• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.40-47
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• 2004

Alkaline treatment gives Sea-Island type yam to produce microfiber and silk-like touch. But this treatment have some problems in dyeing and finishing process. To solve some problem occurred in dyeing and finishing of polyester fabric, the ultrasonic treatment technique was used recently. This study was carried out to confirm the effect of the ultrasonic treatment on alkaline weight loss finishing of polyester fiber under general alkaline treatment conditions; NaOH concentration 2, 3, 4, and 5％, treatment time 5, 10, 15, and 20 minutes, treatment temperature 70, 80, 90, and 99'E, respectively. On the other hand, the three way lay out method was used to test of significant obtained data from alkaline treatment. It was found that weight loss increased with increasing the NaOH concentration, temperature, and time. Also, in case of PET/Co-PET fabrics by ultrasonic, weight loss and dissolution of microfiber were superior to PET/Co-PET fabrics without ultrasonic. Tensile strength and modulus decreased with increasing NaOH concentrations and hydrolysis time. Therefore, the effect of alkali hydrolysis by ultrasonic application was better than that of the conventional method.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.195-207
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• 2016

In this study, we examined the influence of the pigment characteristic and dyeing condition on dyeing properties and functionality by using Perilla Frutescens L. Britt extracts, in which ethanol, distilled water and NaOH solution were used as 3 different solvents. Changes in dyeing conditions include variations in dye concentration, dyeing temperature, time and pH on dye uptake, and K/S values were compared according to these changes. Additionally, color changes were observed according to the use and types of mordant. Ultraviolet-visible spectrum was utilized to investigate the pigment characteristic, and as a result, chlorophyll was identified in ethanol extract, whereas tannin was identified both in distilled water extract and NaOH solution extract. By using FT-IR analysis, these tannins in distilled-water-extract and NaOH solution extract were verified to be hydrolyzable tannin. When dyeing silk, dye uptake increased as dye concentration, dyeing temperature and time increased, while it decreased as pH of the extract increased. Fabrics dyed without a mordant produced Y-series colors, and fabrics dyed with mordants showed various colors depending on the mordant types. Even though color fastness to washing and light was unsatisfactory, fastness to rubbing and perspiration showed relatively high grade. Moreover, deodorant ability of dyed fabric improved.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 2002년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.24-29
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify apparel fabrics according to rustling sounds and to analyze their transformed colors and mechanical properties. The rustling sounds of apparel fabrics were recorded and then transformed into colors using Mori's color-transforming program. The specimens were clustered into five groups according to sound properties, and each group was named as 'Silky', 'Crispy', 'Paper-like', 'Worsted', and 'Flaxy', respectively. The Silky consisted of smooth and soft silk fabrics had the lowest value of LPT, $\Delta$f ARC, loudness(z) and sharpness(z). Their transformed colors showed lots of red portion and color counts. The Crispy with crepe fabrics showed relatively low loudness(z) and sharpness(z), but diverse colors and color counts were appeared. The Paper-like showed the highest value of LPT, $\Delta$f and loudness(z). The Worsted composed of wool and wool-like fabrics showed high values of LPT, $\Delta$f loudness(z) and sharpness(z). The transformed colors of the Paper-like and Worsted showed the blue mostly but color counts were less than the others. The Flaxy with rugged flax fabric had the highest fluctuation strength, and their transformed colors showed diversity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권6호
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• pp.891-909
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• 2019

This study uses a documentary survey, field survey and textile's characteristics to understand the history of the Punggi Viscose Rayon. Punggi's textile industry grew as people migrated from Pyeongan Province in the 1900s. Little is known regarding early production conditions, but documents show cottage industries in the 1940s made union cloth using silk and rayon. The Punggi weaving industry peaked after the Korean War and declined in the late 1950s. Punggi rayon at that time was mainly used for lingerie or lining, with miliary or polka dot patterns. The industry regained momentum when the power loom was introduced in the 1960s. Manufacturers also started weaving union cloth with synthetic fibers and rayon. In the 1990s, jacquard looms enabled the weaving of elaborately colored and patterned textiles for outer fabric that made Punggi rayon famous. Most Punggi rayon looms have developed in the order of manual handlooms, semiautomatic looms, Jokdapgi, to power looms. Looms equipped with dobbies or jacquard devices also changed from wooden dobby looms to wooden jacquard looms and then to iron jacquard looms. Punggi Rayon currently has its own trademark and tag, but lacks specific regulations on the blending of fibers.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2007

Opuntia Ficus has been an epiphyte plant since it was introduced in Cheju island as an ornamental plant two hundred years ago. And now it is grown as many as it is designated to local souvenir No.35. The fruit of this plant contains red-purple sap, which is due to be used in coloring clothes. This study aims at confirmation of use possibility as eco-friendly dyeing stuffs on extract from opuntia ficus fruits and contributing to the practical use of natural dyeing. Thus this study was investigated the dyeability of extract from opuntia ficus fruits on the silk fabric. Antioxidants were used ascorbic acid, L-cysteine, prophyl gallete. After dyeing, K/S and dye fastness were measured. The results were as follows; Maximum absorption band of extract from opuntia ficus fruits was 534.5nm. The appropriate dyeing condition was bath ratio 50:1, dyeing temperature $30^{\circ}C$, dyeing concentration 50%, dyeing time 50min, pH 3,concentration of all antioxidants 3%. Addition of antioxidants brought increase of K/S value. And K/S value and dye fastness had the greatest value when ascorbic acid was added

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.260-269
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• 2012

The aim of this study was to develop higher-value added dyeing materials with the fermentation-dyeing -mordanting system using only the natural ingredients by integrating traditional fermentation techniques with traditional dyeing technique. Nuruk, which is used mainly to ferment traditional foods, was used as a fermenting agent to ferment 5 different types of materials. Acidic burnt alum and alkaline calcium hydroxide were used as natural mordants. The dyeability checked after fermentation showed that both cotton and silk mordanted with Gardenia jasminoides did not show notable changes, and 10 days of fermentation was found to be appropriate. Sophora japonica L. performed better on cotton materials mordanted with slaked lime, and alkaline mordants were found to be more effective than acidic ones. With Rheum coreanum, a fermentation period of more than 24 days ($5^{th}$ fermentation) worked best on cotton material, showing a 5 fold increase in the K/S value after the $5^{th}$ slaked lime fermentation than with no fermentation. Rhus javanica L. was found to increase the color fastness to gentle washing and the fastness to light was found to possess 4 means that natural dyed fabric have the highest level of durability, the grade 1 the lowest level of fastness.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.735-746
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• 2021

Uiwon-gun (1661-1722) and Sim Ikchang (1652-1725) were people of the upper classes of the Joseon Dynasty, who's belts woven with thread were found in their graves. The purpose of this study is to find a term suitable for the belts of these two people and to reveal the characteristics of the two belts and decipher the 8-character text marked on Shim Ikchang's belt to understand its meaning. The terms used during the Joseon Dynasty related to woven belts include "Gwangdaho", "Daeja", "Bunhapdae", "Sagagda", "Bangseungah", and "Samunjikdae". Among these terms, "Gwangdahoe" is the most suitable to indicate the belts of for both belts. The belts are made of a silk fabric of narrow width. The size of Uiwon-gun's belt is 2.8×199cm, and because it is folded in half lengthwise and sewn, the original width is 8cm. It was woven in the imitation gauze technique. Sim Ik-chang's belt measures 10.5×258cm and is decorated with a woven net at the end. There are water and mountain patterns on both ends of the belt, with 11 lines of flower patterns equally spaced between. The belt is damask, the inscription part is made of brocade with letters expressed in golden thread. The meaning of the inscription is "Made in Hanbu. May you live a long and healthy life".

• 보존과학회지
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• 제38권3호
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• pp.243-253
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• 2022

본 연구에서는 청송심씨묘 출토 금직물 유물 2점(부금 원삼, 직금 치마)에 대한 비파괴 분석방법을 이용하여 유물 상태, 섬유 재질, 표면 오구(汚垢), 금속사에 대한 재료적 특성을 파악하였다. 출토 당시 유물의 상태는 모두 갈변되어 본래의 색상을 확인할 수 없으며, 섬유재질은 SEM과 FT-IR의 Amide I, II, III, IV 피크와 정색 반응 결과들로 누에고치로부터 얻은 견 섬유임을 확인할 수 있었다. 표면 오염물인 흰색 오구와 검정색 오구는 FT-IR, XRF 분석결과 시신의 부패와 미생물 분해로 나타난 지방질, 단백질 등의 가수분해 물질임을 확인할 수 있었다. 금속사의 금박층을 XRF로 분석한 결과 금(Au)으로 확인되었으며, 금속사 배지에 대한 FT-IR, 정색 반응 결과 배지의 접착제 성분은 Amide I, II, III와 3000 cm^-1 전·후의 Amide A, B의 결과로 동물성 교(膠)로 확인되었고, 배지는 정색 반응 결과 국내에서 생산된 닥나무 인피 섬유인 한지로 확인할 수 있었다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.321-331
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• 2016

아세트알데하이드가 직물에 미치는 손상여부, 손상정도는 다른 재질에 비해 명확하지 않다. 본 연구는 견, 면, 모시, 삼베의 무염색, 천연염색시편을 대상으로 아세트알데하이드 0.1, 0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500, 1000 ppm 농도에서의 손상, 손상농도에서 온 습도 조건에 따른 손상 가중, 손상농도에서 열화직물시편의 손상을 광학적, 화학적, 물리적 측정방법으로 평가하였다. 이 결과, 아세트알데하이드 농도 1000 ppm/day에서 면_황색시편의 색차가 증가하였고, 고습조건($25^{\circ}C$, 80%), 고온조건($30^{\circ}C$, 50%), 고온 고습조건($30^{\circ}C$, 80%)에서 황색시편들의 색차 증가와 변퇴색등급 감소가 뚜렷하였으며, 고온 고습조건($30^{\circ}C$, 80%)에서 면_무염색시편의 아세트산이온 농도 증가, 견_무염색시편의 pH 감소가 나타났다. 열화직물의 경우, 흑색시편들의 아세트산이온 농도가 증가하였다. 이를 통해 아세트알데하이드가 전통직물에 미치는 손상은 크지 않으나 황색직물의 탈색과 열화된 흑색직물의 아세트산이온 농도 증가가 예상된다.