• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.468-479
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• 2019

This study used a three-dimensional-analysis method to quantitatively analyze the change of clothing appearance according to a gusset added to bodice and sleeve patterns for men in their twenties. Comparing six different patterns, the study found that patterns P1 and P2 with little gusset did not have a large difference in the strain map, and pattern P6 had no gusset in the motion of raising the arm $28^{\circ}$ to the side (M1). When the arm was raised $45^{\circ}$ to the side (M2), the P1 pattern had the smallest deformation, and only the P5 pattern had a large deformation from the neck to the armhole area. In contrast, except for in the P3 pattern, large wrinkles formed in the front and back when the arm was raised above $158^{\circ}$ (M3) from the side of the waist to the armpit. In addition, P3 had the smallest change in the hem of the bodice and sleeves. However, the appearance of P2, P3, and P5 was excellent when the arm was moved forward (M4), and the P2 and P5 patterns were the smallest at the bodice and sleeve hem. The P6 pattern showed the least fitness in terms of function. In the case of raising the arm, there was a strong correlation between gusset size and motion function, but when the motion of the arm changed, the motion function did not improved just by changing the ease size.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.62-71
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• 2008

Costume elements are closely related with human living environment and also play an important role in the costume patterns. The East and the West have influenced and adopted each other's culture through mutual trade, which are well reflected in costume patterns and textile patterns. These days world wide fashion shows the designs applying costume details of the East and the West, which is much affected by the orientalism. The purpose of this study is to compare the sleeve patterns which take an important part in women's costume design of the Joseon Dynasty and the European Monarchy in the 16th century. Korean women's costume showed sleeves in rectangular shape with same width and long length, together with cuffs. Later they changed to diagonal shape of getting narrower toward the wrist. Western women's costume showed sleeves with puff and slash patterns. Then they were classified into French, British and Spanish styles which were getting narrower toward the wrist. Later they adopted the shape of leg of mutton which was puffed in middle and narrower toward the wrist. I n Korea and Europe, they showed respective changes in sleeve patterns, but also similarity of getting narrower toward the wrist. The East and the West are now exchanging their culture in every aspect such as politics, economics and social matters. Costume fashion is not an exception. The characteristic designs of traditional costumes are shown on global fashion, which is influenced by the orientalism.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.167-177
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• 2011

As today the world has been globalized, each country and race has been trying its best to preserve and develop its own unique culture to have its identity. Same exertion has been added in the areas of fashion and textile such as developing traditional textile or fabrics and applying them to the materials of modem fashion. The Korean traditional gold foil is one of invaluable cultural heritages, and another means to elevate the wearer's social status, and its beauty and artistic quality is very excellent. So, in order to preserve and develop of the Korean traditional gold foil, the exertion of developing the gold foil into multi-purpose modem fashion material which is endurable and practical by using the image of Korean traditional gold foil should be done. The purposes of this study are to preserve Korean traditional gold foil, to develop Korean textile and fashion industry by utilizing Korean traditional gold foil images in modem fashion. The results are as follows: textile designs applied plant motives of Korean traditional gold foil were carried out, modem fashion materials of Korean traditional gold foil image were developed by Jacquard weave. They were to certify that those were registered on the register of the Korean of design registrations from commissioner the Korean Intellectual Property Office, and developed fabrics of Korean gold foil image were examined the utility for modern fashion materials through using them in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion items.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.371-384
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• 2011

This study with 'trip' as a theme, aims to develop textile designs and fashion bags for travel which is widely applicable fitting traveler's T P O, applying Victor Vasarely's artwork. During the planning process of design, 'Whenever & Wherever's concept was set by analyzing fashion trend information in 2010-11 F/W proposed by Interfashion Planning and FCK; in addition, 'Bobos' were selected as research targets. It organized 4 images of 'Modern', 'Romantic', 'Classic' and 'Fantastic'. The motives are proposed textile design with '$Cross^2$', 'Falling Z', 'Cir-Classicism' and 'Skinny-holic' per each theme. The designs developed were printed out and into polyester canvas with a Polaris V6 DTP from dgen, Corp. Textile designs developed were applied for 'two-way' formed fashion bags for traveling with high practicality. Fashion bags for traveling consisted of big bags, tote bags, and hip sacks; a total of 12 works (4 sets per theme) were produced. This study sought practical plans for artworks by producing fashion goods through a DTP system. The results of this study can be used as guidelines for further studies and as a significant contribution to the creation of high values for exciting fashion products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.741-756
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• 2017

The natural resources of Jeju are recognized as the new regional image of that clean island. Reflecting these trends, this study is initiated to develop a textile design with the motive of persimmon, a natural resource of Jeju, and to apply it to infant's and children's clothes. Its purpose is to highlight the image of persimmon, a traditional dye, as a regional signature for Jeju. Product development procedure included, understanding the use of persimmon for fashion products, analyzing Infants' and Children's designer collections over the last three seasons (focused on 2014S/S, 2015S/S, and 2016S/S), and surveying the Children's Clothes market for persimmon dyeing in Jeju. The conclusion was that, the natural resources of Jeju are highly valuable, and should be applied to textile design and apparel products for children. Utilizing Jeju persimmon was actively studied, but, the market for the Jeju persimmon natural - dyeing products is extremely limited. Moreover, the apparel products for infants and children represent old-fashioned styles, despite their higher prices. Therefore, using the formative characteristics of persimmon for each theme was suggested for development of patterns for textile design. Pattern designs were expressed using textured textile screen-printing, embroidery and $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ for infants' and children's clothes. In this study, a total of 10 items were prepared as apparel products for infants and children. All items were designed considering mix-and-match, potential, with each other or with regular mass-market products. These results are expected to contribute to highlighting the unique image of Jeju and to help promote fashion culture products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.97-108
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• 2004

This study was conducted to examine the marking efficiency of a dress pattern in order to reduce textile loss by pattern marking. A basic one-piece dress pattern saved to the Yuka CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marking efficiency in different conditions. Condition of marking experiment is made it a rule to use 150cm textile width and apply 44, 55, 66 pattern size for three pieces of a dress patterns. The results of the study indicated that the marking efficiency rates of the dress pattern with a separate facing was higher than the one with a self facing. In the dress pattern with a separate facing, the separated seam at center back was appeared to have a higher marking efficiency than the extended seam. It was also found that the efficiency rate was higher in the pattern with a seam at center back when comparing with the dress pattern without a seam. When the marking with a horizontally-loaded collar was compared with a vertically-loaded collar, the efficiency rate was higher for the collar loaded horizontally, The result of the study showed that the type of facing, the location of a seam, and the direction of collar loading were the factors directly related to increasing marking efficiency. The dress patterns marked efficiently in terms of a type of facing, seam, and collar treatment can reduce fabric loss and also shorten the time needed for marking process.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.898-905
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• 2012

This paper develops fashion products that express the beauty of Baekje through an investigation of the unique characteristics of Baekje artifacts. This work can promote the Baekje region and provide cultural goods for local festivals to improve the economic competitiveness of the area. Artifacts from the Muryongwangreung in Gongju (the capital city of Baekje during the Woongjin period)were reinterpreted into a more modern form. Among the Muryongwangreung artifacts, the king and queen's gold coffin as well as chignon ornaments were used as design motifs. These artifacts were stylized into motifs and developed into patterns using Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3. The patterns were subsequently applied to the designs of scarves and ties. The color was selected using the CMYK colorway from the Gongju city logo subsequently, a total of 12 designs (including 6 ties and 6 scarves) were developed. The design developed from this research can be applied to diverse products to promote the area. Using the research as a foundation, fashion product development based on the local culture can have a significant impact on the establishment of the Baekje cultural identity and the competitiveness of the region.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.796-811
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• 2010

Research materials of Korean traditional shoes have so far been mainly literary explanations or plane pictures expressed on the basis of the explanations and photographs of incomplete forms of relics excavated and it makes us have difficulty in observing them visually and producing products with them by design application. This project is to establish database of literal data of Korean traditional shoes and visual data using 3D in order to make the foundation of developing culture industry contents using Korean traditional shoes. According to the initial research plan. first. it analyzed and arranged the Korean traditional shoes into period. sex and function as the research goals of the first year. categorized the form. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes and then database of the materials was performed with text. Second. visual image materials including forms. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes were established as database with scanner. digital camera and computer 2D. Results of such a database will be able to be used as important materials which can be the foundation of culture industry contents development of traditional shoes and be the materials for developing digital culture contents of traditional shoes and teaching Korean traditional culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.776-788
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• 2019

This study developed an ergonomic Korean female military winter jacket and (inner and outer) pattern in in order to increase dimension and operational suitability for military missions. First we developed the 1st development pattern and sample jackets with improved dimensions and operational suitability based on a previous investigation of fitness and motion suitability of Korean female military winter jackets (inner and outer) and motion suitability by a wearing test. The evaluation result of fitness for the 1st development pattern were over 4.0 (5.0 Likert scale) for both the inner and outer jacket, a positive result and the result of motion suitability were over 3.5 in both the inner and outer jacket except for the neck front part by collar height. However, we did not modify the collar height because decreases in warmth and military regulations. We also evaluated appearance by experts that showed good results in both the inner and outer jacket. Finally, we developed a final pattern based on evaluation results and military regulations. Existing military uniform research was conducted mainly on male soldiers. Beginning with this study, we expect to expand research on the development of military uniform patterns suitable for a female soldier body type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.561-569
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• 2020

In this study, the dyeing of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne alone and the combined dyeing of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell were first performed to compare dyeing properties. A combination extract of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell can be expected to improve coloration. A Hanbok design for children used a natural dyeing fashion dyeing method to make the Chrysanthemum pattern. Chrysanthemum indicum Linne is a type of wild chrysanthemum with various medicinal effects for headache and stress relief, skin diseases, insomnia and depression. Widely used onion shells have medicinal properties that help prevent and treat various adult diseases. The colors of silk dyed exclusively by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne, and the colors of silk dyed by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extract are yellow; in addition, silk dyed by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extracts were almost all unchanged. Four hanboks, which are comfortable for children to wear and use, were produced using Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extracts. If children wear hanbok fashion products with auspicious patterns, they can provide a chance to simultaneously experience the traditional symbolism of Korean patterns and culture. In addition, it is expected to develop pride in traditional dress culture.