• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.971-977
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of nautral dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rhusjara ica was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Rhusjara ica were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Rhusjara ica solution was 299 nm. The color of Rhusjara ica solution was affected by pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Rhusjara ica was 6$0^{\circ}C$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 80~10$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30 min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treatment, specially Fe, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. In the case of Rhusjara ica fastness was increased by mordanting treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1353-1360
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to develop a cultural products design of korean image using fabrics. The study is carry out in literature research methods and make sample product. We examine existing researches about cultural product design development to understand developed items, materials, and design directions. The brainstorming method and the established literature researches were used to obtain the design components of Korean image. A cultural products design was developed into the decorative structural details. The results can be summarized as follows: Korean image is pure, passive, gentle, small, and lasting life-force at weeds and wild flowers. Korean form is rounded curve and soft silhouette as streamy, not exaggerate. Korean color is not a finishing treatment, non-dyed natural color, or pastel, light greyish, and dull tone. Korean textile is a natural materials as linen, ramie, and coarse silk. Final sample products are table supplies, home goods and bed goods applying the sewing method of tuck, quilting, top-stitching, patch work, applique and embroidery.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.19-27
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• 2012

Shinyeojuryeom is a set of bamboo blinds[Juryeom] enclosing the Korean litter for transporting a mortuary tablet of royal family[Shinyeo] in Joseon dynasty. The blinds were made up of twigs laid horizontally which were joined together by vertical threading, then they were lined and backed with silk fabric. A number of historical documents such as Gukjosangryebopyeon(1758), JeongjoGukjangdogameuigwe(1800) and Gukjangdogam- myeongseseo(1905) provide information on material and structure of the litter and blinds. How- ever, detailed dimensions or specific ingredients of some of the materials were not clearly explained. In order to complement these missing or unclear parts, a close examination and scientific analysis of the litter's material was undertaken. The result newly identified materials of the gold tip tassels and pigments used on twigs as well as partly confirmed information on historical records. This new information will help further understanding and future production of a replica.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.551-561
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• 2003

The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.19-27
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Sophora japonica L. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Sophora japonica L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Sophora japonica L. solution was 367.6mn, rutin solution was 365.6mn. The color of Sophora japonica L. solution was affected at pH 2 and pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Sophora japonica L. was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 10$0^{\circ}C$, 60min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment, especially Fe, Sn, Cr. In the case of Sophora japonica L. light fastness was increased by Fe mordanting. Perspiration fastness was better in acidic solution than that in alkaline solution. Fastness to rubbing and dry-cleaning were good in general.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.61-69
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to identify the utility value with material of natural dyeing and to examine the dyeability and antibiosis of fabrics dyed with Solanum nigrum extract. The results obtained are as follows. First, the color tone of dyed fabrics was tinged with from yellow series to green series, in the chrominance the fabric dyed with Fe mordant was showed the highest value. Second, colorfastness to dyeing showed difference as to mordants, but colorfastness to dyeing except for sunlight colorfastness showed the good colorfastness result on the whole. Third, in the test results of antibiosis, the dyed both cotton and silk fabrics showed the very excellent antibiosis effect for bacteria but showed the insignificant effect for fungus.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.26-33
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• 1996

The berberine from Amur cork tree is natural yellow dye and can be extracted more easily by water. The berberine is basic dye and was extracted at 90-95$^{\circ}C$. We have obtained the following results; 1. K/S value in the abstract of dye was increased by time-elapsing, but the reasonable time was between 90-120min. 2. The reasonable weight of Amur cork tree in the abstract of dye was between 10-20 g/L. 3. We obtained various colors in case of using mordants. ―In case of 10g/L and 20g/l, the reasonable value of mordant was 5-10%(owf). and in case of using tannic acid and $FeSO_{4}$ we could obtain high K/S value. 4. &{\lambda}_{max}& of UV spectra was shown 420nm. 5. Genarally fastness of drycleaning indicated more than grade 4. but it of perspiration was more stable in acid than alkali.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 1997.11a
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• pp.57-62
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• 1997

The purposse of this study is to evaluate the effect of mechanical properties on handle of fabrics for some of the korean women's clothes, 160 different kinds of commercial silk and polyester fabrics were used for this study. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB fabric testing systems and six hand judgements. and also, the technique of stepwise-block-regression method was applied to investigate relationship between sensory and mechanical properties. Finally, we have obtained useful formulas for calculation the hand valuer of fabrics for korean clothes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.137-154
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the transition of luster material after the tweentieth century. This study was conducted by means of designer collection, journal of fashion, museum data, fabric exhibition and Internet data. The results of this study were as follows: Before the synthetic fiber period, the luster materials were used satin, chamuse, gauze, damask brocade and velvet, except cashmere, mohair and rayon. They are made from silk by the way of giving difference surface property. But since 1960s, it has used not only synthetic fiber with smooth surface but also vinyl, latex, natural leather, synthetic leather and metal. Luster material recently has a tendency to natural and soft shiny, example silket finish, chintz finish, silico coating finish with paper touch feel and so forth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.150-162
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• 2014

This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.