• Journal of Ginseng Research
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.115-122
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• 2020

Background: In aged skin, degradation of collagen fibers, which occupy the majority of the extracellular matrix in the dermis, and changes of aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and skin constituents, such as hyaluronic acid and ceramide, cause wrinkles and decrease skin moisturization to contribute to dryness and lower elasticity skin. Red ginseng (RG) is used as a cosmetic and food material and is known to protect from UVB-induced cell death, increase skin hydration, prevent wrinkles, and have an antioxidative effect. But, in general, RG used as a material is the soluble liquid portion in the solvent, and the part that is not soluble in the solvent is discarded. Thus, we made the whole RG into microgranulation and dispersed in water to produce gel form for using entire RG, and it was named red ginseng NaturalGEL (RG NGEL). Methods: RG NGEL was investigated for matrix metalloproteinases inhibitory activity, induction of Type I collagen, AQP3, hyaluronan synthetase 2, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and filaggrin expression and compared with RG water extract. Results: RG NGEL reduced the levels of UV-induced matrix metalloproteinases and increased Type I collagen in human fibroblast cells and upregulated AQP3, hyaluronan synthetase 2, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and filaggrin expressions in human keratinocytes compared with RG water extract. Conclusion: RG NGEL has the potential as an effective reagent for antiaging cosmetics to improve wrinkle formation and skin hydration.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.66
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• pp.359-368
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• 2023

This study aims to explore the impact of Krill Oil (KO, Superba^TM Boost) on skin moisturization regulation. The research involved five groups: an intact control, a reference group (L-AA 100 mg/kg), and KO groups (400, 200, and 100 mg/kg), each comprising ten mice. Oral administration was conducted for 8 weeks (56 days), during which changes in body weight, hyaluronan, collagen type 1 (COL1), transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1), ceramide, and water contents were analyzed in dorsal back skin tissue. Real-time PCR was employed to assess gene expression related to hyaluronic acid synthesis (HAS1, HAS2, HAS3), COL1 synthesis (COL1A1 and COL1A2), and TGF-β1. Results demonstrated that KO administration significantly increased hyaluronan content, hyaluronic acid synthesis (HAS1, HAS2, HAS3), COL1 content, COL1 synthesis (COL1A1 and COL1A2), TGF-β1 content, TGF-β1 mRNA expression, ceramide content, and water content in a concentration-dependent manner compared to the intact control. Importantly, no discernible disparities were noted between the KO and L-AA groups, even though they received equivalent oral dosages. This study accentuates the potential utility of exogenous KO in the regulation of skin moisture, thus positioning it as a promising avenue for the development of nutricosmetics. Future research endeavors should delve into the role of KO in safeguarding against both intrinsic and extrinsic aging-related skin manifestations, as well as its potential to ameliorate skin wrinkles, in conjunction with its moisturizing attributes.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.113-120
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• 2019

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are glycolipids and have several pharmacological efficacies. MELs also show skin-moisturizing efficacy through a yet-unknown underlying mechanism. Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is a membrane protein that contributes to the water homeostasis of the epidermis, and decreased AQP3 expression following ultraviolet (UV)-irradiation of the skin is associated with reduced skin moisture. No previous study has examined whether the skin-moisturizing effect of MELs might act through the modulation of AQP3 expression. Here, we report for the first time that MELs ameliorate the UVA-induced downregulation of AQP3 in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT keratinocytes). Our results revealed that UVA irradiation decreases AQP3 expression at the protein and messenger RNA (mRNA) levels, but that MEL treatment significantly ameliorated these effects. Our mitogen-activated protein kinase inhibitor analysis revealed that phosphorylation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), but not extracellular signal-regulated kinase or p38, mediates UVA-induced AQP3 downregulation, and that MEL treatment significantly suppressed the UVA-induced phosphorylation of JNK. To explore a possible mechanism, we tested whether MELs could regulate the expression of peroxidase proliferator-activated receptor gamma ($PPAR-{\gamma}$), which acts as a potent transcription factor for AQP3 expression. Interestingly, UVA irradiation significantly inhibited the mRNA expression of $PPAR-{\gamma}$ in HaCaT keratinocytes, whereas a JNK inhibitor and MELs significantly rescued this effect. Taken together, these findings suggest that MELs ameliorate UVA-induced AQP3 downregulation in HaCaT keratinocytes by suppressing JNK activation to block the decrease of $PPAR-{\gamma}$. Collectively, our findings suggest that MELs can be used as a potential ingredient that modulates AQP3 expression to improve skin moisturization following UVA irradiation-induced damage.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.373-378
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• 2010

In order to develop a topical preparation which has a high occlusive property with skin moisturization, nano-structured lipid carrier (NLC) systems along with solid lipid nanoparticle (SLN) were designed. Various NLC dispersions were successfully formulated with Compritol 888 ATO as a solid lipid, Labrafil M 1944 CS as an oil, and Tween 80 as a surfactant. The increase of oil content (5 to 50%) led to the decrease in the occlusion factor in the order of SLN > NLC-5 > NLC-15 = NLC-30 > NLC-50. Particle size of lipid particulates was in the range of 100 to 160 nm. NLC-based carbogels were prepared by the employment of humectants such as urea, glycerin, and Tinocare GL to carbomer gel. NLC-30 gel formulations containing 4 or 8 % of lipid particles showed improved occlusive effect in vitro, compared to NLC-free gel base. Even though NLC-free gel base revealed comparable occlusion effect by itself, the occlusion factor of 4 % NLC-30 gel was about 2-fold higher than that of NLC-free gel base.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.528-534
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• 2017

Placenta is a special organ that contains many nutrients such as growth factors, minerals, and bioactive peptides. Dipeptides of glycine and leucine are major components of porcine placenta extracts (PPE) that has been used as an alternative of human placenta extracts. In this study, we investigated whether major peptides of PPE, Glycyl-L-Leucine (Gly-Leu), L-Leucyl-Glycine (Leu-Gly), and L-Leucyl-L-Leucine (Leu-Leu), affect skin hydration and elasticity in vitro and in vivo. We found that Gly-Leu and Leu-Gly dipeptides induced the expression of transglutaminase 1 in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) whereas Leu-Leu dipeptides did not. Treatment with Gly-Leu or Leu-Gly significantly increased hyaluronan (HA) synthesis in NHEKs and the upregulation of hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2) mRNA level was confirmed. In addition, elastase activity was inhibited in NHEKs treated with Gly-Leu or Leu-Gly dipeptides. Oral administration of Gly-Leu or Leu-Gly dipeptides increased skin hydration and elasticity in UVB-irradiated hairless mice. The significant upregulation of HA in UVB-irradiated hairless mice was observed in response to oral administration of Gly-Leu or Leu-Gly. These results suggest that the major dipeptides of porcine placenta, Gly-Leu and Leu-Gly, are potentially active ingredients for skin moisturization formulations.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.55-61
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• 2017

Objectives : The aim of this research was to determine the diverse effects of Lithospermi Radix Water Extract (LR) on human keratinocyte HaCaT cells, and to examine whether those effects could be applied to the human skin. Methods : We examined effect of LR on the cell viability of using the MTS assay in human keratinocyte HaCaT cells. The antioxidation effect of LR was analyzed relative to the well-known antioxidant resveratrol, using an ABTS assay. Quantitative RT-PCR analysis revealed that, in HaCaT cells, LR influenced the mRNA expression of tight-junction genes associated with skin moisturization. Furthermore, a wound-healing assay demonstrated altered cell migration in LR-treated HaCaT cells. Result : The cytotoxicity was confirmed to be higher in LR at a concentration of $800{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ using the MTS assay in HaCaT cells. In comparison to $100{\mu}M$ resveratrol, $1,600{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ LR showed either a similar or superior antioxidation effect. LR treatment in HaCaT cells reduced the mRNA expression levels of claudin 3, claudin 4, claudin 6, claudin 8, and ZO-2 to less than 0.80-fold, whereas JAM-A and Tricellulin mRNA expression level increased more than 1.33-fold. In addition, HaCaT cells migration was decreased to 83.9% by LR treatment. Conclusions : LR of antioxidation activity will have an anti-aging effect on the skin by reducing oxidative stress. Further studies are required to address the implications for human skin, given LR's effects of altering mRNA expression of tight junction-related gene and decreasing cell migration of HaCaT cells.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.99-104
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• 2007

The skin barrier function is one of the vital functions. Horny layer and epidermis among various skin layers play an important role in protecting body from environmental insults. Stratum corneum is completely formed by differentiation processes from the basal layer and newly formed corneocytes push the older ones from skin surface. In this study we investigated changes of various parameters - capacitance, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), pH and amount of removed corneocytes - according to the stratum corneum's depth. We removed the stratum corneum using tape stripping technique. We found that uppermost stratum corneum play an important role in skin surface moisturization and lower stratum corneum in protecting transepidermal water loss. In addition, skin pH is more acidic than surface pH. In the stratum corneum, skin pH is mote acidic in the deeper layer. Furthermore amount of removed corneocyte is also decreased according to depth because of stronger cell-cell union strength. From these results we suggest that stratum corneum has different characteristics depending on their position.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.413-420
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• 2016

Hydroxy acid has been used to enhance anti-aging and skin moisturization by peeling effect on the skin stratum corneum, and thus it has been widely used in topical products and cosmetic products. Among them, the effect that appears most effectively in a short period of time has been reported to be effected by the pH of the cosmetic formulations. However, there are many difficulties in use due to irritation caused by pH and concerns about side effects. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of applying cosmetics with (1) varying concentrations, (2) types and (3) pH of hydroxy acid on human skin. 22 healthy adults were stained with DHA (dihydroxyacetone) and DC (dansyl chloride) on the forearm, and the skin exfoliation effect was measured after application of the test products. (1) The application of GA (glycolic acid) increased the desquamation by concentration dependent. (2) the test product prepared with neutral pH showed no exfoliation effect. In contrast, SA (salicylic acid) showed a statistically significant exfoliation effect at both acidic pH and neutral pH. (3) The neutral pH SA showed excellent exfoliation effect on bot DHA and DC stained stratum corneum. These results suggest that it is possible to manufacture safe cosmetics without damaging the skin barrier, providing an opportunity to use cosmetics that are expected to exfoliate to people, whose skin is sensitive to pH.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.97-106
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• 2023

In this study, we would like to study the stabilization of the high content of ceramide formulation by containing cyclodextrin. Ceramide, which constitutes the intercellular lipid, a human skin barrier, is a very important ingredient in moisturizing maintenance by protecting moisture in the skin and strengthening the skin barrier. However, since ceramide is poorly soluble, even if it is included in the cosmetic formulation, it has a problem that it is slowly gelled or crystallized and deposited over time, making it difficult to containing a high amount of ceramide. Cyclodextrin is a cyclic oligosaccharide connected with glucose molecules and has a cylindrical structure with hydrophilic outer surface and hydrophobic inner surface, which is known to improve the physicochemical properties of drugs such as improving solubility and absorption of poorly soluble drugs. We demonstrated the stability of the formulation containing high amount of ceramide by measuring hardness and observing emulsion drops with polarized microscope. This study also demonstrated that the high-content ceramide formulation containing cyclodextrin has the effect of preventing gelation or crystallization of ceramide, thus having excellent environmental conditions stability and skin moisturization.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.355-364
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• 2023

Lips have a unique desquamation process and moisturizing properties that are structurally different from ordinary skin. In particular, the turnover cycle of the stratum corneum is fast and the outermost stratum corneum is thin, so the amount of keratin is relatively high, and there are no skin appendages, so it is very vulnerable to maintaining moisture. In this study, we set three targets for lip care : stratum corneum, moisture, and barrier, and aimed to identify the potential of three target-specific ingredients for lips improvement. We confirmed the exfoliating, moisturizing, and barrier improvement efficacy of three target-specific ingredients which also have mild exfoliating effect. Specifically, we verified that Bacillus clausii extract improved skin exfoliation, gluconolactone improved skin moisture retention, and serine reinforced skin barrier function. To test the in vivo efficacy of the complex composed of three target-specific ingredients on the human lips, the lip balm manufactured with non-irritating range of concentration was applied, and we confirmed that it was effective in improving lip exfoliation·moisturizing·elasticity·wrinkles. Consequently, it was confirmed that the beauty and health indicators of the lips could be improved through the exfoliation-moisturization-barrier care of the lips and these ingredients were applied to LG H&H LIPCERIN products.