and blur of outline/ fixed shape and non-fixed shape/ visuality and tangibility of representation/ simplicity and complexity of structure/ invariability and variability of mobility/ symmetry and asymmetry of arrangements singularity and plurality of group number. The expression of motive shows that clearness, fixed shape, visuality and simplicity pursuit Determination image, and blur, non-fixed shape, tangibility and complexity pursuit Ambiguity image. The arrangements of motive shows that invariability, symmetry and singularity pursuit Order image, and variability asymmetry and plurality pursuit Disorder image. Therefore, the standard of the coordinator of Pattern image positioning is established as Determination and Ambiguity of motive are X-axis, and Order and Disorder of pattern are Y-axis. As the frame of Pattern image positioning, four separated dimensions have made.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.5 s.84
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• pp.45-52
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• 2005

The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.120-133
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analysis types of light and to find the characteristics of light in contemporary fashion design. In a scientific context, light is electromagnetic radiation of a wavelength that has the characteristics of straightness, reflection, refraction, scattering and diffraction. But in philosophical speculations, light has been used as a metaphor of 'being', 'to-be' or 'enlightenment.' And through the ages, people have tried to represent and apply the light into plastic art like painting and architecture. The types of light in fashion design was categorized as those; reflective light from the surface of clothing which is the result of interaction between illumination and material, representative light as the pattern of light or light effect such as sun or its rays and optical or psychedelic patterns, luminescent light from light emitting material like phosphorescence or LED which combines into fashion design, projective light from a medium to reveal virtual patterns on the surface or a fashion design itself using holography. These lights in fashion design can be considered as reflection of emphasis of sexuality, longing for fantasy and mystique, visualization of interaction and communication and groping for the play.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.223-237
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• 2015

This study is to compare the pattern making methods of men's jeans and to analyze sizes of parts while also evaluating the appearance and fit according to a 3D virtual garment simulation. Five types of patterns are selected for the analysis. For the appearance evaluation, the study conducted a virtual clothing simulation, created a perspective drawing, and applied Clothing pressure to each test outfit. First, according to the pattern comparisons, A and D had the shortest crotch length, while B had the longest; B had the narrowest crotch width, while C had the widest; C had the greatest waist circumference, and B had the smallest; C had the greatest knee and hem circumference, while E had the smallest. Second, according to the appearance evaluation, E pants had the highest rating overall for the waist, crotch, knee, and hem comfort; A pants had the highest rating for the yoke line end and placement; and C pants had the highest rating for the side seam line. According to the correlation analysis, ease of the waist, hips, hem and thighs were important factors (in that order) in determining the overall appearance of the jean pants.