• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.82-91
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects by variations in the shoulder length and puff volume of the puff sleeve blouse. The stimuli are 21 samples: 3 variations of the shoulder length and 7 variations of the puff volume. The data has been obtained from 40 fashion design majors. The data has analyzed by Frequency, Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe's test and MCA method. The result of the study are as follows. The visual effects by the shoulder length and puff volume are composed of 4 factors : the width of the upper body, the shape of the breast part, the shape of the neck part and the shape of the upper arm. In these factors, the width of the upper body is estimated by most important factor. In view of the visual effects by variation of the shoulder length, the shorter shoulder length goes, the more positive visual image comes in the shape of the breast part. In comparison of the differences of visual effects by the 7 variations of puff volume, the arm looks thin and long when the puff volume goes enough and the breast part has a better visual assesment in case the puff volume goes poor. In the interaction effects between the shoulder length and puff volume, the shoulder length have significant differences in the shape of the breast part, the shape of the neck part and the shape of the upper arm and puff volume has significant difference in the width of the upper body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.87-104
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• 2000

The women's apparel sizing system, currently used in the Korean industry, does not reflect measurement differences associated with varying body types and age. Forty five body meaqsurements were taken on 560 subjects, whoes eages ranged from 18-24. STatistical analysis of the data was coducted by using frequences, crosstables, correlation, oneway ANOVA, Regressio analysis. The results of this study were as follow. 1. Average height of women in their early 20's is 160cm, average bust girth 82cm, average hip girth 90cm and average drop 809. The correlation between height and grth items were low and the correlation of length items in the superior and inferior body were shown to bo high respectively. 2. The average Rhrer index is 1.28 and they ussually seem to be in the thin and standard body group. 3. body types were divided by differences between hip and bust sizes. N type(medium hip), A type (large hip), H type(small hip). A classification by body type showed that N type made up 58% while a type made up 24%. 4. The garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed. 5. The new basic blocks and garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed as follows : Bust girth (1/2) = 76N, 76A, 79A type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 4cm) 79N type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 3.5cm) 82N, 85N type ($\frac{1}{2}$B +3cm) Hip girth($\frac{1}{2}$) =N type($\frac{1}{2}$H + 2~2.5cm) Atype($\frac{1}{2}$H +1.5~2cm) Waist girth($\frac{1}{2}$)=$\frac{1}{2}$W + 2-3cm Back length =extimated measure -0.5cm Front length=76A, N (Back length + 2.2cm) 79A, N(back length +2.7cm) 82N(Back length +3.2cm) 85N(Back length + 3.7cm) Sleeve length=Sleeve length +3cm.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.95-110
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is to analyze how appropriately the sizing of domestically produced children's wear compares to children's sizes; it is based on an anthropometric survey conducted in 1998. By discovering and understanding discrepancies between the sizing system of children s wear and the real size of children, this study aims to suggest solutions that will lead to increased comfort and more suitable fitting in children's clothes. This research analyzes and compares 'the extent of growth between age groups' with 'the difference in sizing system in use by manufacturers'. The study focused on aged 4 to 12 children, who are usually divided in two groups; primary students and toddlers. In total, seven sizes were selected: bust, waist, and hip (which are girth sizes), and height, back neck to waist (top length), sleeve length, and waist to ankle (slacks length) as representing length. The results of this research are analyzed by basing on the actual increments between the sizes of children's wear in certain basic items rather than sizes themselves because each size quite differed according to companies, items and designs. Significantly, the increase in the sizing was not as great as the average biennial growth rate of children. The consequences are poorer fit and unsuitable representative value for each age group because the actual sizes of children increasingly differ from the sample size. Observing the increments in several sizes, we found that 81.8% of the companies used the certain and equal increases for grading sizes in sleeve length, waist, and bust. In addition, 72.7% of the companies adopted the same increments between sizes in height and hip girth, and 63.6% also chose equal increments in T-shirt length for making smaller or bigger sizes from the sample size. However, sleeve length and pant length were the components that displayed the most varied sizing. Interestingly, the few companies that used different increments between size groups, adopted the change only between one or two size groups, instead of all sizes. In conclusion, this research reveals the unsuitability of the current sizing system and the necessity to increase consumer confidence in the size tags on children's wear by modifying the system to reflect the actual growth of children. The results can also contribute to future study on the development of a new and more accurate sizing system for children's wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.930-942
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• 1996

This study was done to provide the characteristics of body surface changes at armhole area. Experiments were carried out at upper arm and upper body inchuding 67 items, 74 segments by the stanard posture and arm movements. The subjects were 15 females of twenty aged. The major conclusions of this study are; 1. On the circumference items of upper arm, armhole circumference was decreased by all arm movement, especially high contracted on front armhole line. The most contracted segments of armhole circumference were from the shonlder point to front and back interscye breadth point. Axillary circumference was increased 5 cm to the utmost, so the function of sleeve pattern would be decided by axillary circumference. 2. The lengths of upper arm were decreased near center line, sleeve cap length was contracted 3∼4 cm. Posterior armpit point area was increased both length and breadth. According to the rates of expansion and contraction, the diagram of expansion and contraction of upper arm was suggested. 3. On upper body, back side chest breadth was increased exceedingly and shoulder length was decreased most. It was apparent that surface changes of upper body were greatly larger as far away from center front and center back line. The rates of expansion and contraction of upper body were also represented as a diagram of surface changes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.237-246
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze short sleeve cycling tops from three brands for a change in garment fit and pressure depending on the static and cycling postures. To this end, it used a 3D virtual garment system to virtualize the garments. Further, a cross-section of the 3D virtual garment data was obtained, and the space length was measured in the design-X program to prove the objectivity of the 3D virtual garment. The results indicated that three brands had a large space length at the front than the back because of the bent posture in cycling. Therefore, appropriate ease was required for the waist and abdomen. Although there were various cutting lines of the bodice panel by brand, the design of the cutting lines should consider the changes in the surface to reflect the bent posture in cycling. The results of this experiment confirmed that the wrinkles present in the 3D virtual garment were reflected in the cross-section and that the space length was small in the high-stress area, as shown in red. Therefore, it was proven the stress of the 3D virtual garment could be used for 3D virtual garment evaluation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.79-89
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences among visual images under variations in shoulder length and puff volume of the puff sleeve blouse. The stimuli are 21 samples: three variations of shoulder length and seven variations of puff volume. The data has been obtained from 40 fashion design majors, where they had been analyzed through frequency, factor analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe's test and MCA method. The results of the study are as the following: As a result, through factor analysis of the visual images according to the variation of shoulder point and puff volume, the following four factors had been identified. Factor 1 is the brightness from evaluation terms such as childish-precocious, cute-mature, bright-genteel, soft-hard, enlarged-reduced, particular-ordinary, interesting- uninteresting, etc. Factor 2 is the attractiveness from evaluation terms such as refine-rustic, stylish-dull, attractive-unattractive, modern-classic, urban-rural, cool-gloomy, spacious-tight. etc. Factor 3 is the comfortness from evaluation terms such as comfort-discomfort, intense-indistinct, etc. Factor 4 is the elegance from evaluation terms such as elegance-shallowness, womanish-manly, etc. These four factors were 66.7% of the total variables. Of the total variables, the first factor had been evaluated as brightness in 26.2%, attractive in 21.0%, comfortness in 11.1%, and elegance in 8.4%. From this study, the more puff volume and shorter shoulder length, the puff volume wrapped the shoulder naturally, thus making the shoulder look narrow, and giving a cute and bright image. However, by having less puff volume and excessively short shoulder length, the puff volume did not naturally wrap the shoulder, which gave an unnatural and unattractive feel.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.141-155
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• 1992

The Buddhist costumes, unlike the ordinary ones, have not been studied comprehensively due to their religious, non-popular and non-social features. In this regard, this paper aimed at reviewing the styles and symbolic Characters of the monks' dancing costumes for the traditional Buddhist ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak'(The Intangible Cultural Asset No.50.) Here, the 'Spirit Vulture Peak Ceremony' is a kind of Buddhist ceremony commemorating the Buddha's preaches on the peak of Mt. Grdhrakuta by means of symbolized ritual and reformation procedures. The methodology of this study depended on the research of literatures, personal observation of the actual ceremony and the discussion with Priest Park Song-am. The dancing style of the Ceremony can be divided into four categories; the cymbal dancing., the drum dancing , the butterfly dancing and the column-beating dancing. And for the dancing costumes, the loose ritual mantle, the long-sleeve robe and the buddhist costume are used; the loose mantle and the long-sleeve robe are for the drum dancing. The style of the loose mantle is rectangular, sewn every odd knot between 5 and 25 ones. According to the record, its color was initially grey or red-yellow, but varied depending on the local rules. The four corners of the loose mantle have a rectangular-cloth embroidery of sky & king patterns, and the center is embroidered with the Sun'Moon designs or 'Om/Nan' letters in the Korean spells. The light of Sun/ Moon designs symbolizing the sky and the earth respectively are indigenous to a particular school in Korea. The long-sleeve robe has a traditional over-coat style. and is called otherwise of if some design is added. The total clothing or dancing costumes for the Ceremony include 'the Dae-ryung (meaning great peake)loose mantle', 'the White Paldad(meaning Chinese Character eight) long-sleeve robe and the peaked hat. The Dae-ryung mantle is a kind of ritual costumes with the shorter length than the ordinary mantles, and has a character 'Ryung' in Chinese spell attached with three to six colors. The White Paldae robe is shorter than the ordinary robes in the total length but longer in the length of sleeves. It is put on over the mantle from the left shoulder, and used often for the butterfly and column-beating dancings. It is hoped that this study will promote the study on the customs and rites of the Buddhism rather than on the thoughts, and contribute to the further studies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.480-491
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• 2010

This study investigates the body satisfaction and fitness apparel depending on age and silhouette. The subjects were 254 females 20~50 years of age living in Chungju South Korea. There are various body types in women over the age of 35, the lower part of the body-development type, regular type, the upper part of the body-development type, and the rectangular body type. In addition, there is a lower satisfaction level in circumferences related with apparel fit, especially in the sleeve length, armhole, and crotch length. Therefore, a size system is needed that considers various body types in ready-to-wear clothing for middle-aged women. Design, color, and pattern are most important in clothing purchases by unmarried women, but the ease of laundry management and price discounts are the most significant for clothing purchases by married women. The upper part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the size-fit of sleeve length and shoulder width, but the lower part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the circumference of the waist, hip, abdominal, girth of skirt, and crotch length. The rectangular body type and the lower part of the body-development type are unsatisfactory in movement comfort, especially in hip girth and crotch length. The upper part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the movement comfort of the chest and elbow girth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.99-112
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• 1996

In this study I purpose a new approach to the study of Korean costume history which includes a statistical method used in the prac-tical measurement of excavated Po's and the analysis of their quantitative changes. In the framework used in this study I de-pend on the nineteen variables picked out from the typological and chronological analysis of excavated clothes. The interrelationship of the variables as well as the standard of each part and its deviation in other forms are may main concern. Other methods are also very useful in my thesis: Correlation analysis Regression analysis Discrimination analysis Cluster analysis Discrimination analysis Cluster analysis Factor analysis One way analysis of variance. The findings of my study can be summarized as follows: 1. Every type of po has a general tendency to have more broadened sleeves while it does not show any considerable changes in the total length and in the width of armholes. 2. In the Correlation analysis each part of Po's is handled separately accordign to its chronology and type. The Regreesion analysis makes it possible to provide the sizes of miss-ing parts in excavated clothes and the numeri-cal value of each part needed in the pattern making. 3. The Discrimination analysis of the Po's whose types are unknown leads to the con-clusion that Chongsam and Chikryong Po are classified into Chikryong Po whereas Hongui is classified into Jooui In addition I propose discriminational function by which the age classification is possible discovering the variables associated with time change. 4. Five items-Gerneral Park's clothes Taewongun's clothes and three others produced later for the purpose of preserving Korean costume are proved to be in a differ-ent group and hence analyzed separately in the visual grouping of changui which is done after the cluster analysis and the factor analysis. 5. The results of the one way analysis of variance reveal that there is a difference in each part from period: the back width the sleeve length the sleeve width thelean fig-ure the breasttie length the breasttie width outside quesset upper inside quesset lower outside neckband length insideneckband length etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.151-165
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• 2000

This study was to find out clothing design preferences, according to the clothing self-image of elderly women and to grasp the variety on clothing of elderly women and thereby to help in merchandise production planning and putting the brands into markets and to provide data for establishing a sales strategy a d to itemize women with the goods which can satisfy the desire and taste of consumer groups in the quality market. For this purpose , various researches as above were conducted .The object of this study was a total of 488 elderly women above full 55 from an elderly women and who lived in downtown Pusan. The data were analysed by using MANOVA, ANOVA , factors analysis and frequency analysis, and the Cronbach α was also applied . The conclusions made based on the theoretical background and the result of questionnaire surveys are as follows ; 1. The realistic self-image of clothing showed a similar pattern by age. 50's and 60's showed little difference by item but 70's was greater in variation between items compared to 60's. The response to each item was that most people answered "common" and they showed a pattern that responded low only in items of 'colorful' , individualistic', 'susceptible to fashion'. A similar pattern was shown by age band also in the ideal self-image and the response to each item appeared higher than in the realistic self-image , and also in items of 'colorful', 'individualistic ' , 'susceptible to fashion' the response appeared low and showed a unity. 2. The results of clothing design preferences examined on the self-image according to age are as follows ; 1) Fro jacket in the realistic self-image , 50's and 60's preferred 'tailed collar' , 'set-in sleeve', 'hips long' and 'plain jacket' and 70's agreed to the design preferences in the items except 'open collar' and also in the idealistic self-image , the degree of preference was same. 2) For skirt in the realistic self-image , 50's and 60's preferred 'tight skirt', 'normal length' , 'plain skirt' and it was appeared that 70's preferred 'pleat skirt' , 'medium length' , 'plain skirt'. Also in the idealistic self-image , the degree of preference was same. 3) For blouse in the realistic self-image, 50's preferred 'open collar', 'round neck line' , 'long set-in sleeve' , 'plain separation belt', 'open front', 'zipper' ad 60's agreed to the favorite designs with 50's except puff sleeve, and 70's appeared to prefer fastening buttons without belt. In the designs preferred in the idealistic self-image, 50's agreed with 50's of the realistic self-image and for 60's , the designs except puff sleeve type and no belt type agreed to 50's and 70's except puff sleeve agreed with 70's of the realistic self-image in their design preferences.