• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.32-43
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• 2011

This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.146-155
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• 2011

This study examines the design characteristics of figure skating costumes by a content analysis of their design elements. The content analysis method for the study was used based on 185 photos of female figure skaters. A total of 218 coding units in 15 categories were used. In the category of color, unicolor costumes were the mainstay and represented 48.11% of the total costumes. Black costumes showed the highest rate (13.51%), followed by red (7.57%) and blue (7.03%). In the dual-color costumes, combinations of red and black and white and black, represented 4.32% of all costumes. A camisole was the most popular type of neckline (20.54%). Stand collars with neck decorations were found in 5.95% of the costumes. In addition, 98.2% of all figure skating costumes had decorations (crystal beads 21.86% were the most frequently used decoration type), 65.41% exposed all the shoulders and arms, 70.81% of the costumes did not have sleeves, 5.41% of the costumes had arm decorations, and 3.78% had wrist decorations. In the analysis of the hem of skirts, 32.40% had a curved line, 30.73% had a straight line, and 15.08% had an unrecognizable form. In general, the figure skating costumes have stand collars with neck decorations, arm and wrist decorations, and irregular skirt hems that are not found in everyday dresses. To emphasize and intensify a theatrical effect, the costumes were fabulously decorated with spangles, crystal beads, feathers, and lace; black, red, and blue were frequently used. The skirts had frills, fringe, flared lines, and beads on them to reflect the stage lights and emphasize movements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.49-60
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• 1998

This study found through that Fortuny's art world with design aesthetics was devided into historicism, purism, exoticism and mysticism of color. \circled1 Fortuny's aesthetic observation dazzled at that time and he apply well-grounded opinion in historicism of his all creation and then accomplish on the whole mysticism of art and technique dwelled creativity, \circled2 Fortuny's Delphos gown realized new creation of beauty intact by that the simplicity and contingency was inquired into the art at that time. He revived that aesthetic was included in the drapery of ancient Greece, so indirectly express outline of the human body and realized pure image used a natural curved line of the human body. \circled3 Fortuny's creations included a exotic special quality. His clothes expected so many characteristics of 20C fashion and exotic, visionary fashion revolution in addition influenced on stage costume. ㉧ Fortune created new color specially "Tempera" and expressed mysticism of color that found a harmonious color character and texture through the ancient techniques included experimental mind of a multilateral try.teral try.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.245-264
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• 2020

This study identifies Kim Jihaye and Lee Jeanyoun as actor-networks with cultural values and meanings. It analyzes the process of reorganizing their works into Korean orientalism via an action of co-construction with formative techniques. First, the historical context of orientalism formed in the fashion world will be studied, followed by the design characteristics of orientalism, and the correlation between the Korean orientalism of these designers on the world stage influenced by the globalization discourse of Korean tradition since the 1980s. Next, works of Kim Jihaye and Lee Jeanyoun from 2000 to 2012 will be analyzed, revealing aspects of Korean image reproduction. Consequently, this study finds that the Korean image is restructured socio-culturally through technological imagery as a reproduction of reality by the production subject. This study reminds us of the reflective and cultural meaning of fashion designers in the area of image reproduction, sociocultural practice, and materials and technology.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.508-526
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• 2020

This study has established a fashion illustration education plan using the contour drawing that fosters observational ability and enables creative drawing. This study developed two illustration curriculum proposals consisting of 15 weeks, combining literature and case studies. The researchers organized a step-by-step teaching plan that utilizes contour drawing according to the three stages of fashion illustration classes: foundation courses, general courses, and intensive courses. When the contour drawing is used at the beginning stage of the foundation courses of fashion illustration, it can be used as a technique to reduce the fear of students about practical skills, induce interest in illustration, and cultivate observation ability about objects. In general process, it is combined with various tools and coloring materials to strengthen expression power, and it is possible to produce detailed expressions and illustrations about human body and clothing. In intensive courses, it is expanded to the production of creative works with new aesthetics through digital techniques and mixed materials. As such, the contour drawing is expanded in various ways according to the learning contents and goals of each step, and is flexibly adjusted according to the learning content. Contour drawing has the effect of acquiring observation and expression ability, and it is analyzed as a technique that enables the production of creative illustration of students.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.56-65
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• 2010

It is time to create an image of Korea that uniquely defines and represents the nation to the world, by incorporating Korean traditions with the cultural industry. To this end, it is important to see the beauty of Korean tradition from an academic perspective and further explore its utility from an industrial viewpoint. This study is intended to design uniforms for employees in Korean restaurants at hotels or docents in Korean-styled museums. In doing so, we eyed on Baeja, a Korean traditional vest as the cultural archetype, and created cultural products. As our archetype, we chose two pieces of Baeja : one excavated from the tomb of Suryun Sim (1534-1589) which is displayed in the Gyeonggi Provincial Museum, and the other from Byeon of the Jeonju Lee family (1636-1731) in Suk Joo-Sun Memorial Museum at Dankook University. We also adopted Dapho with a Korean traditional vest with long length. Based on these cultural archetypes, seven products were developed. With the traditional food and way of living in Korea being more and more recognized in the global stage, it would be continuous creation and development of cultural contents with history and story rooted in the cultural heritage of the nation that could enrich our culture by bringing traditions back to the modern days to incorporate the past into the present. It is important to restore traditions when developing cultural products. However, it is also critical to commercialize ideas with stoη and creativity in the market for cultural products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.565-578
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• 2014

This study is about the cases in fashion figure appearing the contemporary fashion and their characteristics. The work aims at providing a further active research opportunity for fashion figure in the modern fashion field and finding several possible utilizations to help the overall fashion industry through examination. Research methodology was followed up with the related literature review and empirical work through the case study of multiple fashion figures denoted in the contemporary fashion. The results showed in the following way for types of fashion figure in the modern fashion. The first type is that its figure was used for stage apparatus in fashion collection, various properties, or garment tool as doll shifted to a certain object. The second type is that art toy or fashion doll was used as specially added product via way of cooperation with fashion brand to be applied as fashion figure alone or other properties for T-shirt or something like that. The third type is the case that multifariously sized figures were applied to show window or shop display. This type of fashion figure is basically an imbedded fashionistic feature, reflecting the rarity, publicity, playfulness, and artistic value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.101-117
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to consider the works of Nick Knight, the most influential fashion visual maker, to find out the characteristics of his works. For the research method, literature reviews were done by studying his book, viewing the articles on his official web site, reading journal review of his works and his interview articles. For the work analysis, fashion brands 'Christian Dior', 'Alexander McQueen', 'Martin Margiela', 'Hussein Chalayan' and 'Gareth Pugh' that have worked with Nick Knight were selected. The characteristics of his fashion works were derived from overall analysis of fashion visual works. The characteristics of Nick Knight's works are as follows. First is the 'innovation of image expression'. He used digital infra in advance and introduced digital images at the initial stage. He used fashion films as the means of communication and tried new image expressions in 3D. Second is 'breaking down the boundaries of creating process'. He worked with various field experts to make high quality works. He invited the public to participate in his creative process through the internet. Third is 'breaking down the categories of aesthetic expression'. He provided a wide variety of aesthetic standard and refused aesthetic stereotype. He broke the boundaries between fashion and art with a unique technique and high values.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.19-29
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• 2003

The 3D measurement data expected be useful to give appropriate garment fit and development of MTM(Made-to-Measure) CAD software. The researcher surveyed the need and use of national anthropometric data of the apparel industry. 17 Korean apparel manufacturers participated in the study. The need of anthropometric data at 5 different apparel business sectors was measured: men's suit, women's dress, casual-wear, underwear, and active sportswear. The result of the survey shows that height and bust, waist, hip circumferences are needed by all of the business sectors. The body measurements at the scye and upper arm area were need most by the men's suit manufacturers. The women's foundation garment manufacturers were well prepared for the use of the 3D body scan data and they expected the potential benefits of 3D body scan data would be great. The researcher also conducted a case study and found a pro and con of the using 3D body scan data for apparel product developing process. In the current stage of technical advance, a reasonable method was required to get nude like scan data for the women's foundation garment manufacturer. The researcher concluded that the apparel designer could use the 3D scan data for developing tremendous style garment design and pattern making.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.615-631
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• 2019

Smart healthcare clothing combines IoT, new technology, and clothing construction to perform specific care functions, and its utility has been expanding rapidly within aging and diversified societies. However, the related market remains at an early stage of development due to limited regulation, lack of consumer awareness, and the need for not only technical development but promotion plans for potential users. This paper aims to analyze factors influencing purchase intention for smart healthcare clothing with biosignal monitoring, including variables in the Technology Acceptance Model (TAM), clothing attributes, health-related lifestyle factors, and fashion innovativeness. A survey was conducted on a sample of 300 males and 300 females ranging in age from 20 to 50 years, and data were analyzed using SPSS 21.0. The results show that perceived usefulness, perceived aesthetic attributes, health responsibility, and fashion innovativeness were overall significant predictors of using smart healthcare clothing. Additionally, perceived ease of use and physical activity in the male subsample, and perceived compatibility within the female group, also had significant effects. Furthermore, age was a determining factor; for subjects in the 30s age group, perceived usefulness, compatibility, and health responsibility had significant positive associations. The results of this study can provide basic guidelines for designing merchandising plans to expand user acceptance of smart healthcare clothing.