• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.1 s.59
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• pp.157-166
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• 2005

The purpose of the study is to understand the symbolic meaning of jewelry. Among various characteristics of symbols, the symbolic meaning represents the correlation between meanings. Wearing jewelry is an instinctive action that can be witnessed from ancient civilizations. Man used jewelry for various purposes, as an ornament, an amulet, a symbol of wealth or power or as a token of love. In this study, I have researched the symbolic meaning of jewelry in its historic background focusing on rings that show the strongest symbolic characteristic among jewelries. Whereas the symbolic meaning of jewelry was strongly accentuated in the ancient and medieval times, it was gradually weakened in the modern time. Also, while jewelry in the ancient and medieval times showed commonness and universality, jewelry in modern time expressed individuality. Although the meaning of jewelry changed progressively by interacting with the external environment, jewelry has always roused sense and symbolism from our hearts and has acted as a means to express ideas and emotions of human beings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.2 s.24
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• pp.37-55
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• 1987

Pasul (Herein after referred to Korean-styled Pasul) to cover up the secrets, which has originated from Bool-an original mode of clothes is to put around a belt with a kind of towel. With the development of culture, it has been handed down the parts of ornamental and symbolic functions, losted its particular and original one. In general, we cannot exactly show when the Pasul has been used as a ritual dress, but, dare to maintain in this thesis, which has been used in Koguryu era. This thesis is summarized as follows: 1. The Bool, which is the first dress of all has its origin in the prehistory, and gradually has developed to a ceremonial dress with the help of man's intelligence. 2. Korean-styled Pasul has continuously been handed down from generation to generation (to adding up, from Koguryu era to Yi dynasty). Today, the color of the Pasul is known as a pink one, but I, herein, would like to refer that king Kojong in Yi dynasty had on a yellow-colored Pasul. 3. With becoming to be a form of ceremonial dress, the Bool has become to be complicated in style. For example, in the Koguryu era, the style is in the form of 'U,' and in Koryu era, it is the echelon formation tinting a pink color and weaving a mountain and flare shaped designs, and its dimension, the upper is one ja (a ja means a unit of length, 0.33 M), the lower, two ja, its length three ja. The Bool of Yi dynasty tints a pink color, and weaves a seaweeds, rices, axes and shaped designs. The Pasul which King Kojong in Yi dynasty put in, was a yellow-colored one weaving dragons and fire shaped design. 4. The Pasul is a ceremonial dress used a ritual or court dress. The purposes of wearing it are to distinguish the upper from the lower classes, to make them abide by regulations, and to respect courtesy. Accordingly, the Pasul. as the dress for special occassions does make us review the old and learn the new. 5. The reason that Pasul has been handed down are: 1) richness and fecundity. 2) symbol mark to represent classicalism. 3) to symbolize the authority by putting on it, for it is necessary to distinguish the upper from the lower classes along with the class consciousness in society. 6. On the basis of the study, the Pasul transition is to be handed down the function of the ornament and symbol. after losted its original functions, with the development of culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.117-142
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• 1997

This study is on perfume case that is one of a great number of ornaments which was designed by out ancestors. We had developed the tradition and the history of perfume case bag fan-weight etc. These have the same function as the present perfume. case. There were basket-shaped perfume cases which were the smellest one among the personal girdle ornaments in the silla era. The various patterned perfume case were made of gold metal coral platinum or green jadeite etc. In the single-crop trinkets a embroidered perfume bag with the gold and silver thread whose forms perfectly match their functions appeared during the Yi Dynasty. There was also a perfume bag which was one of the daily necessities. A precious "jul perfume" was carried by noble women. A fan-weight perfume bag was attached to the fan to emphasize the intrinsic beauty of utility and function. It is necessary to know the function of prefume case. As perfume case is weared on the clothes it was given more decorative effects as well as the function of medicinal amulet with a sweet smell. Therefore it is very important for us to study perfume case that has various function as an ornament. So The purpose of this study is to investigate the practical and decorative side of perfume case with the general examines of perfume finding how to practice use through our life. The results were as follows; 1. The first use of perfume is perfume through smoke which is for ceremony of religion It removes human body odor by degrees and spreads a sweet odor. Also the materials for making perfume of early age is aromatic plants which will be used flour-made flowers stems. As the materials for making perfume use is increasing today we can invent alcohol perfume today 2. Our country the custom of perfume-used is wide. Among them men's perfume-used was very special phenomenon. For example men were wearing perfume bag in the Silla era. Because perfume represented wealth and noble in those days. They shew off social position personality through perfume-used. 3. One of early religion ceremony article there was the perfume. And perfume case was means for containing perfume. Gradually the perfume case was used widly as increasing needs of perfume in human life. 4. In the middle period of 'Koryo' Dynasty perfume cases had a close relationship with clothes but after Mongolian has been attacked 'Koryo' there were changes in wearing clothes therefore the position of perfume cases were transfered to coat string that was the origin of decoration style that they began. That is to say the perfume case has been influenced the position of perfume case shapes with changing of fashion. 5. The perfume case has been made manifest various function as an ornament. In the practical side First medical-perfume in perfume case has been played an important role in first-aid medicine in critical condition. Second it was amulet for self protection. That is the shape pattern color materials perfume of the perfume case was represented the amuletive nature. Third it was used as substitute article of perfume. Modern women use liquid-perfume as our ancestors used perfume case bag or jul perfume As started above. Also In the decorative side the perfume case has a beautiful formative arts by itself as well as a close relationship with clothes. That well as a close relationship with clothes. That is when the perfume case is worn on the clothes costume is showed aesthetices. That is the materials shapes color pattern of the perfume case we can see the visual beauty also the materials colors embroidered pattern knots tassel that are used the perfume case are increased the decorative beauty of costume. Sixth the symbol in pattern of the pattern case is shown ancetor's wealth and rank health longevity immortality many-born-boy in those days. Today the perfume case is not used with changing of costume by degrees, Accordingly I hope that the result of this study is an influened in devlopment of the perfume case design with matching the modern fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.122-142
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• 2003

This study examines the meaning of retro phenomenon and its background of establishment that showed in the pop culture. And it finds out the retro phenomena in the domestic fashion trends. And it defines the characteristics of dress and its ornament in the retro phenomena that have shown in the Korean movies since 1998. By doing this, it examines the relationship between movie dress and street fashion while it compares the styles in the 50s 70s with the retro fashion that is currently emerging. The results of the study are as follows. First, the hippie look in the 60s represented a distinctive characteristic of how they rejected traditional lifestyles. Hippie's romantic femininity that showed in the movie of 'Oollala Sisters' received a spotlight as a necessary style in the modern fashion trend. Second, while the funk look in the 70s was a style of disorder and disgust, the movie gives it a possibility of fashion with a converted sense as a vanguard fashion while embracing the funk look. Third, the layered look in the 70s was expressed with layered items, while the current layered look emphasizes layered textiles as shown in the movie of 'Hae-Jeok Became The Disco King'. Fourth, the feminine look which was a symbol of restraint shows a mixed style with delicate feminine items as shown in the movies, 'The Harmonium In My Memory' and 'Ditto'. Fifth, the training look that has two stripes as shown in the movie 'the Friends' is considered as casual wear, which is functional and easy to move at the end of the 20th century. Finally, the romantic images of school look, as shown in the movies 'the Friends' and 'Hae-Jeok Became The Disco King', show a renewed mixed & unique style. This study has its significance in the sense that it verifies the fact that the movie dress does not show the characteristics of the works that momentarily passes the screen, but it becomes a foundation of the future fashion design. At this time that Korean movies are highly developing, a through study on the movie fashion will not only give a direction of future in the modern fashion, but it will also give a developing momentum in the Korean movie dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.65-87
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• 1982

1. Purpose: The purpose is to apply and adapt ancient textile pattern to practical life, and to contribute to the promotion of the creative development of modernization and Koreanization of textile pattern by the survey of the extent of taste for the textile pattern existent in Korean costume among costumes. 2. Hypothesis: Textile pattern is in most classical one expressed in fact, but nowadays abstract or geometric one is more exist. Consumers are in most part in forties, and so the taste cannot be ignored. Therefore aesthetic consciousness found Korean costume is more important rather than excessively bold or mordern one. 3. Method and Process: (1) This research is analysed 386 one through college student and parents of a primary or high school. (2) Taste of the pattern is comparisoned and analyzed as age. education, pocket money of the student or an income of a month in home through computer. And the analysis of the statistics research is operation through the Chi-Square Goodness of-Fit-Test. 4. Conclusion: (1) The Korean costume put on mostly party or formal dress, therefore it should be researched as an outdoor dress with traditional costume. (2) The most one is concerned in textile pattern, it's taste is different from color, constitution. Textile industry is developed not only weave pattern, gold-coverning pattern but embroidry pattern, dye pattern, therefore the various side of pattern design should be researched. (3) In Side of form, plant pattern is not only most various but highest in popularity. According to approach nowadays, all of the pattern becomes composition or geometric one with abstract tendency and so from these day pattern is necessary combinationed, researched with our people emotion. (4) The color of textile pattern is choiced individual taste. Through investige, research in various side of the modern taste and our costume, we take growing interest in the color, composition of textile, and should dressed with beauty and grace. (5) In side of size, textile pattern is choiced to individual face and body shape through research on form, color, size of these pattern, we should endeavor to dress well. (6) In side of application, most people is concerned in not only interior ornament but the costume is high. Costume research by some people of the outside and symbol with interior through the pattern analysis is not only very important but also is due to people culture.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.8
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• pp.63-94
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• 2005

ChangSayng-Do in the late Chosun dynasty was a kind of traditional painting which sublimated the philosophy and emotion of everyday life into an aesthetic consciousness through a long history of Korean people . It would represent a human wish and desire to live a long and healthy life, which was implicated by way of Taoism. The major themes of ChangSayng-Do - mountains, the sun, cloud, water, rock, deer, tortoises, cranes, pine trees, bamboos, peaches, and herbs of eternal youth - were all symbols used. to wish for a long-life and immortality in real world. All or some of these items were represented in paintings, which resulted in the various kinds of ChangSayng-Do. The main concern of this thesis will be centered around the naturalistic subjects shown in ChangSayng-Do. This thesis consists of four chapters. The first chapter describes the purpose of and need for the research, and its method and scope. The second chapter deals with the origin and style of ChangSayng-Do, and the background of its formation. It is found out that the formative characteristic of ChangSayng-Do lies in the archetype, the unity of man and nature following the traditional view of nature. It is also found out that ChangSayng-Do implied the notions of Supernatural Being, Yin-Yang and Five Elements, Taoism, and Confucianism as well as Korean shamanism. Third chapter is largely about an analytic investigation into symbolic visualization of ChangSayng-Do. Firstly, the subject matters shown in ChangSayng-Do consist of items of wishful omen for long-life and good luck, and any motif in a picture implies a symbolism of eternal youth and long-life. Secondly, the view of colors shown in ChangSayng-Do is closely connected to Five Elements and Five Direction, a traditional oriental philosophy of universe, and these symbolic colors are based on shamanism and Yin/Yang-Five Elements. According to an iconological analysis, it is confirmed that these viewpoints are consistent with formative principles and expressive methods of ChangSayng-Do to some extent. The fourth chapter is one of the most important elements for visualization of ChangSayng-Do. The symbolic meaning of long life and good luck is the major source of its popularity inside the palace as well as among the people in general. The fact that ChangSayng-Do was used to ornament the palace was documented in $\lceil$UiGuey(documents about Chosun dynasty$\rfloor$. Also during the late period of Chosun dynasty, the appreciators of arts had begun to spread from high level class to lower level class, and many pictures represented in $\lceil$Hanyang-Ga$\rfloor$ were the ones produced and circulated for those increased consumers. As for the folk-artistic characteristics, the anonymity and arbitrary naturalness of ChangSayng-Do demonstrates that the folk-artistic elements were fully soaked into the life styles of people in general. ChangSayng-Do further shows that a human being is located in the center of the universe, and that all the natural phenomena and ecology are observed to happen around human beings, and that the results of those happenings are connected to man's course of life. It is discovered that the subject matters of ChangSayng-Do in the late Chosun dynasty imply another idea inside metaphors and symbols. With regard to the arrangement of time and space, the unity or oneness of oneself with the world is more highly regarded than one's individual subjectivity: there exist multiple times and spaces in a single picture This reveals a wholistic view of oneness which does not permit the division between phenomenon and substance. To conclude, this thesis inquired into ChangSayng-Do in the late Chosun dynasty focusing on the expression of archetype-symbols. And through the analysis and demonstration, this thesis re-established constructional principles and formative characteristics of ChangSayng-Do and then settled a new phase of ChangSayng-Do, with a deep under-standing of fundamental thoughts of Korean people underlying ChangSayng-Do.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.46-69
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• 2013

The results of study on the meaning landscape and environmental design techniques of the Byulup, Yoohoedang garden(Hageowon) based on the story in the collection of Kwon Yi-jin (Yoohoedangjip, 有懷堂集), are as below. First, Yoohoedang Kwon Yi-jin (有懷堂 權以鎭 : 1668~1734) constructed a Byulup garden consisting of ancestor grave, Byulup, garden, and a school, through 3 steps for 20 years in the back hill area of Moosoo-dong village, south of Mountain Bomun in Daejeon. In other words, he built the Byulup(別業, Yoohoedang) by placing his father's grave in the back hill of the village, and then constructed Yoegeongam(餘慶菴) and Geoupjae(居業齋) for protection of the pond(Napoji, 納汚池), garden(Banhwanwon, 盤桓園), and ancestor graves, and descendants' studying in the middle stage. He built an extension in Yoohoedang and finally completed the large-size garden (Hageowon) by extending the east area. Second, in terms of geomancy sense, Yoohoedang Byulup located in Moosoo-dong village area is the representative example including all space elements such as main living house (the head family house of Andong Kwon family), Byulup (Yoohoedang), ancestor graves, Hagoewon (garden) and Yoegeongam (cemetery management and school) which byulup type Byulseo should be equipped with. Thirdly, there are various meaning landscape elements combining the value system of Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism value, including; (1) remembering parents, (2) harmonious family, (3) integrity, (4) virtue, (5) noble personality, (6) good luck, (7) hermit life, (8) family prosperity and learning development, (9) grace from ancestors, (10) fairyland, (11) guarding ancestor graves, and (12) living ever-young. Fourth, after he arranged ancestor graveyard in the back of the village, he used surrounding natural landscapes to construct Hagoewon garden with water garden consisting of 4 mountain streams and 3 ponds for 13 years, and finally completed a beautiful fairyland with 5 platforms, 3 bamboo forests, as well as the Seokgasan(石假山, artificial hill). Fifth, he adopted landscape plantation (28 kinds; pine, maple, royal azalea, azalea, persimmon tree, bamboo, willow, pomegranate tree, rose, chinensis, chaenomeles speciosa, Japanese azalea, peach tree, lotus, chrysanthemum, peony, and Paeonia suffruticosa, etc.) to apply romance from poetic affection, symbol and ideal from personification, as well as plantation plan considering seasonal landscapes. Landscape rocks were used by intact use of natural rocks, connecting with water elements, garden ornament method using Seokyeonji and flower steps, and mountain Seokga method showing the essence of landscape meanings. In addition, waterscape are characterized by active use of water considering natural streams and physio-graphic condition (eastern valley), ecological corridor role that rhythmically connects each space of the garden and waterways following routes, landscape meaning introduction connecting 'gaining knowledge by the study of things' values including Hwalsoodam(活水潭, pond), Mongjeong(蒙井, spring), Hosoo(濠水, stream), and Boksoo(?水, stream), and sensuous experience space construction with auditory and visualization using properties of landscape matters.