• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
• /
• v.36 no.3
• /
• pp.766-778
• /
• 2019

In this study, Poria cocos bark were extracted by supercritical process, and anti-inflammatory, whitening, and antioxidant effects were measured in comparison with ethanol extract. Also, An effective percutaneous permeation method using a selected formulation of the extract and a drug delivery peptide was proposed. Pachymic acid, known as the anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory compound of the ventricle, is an indicator component and the HPLC analysis shows that the supercritical extract of the pericardium is more than twice that of the Poria cocos bark extract. In order to confirm antioxidative effect of Bombyx mori, DPPH scavenging ability and ABTS scavenging ability test showed that the ethanol extract of Poria cocos Back had lower concentration than the supercritical extract of Poria cocos back. However, RAW 264.7 Measurements of Nitric oxide (NO) production in cells showed lower NO production at the same concentration than the Poria cocos back ethanol extract. In addition, after 72 hours of processing of $20{\mu}g/mL$ of the Poria cocos back extract in B16 melanoma cells, both the intracellular and extracellular melanin extract were effective and the supercritical extract was lower melanin content. No toxicity was observed at the concentration of $800{\mu}g/mL$ in RAW 264.7 cells used in NO production experiments. However, in B16 melanoma cells, even at $50{\mu}g/mL$, both Poria cocos back ethanol extract and supercritical extract showed a survival rate of less than 60%. The liposome formulation and drug delivery peptides were shown to be useful for percutaneous permeation of Supercritical Extract of Poria cocos back using a liposome formulation and a drug delivery peptide. it is expected that there will be great potential for development as a variety of cosmetic materials for Poria cocos back.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.43 no.2
• /
• pp.157-164
• /
• 2017

Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana) is a perennial plant of the genus Stevia, originated in South America. It stores many forms of glycosides, mainly stevioside and rebaudioside A, in which steviol is the basic structure. Steviol glycosides, widely used as sweeteners, are superior to sugar in sweetness. Recently, it has been reported that steviol glycosides are involved not only in the skin whitening and anti-inflammatory effect but also in enhancing skin barrier function through tight junction regulation. Thus, we examined anti-inflammatory effect of rebaudioside A and tried to identify its potential for improving atopic dermatitis as cosmetic ingredients. To investigate the anti-inflammatory effect, cell viability and mRNA expression level of inflammation-related cytokines were measured using mouse macrophage RAW264.7 cells. Cell counting kit 8 (CCK-8) assay was carried out to measure cell viability and the maximum concentration without cytotoxicity was set to $250{\mu}M$. A quantitative real-time RT-PCR method was used for the study of the inflammatory suppression of rebaudioside A. Rebaudioside A inhibited expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) up to 47% and COX-2 up to 41% compared to LPS treated condition. NO synthesis was decreased by rebaudioside A. Also, mRNA expression of interleukin (IL)-$1{\alpha}$, IL-$1{\beta}$ and IL-6 in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells was decreased to 40%, 45% and 59%, respectively, as a concentration-dependent manner. In conclusion, rebaudioside A inhibited the inflammatory response by regulation of cytokine gene expression. From these results, we expect that steviol glycoside, such as rebaudioside A, can be used as a material for improving atopic dermatitis in the future.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.34 no.3
• /
• pp.233-244
• /
• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase, and component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities $(FSC_{50})$ of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf were in the order: 50% ethanol extract $(7.05{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(3.36{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.24{\mu}g/mL)$. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities $(OSC_{50})$ of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50% ethanol extract $(OSC_{50},\;2.17{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(0.64{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.39{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Psidium guajava leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner $(1{\sim}10{\mu}g/mL)$, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect ${\tau}_{50}\;107.5min\;at\;1{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Psidium guajava leaf extracts, showed 1 band in TLC and 1 peak in HPLC experiments (360 nm). One component was identified as quercetin. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Psidium guajava leaf extract revealed 5 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 5 peaks, which were identified as quercetin 3-O-gentobioside (10.32%) , quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-glucoside (isoquercitin, 13.30%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-galactoside (hyperin, 11.34%), quercetin 3-O-${\alpha}$-L-arabinoside (guajavarin, 19.70%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-L-rhamnoside (quercitrin, 45.33%) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of Psidium guajava leaf extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on tyrosinase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(149.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(30.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(17.10{\mu}g/mL)$. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on elastase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(6.60{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(5.66{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(3.44{\mu}g/mL)$. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf can function as antioxidants in bioloigcal systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.37 no.4
• /
• pp.309-318
• /
• 2011

In this study, the antioxidative effect, antibacterial, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, inhibitory effects on elastase and component analysis of Phellinus linteus (P. linteus) extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of P. linteus extracts ($2.94\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed the highest free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity ($OSC_{50}$) of P. linteus extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system was investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction ($0.0072\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of P. linteus extracts on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The P. linteus extracts showed cellular membrane protective effects in a concentration dependent manner ($5{\sim}50\;{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase of P. linteus extract was the highest at 50 % ethanol extract ($6.34\;{\mu}g/mL$), and the inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) on elastase of P. linteus was the highest at ethyl acetate fraction ($14.08\;{\mu}g/mL$). TLC, HPLC chromatogram and LC/ESI-MS of the ethyl acetate fraction obtained from P. linteus extracts were identified interfungin A (PL RPT-1a). These results indicate that extract/fractions of P. linteus can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Extract/fractions of P. linteus can be applicable to new cosmeceuticals for antioxidant, antiaging, antiwrinkle and whitening.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.37 no.2
• /
• pp.191-198
• /
• 2011

In this study, antioxidative effects and inhibitory effects of Geum aleppicum Jacq. extracts on tyrosinase and elastase were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. extract ($4.70\;{\mu}g$/mL) showed the most prominent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC50). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity ($0.22 \;{\mu}g$/mL). The protective effects of extract/fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. against the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($1{\sim}25{\mu}g$/mL), particularly the ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 416.20 min at $10 \;{\mu}g$/mL). The inhibitory effect of G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts on tyrosinase and elastase were investigated to assess their whitening and anti-winkle efficacy. The half maximal inhibitory concentration ($IC_{50}$) of the ethyl acetate fraction on tyrosinase was $95.23\;{\mu}g$/mL. The $IC_{50}$ of 50 % ethanol extract and the ethyl acetate fraction on elastase were $6.27 \;{\mu}g$/mL and $4.31 \;{\mu}g$/mL, respectively. These results indicate that extract/fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Especially the ethyl acetate fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant, antiaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.39 no.1
• /
• pp.1-8
• /
• 2013

In this work, comparative study on antioxidative activities of extracts from Glycyrrhiza uralensis (G. uralensis) produced in Korea and in China and Glycyrrhiza glabra (G. glabra) produced in Uzbekistan was conducted. Among three origins, 50% ethanol extracts (21.15 ${\mu}g/mL$), ethyl acetate fraction (29.15 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction (3.26 ${\mu}g/mL$) of G. uralensis from Korea showed the higher free radical (1,1-phenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) than extracts from other origins. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of extracts from three origins on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay 50% ethanol extract (1.00 ${\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fraction (0.34 ${\mu}g/mL$) of G. uralensis from China showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. 50% ethanol extract and aglycone fraction of G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts from three origins showed cellular protective effects in a concentration dependent manner (5 ~ 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fraction of G. uralensis from Korea (${\tau}_{50}$ = 847.4 min)especially showed cellular protective effects four times higher than that from China (${\tau}_{50}$ = 194.3 min). These results indicate that G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts, which have been used as whitening agent, could be applicable to functional cosmetic ingredient as a natural antioxidant. Judging from the prominent cellular protecitve effects, it is concluded that G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts can protect the skin from $^1O_2$ and various ROS induced by UV.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
• /
• v.57 no.4
• /
• pp.365-371
• /
• 2014

In the present study, we investigated the biological activities of Xylosma congesta leaf ethanol extract (XCO) using a variety of in vitro and cell culture model systems for anti-melanogenic, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant activities. First, XCO markedly inhibited ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone-stimulated melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells. Secondly, XCO marginally induced procollagen synthesis in CCD-986SK cells. Thirdly, XCO dose-dependently suppressed lipopolysaccharide-induced nitric oxide (NO) production in RAW 264.7 cells. XCO did not affect cell viability at different concentrations used in this study, indicating that XCO-mediated inhibition of melanin, procollagen and NO synthesis is not mediated by cytotoxicity. Finally, XCO was found to exert anti-oxidant effect. Taken together, these findings demonstrate for the first time that XCO possesses anti-melanogenic, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant activities, and suggest further evaluation and development of XCO as a functional supplement or cosmetic that may be useful for whitening skin, reducing wrinkles and treating inflammatory responses.

• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.32 no.8
• /
• pp.622-632
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study was to investigate activities as functional cosmetic materials, focusing on Rhododendron brachycarpum (RB) and Rhododendron fortunei (RF). The tyrosinase inhibitory effect, related to skin-whitening, was 32.6% and 39.3% respectively at the concentration of 1,000 ㎍/ml. The elastase inhibitory effect, related to skin anti-wrinkling activity, was 30% and 36.2% at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration. Collagenase inhibitory activity showed 77.7%, and 80.2% respectively at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration, which demonstrated excellent inhibitory activity. For a cell viability test, that measured on fibroblast cells by RB and RF extracts. Furthermore, the cell viability test showed 100.9% and 98.9% with cell viability at 100 ㎍/ml concentration in CCD-986Sk. The protein expression inhibitory effect of RB and RF extracts was measured by western blot at 25, 50, and 100 ㎍/ml concentrations, and the β-actin was used as a positive control. As a result, western blot of RB and RF extracts was measured by the expression inhibition rate of the MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3 protein, and was decreased by 67.2%, 65.5%, 13.6%, and 89.1%, 85.0%, and 62.7% at 100 ㎍/ml concentration. The mRNA expression inhibitory effect of RB and RF extracts was measured by RT-PCR at 25, 50, and 100 ㎍/ml concentrations, and the GAPDH was used as a positive control. According to the results of RT-PCR of RB and RF extracts, the expression inhibition rate of the MMP-1, MMP-2, and MMP-3 mRNA was decreased by 70.1%, 9.1%, 37.9%, and 38.2%, 8.3%, 57.3% at 100 ㎍/ml concentrations. So, RB and RF extracts showed the anti-wrinkle effectiveness as a functional cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.34 no.4
• /
• pp.259-268
• /
• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Castanea crenata leaf were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Castanea crenata left was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($13.6{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.2) < aglycone fraction (2.1). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$ of extract / fractions from Castanea crenata leaf extract / fractions on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was in the order: aglycone fraction (0.8) < 50% ethanol extract (0.5) < ethyl acetate fraction (0.3). The scavenging activity ($IC_{50}$ for ${O_2}^{{\cdot}\;-}$ (superoxide anion radical) generated by NBT method was in the order: ethyl acetate fraction (145.5) < aglycone fraction (65.5). The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, $191.9{\pm}12.2\;min$ at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($9.1{\mu}g/mL$) on elastase was higher than oleanolic and ($13.7{\mu}g/mL$). And the inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($21.6{\mu}g/mL$) on tyrosinase was higher than arbutin ($226.2{\mu}g/mL$). But 50% ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tryosinase and elastase. Flavonoids were contained in Castanea crenata left (96.3 mg / 100 g dried Castanea crenata leaf). And flavonoids contained in ethyl acetate fraction were kaempferol, quercetin, quercitrin, and so on. Quercitrin is the most abundant component. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Castanea crenata can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging free radical and ROS, Castanea crenata leaf extract/ fractions could be used as new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.34 no.2
• /
• pp.83-92
• /
• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Fagopyrum esculetum extracts were investigated. Fagopyrum esculetum used for this study is hulls and dehulled seeds. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activities($FSC_{50}$) and reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions from Fagopyrum esculetum were measured. The aglycone($3.5{\pm}0.0{\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fractions($0.2{\pm}0.1{\mu}g/mL$) of hulls showed the most effective scavenging activities. The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect(${\tau}_{50},\;771.7{\pm}9.9 min$ at 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction of hull and dehulled seeds on tyrosinase were examined ($53.6{\pm}0.5{\mu}g/mL,\;35.6{\pm}0.4{\mu}g/mL$, respectively). And The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction of hull and dehulled seeds on elastase were investigated($3.7{\pm}0.4{\mu}g/mL\;and\;6.0{\pm}0.7{\mu}g/mL$ respectively). But 50% ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tyrosinase and elastase. (+)-Catechin and (-)-epicatechin were contained in ethyl acetate fraction of dehulled seeds. And ethyl acetate fraction of hull contains flavonoids of hyperin, quercetin, rutin and so on. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Fagopyrum esculentum can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Fagopyrum esculentum extract could be used as a new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.