Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.21
no.5
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pp.807-820
/
1997
This exploratory research was intended to develop and test a slacks pattern based upon conic model. Data came from measurements of photograph of three subjects. Silhouette of slacks was close fit on waist and hip and loose under hip level. This three-dimensional form was modeled with truncated cones. This conic model was truncated by plane of the waist level, the abdomen level, the hip level, the crotch level and the ankle level parallel to the floor. Two models that have differences in back part of the model were tested. Drafted patterns from two models were taken for each subject. Drafted experimental pattern was operated for slacks pattern. The first step was to make sideseam. Parts over crotch level were moved to both sides. And then to make waistdarts. Experimental pattern had two darts each in front and back. Each experimental slacks was evaluated by sensory test to appearance and comfort by five judges. The results can be summarized as follows. 1) Appearance and comfort of experimental pattern were judged to be satisfactory. Especially these patterns were fitted we18 in waist darts front and back. So we evaluated that was proper pattern for slacks. 2) Model 2 was better in appearance than model 1. But Model 1 was more comfortable in non significant difference. This was supposed to be resulted from fit more closely of model 2. 3) considering preceding results, this geometric model based upon truncated cone was applicable for slacks pattern.
The purposes of this study were to examine the slacks purchases and wearing satisfaction among old-aged women who were highly dissatisfied with their bodies and fit due to physical changes and to provide some basic data needed to develop slacks patterns to meet their needs. A survey was taken among 223 old-aged women aged 60~79 living in Seoul. Using the SPSS 12.0 program, the collected data were analyzed in descriptive statistics, t-test, and crosstab. The result were as follows: the most used place for them to shop slacks was a market(including the Dongdaemun and Namdaemun market), which was followed by a department store and a discount store in the order. As for their preference for slacks according to age, those who were in their sixties most preferred straight-line slacks, while those who were in their seventies semistraight-type slacks. As for fit for each body part according to age, there were significant differences only in crotch length. Those who were in their seventies were more dissatisfied with crotch length than those who were in their sixties, feeling that crotch length was short. As for their experiences of repair after purchasing a pair of slacks, 82.5% said they had such an experience. Most of the repairs with length, waist and slacks width involved in size reduction.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.19
no.2
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pp.91-100
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2017
The primary goal of most clothing-related textbooks currently used in colleges in Korea is to determine how to plan and develop basic patterns. Therefore, they are limited in understanding the patterns and sewing methods of practical, ready-made clothes that are continuously being upgraded. According to previous studies regarding sewing methods in clothing construction textbooks, tight skirt, tailored jacket, and shirt sewing methods have been explained. However, there has been no study on the sewing methods of slacks. Therefore, this study attempted to suggest basic data needed for making slacks through a comparative analysis of their sewing methods for educational purposes. In addition, this paper is meaningful in that it complements clothing construction-related textbooks according to the current trends of diverse clothing design and materials and develops learning materials for the construction of clothes, which are applicable to practice. In this study, the sewing methods and construction procedures of slacks stated in clothing construction textbooks that are currently used in colleges and fashion-related educational institutes were analyzed. Among a total of 47 textbooks on the market, 15 books that cover the cutting and sewing methods of slacks and are suitable to slacks design were used. According to the analysis, most textbooks described the production methods only, without explanation of materials, which can affect clothing construction methods. Because there is a large difference in pocket and slacks procedures by textbook, there is a need for a standardized construction method with changes in clothing materials and design.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the slacks pattern making on the movement -fitness of the hip region. The experimental items were divided into the 5 lower limb movements(M1-M5) and the 12 revision pattern constructions of slacks. This study was done by clothing pressure test sensory evaluation test and the difference shape-transformation of wearing-slacks. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First by the clothing pressure tested by lower limb movements the clothing pressure score of the rabbit leap movement(M3) was the highest of all lower limb movements and the order of it in the another movement was the sit on knee(M4) the sit on chair(M2) the noble sitting(M5) from the highest to the lowest. And in comparision of clothing pressure tested by revision pattern to cover the extend of crotch-length 20。 inclined back-line construction method (CA4) showed the lowest. And in comparision of clothing pressure tested by revision pattern to cover the extend of crotch-length 20。 inclined back-line construction method (CA4) showed the lowest. And also for a role to cover hip circumference extendign CC4(1/5 hip.1cm longrightarrow linked back -line) method showed the lowest. Second by the sensory evaluation test based on the movement and revision patterns it was found that the functional factor score of the rabbit leap movement was the lowest in all movement however the score of revision patterns were higher than basic pattern. Third by the test to show difference in the shape-transformation of wearing-slacks on chair(M2) also need to be analyzed. The ration of the shape-transformation of the knee region showed the least value in the increased patterns of inclined angle of back-line(CA) and the differential methods of back-line inclined pattern making. But that of the hem-line did not show remarkable difference.
The purposes of the study were to present the optimum slacks pattern for elementary school girls and to compare and evaluate wearing ease of the slacks. 3D scans using the Cyberware PS motion platform were carried out for 3 subjects who have different body type. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in CAD. Wearing tests using 3D Scanner was done for evaluation of fitness of slacks. Regression analysis, analysis of variance and post-hoc test were performed for statistical analysis of the data by SPSS program. The procedure and results were as follows: The slacks construction components for pattern drafting were derived from 10 horizontal section maps obtained from 3D scans. The automatic drafting was based on the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calculated using the multiple regression equation. Wearing test represented that the slacks pattern developed to accomodate individual body measurements was estimated more highly than existing patterns.
International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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v.12
no.3
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pp.434-440
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2024
SIZE KOREA updates body measurement data every five years, providing essential information for the fashion industry. This anthropometric data is widely used to diagnose consumer body shapes and develop optimal clothing sizes. Artificial intelligence, particularly machine learning, excels in predicting such body shape classifications. This study seeks to enhance the suitability of clothing design by applying the new analytical methodology of machine learning techniques to better capture and classify the unique body shapes of Korean women. In this study, machine learning techniques such as K-means clustering, Silhouette analysis, and Decision Tree analysis were used to classify the lower body shapes of Korean women in their twenties and identify standard body shapes useful for slacks design. The results showed that the lower body of the age group could be classified into three categories: 'small stature' (the majority), 'tall with an average lower body volume,' and 'medium height with a fuller lower body' (the smallest share). The three-cluster approach is validated through Silhouette analysis, which minimizes misclassification. Decision Tree analysis then further defines the criteria for these clusters, highlighting waist height and hip depth as the most significant factors, achieving a classification accuracy of 90.6%. While this study is not directly related to Robotic Process Automation, its detailed analysis of body shapes for slacks patterns can aid RPA in clothing production. Future research should continue integrating machine learning in human body and fashion design studies.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.37
no.6
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pp.750-763
/
2013
This research suggests pattern design methods for motion through an evaluation of the appearance and motion of three existing kinds of original patterns (K type, N type, and L type) and modified patterns designed by the researcher. The results of the study are as follows. First, the evaluation of appearances showed that the modified patterns of a standing posture received a higher evaluation compared to the original patterns only in N type and in a sitting posture. In addition, the degree of lowering or a natural feel by the pulling of the slacks waist belt in a sitting posture received a higher evaluation than the original patterns. Second, the evaluation of motions showed that modified patterns received a higher evaluation than the original patterns in almost all items. Per each pattern, it showed meaningful differences in questions asking about the degree of comfort as the whole in N type in crouching motions. The L type showed low scores as a whole (both in original patterns and modified patterns) and the K type showed meaningful differences in questions asking about the degree of comfort of the crista iliaca and groin region in the motion of walking at a normal walking pace, ascending stairs and bending the waist 90 degree to the front. Third, the measuring distance the between back waist point of the body and the back waist point of original patterns and modified patterns during motions showed that the modified patterns of all three patterns (N type, L type, and K type) showed less lowering compared to the original forms in the whole pattern as well as individual patterns. The design method of back waist point developed in this research can be regarded as a design method appropriate for motions.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.21
no.3
/
pp.149-160
/
2019
Body fit should be the first point considered for satisfying the functionality of clothes and thus it is the most essential condition. Based on previous research, this article studied the basic slacks pattern with a high body fit using body measurement of adolescent boys. The purpose of this study is to propose basic data for the production of slacks. Research was performed on the physical measurements of adolescent boys from 13-18 years old obtained from the '6th Korean National Physical Standard Reports' by SIZEKOREA. First, six types of experimental slacks basic patterns were produced applying the average body sizes of adolescent boys. Second, a single slacks basic pattern was selected, which received the best response based on appearance from the clothing evaluators. Then, the slacks basic pattern for adolescent boys was finalized by modifying and amending the selected pattern with two more clothing experiments. The data analysis was performed using descriptive statistics, ANOVA, and t-test using the SPSS program. The results of this study have been obtained as follows. The modifications and adjustments were done based on Crotch, Thigh Circumference, waist circumference, and hip circumference.
The purpose of this study was to develop slacks patterns for obese-schoolgirls aged 10~12 by using a 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had a BMI of over $25kg/m^2$. A total of 155 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results were as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, a new slacks pattern considerate of obese-schoolgirls was developed. The basic numerical formulae were as follows: Front and back hip girth of H/4-0.5+1 and H/4+0.5+1.5, front waist girth of W/4+1+0.5, back waist girth of W/4+2+0.5, front crotch extension of H/16-0.5, back crotch extension of H/8-0.5, front dart amount of 1, and back dart amount of 2. Second, according to the new slacks pattern appearance evaluation, the new slacks pattern scored more highly than the existing pattern for silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the new slacks pattern is appropriate for obese-schoolgirls. Additionally, the new slacks pattern was evaluated allowing for the proper space length of the waist, abdomen and hips. This study is expected to serve as important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize a 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns and for future 3D pattern production program development.
The purpose of this study is to research on changes of body surface according to golf movements in designs of golf slacks pattern and reflect it to designs of golf slacks pattern to enhance adaptability. For the first stage of this study, length of body surface was analyzed by using 3D body shape. In second stage, analysis of wearing test of golf slacks is performed to extract major pattern design factor of golf slacks and then research patterns were designed. In third stage, 4 differently designed 1st, 2nd slacks were used for analysis of 3D Clothing air volume. The results of this research is as follow. The variation rate of body surface length according to golf swing posture resulted the longest on back swing posture and follow through posture. Waist circumference-omphalion, thigh and ankle circumference increased more than 10% of body surface during golf swing. Front waist circumference-omphalion, right waist to hip length, left waist to hip length and right back center length were decreased more than 10%. As a result of analysis on measurements of 1st slacks pattern design, waist front center getting in values, waist front center going down value, front hip width, and front crotch extension had similar industrial pattern design. Back center line angle, back crotch extension, and knee center point~back waist center point had significant differences. The designs and ease proposed for golf slacks pattern in this study are waist circumference 75.5 cm(1.8 cm, 2.38%), hip circumference 95 cm(2 cm, 2.11%), crotch length(front: -0.8 cm, -1.25%; rear: -1.8 cm, -2.83%), slacks length 96c m, gradient of C.B.L $10^{\circ}$, crotch extension (back 9.2~10.4 cm, front 3.2 cm).
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