• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.39-47
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of alkali treatment on EG solution of polyester/silk union cloth(P/S cloth) . Tensile strength, moisture regain, crease resistance, and reduction ratio of the treated P/S cloth were measured. The results of this study were as follows ： 1) The weight loss of P/S cloth treated with EG solution was three times higher than those of P/S cloth treated with $H_2O$. The weight loss of P/S cloth was increased greatly with increasing concentration of NaOH, temperature, and time. Favorable weight reduction of treating condition could be obtained when lower concentration of NaOH was used with longer time. 2) If it was added $H_2O$ on EG solution, weight loss of polyester increased, while those of silk decreased. In addition, decreasing ratio of tensile strength warp direction (polyester) was lower, while those of weft direction(silk) was higher. 3) Moisture regain of P/S cloth treated with EG solution increased with weight loss up to 10% . Crease resistance of P/S cloth was the highest at weight loss of 10~15%.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.387-392
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• 1999

The effects of the ratio of warp diameter to filling diameter (${\beta}$-ratio) and warp thread crash on the crimp factor and the yarn curvature were studied theoretically in this paper. The models of 2/2 twill fabric derived square cloth and sinusoidal curved cloth were used for the theoretical analysis. The crimp factors (C) for the models were given theoretically as follows; (1) Derived square cloth(general equation for b) $$C=\frac{(1+{\beta})({\theta}-sin{\theta})}{(1+{\beta})sin{\theta}+{\alpha}}$$ (2) Sihusoidal curved cloth $$C=\frac{(1+{\beta})sin{\theta}\[1+\{\frac{{\pi}(1-cos{\theta})}{4sin{\theta}}\}^2\]+{\alpha}}{(1+{\beta})sin{\theta}+{\alpha}}-1$$ The curvatures(${\kappa}$) for the models were given theoretically as follows; (1) Derived square cloth $${\kappa}=\frac{2}{d_w+d_f}$$ (2) Sinusoidal curved cloth $${\kappa}=\|{^{\;\;\prime\prime} \atop r}(s)\| \\ where \;s=\frac{p^'}{{\pi}}\(u+\frac{k^2u}{4}+\frac{k^2}{8}sin2u\)$$.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.303-309
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• 2006

This study intended to compare and analyze marking efficiencies of basic slacks, based on different cloth and production conditions, the width of cloth, the number of marking pieces and the direction for marking deployment and proposed an efficient marking method. The results were as follows. On the whole, the marking efficiencies increased with increasing cloth widths. In the case of small number of marking pieces, the efficiency increased with increasing cloth widths, while, for large number of marking pieces, there was no differences in the efficiency with the cloth widths. From the result of the comparison of the marking efficiencies with the number of marking pieces, it was shown that, in the case of small cloth width, the efficiency increased considerably with increasing number of marking pieces, while, in the case of large cloth width over two markers, there was no distinct effect of the number of markers on the marking efficiency. Thought there were some differences of the marking efficiencies with the marker directions, bi-direction marker was the most efficient marker, followed by one-direction for each size marker and one-direction marker.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.56-69
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• 2018

Tuban area in East Java, Indonesia, has a role as one of international ancient trading ports since 11th century. For that role, Tuban has accepted many foreign cultures that are brought by other nations, such as Tionghoa and Gujarat. The improvement of Tuban that involves international relationship clearly influences the forms of tradition and culture that is shown in Tuban nowadays. It is believed that from those tradition and cultures owned by people of Tuban, producing cloth is one of the oldest tradition maintained by the people. Those clothes, as one of traditional products, have unique identity that differ them to other regions. It is because the uniqueness of people's knowledge about cosmology concept, and skill owned by the people that passes through generations. This research explains the condition of traditional cloth tradition of Tuban society with fundamental ground data and explains elements that intervenes the tradition, and forms resulted from it.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.266-274
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• 2004

This study is on the sensitive image of pattern expressed in the color & formative types of traditional Jokakbo(scraps of cloth). The object of this research is Korean traditional scraps of cloth in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty. This study is to be classified into 10 formative types like square type 1, square type 2, diagonal type, diamond type, many color striped type, concentric circle type, pinwheel type, vertical line type, cintamani pattern type, and free style type to apply the design of Jokakbo to Korean design. And color group is divided into vivid tone and pale tone. And it constitutes 17 patterns from the combination of these two types. As for the factors of constitution of scraps of cloth, it consists of factors like revelation, attraction, temperature sense, abstract, and rigidity. In the emotional image in the patterns, both vivid tone and pale tone showed dynamic and warm emotion together. Also, the factors of revelation and attraction were evaluated as opposite images, and it evaluated the plain and dim emotion as more attractive emotion. They preferred the pale tone to the vivid tone. They preferred the cintamani pattern in the vivid tone, and the diamond pattern in the pale tone most. From the research result above, this study made the abstract image of scraps of cloth standardized and prepared for a basis to execute it essentially. This research will be used as basic data to make traditional Korean image spotlighted in the world fashion markets as well as it will be helpful to the development of pattern design for the scraps of cloth essentially.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.349-357
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to examine how deconstruction, which currently had a great deal of influence on fashion, was actually accepted in view of fashion form or material. In order to track the tendency of deconstructional fashion, an attempt to find out what deconstructional methods were used in fashion design for each formative element was made by looking into earlier studies. Then an analysis was made over the recent fashion magazines. As a result of analyzing four fashion magazines, the most distinctive feature was found to be the use of seethrough cloth. In addition, unsymmetrical form also was immensely used. The next most frequently appeared form was layering, followed by slash or making a hole, lingerie look, padded cloth, indeterminate form, wrinkled cloth and patchworked cloth in the order named. The dominant layering style, the most widely used deconstructional fashion, was that inner cloth could be seen through outer seethrough cloth. The most frequently employed deconstructional cloth was seethrough cloth. Rather than complete seethrough cloth, the shape of lace, net or pattern was employed largely, in which the body could be partially hidden. The most largely used deconstructional method was a slash or making a hole. Most slashes appeared on the front part of the body, to which seethrough stuff was attached in many cases. Based on the above mentional finding. 10 kinds of deconstructional design were proposed for each method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.891-909
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• 2019

This study uses a documentary survey, field survey and textile's characteristics to understand the history of the Punggi Viscose Rayon. Punggi's textile industry grew as people migrated from Pyeongan Province in the 1900s. Little is known regarding early production conditions, but documents show cottage industries in the 1940s made union cloth using silk and rayon. The Punggi weaving industry peaked after the Korean War and declined in the late 1950s. Punggi rayon at that time was mainly used for lingerie or lining, with miliary or polka dot patterns. The industry regained momentum when the power loom was introduced in the 1960s. Manufacturers also started weaving union cloth with synthetic fibers and rayon. In the 1990s, jacquard looms enabled the weaving of elaborately colored and patterned textiles for outer fabric that made Punggi rayon famous. Most Punggi rayon looms have developed in the order of manual handlooms, semiautomatic looms, Jokdapgi, to power looms. Looms equipped with dobbies or jacquard devices also changed from wooden dobby looms to wooden jacquard looms and then to iron jacquard looms. Punggi Rayon currently has its own trademark and tag, but lacks specific regulations on the blending of fibers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.785-798
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• 2004

Silk has always been coveted as the finest and richest of all fibers woven into cloth. The earlist woven silk fragments found to date come from the third century B.C. The filament created and spun into cocoon by the larva of the silk moth, silk was exported from China to Europe from as early as the third century B.C. Silk industry is export leading industry that guide national textile industry development after the 1960s in Korea. Korean silk industry reached to peak at 1975 is displaying appearance that export scale is decreased recently. Various kinds methods can be proposed for high value added in silk industry, the research about color is essential. The importance of color is increasing in modern textile and fashion industry. Color is important factor of textile and fashion industry because color affects strong influence in human's sensitivity. Silk fabric can give high added value developing high sensitivity color because dye ability is superior. In this study I planned the "Utility Silk Color Code 288" for efficient color management in silk industry. "Utility Silk Color Code 288" are attached the Munsell notation and dyeing data which can reappear the color when needed. This research constructs for insufficient domestic color infrastruction and expect that basic role to develop the competitive power for Korean silk industry.

• Journal of the Economic Geographical Society of Korea
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.492-511
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• 2013

According to IASB(International Accounting Standards Board), R&D(Research and Development) is defined as a tertiary sector industry combining research and development. Many studies investigated R&D industry clusters in the form of high-tech cluster(Coe et al., 2007). However, these studies only generalized various spatial cluster of R&D industries. In particular, the studies could not considers cluster formation process over time lacking statistical significance in space-time perspectives. This study, therefore, indicates the limitation of recent R&D cluster literature which only considers either time or space. In addition, this study explores space-time clusters in R&D industry together with textile and cloth industry for comparison. Discovering the existence and location of clusters, this study utilized space-time K function and space-time scan statistics. The result shows that R&D industry presents significant clusters only in spatial dimension. No significant clusters were found in space-time dimension. However, textile and clothing industry presents significant clusters in both spatial and space-time dimensions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.560-565
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• 2008

Plantae of the natural material has been broadly used on cloth dyeing by it's specific properties such as eco-friendly and innoxious. However dyeing with natural material on synthetic fiber is nearly impossible due to poor affinity between natural material and synthetic fiber. The method which is binding with micro-capsulized natural material to cloth, used in this study, has low change on quality by external influence. Also this method has high ability in spray effect by broken capsule which comes to pressure and friction when the treated cloth was dressed. And this method is applicable widely from natural fiber to synthetic fiber. The purpose of this study is to develop the multi-functional synthetic material with micro-capsulized Ginseng on PET. Moreover, it was driven by comparison of colormetric properties and fastness between regular dip-dyeing method and binding with micro-capsulized material method. Dyeability showed a little bit low exhaustion but the PET treated by micro-capsule was more or less better than the dip dyed PET. Through the SEM(Scanning Electron Microscope) of PET treated by micro-capsule, it has good residence of capsules even after 5 or 10 times washing. Wash and light fastness were revealed some different grades by each condition but showed high level, in most and the micro-capsulized PET was more improver than regular dip dyed PET.