• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.929-941
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• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권4호
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• pp.561-570
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• 2018

This study defined the changes of mechanical properties of silk fabric according to bias angles and investigated the influence of bias angles and fabric characteristics on hand value. For the experiments, 4 types of commercial silk plain weave fabrics were chosen. All fabrics had the same density, but different yarn characteristics. Fabric samples were cut into 12 different bias angles between $0^{\circ}$ and $165^{\circ}$ with $15^{\circ}$ gap and measured for tensile, shear, bending, surface properties by the KES-FB system. As a result, most mechanical parameters showed an asymmetry shape with $90^{\circ}$. The most flexible and easiest angles are $45^{\circ}$, $135^{\circ}$. Furthermore, the bias angles of silk fabrics were classified into three clusters with mechanical properties such as WT, 2HG, 2HG5, B, and SMD. The parameters according to fabric samples showed significant differences at WT, RT, B, 2HB, and MIU. It showed bigger effects as yarn fineness; in addition, twists were higher except RT. The results of hand value indicated that Koshi and Hari were highest with a bias angle of $75^{\circ}$; however, Shinayakasa was highest at bias angle of $45^{\circ}$. Finally, Shari was lowest at $45^{\circ}$.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.166-173
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• 2009

The natural dyeing of silk fabrics with Rumex crispus L. root extract was investigated. The dyeability of Rumex crispus L. root extract was evaluated with condition of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, methods of mordanting, color fastness and antibacterial activity, etc. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the Rumex crispus L. distilled water extract appears at 274 nm and 336 nm, methanol extract was 274 nm and 356 nm. Optical dyeing temperature of silk fabrics was $70^{\circ}C$. The K/S values of the dyed fabrics were increased with increasing dyeing time. Surface colors of dyed fabrics were various by the used mordants; RP-YR-Y range. The color fastness was improved by adding mordants were added except Sn. Dyed silk fabrics with mordants showed antibacterial activity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권8호
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• pp.1248-1253
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• 2002

Coocus laccae(Laccifer lacca Kerr), usually known as Lac, is a kind of cocoon which is parasitic on the tree around India and China. It contains the laconic acid of red colored dyes and has been used for cosmetic or natural dyeing prior to the introduction of New World cochineal. Nevertheless, the characterization of lac has not been studied, very little informed. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of dyeing conditions fur Lac extract, such as pH of dye bath, concentration of Lac exact dyeing temperature and time, to find out the optimum conditions. The results were as follow. 1. The highest K/S values of the silk and wool was shown at PH 3 and PH 4. 2. K/S values of the silk came to nearly the adsorption equilibrium state at 40$^{\circ}C$ and the curve of wool showed a dramatic increase with the increase of temperature. 3. Dyed silk and wool fabrics showed good light fastness without using mordants.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.109-117
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• 2009

To set up the outstanding and scientific dyeing method in making the condensed liquid of pigment obtained from onion skins and the improved reliability, the following basic experiments were performed. The pigment was extracted in the distilled water at $70^{\circ}C$ and methanol at room temperature and then it was analyzed with LC/MS/MS system (Liquid Chomatography/Mass Spectroscopy/Mass Spectroscophy, LIQ Advantage Max, Thermo Finnigan, USA) for its pigmental characteristics. The unrefined silk and refined silk were dyed by making use of the derived pigment in such a way. The chromameter (CR-200, Minolta, Japan) was used to measure the change in surface color in textiles to be dyed by the extracting condition and the color difference ${\Delta}E$ was determined according to the color difference formula CIE LAB through measuring the psychometric lightness L* and chromaticity coordinates a* and b*.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2009

Quality of seed in the mulberry silkworm, Bombyx mori (L.) is determined by many important factors, wherein unfertilized eggs play an important role. Unfertilization of eggs are caused by several reasons such as, abnormality in the sexual organs of the male and female, abnormal development of the micropylar end of the egg, unfavorable environmental conditions during spinning, cocoon preservation, imperfect handling of moths, mating, ovipostion, cold storing of pupae / moths and indiscriminate use of male moths etc. Though the presence of unfertilized eggs would in no way affect the fertilized ones and their quality directly, the frequency of their occurrence underrates the quality and brings down the hatching percentage. Lower the occurrence of unfertilized eggs, higher is the rating of seed quality. Of the various intrinsic and extrinsic factors and events involved in egg deposition of an adult silk moth, mating is an instinct and a biological obligation for the ultimate perpetuation of the species and a must to provide stimulus for oogenesis and bring about biochemical changes in the spermatophore of the silkworm in order to ensure the presence of sufficient number of normal sperms and testicular fluid in the female reproductive organ, activating ovulation and accelerating oviposition behavior and egg deposition. An attempt has been made in this article to briefly elucidate the characteristics of unfertilized eggs, causes of their occurrence and its impact as well as the significance in silkworm seed production.

• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.118-125
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• 2009

Goryeong Jeesandong tombs No.73 from the 5th century located in Gyeongsangbookdo is the most representative remains of the Daegaya. They were excavated and examined by the Daedong Research Center for Cultural Properties. In this study, the textiles in the Goryeong Jeesandong tomb No.73 is identified and their features are examined through scientific analysis. Due to the fact that the remains were not treated for preservation, we were able to observe many samples under the microscope. Within the hemp textiles both hemp and ramie were made using s-twist threads and the thread count distribution is calculated to be 8.0${\sim}$20.0/$cm^2$. Among the silk, the taffeta was categorized into five types. First, there was plain woven silk which the thickness of the warp and the weft is the same and their rate of threadcount was the same. The second type was thin tabby which is spacious between threads. The third kind was woven by warp and weft which had very different thickness. The fourth type used two threads for each warp. The fifth kind used two threads for the warp threads and used thick threads for the weft for a modified plain weave, and it is the first of its kind to be found. Also, there was a compound weave with warp-faced compound weave among silk.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.35-41
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• 2008

This study investigated the dyeing properties of silk fabrics with Annatto. The dye stuff was extracted by distilled water at $60^{\circ}C$, 10minutes, 1:100 of bath ratio. Dyeability(K/S) and color fastness of silk fabrics were tested under conditions of various concentrations, time, temperature, repeat-numbers of dyeing, pH, mordants variables and methods of mordanting. The highest absorbance was found in methanol extract of Annatto. The optimum dyeing concentration, time and temperature of silk fabrics with Annatto were 25%(o.w.f.), 60min and $60^{\circ}C$ respectively. The K/S value showed higher in post-mordanting than in pre-mordanting, and especially post-Fe mordant showed highest K/S value. In the case of colorfastness, Cu-mordanted fabrics were good washing fastness. Dry cleaning fastness appeared 4-5 grades and light fastness showed lowest grade.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.79-88
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• 1987

In order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's summer fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 78 commercial fabrics of women's summer cloth were classfied into 43 silk and 35 polyester fabrics according to materials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. Polyester fabrics show higher tensile deformation than those of silk fabric. And also polyster fabric has a easy to shape-less and makes a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics is superior to polyester fabrics in formation and shear elasticity building box-shaped silhouette. 3. Polyester fabrics show sufficient ability to recover from tending deformation and drapability On the other hand, the compressibility and bending rigidity of silk fabrics were superior to polyester fabrics. 4. Regardless of materials, the bending properties is closely assocsiated with stiffness, anti-drape stiffness and flexibility with soft feeling. Fullness & softness and crispness is primarily influenced by surface properties. There is substantive relationship between scrooping and sheaing properties.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.155-164
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• 2009

The most important factors in environment that influence the physiology of insects are temperature and humidity. Insects display a remarkable range of adaptations to changing environments and maintain their internal temperature (thermoregulation) and water content within tolerable limits, despite wide fluctuations in their surroundings. Adaptation is a complex and dynamic state that widely differs in species. Surviving under changing environment in insects depends on dispersal, habitat selection, habitat modification, relationship with ice and water, resistance to cold, diapause and developmental rate, sensitivity to environmental signals and syntheses of variety of cryoprotectant molecules. The mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori) is very delicate and sensitive to environmental fluctuations and unable to survive naturally because of their domestication since ancient times. Thus, the adaptability to environmental conditions in the silkworm is quite different from those of wild insects. Temperature, humidity, air circulation, gases and photoperiod etc. shows a significant interaction in their effect on the physiology of silkworm depending upon the combination of factors and developmental stage affecting growth, development, productivity and quality of silk. An attempt has been made in this article to briefly discuss adaptation in insects with special emphasis on the role of environmental factors and their fluctuations and its significance in the physiology of mulberry silkworm, B. mori.