• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.1-15
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to find out the effect of clothing style and mixtures of stripe pattern direction, width, and coloration of an upper garment. The experimental materials made for this study are a set of stimuli and response scale(The 7-Point semantic). The subjects were 480 female undergraduate students in Seoul, Busan, Gyung-nam. The 80 stimuli which were variously incorporated with clothing styles and stipe patterns were assessed by the students. The following contents summarizes the results of the research. Impression factors of the stimuli consists of the 5 dimensions(Attractiveness, Show, Activity, Clearness, mildness). Amon these, the Attractiveness and Show dimensions proved to be more important. The clothing style and pattern direction indicated main effect in attractiveness and activity dimension. The pattern coloration showed a significant effect in dimensions except attractiveness and clearness. The pattern width had a significant effect only in the activity. Significant interaction effects of each clothing clause were found in the attractiveness, activity and clearness, but Show and mildness had no significant interaction effect. This research, as the 06 S/S, F/W trend, is a meaningful study in that it handled in the form of expression the stripe pattern used unrestrictedly in the casual wear or the formal wear by a fashion keyword.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.374-379
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• 2016

This study has investigated improvement points of existing products by analyzing problems of horseback riding pants sold in market and by investigating wearing feeling of horseback riders. The purpose of this study is to suggest horseback riding pants which fit to body types of Korean adult women and also have improved functionality by reflecting findings of the study. The contents of this study is believed to suggest useful results on improvement of horseback riding pants sold in market; (1) By visiting hands-on experiencing horseback riding facilities, questionnaire investigation was carried out and we find problems of existing horseback riding pants. (2) Materials, designs and patterns of products sold in market are analyzed for improvement of horse-riding pants appropriate for Korean adult women body types. (3) Based on the results of previous analysis, this study was investigated wearing satisfaction after manufacturing improved horseback riding pants. As results of investigating wearing feeling for products manufactured with pattern designs reflecting the analysis result of existing horseback riding clothes as well as wearing feeling of horseback riders, it was possible to prevent wounds of bodies after horseback riding and the riders expressed high satisfaction for the products manufactured based on the research results.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.269-276
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• 2012

The aim of this study is to develop clothing size system according to each size interval for obese girls aged 10~12 by classifying the upper bodies. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. Results are as follows; 1st, 5 factors were extracted by factor analysis and 3 clusters were categorized by cluster analysis, cylinder-type, inverted triangle-type and inverted trapezoid-type. And 2nd, as a consequence of size system establishment, the basic body sizes and reference body sizes were different according to types even in commonly-appeared size names at sections of respective types. The research findings above suggest that it is necessary to figure out the obesity types according to height and bust girth sizes representing basic sizes and to design the patterns in consideration of the characteristics of obese body shapes. And it may be used as a basic data to decide the desirable output of production according to respective body types.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.211-221
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• 2012

The word 'chintz' is thought to be a corruption of spotted cloth. Printing remained a relatively primitive method of decorating textiles in Europe until the second half of the 17th century. The formation of the English East India Company sparked the influx into the West of painted and printed Indian cotton textiles. A William Sherwin took out the first English patent in 1676. The earlist European designs were florals in the Indian manner. Patterns of European flowers returned to England as birds, flowers, trees, vines and stained glass for Victorian chintz. In France, the original and most successsful manufacturer of the distinctive printed fabrics from Jouy was Christophe Philippe Oberkampf. Copperplate printing was introduced to Jouy in 1770, probably reaching the pinnacle of achievement in the craft after 1783 when Jean-Baptiste Huet became chief designer. Huet's style was widely imitated in France and abroad, and the term 'toile de Jouy' has come to be universally applied to monochrome figurative designs wherever and by whomsoever they were produced. Oberkampf served his apprenticeship as an engraver with some leading manufacturers, including a period in Mulhouse. In Alsace, which was not part of France until 1798, the first factory had opened in 1746 in Mulhouse, and the area soon had the largest number of print-works in France.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.203-210
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• 2012

This study, focusing on the costumes of Kouge in the era of Kamakura and the end of Heian in Japan, aims to explore the aspects and characteristics of the costumes that were developed under political, economical, and social circumstances. The findings are the following. Male costumes include Sokdae, Pogo, Euigwan, Jikeui, Sueui, and Sugan, while female costumes include Shipidan, Sogyu, Sejang, and Hansam. Different clothes of Kuge were chosen depending on the types and purposes of the occasions: full dress and Yahkjang, a semi-dress, for a ceremonial purpose, street costume for a personal visit purpose, outdoor clothing for hunting and outdoor activities, Cheongjangsok, and Sukjikjangsok. In these various types of clothes we can assume the elegant life of aristocratic class of Kouge. In addition, different fabrics, patterns, and dresses were chosen depending on the grade of ranks of Kouge, so that Kouge can differentiate their ranks, keep the order of the ranks, and enhance their authority by themselves. With the advent in the era of Kamakura, the power of Kouge was weakened and their clothes underwent changes, some types of clothes were omitted or simplified or the clothes of subordinates were worn. In addition, when new forces appeared and new clothes came about, there were changes in the purpose and the wearer of the clothes: from ordinary clothes to official clothes, from the clothes of lower class to the clothes of higher class, and from Sukjikjangsok to Cheongjangsok.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.504-513
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• 2013

This study evaluates the difference of visual effect according to pant style and geometric pattern. The researcher made 28 stimuli-combination of four pant Stiles (classic, baggy, skinny, and bell-bottom) and seven geometric pattern (large vertical stripe, small vertical stripe, large horizontal stripe, small horizontal stripe, large check, small check, and hound's tooth check). The test involved 96 female college students. The stimuli were made with the i-Designer computer program. The panels tested the computer screen images of all manikins wearing pants. A 7-point scale was used to evaluate each image. For the data analysis, ANOVA and Duncan-test were applied along with an SPSS program. The results of this study are as follows. Three factors (lower-body compensation, abdomen highlight, and length compensation) influenced the visual effect pant styles and geometric patterns. The skinny style and large vertical stripe evaluated positively in elongated height and leg length and a slimmer overall body. It was shown that the vertical stripe pattern was evaluated as more positive than the horizontal stripe pattern in the visual effect; particularly, the results showed distinct aspects in the classic pants style. The mutual influence of the visual effect (according to pants style and geometric pattern) were indicated as two factors of lower-body compensation and length compensation. A more positive visual effects resulted in a higher mutual influence on pant style and geometric pattern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.595-601
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• 2017

Advances in 3D garment simulation technology contribute greatly to consumers becoming more immersed in movies and games by realistically expressing the garments the characters in the movie or game are wearing. The fashion industry has reached a point where it needs to maximize efficiency in production and distribution to go beyond time and space in order to compete on the global market. The processes of design and product development in the fashion industry require countless hours of work and consume vast resources in terms of materials and energy to repeat sample production and assessment. Therefore, the design and product development tools and techniques must aim to reduce the sample making process. Therefore, this study aims to study a case for comparing the real garment sample making process to the virtual garment sample making process. In this study, we have analysed the differences between the real and virtual garment making processes by choosing designated patterns. As we can see from the study results, the real and virtual garments generally are made through similar processes in manufacturing, while the time consumed for each shows great variation. In real garment making, scissoring and sewing require the greatest number of work hours, whereas in virtual garment making, most of the time was spent in the simulation process.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.1-19
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• 2018

Unlike other ready-made suits, which are normalized based on aspects like, designs, materials, sewing methods, has to be worn for three years, designing and pattern development of school uniform depends greatly on satisfaction and appearance. Furthermore, school uniform is of importance as many teenagers spend most of their time at school. In the present work, an attempt has been made to suggest ideal school uniform for female middle school students based on their actual uniform conditions and design preferences, so that the demands of artistic aspect, and the requirements of a suitable uniform for a female teenager can be fulfilled. Initially, a survey about the actual wearing condition was held to figure out the actual uniform conditions and design preferences. Based on the result of the survey, two types of school uniform were made with different patterns. Finally, the most ideal school uniform for female middle school students was suggested based on the experiment involving a few aspects such as suitability and functionality. It is conjectured that school uniform survey and investigation, could provide useful information to the school uniform business market.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.787-795
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• 2003

This research studied several somatotypes for children's upper bodies in order to suggest the basic data of bodice patterns of children's clothing. By extracting the component factors from the children's bodices, they were classified into several somatotypes to recognize an individual body type. Three hundred and fifty eight children's wears were estimated as research objects to analyze their somatotypes for the 44 items representing upper bodies through anthropometric measurement and photometric measurement. The results are as follows : 1. Seven factors were extracted as a result of factor analysis. 2. Data were classified into three types as a result of cluster analysis : Type 1 was characterized as low fat body, small skeleton size, and forward belly ; type 2 as high fat body, normal hight, backward shoulder, and the lowered shoulders ; type 3 as medium fat body, tall height, somewhat crouching back, and the rising shoulders. 3. As a results of the discrimination analysis for the three types, the highly discriminated items were height, width of bosom, front center length. weight, width of waist or the length of waist. One could discriminate one's own body type by obtaining the classification function from these five items.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.