• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to analyze and minimize structural error between sample knitting and actual knitting in weft knitting apparel. Basic stitches used in this study were plain stitch, $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, Milan rib stitch. They were knitted into two different gauges(7 and 12 gauge) and 6 different sample sizes by computer program. The weight, length and width of these 5 basic knitting stitches were measured and their changes according to gauge, stitch and knitting were calculated and analyzed. The results were as follows; The weight of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by Milan rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, plain stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. As the density of stitch per unit area increases, the weight increases. The length of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch and Milan stitch in both 7 and 12 gauge. As the number of course increases, the length increases accordingly. However, its increase ratio shows higher than that of number of course. It means that the reduction in number of course is needed to get aimed length. The width of Milan rib stitch was the largest, followed by $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch in 7 gauge. In 12 gauge, Milan stitch, plain stitch and $0{\times}0$ rib stitch were the highest, followed by $2{\times}2$ rib stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. It showed that the change in shape of stitch influenced on the width more than the length of stitch.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1057-1064
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• 2004

Silk, polyester, cotton, and wool fabrics were embroidered with varying stitch length of 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm to examine the difference in fabric shrinkage in terms of sewing direction, fabric thickness, cover factor, stitch length, and fiber type. Warp, filling, and bias direction of sewing resulted in no difference in fabric shrinkage. Within the samples with same stitch length, there was less fabric shrinkage in fabrics with higher fabric thickness or higher cover factor. There was larger shrinkage when sewn with longer stitch length. Comparing fabrics with different fiber types but similar fabric thickness, silk and polyester fabrics showed the smallest fabric shrinkage and wool fabrics showed the largest shrinkage. It is shown that similar fabric shrinkage between silk and polyester is due to the similarity in cover factor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.217-228
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate influence of the construction method of the circular skirt on drapability and shape of static silhouette and length variation. In made 24 types of skirts giving the variations (six kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics two types of cutting method two types of machine stitch method of hem), The results were as follows: 1. Analysis of drapability In the cutting method thre was similarity between warp direction and true bias direc-tion. In the machine stitch method of hem there was similarity between blind stitch and blind stitch machine. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability was excellent in the order N/P 80/20(fabric 1)>P 100(fabric 5)>P 100(fabric 6)>P 100 (fabric 2)>P 100 (fabric 4)>N/C 50/50(fabric 3). 2. Analysis of the characteristics values of static silhouette shape In the cutting method shape of static sil-houette became wide in the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem shape of static silhouette became wide in the blind stitch. According to the fabrics shape of static silhouette became most wide in the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) and shape of static sil-houette become most narrow in the P 100(fabric 2,5) 3. Analysis of the length variation In the cutting method the true bias direc-tion was longer than the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem there was simi-machine stitch method of hem there was simi-larity between blind stitch and blind stitch ma-chine. In fabrics the P 100(fabric 6) showed the longest the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) showed most slight. Interaction between the cutting and messure-ment part of skirt lengh. In the warp diretion parts that showed longest length variation were C. G, K, O in the true bias diretion parts that showed most slight length variation were A, E, M, I.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.47-52
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• 2013

Aim of this study is to investigate the dimensional and shrinkage characteristics of the weft knitted fabrics with Polylactic acid(PLA) knitted yarn. This PLA knitted yarn was made of the biodegradability fiber. The structure of weft knitted fabrics that was utilized for this study is the plain stitch, which is the most basic structure among all weft knitted fabrics. As the stitch length is shorter, the stitch density, courses density, and wales density are more increasing. The stitch density increased as pre-treatment process and dyeing process progressed. On the contrary, the heat setting process made it decreasing. The MR(Machine Relaxation) and DR(Dry Relaxation) standard area shrinkage were increasing as wet process progressed and as the stitch lengths are long.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.350-357
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• 2001

In this study, seam strength, seam elongation and seam efficiency of polyurethane coated fabrics were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabrics, four kinds of sewing threads and three kinds of stitch lengths. And the sewability of polyurethane coated fabrics were evaluated by FAST system. The results were as follows: 1. Seam strength decreased with the increase of stitch length. The loop strength of sewing thread and the type of base fabric than the type of coated surface had an effect on seam strength. 2. Seam elongation also decreased with the increase of stitch length and was affected by the type of base fabric. The tensile elongation of polyurethans coated fabric had an effect on seam elongation. 3. Sean efficiency also was related to stitch length, the type of base fabric, and seam strength. The suitable seam efficiency was within 50%∼65% in which polyurethane coated fabric and sewing thread broke at the same time. Therefore PS thin and PPC thin sewing threads and 3mm stitch length were suitable to polyurethane coated fabrics. 4. The relaxation shrinkage(RS) of polyurethane coated fabric was smaller than the smallest value of control chart in FAST system. And the extensibility(E) and the shear rigidity(G) were larger than the largest value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1981-1989
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• 2008

Different people buy the same or similar products for different reasons. Benefit segmentation attempts to understand these differences by grouping together people who assign a similar level of importance to the same attributes. We focused on identifying market segments for knit fabrics by comparing the relative attribute preference for knit fabrics according to segmented clusters, and testing to establish if there were significant differences between the preferences of clusters. Three consumer segments emerged, and there were three clusters with different ideal knit profiles: a preferred wool group, a preferred acrylic group, and a preferred long stitch length group. The preferred wool group and the preferred acrylic group rated the mixture ratio as the main attribute that determined their preference, followed by the stitch length. The preferred long stitch length group considered stitch length as being the most important attribute, followed by the mixture ratio. The difference in the preferences for the mixture ratio and stitch length of knit fabrics was the highest between the three clusters, The preferred wool group preferred a knit fabric that has a greater wool mixture ratio and a short stitch length, and the preferred acrylic group and long stitch length group preferred a knit fabric that had a higher acrylic mixture ratio and a short stitch length.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.77-86
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to characterize physical and tensile properties according to a knitting method as basic materials for solving the difficulties that occur due to the fact that the crosswise elongation is most different among knit stitch at the time of measuring elongation of knitwear. The sample used for this study was wool $100\%$ and was knitted into two, that is, controlled loop length controlled to properties of structure and fixed loop length by using Shimaseiki SES-124S 12G computer automatic flat knitting machine with DSCS device. Also, the density of rib fabric was 12gauge and its quantity was a total of seven of $0{\times}0,\;1{\times}1,\;2{\times}1,\;2{\times}2,\;3{\times}3,\;4{\times}4$ and including plain fabric, and knitted 2 pieces of sample of 300 wale${\times}400$ course. In conclusion, rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1158-1167
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective textures and sensibilities of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective textures and sensibilities according to fiber contents of wool/rayon and stitch loop length. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. A factor analysis showed that subjective textures are classified into 3 categories with $R^2=70.32\%$: 'surface-rough', 'drapable', 'bulky' and 'elastic' and subjective sensibilities into 3 categories with $R^2=68.12\%$: 'stable/neat', 'feminine/elegant' and 'natural/comfortable'. The fiber contents of wool/rayon had a positive and linear relation with 'surface-rough', but had a relatively non-linear one with 'bulky' and 'elastic' categories of textures, and 'feminine/elegant' of sensibilities. The stitch loop length had a linear influence on 'drapable' and 'stable/neat', but had a non-linear influence on other subjective textures and sensibilities.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.665-671
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• 2005

This study aims to examine the effect of structural properties, subjective textures, sensibilities, and objective handle on the preference for weft knit fabrics, and then to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics through predicting the preference. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation of textures, sensibilities, and preference, we used the questionnaire that had been developed in the previous study. The data analysis was conducted with Pearson's correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncann multiple range test and regression analysis. The results are as follows: In relationship of structural properties and preference, we could not recognize any difference in whole ranges of wool/ rayon fiber contents and in 7.5mm and less stitch loop length. On the other hand, we could find the decrease of preference in over 7.5mm stitch loop length. As to subjective textures and sensibilities, a multiple regression analysis of preference indicated a higher determination coefficient by sensibilities than by textures. But there were little correlation between a objective handle and preference of weft knit fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.337-343
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• 2000

Physical properties of matt georgette knitted fabrics, which has been developed recently, were investigated to provide fundamental information for the textile industry. Dimensional characteristics were examined with three different loop lengths, where the plain knitted fabrics were knitted with cotton yam and polyester yarn. The matt georgette plain knitted stitch was fully relaxed after wet relaxation treatment at $130^{\circ}C$ for 30minutes and subsequent tumble dry treatment at $70^{\circ}C$ for 90minutes. As the treatment temperature of wet relaxation became higher and the loop length did shorter, all of stitch density, course density and wale density were increased with 31 of $K_1$ 8.3 of $K_2$ and 3.8 of $K_3$. Also, The higher value of $K_4$ could be obtain with shorter loop length. When the loop length became longer, the $K_4$ value was varied in a wide range with the treatment of wet relaxation and subsequent tumble dry.