• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.9 no.2
• /
• pp.59-68
• /
• 2007

"Aloha" is the Hawaiian word that extends the warmth friendliness, and pride of the Hawaiian people to their island's visitors. The aloha shirt truly symbolizes aloha sprit to islanders and visitors alike. The earliest foreign settlers in the Hawaiian Islands were the Chinese and Japanese. They brought with them their myriad talents and trades, among them the art of tailoring. In July of 1936, a shirtmaker named Ellery J.Chun coined the term "Aloha Shirt" an apt characterization for such an eloquent garment. He was the first to make the shirt on a commercial basis. The shirt sold for as little as a dollar in Chun's own King-Smith store. The genuine aloha shirt is now regaled as a work of art and avidly sought out by collectors. When tourism came to Hawaii in the late 1930s, these unusal shirts were among the first thing that visitors had to have. Local designers and tailors worked quickly to meet the demand and began to expand the range of decoration to include palm trees and romantic beaches, tropical jungles and volcanoes, exotic flowers and scenes from polynesian legend. Therefore the aloha shirt had been born. The functional use of creative colors and amazing artistic renderings in these shirts certainly capture the simplicity and sprit of Hawaii. Aloha shirt is dress that display mystery and charm of Hawaii and cultural symbol of condensed Hawaiian mind. Furthermore, the innocence with which Hawaiians formerly translated their life and heritage onto fabric ranks these shirts with the finest of American folk art. Aloha shirt is made from cotton, silk, rayon in present and past. Most important design element of Aloha shirt is print pattern. Main print pattern of Aloha shirt are all over pattern, horizontal pattern, border pattern, Japanese pattern, picture pattern and back panel pattern. In this study I investigate the design characteristics and development process of aloha shirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.4 s.103
• /
• pp.82-95
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to figure out the types and characteristics of golden decoration technique out of various techniques of expressing patterns on the costumes. This study reviews both costumes decorated with gold in the relics of Chosun dynasty and literatures focused on domestic and Chinese documents and records. The types of decoration technique using gold include JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (gold powder and flake attaching technique), and GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique). The JigGeum is weaved using golden thread instead of silk thread in order to express patterns. The InGeum technique is to attach gold or silver powder or thin gold or silver flake on the surface of the fabric. The GeumSaJaSu technique is to embroider with gold thread on fabrics. 82 pieces of costumes made using gold in Chosun dynasty era are analyzed. The results follows; In terms of types of technique, is shown to take the majority; JigGeum (43.90%), InGeum (30.49%), GeumSaJaSu (23.61%). Looking at the patterns used by the types, plant pattern and letter pattern are mostly used for both the JigGeum and the inGeum. In terms of the characteristics by their uses, the InGeum is used for court dresses (52%). It is also used for ordinary dresses (12%) and for other purposes (36%). It is mostly used in the court dresses in the late period of Chosun dynasty era. The JigGeum is used for ordinary dresses (47.22%), for court dresses (44.44%) and for other purposes (8.34%). It is evenly used for court dresses and ordinary dresses.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2012.03a
• /
• pp.43-43
• /
• 2012

본 연구에서는 대량으로 손쉽게 구 할 수 있는 식물염료를 확보하여 새로운 천연색소자원을 탐색하기 위해서 진행되었으며, 시료의 최적 추출 조건을 확립하고 추출된 색소의 실크에 대한 염색 특성을 살펴 최적 염색조건을 설정하고, 염색견뢰도를 평가하여 수수 등겨 추출물의 천연색소로의 활용에 대한 기초 자료를 마련하고자 하였다. 수수 색소 추출 시 생산성과 편리성을 고려하여 추출은 pH 4, 추출온도 $60^{\circ}C$, 추출시간 24시간이 적정조건으로 제시되었으며, 수수 추출물에 함유되어 있는 탄닌의 최대흡수파장은 282nm로 나타났다. 견직물의 pH에 따른 염색 특성은 pH가 증가할수록 K/S값이 증가하여 염착량이 증가하였으며, 염색온도가 높을수록 염색시간이 길어질수록 염착량이 증가하는 경향을 보여주고 있다, 염색온도가 높을수록 염색시간이 경과될수록 색상은 $Y{\rightarrow}YR$로 변화되는 것을 알 수 있었으며 염색온도가 높을수록 채도가 증가하였다. 욕비가 클수록 염착량은 감소하였으나, 채도는 약간 증가하는 것을 알 수 있었다. 매염제 처리에 의한 색상변화에서는 Al, Ni 매염은 색상변화는 적었지만, Cu와 Fe 매염은 명도와 채도를 크게 감소시키고 아울러 색상도 Cu는 적갈색으로 Fe는 진회색으로 변화되었다. Sn과 Ti 매염에 의해서 명도는 약간 감소하고 채도는 약간 상승하여 연한 주황색으로 색상이 변화하였다. 설정된 조건에서 염색된 염색포의 일광견뢰도는 2~3급, 세탁견뢰도 변퇴색은 2~3급, 오염은 4~5급으로 나타났다. Fe로 매염된 염색포의 일광견뢰도는 증가하여 3~4급으로 나타났으며, 매염제 처리에 의한 세탁 견뢰도는 같거나 약간 증가되는 것으로 나타났다.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.47 no.2
• /
• pp.88-92
• /
• 2005

In order to make pure dyestuff extract from polygonum tinctoria, we tried to traditionally-using cockle shell which the extracted water should be filtered in indigo for 8 hours and at the $40^{\circ}C$, and 4.0 pH. The 1.631g of powder dye could be produced when the 10.0 ml of aqueous ammonia was added into the solution, which had been filtered for 8 hours with the 300 g of indigo plant and the 2.51 of water. The main components of two maded -dye which has traditionally made of this and has purely made of that compared by TLC, HPLC, LC/MC techniques. Finally, the antibacterial activities and deodorization ratio of silk fabrics with natural indigo were carried out, too.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.13-27
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to understand the general process from textile design till fashion design and to understand the relation between the body structure by using the x-ray technique. The research method was to see background of the anatomic feature and human skeletal X-ray projection through historical aspect of publications, the Internet, and paper. In terms of production, in order to present a design that takes into account the unique silhouette of the human body without distorting the shape of the human skeleton, X-ray images that were reconstituted using a computer graphic tool (Photoshop CS) were reproduced into the fabric as intense images through the digital Textile Printing technique that is capable of expressing fine and delicate details, and applied into the design. An original design was developed that emphasized the impression of the human body being projected and the shape of the human skeleton realistically expressed in terms of silhouette and detail. The results are as follows: First, Body has a anatomic formative characteristic and its formativeness becomes as a great motive for the artistic expression and thereby it becomes more unique and available for new design expression. Second, Using the 'body frame' as the motive of the research, there's mainly tried to make an unique expression. Third, according to reconstructing human skeletal X-ray projection by using Adobe Photoshop CS2, it can be expressed strong and unique design. Forth, DTP which is being used as an essential technique, expresses the body frame realistically and being used the special type of functional product and silk. Likewise by discovering the diverse formativeness of our body frame and reflecting the sense of humanity into the pieces there's been able to make and develop an unique fashion design. I sincerely hope there is a hug progress in this research in this area.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.43 no.8 s.210
• /
• pp.1-12
• /
• 2005

Ash solutions derived from vegetation have been known for their good mordanting action. They are used as finishing agents because they are able to promote dye uptake. It is expected that the types of ash solutions may have been different worker by worker since the workers have employed easy-to-get plants, when we reviewed old literature. However, the ash solutions are being used without clear distinctions between their characteristics. In this study, camellia ash solution and rice straw ash solution were prepared according to traditional methods. Using these solutions as mordanting agents, natural dyeing experiments with Caesdpinia Sappan were peformed. Following the dyeing procedure, the effect of the type of ash solution on the color of the dyed fabric was evaluated. The results showed that the ash solution mordanting effect us not dependent upon the components of the ash solution. It was also demonstrated that the mordanting effect was not based on the action of the metallic ions in the ash solution. The pH values of the ash solutions were adjusted in order to investigate the effect of changes in ash solution alkalinity on the dyeing process. The pH values ranged from neutral or weak acidity to the alkaline range in order to evaluate the characteristics of the mordanting tv the ash solutions.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.23-32
• /
• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional indigo dyeing. Leaf powder colorants were prepared by hot air($50^{\circ}C$) and room temperanrre($25^{\circ}C$) drying methods from fresh leaves. The presence of indigo in the leaf powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. All the powder colorants showed broad absorption at 602 nm as same as synthetic indigo. Dyeing was done by reduction method with sodium hydrosulfite and sodium hydroxide. Leaf powder colorants produced blue color on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants prepared at room temperature drying were more stable for long term storage than that prepared by hot air drying. Thus, the powder colorants prepared by room temperature drying was reduced and dyed in one-step process without sodium hydroxide in the dyebath for further investigate dyeing properties. K/S value of the fabric dyed without sodium hydroxide was much higher than one dyed with sodium hydroxide. Regardless of the addition of sodium hydroxide, rubbing fastness was fairly good showing above 4 rating. Fastness to dry cleaning and light of the fabrics dyed without sodium hydroxide were mote higher than that dyed in alkaline condition.

• 보존과학연구
• /
• s.14
• /
• pp.94-108
• /
• 1993

The cultural properties of cloth are of animal orgin (silk), or of vegetable orgin(cotton, hemp, ramie). As clothes are of an orginic material, they were subjected to damage by chemical, phisigical or biological factors, viz, moulds insects, lights, humidity and temperature changes, etc. And these factors promote that clothes generally result from various types of deterioration. In 1992, We were performed the conservation treatments for total 9 pieces of cloth, such as 3 pieces of General PAK SHIN-RYONG(Important Folklore Material No.110) 3 pieces of Madam Jung(Important Folklore Material No.115) and 1 piece of King Se-jo(Important Folklore Material No.219). The procedure of the conservation treatment for clothes describe the following below. 1) The washing and dry-cleaning to remove the contaminated substances from cloth was used 0.2% stearyl potassium soap solution and the mixture solution compound of n-Hexane, C6H14. and n-Decane, C10H22. And after the washing and dry-cleaning, the dry of clothes was carried out in a warm condition. These steps were repeated in 2 times over for each cloth. 2) The repair of clothes was attached the similar textiles to stronger fabric linings by needlework.3) The reprodution was made for cloth of King Se-jo to equalize the type, color, quality and skill of materials. 4) After these above procedures, all clothes fumigated to prevent the biodeterioration by using the mixed gas of methyl bromide and ethylene oxide as insecticide and fungicide. 5) Finally for the purpose to keep in a safety long-term condition, the treated clothes sealed with Biaxially Oriented Polyvinylacohol Film(BO-PVA film) and Helium, purity 99.999%, filled up in sealed BO-PVA film bag.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.371-381
• /
• 2010

The pine needles can be used for four seasons in normal living and it can be taken friendly everywhere as it is distributed over 50% in Korea. The pine needles consist of vitamins, protein, minerals, essential oil and enzyme related to antimicrobial activity. It has effect like high blood pressure, neuralgia and hanged over by terpene, glucokinin, rutin, apigenic acid and tannin. Also the extract of them can be used for dyeing of fabrics. However, the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the volatile components of the pine needles extract and functionality. The pine needles extract was dyed into various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool and soybean) and mordanted with Al, Cu, Cr, Fe and Sn. The extracted aroma compounds were compared by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The major volatile compounds of pine needles verified by using SPME were alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, beta-phellandrene, caryophyllene, ethanon, benzen. A total of 15 compounds were identified by using the SPME fibers. In the UV-visible spectra, the maximum absorption of wavelength of the pine needles ethanol extract appeared at 460, 630nm for chlorophyll component and at 237, 281nm for tannin component with the pine needles distilled water extract. Most of sample showed high antibacterial effect in none mordant but wool fabric showed high antibacterial effect in mordants. The result of UV block test showed a superior ability of blocking ultraviolet ray infiltration in all sample.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.151-162
• /
• 2012

Regarding experimental study on the dyeing properties of natural dye, I have dyed silk fabric with Styphnolobium japonicum, sappan wood, and indigo. The results of the experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, K/S and CIE Lab chromaticity co-ordinated. The results are as follows: In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, dyeing with sappan wood, which is red related color, after dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum, which is yellow related color, is more efficient. When dyeing was maden by complex of Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, Dyeing method by the order of "Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$mordanting" made the best result of complex dyeing. In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and Indigo, dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum after the indigo made the best result. When dyeing with indigo first, and then Styphnolobium japonicum, yellow color was not well dyed, and low level of saturation caused lusterless color. Ordering of Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$indigo made the best result of complex dyeing in case of complex dying with Styphnolobium japonicum and indigo. Dyeing order, sappan wood first and then indigo last method shown 560~640 nm wavelength of maximum absorption which most color was blue related. In contrast, Indigo first and then sappan wood method shown 460~560nm wavelength of maximum absorption which color was red related. Complex dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was showing lusterless color. In case of dyeing with red and blue, dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was not appropriate.