• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1121-1131
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• 2004

The main objectives of this study were to examine the research trend in fashion marketing which has developed relatively recently among all subject areas in clothing and textiles, and to make suggestions regarding the future direction of the area. Research papers published in the first volume to the year 2000 volume of the Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume were examined and a total of 252 papers were categorized as fashion marketing papers. The results showed that the research topics were concentrated around consumer behavior, particularly decision making stage, and approximately a quarter of the papers dealt with 4P＇s -product, price, place and promotion- in marketing. Over 80% of the papers used survey method, and more than half of the papers examined female subjects exclusively, while only 6 research papers focused on males. The results indicated how fashion marketing area has been developing and what are needed to expand and strengthen the area.

• Advances in concrete construction
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.11-23
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• 2022

Conventional concrete needs some improvement in the mechanical properties, which can be obtained by different admixtures. However, making concrete samples costume always time and money. In this paper, different types of hybrid algorithms are applied to develop predictive models for forecasting compressive strength (CS) of concretes containing metakaolin (MK) and fly ash (FA). In this regard, three different algorithms have been used, namely multilayer perceptron (MLP), radial basis function (RBF), and support vector machine (SVR), to predict CS of concretes by considering most influencers input variables. These algorithms integrated with the grey wolf optimization (GWO) algorithm to increase the model's accuracy in predicting (GWMLP, GWRBF, and GWSVR). The proposed MLP models were implemented and evaluated in three different layers, wherein each layer, GWO, fitted the best neuron number of the hidden layer. Correspondingly, the key parameters of the SVR model are identified using the GWO method. Also, the optimization algorithm determines the hidden neurons' number and the spread value to set the RBF structure. The results show that the developed models all provide accurate predictions of the CS of concrete incorporating MK and FA with R² larger than 0.9972 and 0.9976 in the learning and testing stage, respectively. Regarding GWMLP models, the GWMLP1 model outperforms other GWMLP networks. All in all, GWSVR has the worst performance with the lowest indices, while the highest score belongs to GWRBF.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.611-619
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• 2022

본 논문은 슈스터만의 신체미학적 개념과 현대무용 초기 댄서의 심미적 특징을 결합하여 타오 댄스 시어터를 연구 대상으로 무용의 신체관념적 특징과 신체 미학적 특징을 연구에 출발점으로 하여 타오 댄스 시어터의 신체언어에 대해 이들이 표현하고 전체적인 연구를 진행하며 미니멀리즘과 추상적 미학적 관점에서 타오 댄스 시어터의 신체미학을 분석하였다. 그러므로 본 연구는 타오 댄스 시어터의 작품 <10>의 창작의도, 작품내용, 신체미학적 요소, 복장무대 등의 요소를 분석하고자한다. 이에 작품을 통해 이가 주장한 신체 미학적 개념을 이해하며 예술사조의 변화에 따른 현대무용예술의 발전 현황을 분석했다는 점에서 의미가 있다.

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.325-341
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• 1997

One of the noticeable trends of female wear in 1990s is the Outwearization of Underwear as it is called 'Lingerie look' This trend meaned 'Exposure Fashion' raised splendidly its head to the whole stage of fashion destrying the tradional concept having divided the fashion between outwear and underwear by Madonna an Americal populer singer showed up in front of the audience wearing the corset-dress as a stage custome. This corset-dress which can not be recognised whether it is underwear or outwear has been diffused into the mass as a fashionable trend re-gardless of any reason; therefore discrimi-nation of wear by space by far that is underwear should have the sstandard telling between private and public sector has been gradually tumbled. By the way what has propelled desigers to introduce the style continuously having the underwear motive such as outwear almost as same as underwear or underwear worn on out-wear etc. and has made it a fashion trends? How do we accept this "Ligerie look'fashion" The rearch on vogue of outwearization of underwear started by the questions above can be summarized as the followings The division between the sprit and the ma-terial-economic shrinkage by the collapse of the bubble economy in the late of 20 century and expectation for the next century doubt by changes of international politics dynamics for the next century and increasement of psycho-logical tention by the environmental destruc-tion etc, has been extended to break the sense of value down These frustration of the tra-ditional values and dissatisfaction on the pres-ent have reflected on the fashion pursuing some more sensational style to increase the ex-posure of the body. The revolution of wearing bouncing the con-servatismhas outwardly expressed underwear of the private sector. Therefore the spatial concept of wear which for the public sec-tor has been fallen into pieces and has broken the wall of the concept fixed by outwear on underwear. in addition the stage costome for the popular people like Madonna has not been limited by the specularity any more and has been assimilated with the normal wear on the street to take the distinction for away. The circumstances of the late of 20 century pursuing sensation and making sex commer-cialized have accordance with the outweari-zation of underwear. there it is on the basis of Minimalist's dogmatism has been expressed the maximization of expoure in the pubric space to popularize bra pants(knickers) as outwear. The reaction on the attribute of hiding and shanding has brought 'See-Through fashion' with the transparent materials, The contemporary doubt recalling the mem-ory of the past has sublimated corset which was an instument of toture for women into Romanticism to introduce it to fashion with the development of a new material not to be a tool of any oppression and maltretment any longer. The popularization of outwear like underwear what's more has brought high quality of underwear. There it has called for the variety of materials such as knit demin and velvet etc, and has urged the famous designers to enlarge their working boundaries to underwear designs, Besides outwearization of underwear has been popular even in the Orient which has the con-servative opinions on exposure ; so changes of the thoughts can be seen among the establish-ment generation on exposure of the body. As the more high tech information publi-cized and the more technology and media digitalized the more expression being analog the pursue for the new in fashion with vision never been seen and even though it is imprac-tical the experimental designers have drived the freedom beyond the traditional roles of the previous century. Consequently outwearization of underwear may be viewd as a trial as an expression responded the contemporary background. This trend in my opinion will have been lasted for a while by being proliperlated among lasted for a while by being proliperlated among the pub-lic who has the century-end anxiety and doubt and expectation for the next century.

• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to find the Dart Manipulation with good fitting and evaluate the aesthetics of Dart Manipulation that is used in the designs of the original tops for women in their 30's. Subsequently, it suggests dart manipulation with good body fitting and physical fitness when designing original tops. The findings of this study are as follows. First, in the fitting of Dart Manipulation for different body types, cross direction Dart Manipulation received good marks in the Square Body Type while mixed direction and diagonal direction Dart Manipulation received high evaluation in the Standard Body Type. Also, for the Reverse Triangle Body Type, mixed direction Dart Manipulation received high marks. Since there are only small changes in fitting for the Square Body Type, the position of Dart Manipulation should be determined in regards to the aesthetic view as well as the fitting of the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type. Second, in the fitness of Dart Manipulation for different body types, an approach from the aesthetic view should be considered for Square Body Types because of the differences in fitness according to the position of dart manipulation. The fitness should be considered when positioning Dart Manipulation for the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type because of these differences. Third, for the greater variance of drop for these different body types, the change of the amount of dart received lower evaluation in fitting since the amount of dart increased when the dart was located higher than B.P. The number of dart should likely increase when gathering or tucking is necessary when there is an excessive amount of dart in Dart Manipulation for the different body types. Fourth, as for the changes of wrinkles in accordance with the body type, wrinkles were likely to be formed at the breast or neck area when there was a larger difference in drop. To prevent such problems, one more dart should be made on the wrinkle. In conclusion, the study suggests designing the original top with a better look and comfort by setting the balance between aesthetics and fitting in the design stage.

• 복식
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.172-183
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• 2014

The term "new woman" (신여성 [Sinyeoseong], 新女性) refers to an idealized image of contemporary women during the so-called modern period in East Asia. In Korea, these "modern girls" were also referred to as modan (毛斷), or "cut-hair", reflecting changes in appearances that rejected the traditional value system in favor of "the new" in everyday life. Although it was used to refer to the perceived educated leaders of this new period, it also had the negative connotation of referring to frivolous women only interested in the latest fashion. The popular discourse on this "new woman" was constantly changing during this early modern period in East Asia, ranging from male-driven women's movements to women-driven liberal and socialist movements. The discourse often included ideals of what constituted female impeccability in women's domestic roles and enlightened views on housekeeping, yet in most cases the "new woman" was also expected to be a good wife and mother as well as a successful career woman. The concept of the "new woman" was also accompanied by an upheaval in women's social roles and their physical boundaries, and resulted in women repositioning themselves in the new society. The new look was a way of constructing their bodies to fit their new roles, and this again was rapidly reproduced in visual media. Newspapers, magazines, and plays had gained immense popularity by this time and provided visual material for the age with covers, advertisements, and illustrations. This research will explore the fashion of the "new woman" through archival resources, specifically magazines published in the 1920s and 1930s. It will investigate how women's appearances and the images they pursued reflected the ideal image of the "new woman." Fashion information providers, trendsetters, and levels of popular acceptance will also be examined in the context of the early stage of the fashion industry in East Asia, including production and distribution. Additionally, as the idea of the "new woman" was a worldwide phenomenon throughout the 19th and early 20th century, the effect of Japanese colonialism on the structure of Korean culture and its role as a cultural mediator will also be considered in how the ideal image of beauty was sought, and whether this was a western, colonial, or national preference.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.85-98
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• 2015

Modern fashion shows the trend of various styles and the period focusing on only product functions is changed to the period focusing on consumer's sensibility. Consumers show different sensitivities and preference by individual at the stage cognizing and recognizing the stimulation of given image and the method of objective measurement based on the fashion sensible vocabularies is necessary to measure fashion sensibility. Therefore, this research is significant to examine differences of preference to classic fashion by generation and awareness for sensible vocabularies and suggest methodology of design sensible evaluation research through the quantitative evaluation objectifying subjective sensibility. For the method of research, precedent theses related to classic, concept and characteristics of classic in books and definition and characteristics by generation were examined, the best 3 domestic portal sites were selected and adjective vocabularies and images related to classic were collected from 2010 to 2014. Among the 206 adjectives collected, vocabularies whose average is more than 3.5 were drawn by 5-point Likert scale for fashion expert group. And, among the total 306 images collected, 21 representative images were selected by preliminary investigation of fashion expert group. For the classic images and vocabularies selected, frequency analysis, factor analysis and variance analysis were conducted by SPSS 19.0. The results of analysis are as follows. Preference to classic fashion image by generation was analyzed. As a result, both of two generations selected classic fashion as the most classic one. The images of the next orders were analyzed. As a result, Y generation selected basic classic fashion image which is casual with high activity as a classic one. Baby boom generation selected ancient classic fashion image, so there were differences in preference for classic by generation. As a factor analysis on classic adjective vocabularies, they could be divided into 5 factors such as basic form, attractive form, traditional form, vintage form and active form and they verified that credibility of all measuring variables for classic sensible vocabularies was achieved. Differences of classic sensible vocabularies by classic fashion image and generation were examined. As a result, generation and classic fashion image made a significant effect on five factors. Therefore, there were differences of the awareness on classic fashion images and sensible vocabularies among the generations and this thesis can be a fundamental material which objectifies subjective sensibility and suggests the methodology of new research.

• 복식
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• 제12권
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• pp.9-23
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• 1988

This study is on the costumes for Korean traditional play, Nong-ak(farm music), and intends to analyze their aesthetic features, laying emphasis on Pilbong Nong-ak, Im sil, Chollanam-do. About its origin there are many kinds of theories; for example, the theory of hoping stability, the theory of it being related with Buddhism, the theory of martial music, etc. Shamanic, Buddhist, and martical fators that support these theories are expressed through flags, bells, drums, Deograe (half-coats), Cheonrips (sang-mo, felf hats), go-kkals(peaked hats), colored lines called 'ga-sa', which are used in Nong-ak. The characteristic of the costumes used in Pilbong Nong-ak is that it keeps its conservativeness and the costumes of its members are various and splendid. For example, leader groups' black half coats, Changbu's and Hwa-dong's red and bule over coats are remarkable. Particpants wear gok-kal or cheonrip, trousers and half coats which are the basic costumes of Korean Hanbok, and wear blak half coats or blue vests and put blue, red, and yellow lines around them. The colors and knotting methods of those lines in this region are the same with those of chollawoo-do and Kyongi province, but different form those of Kongwon and Kyong-sang province using green, red, and yellow colors. This comparison of colors shows each region's preference of peculiar colors and those colors coincide with colors used in flags. The research on the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes through each region's clothes tells us that these can be linear clothes which have expressiveness as stage clothes used in Madangori, the play which is performed in the field, and modern spatial formativeness. Those characteristics are as follows; 1. The expressions of a rhythmical and daring round line by turning a long line of sang-mo. 2. Various rhythms according to the attaching methods. 3. The expressions of thick, simple, and daring color lines. 4. Natural beauty of materials. 5. The popular simplicity and non-technicality 6. The beauty of five-direction colors, Oriental ideal colors Consequently in this study our national consciousness of beauty are examined through clothes. It is suggested that the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes and ornaments should be effectively expressed, for this purpose. interests in participants' clothes should be increased in order to prevent the confusion of each region's features. Also it is necessary to improve color lines, their length, width, and knotting methods, and beautify instrument. Finally this study intends to bring the reappraisal about the art of Nong-ak clothes and its re-establishment in view of modern aesthetic consciousness.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.13-24
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• 2019

Adolescence is a transitional stage of physical development which occurs during the period from puberty to adulthood. Going through this period, various parts of an adolescent's body grow at different rates, leading to different body shapes and proportions when compared to adults. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the body sizes and shapes of junior high school boys from ages 13-15 based on body measurement items that are used as the basis for school uniform designs including jackets, shirts, and pants. For this, the study sought the basic data needed to develop body shapes and school uniform patterns for junior high school boys using the data from the 6th Size Korea Survey (2010). Specifically, it provided basic data for the development of school uniform patterns that fit well through the classification of bodies into particular types. After extracting body shape componen a cluster analysis using ANOVA was performed. According to the factor analysis conducted to determine body shape components, 5 factors were obtained as follows: Factor 1: bulk and horizontal size, Factor 2: body height and length, Factor 3: shoulder shape and length, Factor 4: characteristics of horizontal size, Factor 5: shape of the upper body with a variance of 82.62%. To classify junior high school boys' body shape was determined using various characteristics, and a cluster analysis was performed with the variables obtained by the factor analysis. For this, body shapes were classified into 3 different types: Type 1 accounted for 33.4%, with a total of 463 subjects. This type was a tall, long body individual with the smallest bulk and size. Type 2 accounted for 22.7%, with a total of 315 subjects. This type was large in bulk and horizontal size, but the lowest in height and length. Type 3 accounted for 43.9%, with a total of 610 subjects. This type was close to average in terms of horizontal size, length, and height. To develop well-fitting school uniforms for junior high school students, there should be further studies on changes in body shape and their associated causes. The study results will be available as basic data for comparing branded school uniform patterns for junior high school boys and developing school uniform patterns based on body shape, using 3D virtual clothing simulations.