• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.425-437
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• 2013

The aim of this study was to establish the identity of Korean traditional food based on the recorded food preferences during the period of the Chosun Dynasty. Our primary source in this regard was the invaluable, historical document called the "Miam's diary." This important document reveals details of such food preferences from October 1567 to September 1568. By analyzing the income-expenditure trends of virtually every household, this diary was used to describe a vivid traditional food preference of the people during that period. A detailed analysis of the diary reveals the summary of families' characteristics in the 16th century. First, it records the fact that expenditure on food was mainly based on stipend and gifts received. The type of food preferred by the people was diverse in nature; for it included rice, bean, chicken, pheasant, and seafood. However, there were dried or pickled forms too so as to prevent them from undergoing decay. Second, it throws light on the fact that people expended food mainly as a salary for servants. People utilized the income from selling such food items to purchase goods and land. They also used the same either to donate for a funeral or wedding purpose. Third, it records the fact that day-to-day purchase of groceries was mostly based on gift(s) for someone close to them such as a neighbor, colleague, relative, or student. Further, such gifts included small groceries, food items, and clothes. Fourth, based on the data available in the diary, it seemed likely that the gentry families laid emphasis on the customary formalities of a family dating back to as early as the late 16th century. Finally, the document also records the fact that noblemen of the Chosun Dynasty had a notion that they had to extend warmth and affection by presenting generous gifts to their guests at home. Noblemen during that period were very particular in welcoming their guests as they believed that this approach alone would testify their status as noblemen.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.188-202
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• 2018

This study aimed to categorize women's body shapes by type after extracting prototypes of 25~34 year old Korean woman. The standardizing research service project conducted by the Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Energy in 2005, divided the age ranges of adult women into three groups: 18~24 years (young), 25~34 years (young-adult) and 35~49 years (adult). This study utilized this age division method to create a concrete body type categorization schema with the most marriageable period, 25 to 34 years old as target age the target age group. We used, measurement data from the 7th Korean Human Body Size Survey (Size Korea) for the body shape analysis. We completed a statistical analysis using the statistical program SPSS 21. After creating the body types using CLO 3D, which is based on the 7th Korean human body measurements, we input data for the average size for each type into the Avata. We then compared and analyzed the cross sections using the Rapidform XOR program. The results of the type-specific characteristics are as follows: big square body of obese body, small square body of plain flat body with tall, plain square body of plain flat with short, triangular body of lower body obesity there was. Significantly, the results of this study should facilitate the development of various apparel products using mass customization or easy-order systems.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.85-102
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• 2015

This study aimed to develop dress torso patterns with both aesthetic and functional qualities that fit for women in their 20s. In order to develop dress torso patterns, wearing tests were done. By collecting drafting methods of the patterns through literature study and the survey of wedding dress manufacturers, four kinds of dress torso patterns were selected. The existing dress torso patterns have no or very small ease in chest, waist, and hip circumferences. As a result of wearing tests of these four existing dress torso patterns, drafting methods of dress torso patterns that have the best satisfied values close to optimum zero were selected; the first and second research dress torso patterns were developed by modifying and supplementing items that had noticeable difference through the Wilcoxon rank sum test with a selected measured value and a best satisfied value of zero; and deduced a drafting method for the final developed dress torso patterns by a wearing test of the second developed dress torso patterns. Distinctive aspects of drafting methods of the final developed dress torso patterns were that ease for each area was given differently by considering a functional quality and a chest circumference instead of a bust circumference was applied to reduce influence by the size of breast in neck and armhole areas, and a back bust level. Back neck breadth was made wider and front neck breadth was made less narrow due to a recent change of age 20s female adults' shoulder and back shape.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.61-74
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• 2013

본 연구는 선조들이 궁궐이나 사가(私家)의 정원에 분을 이용하여 식물을 완상한 실증적인 사례들에 대하여 고문헌과 고전시문을 고찰하고 해석하여, 분에 식재된 식물소재와 분식물의 수형 및 식재기법 그리고 분식물의 배치와 애호행태 등을 고찰하였다. 연구의 방법은 분식물을 주제로 한 시문과 회화를 고찰하고 해석하는 기술(description)적 연구방법을 사용하였다. 본 연구의 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 분에 식재되어 애용된 식물로 목본류는 매화나무와 소나무를 비롯하여 만년송, 대나무, 동백나무, 석류나무, 치자나무 등 19종이고, 초본류는 국화와 연(蓮)을 비롯하여 12종이다. 둘째, 수형을 인위적으로 각별하게 가꾼 수종은 매화나무와 소나무로 두 식물은 왕피나 규반, 반간 등 줄기의 굴곡이 심한 생김새의 수형을 만들었으며, 기이한 등걸에 접붙인 매화나무와 괴석 위에 뿌리를 뻗게 석부하여 수형을 가꾼 소나무 분재도 있다. 분재의 수형미를 위해 노송에 솔방울을 달거나 줄기에 담쟁이덩굴을 식재하기도하고, '종분취경'이라 하여 분토에 이끼가 생기게 하는 부가적인 방법도 활용하였다. 식재기법으로 수경재배, 석부작, 숯부작, 모아심기 등도 시문에 표현되어 있다. 셋째, 분식물이 배치된 외부공간으로는 궁궐의 연조공간이나 연침공간, 사가의 건물 주변과 마당, 섬돌 위 등에 놓여 점경물 역할을 하였다. 분식물은 서재나 사랑방의 탁자나 책상, 문갑 위, 베갯머리 등에 놓여 실내공간의 소품 역할을 하며, 선비들은 이들 분식물의 고유의 특성과 상징성에서 의미를 취하여 즐겼다. 넷째, 분매(盆梅)의 개화시기에는 시회를 열어 매화를 감상하고 술을 마시며 시작활동을 하였으며, 국화 개화시는 술잔에 띄우거나 그림자놀이 등 풍류를 즐겼다. 다섯째, 분식물은 궁궐이나 사대부들의 아취 있는 모임이나 결혼식과 제사 등의 행사에서 점경물의 역할을 하였다. 여섯째, 분식물은 국가 간의 공물로 사용되기도 하고, 왕에게 드리는 진상품이나 왕의 하사품으로 이용되기도 하였다. 또한 선비들 사이에도 분식물을 주고받은 사례가 많으며, 목은 이색의 목은시고 에 분매를 선물한 최초의 기록이 있다. 일곱째, 분매와 분국, 분치, 분연 및 분에 심은 수선화 등의 개화시에 이들 식물의 고유의 향기를 즐기며, 시문으로 표현하였다. 여덟째, 동백나무, 서향화, 치자나무, 귤나무, 대나무, 석류나무, 해당화, 파초 등 남부수종이나 외래수종 및 내한성이 약한 종은 엄동설한에 중부이북지방의 실내에서 푸르름을 즐기기 위하여 분에 심어 활용되었다.

• 복식
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• 제50권7호
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• pp.195-218
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• 2000

This study investigates the characteristics of European knitted works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) the origin and development of knitting. 2) the characteristics of knitting industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns and cultures. 4) 7he symbolic meaning of the designs in the knitted works and theire functions. This research is barred on the survey of the relevant literature and photographs. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1) The introduction of knitted works was closely connected with the climatic and socio-economic conditions of the places of the origin. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. 2) In ancient times, abstract and geometric patterns have developed in Europe under the influence of Arabian knitted work. Middle Ages saw the flourishing of Arabian knitted works representing the authority of the church. In early modern times, the knitted work assumed the wealth of the royal families and the nobles. But afterward it was gradually Popularized among the middle classes. Knitting was then regarded as one of the women's major cultural activities. However, recently in the interwar periods. the knitting industry did not flourish and the knitted works came to serve merely as comfort goods by political urge. Knitted works were introduced in Korea around 1870 (the 7th or 8th year of king Kojong era) by Catholic missionaries and they started to be made by machine in 1917. 3) As for the propagation of the knitted work into Europe, there are three routes estimated. The traditional knitting patterns of local areas and their characteristics are summed up as follows : (1) England Guernseys are thick dark blue wool, whereas Jerseys are thinner and of various colors. The knitted shawls of Shetland are world-famous for their fine, lace-like texture that they can be through a wedding-ring. The knitted work of Fair Isle shows several distinctive features, such as the use of no more than two colors, patterns with diagonal lines. symmetry within the patterns, the prominent OXO patterns, and horizontal bands of patterning. The representative knitted work of Aran is Aran sweater made for fishermen to developed from guernseys of Scotland. (2) Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. (3) Baltic area : The Latvian and Lithuania stockings have very ornate patterns. Many of the Estonian knit stockings and mittens share designs. Komi was well-known for its symmetric diamond pattern. Komi patterns include colored stripes, borders of pattern and all-over designs of complex diagonals. (4) Balkan area : In Yugoslavia, the patterns of roses, leaves and flowers were used for stockings, gloves and leggings. Greek knitting resembled southern Russian knitting, which utilized light colored patterns with dark colors for a background. Turkish patterns are symmetric vertically or horizontally. 4) The traditional knitting patterns net only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns also represented Power or authenticity Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns.

• 복식
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• 제16권
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• pp.15-42
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• 1991

A nation's culture isn't consisted by the characteristics of the nation only, but it is greatly affected by the geographical features and natural conditions, and it could be also dominated by the continual effect through mutual contact on economic exchange or social problem and political interests with neighboring countries. It is a well known fact that the contact of culture between Korea and Mongolia established under the special political situation that Corea was invaded by Won. But more basically, the Nomad including Mongolia had influenced upon neighboring countries, therefore, our country was also greatly influenced on consisting of our own culture by them. Moreover. the fact that our language belongs to their language's category(mostly Tweigru and Mongolian language) proves that the origin of our culture was deeply related with Mongolia. Accordingly, we could not limit the cultural relation between Korea and Mongolia within a special era. But especially, since unification of China by Mongolia, Won which appeared as a new great nation had dominated Corea for one hundred years, and the Corea's costume culture had a point of conversion to the mongolian. Therefore, this study expects to comment upon the relations of costume between Corea and Mongolia from a view point of Corea's tribute and royal gifts gifts by Mongolia written on the reference literatures. 1) From the ancient times, between our country and Mongolia there has been a direct or indirect exchange caused by the people's movement or invasion due to very closed neighboring. The relations between Corea and Mongolia have started from the mongolia's requests of tribute for the reason why they helped Corea against the Keoran's invasion, and these relation had continued by King Kongmin's age. 2) Mongolia had plundered a tribute such as dress, cereals, horses, military supplies, soldiers, maiden and little girls etc. from Corea, and therefore, a great confusion occurred on political, economic and social fields. And since King Chungyoul of Corea got married with a Princess of Won, the Corea's position was placed as the Buma nation(nation of son in law) and then high class people of Corea preferred to follow the mongolian costume such as Byunbal (pigtail), Ho dress (mongolian dress), Rouges, Chockturi (a kind of formal cap) and Doturak pigtail ribbon, and some have been applied up to date. On the other hand, the custom of Corea had transmitted to the Mongolian nobility, they called it "Corea Yang(style)". 3) The costume of Corea could be divided into three different periods, the first is the period influenced by Tang and Song's regime, the second is affected by the Won's costume and the third is applying the Myung's regime in the end of Corea. The Mongolian dress was based on the Ho dress form and it has been developed through compounding artistic traditional fields and foreign customs in long history. And Mongolia is composed of various tribes, therefore, they have their own dress for each tribe. Our country and Mongolia had a similar dress form based on Ho dress and both used the Chacksukunggo (jacket with small sleeves and slacks) and Seon(line). And the ornaments of costume such as Chockturi, Doturak pigtail ribbon and Rouges had transmitted and fixed down as a traditional wedding garment, but the Rouges has been used by noble women from the ancient times in our country. Since a member of the Society of Korean Costume has visited Mongolia in August 1990 for the first time, I really recognized the neccesity of more detailed study on the costume relation between Korea and Mongolia, and I will proceed with the study on various fields of costume under cooperation of Institute of Oriental Academy of Mongolia.