• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.180-199
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• 2021

This study investigated natural aroma fragrance on the fashion image of Galchon, a traditional natural dyeing textile made with immature persimmon from the Jeju area, Korea. Nine fabric pairs consisting of differently colored cotton and silk Galchon with various tones and fabric types were used for subjective evaluation. Thirty five female college students evaluated the specimens using a 7-point scale questionnaire for fashion image-related adjectives. A specimen with three different presentation types that included fabric without fragrance (FO), fabric with citrus fragrance, and fabric with chamaecyparis (FCP) were randomly provided to a subject. As a result, color variables of Galchon were found to be the primary influence on fashion images for both cotton and silk Galchon that showed interaction effects with presentation types. The citrus fragrance increased the feeling of 'Active' while chamaecyparis tended to contribute to a stronger perception of 'Elegance' for cotton Galchon. Finally, these results were used to develop prediction models for fashion images of Galchon that employed color variables and presentation types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.3 s.9
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• pp.45-49
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• 2006

Silk Industry doesn't have enough strategic ability to plan the product for internal and external strong competition and global luxury trend in Jinju. To provide silk fashion planning information and planning method, this study investigated the fabric planning system, such as product system and problems, the method of seeking information, via questionnaires for 68 Jinju silk companies. The results were that the Korean traditional garment, Han-bok and lining of that were given more wight in Jinju Silk for domestic, and the next, neckties. These silk had produced by OEM and didn't have almost my planning ability, but nowadays buyers wanted to get some planning ideas from manufactures, not giving any planning guideline before production, more and more. For Jinju Silk Fabric Companies, planning direction of silk fabrics of vision were needed, that had to be adaptable to manufacture situation and applicable to market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.659-669
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the degradation of silk fabrics dyed with gardenia and sappanwood by Ultraviolet Light(UV). To asses the effect of uv on dyed silk fabrics, physical and chemical properties of samples were explored. K/S value rapidly decreased with increasing exposure time. Mordanting improved ultraviolet-cut ability and the sappanwood dyed samples were superior to those of gardenia dyed in ultraviolet-cut ability. Color progressively faded away as uv exposure time increased, accordingly, $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$, H/VC, ${\Delta}E$ were changed. Morphological change observed with SEM represented degradation of silk fabrics from the outer fibril to the inner fibril. Tensile Strength abruptly decreased as uv exposure time increased and the mordanted samples showed higher tensile strength than the unmordanted. FT-IR analysis confirmed that main peaks at 3297 and $1704cm^{-1}$ band for silk fabric were due to N-H and C=O stretching, gardenia peaks at 1654 and $668cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(ester), C=C(alken) and O-C=O(carboxylic acids) of crocin and sappanwood peaks at $1715cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(cyclic keton) of brazilin appeared on the samples exposed for 14 days, but these peaks indicating colorants after 28 days of uv exposure faded away due to prolonged exposure of uv.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.577-587
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• 2016

Natural dye extracted from Salicornia bigelovii was applied to silk fabrics by dip dyeing process. The dyeing properties and the functionalities of the silk fabrics were determined. Factors affecting the dyeing properties such as dyestuff concentration, temperature, time and pH were studied. The colorimetric parameters $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V/C values were measured to select the optimal mordanting conditions. The color-fastnesses of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were estimated for practical use; in addition, the antibacterial property, ultraviolet protection properties were evaluated. The dyeabilities of silk increased depending on the increasing dye concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. And optimum dyeing results were achieved when dyeing with 300% (o.w.f.) of dye concentration at $90^{\circ}C$ for 100 minutes and at pH 3. The dyed silk fabrics without mordants produced yellow (Y) color and showed yellow (Y) or green yellow (GY) colors depending on the mordants type. The light fastness of dyed and Al mordanted silk fabrics were found to be excellent, and the drycleaning and rubbing fastness were good. The dyed silk fabrics showed no antibacterial property, but Al and Cu mordanted silk fabrics showed 99.9% reduction rate. The ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed silk fabric was improved. And the ultraviolet protection properties of mordanted samples showed very good ultraviolet protection properties.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.54-60
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• 2013

The partial degumming of silk has recently attracted researchers' attention because of its ability to produce silk textiles with new tactile properties, intermediate between the softness of fully degummed silk and the hardness of raw silk. However, it is difficult to obtain partially degummed silk in a homogenously degummed state due to the heterogeneous character of sericin removal. It is also difficult to examine the homogeneity of degumming. In the present study, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy with attenuated total reflection (ATR) geometry was used to evaluate the effect of processing conditions on the degumming of silk yarns. The crystallinity index, calculated from FTIR spectra, showed an increase with the degumming ratio. Therefore, the homogeneity of degumming could be evaluated by the variation of crystallinity index for 30 different spots in silk yarns. The homogeneity of degumming was influenced by the total degumming time, the content of surfactant, and the liquor rate. No effect was observed upon changing the number of degumming cycles at the same total degumming time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.617-628
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• 2001

Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with brazilein(Caesalpinia Sappan), berberine (Phellodendron Amurense), and shikonin(Lithospermum Erythrorhizon) were stored in the air, in the water, and under the ground for about one year. The change of the color, the flexibility, and the breaking strength were measured at the intervals of few weeks. The results are as follows; 1. The color of the fabrics changed most extensively in the fabrics that were under the ground, then in the order of the ones that were in the water, and in the air. The color of the fabrics changed to the achromatic color over the time. 2. The flexibility change among the dyes was similar. All the fabrics became stiff under the ground and in the water over the storage time. 3. In general, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with berberine showed better strength retention than the fabrics dyed with other substances. 4. The strength retention of cotton fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, in the water, and under the ground. Only minuscule change occurred in the strength of the cotton fabrics. The strength of the fabrics that were in the water and under the ground decreased remarkably after 30 weeks and 20 weeks respectively. 5. The strength retention of silk fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, under the ground, and in the water. In the air, the strength on silk fabrics decreased rapidly after 30 weeks. In the water, the strength of silk fabrics decreased more rapidly than that of the cotton fabrics. Under the ground, the strength retention of silk was higher than that of cotton.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.403-412
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• 2010

This study was aimed to consider the influence of hue-tone, dyes, and mordants of naturally dyed silk fabric on color sensibility image factors and to establish color sensibility image scales of naturally dyed silk fabric by color and image descriptors. By single or sequential dyeing with various natural dyes commercially available in domestic and foreign market on the same silk fabric, a total of 66 colored fabric stimuli were prepared and they were used to evaluate subjective color sensibility image by 40 participants. As results, four different color sensibility image factors for naturally dyed silk fabric, 'delight', 'natural', 'modern' and 'attractive' were extracted. All of factors were significantly influenced by hue-tone, dyes, and mordants. Furthermore, by using color sensibility image adjectives and colors, multidimensional image scales were established, which leads to the conclusions that the results of this study help to design color sensibility-oriented naturally dyed fabric and apparel products.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.28-43
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• 2013

Recent trends toward the collaborations among various sectors of academia and research areas have brought interests and significances in new activities especially in the fashion and textile areas. One of the collaboration examples is the recent research projects on 3D virtual clothing systems based on the 3D CAD software. The 3D virtual clothing systems provide simulated apparels with high degrees of fidelity in terms of color, texture, and structural details. However, since real fabrics exhibit strong nonlinearity, anisotropy, viscoelasticity, and hysteresis, the 3D virtual clothing systems need fine tuning parameters for the simulation process. In this study, characteristics of silk fabrics, which are woven by using degummed silk and raw silk yarns, are being analyzed and compared. Anisotropic properties may be measured as warp and filling direction properties separately in woven fabrics, such as warp tensile stress or filling bending rigidity. Hysteretic properties may be measured as bending hysteresis or shear hysteresis by using KES measurements. These data provide deformation-force relationships of the fabric specimen. Three-dimensional effects obtained when using these characteristic fabrics are also analyzed. The methods to control the three-dimensional appearance of the sewn fabric specimens when utilizing a programmable microprocessor-based motor device, as prepared in this study, are presented. Based on the physical and mechanical properties measured when using the KES equipment, the property parameters are being into a 3-dimensional virtual digital clothing system, in order to generate a virtual clothing product based on the measured silk fabric properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.189-194
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• 2016

The objectives of this research were to study the effect of salt-shrinkage finishing of silk on shrinkage degree and dyeing property of cochineal, and to investigate the efficacy of obtained results for imparting surface design effect on silk fabric. Ultimately it was aimed to suggest a technical process for developing natural dyed silk products with diverse design. Premordanted silk fabric was treated with $Ca(NO_3)_2$ solution(gravity: 1.45) at $90^{\circ}C$ for 1 min, washed, dried for further evaluation. The shrinkage of salt-treated fabric was calculated. The effects of salt treatment on the dye uptake of cochineal and colorfastness were investigated. The degrees of shrinkage were 10% and 3% for warp and weft, respectively. The salt treatment resulted in improving dye uptake of cochineal slightly. In addition, it improved colorfastness to washing and light. On the basis of the results, a technical process composed of premordanting, salt treatment and natural dyeing was suggested and using the process, two examples of textile design were presented. It can be concluded to impart various three dimensional surface design effect on silk fabric by applying salt-shrinkage finishing with combination of natural dyeing and mordanting.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.171-179
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• 2017

This study was to investigate the practicality and functionality of water lily(Nymphaea tetragona) leaves as a natural dye resource while searching for various dyeing methods to utilize them. Effect of dyeing condition including methanol ratio of dyebath, dyeing temperature and time, mordanting method, etc were investigated. Colorants were prepared by extraction in methanol and followed drying process. When composing 30% of methanol in the dyebath, better dyeuptake and uniform dyeing were resulted. Pre-mordanting method gave better results in terms of dye uptake than post-mordanting method on the wool fabrics. Fe and Ti were effective for increasing the dye uptake on the silk fabrics. Depending on mordant type and mordanting method, the dyed fabrics got various color showing green, khaki, brownish yellow, dark brown, dark gray and so on. As for color fastness, the silk fabrics dyed with water lily extract showed relatively high rating in light fastness(3~4, 4~5 rating), washing fastness(4~5, 5 rating), and rubbing fastness(4, 4~5 rating). The silk and wool fabrics dyed with water lily leaves extract showed excellent antimicrobial activity over 98% of bacterial reduction rate against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. It was confirmed that water lily leaves can be used as a natural dye resource for dyeing wool and silk fabrics because its colorants showed excellent affinity and antimicrobial functionality as well as good colorfastness.