• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제24권4호
• /
• pp.19-29
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate Renaissance wall-covering fabrics through Flemish paintings, that provides the details of the origin and development of background of modern wallcovering. The methods of the study are as follows. First, the background of textile development of Flanders in the 14^th to 16^th centuries were examined through a prior study. Second, the shape and use of wallcoverings in paintings painted during that time were analyzed and the process of changing to modern forms was studied. The residential environment with many stone buildings in relatively humid and cold weather created a need for decorative fabrics. Back then, the wool and flax fabric were not allowed to be worn on the body, so the materials were used for the development of interior fabrics. The characteristics of wall covering in Flemish paint can be summarized with movable, allegory, and decoration. Movable stems from the arrival of the emerging aristocrats of Flanders, who had enormous commercial trade and carried decorative fabrics; the mobility has become an allegory in reality as the royal and aristocratic use of wall-decorated fabrics is the symbol of authority. In addition, unlike Italy, where silk was procured from the East, fabrics manufactured using flax and wool were not suitable for clothing in terms of religion and practicality and were used to decorate walls.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제29권11호
• /
• pp.1520-1526
• /
• 2005

Henna is a natural colorant and has been used to dye hair, skin and leather since civilization began. It has reddish brown to orange shade. The major color components of Henna are Lawsone(2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthaquinone) and Luteolin (3',4',5,7-tetrahydroxy-flavone). In this study, various fibers containing the nitrogen component, especially used fur underwear, were dyed with Henna under various dyeing conditions, then dyeing characteristics, color fastness, and anti-bacterial properties were evaluated. from the results, Henna has good affinity to the chlorinated wool>wool>Pu/nylon>nylon>soybean>silk in decreasing order. The color fastness of the wool fabric dyed with Henna to washing, dry-cleaning, and perspiration showed 4-5 grade. The color fastness to light was 3rd grade. These results are relatively good comparing with other natural dyes. Moreover dyed fabric with Henna showed excellent antibacterial activity.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제25권8호
• /
• pp.1484-1492
• /
• 2001

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dye, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Lithodpermum officinale were studied. Appropriate extraction, dveing and mordanting conditions of Lithodpermum officinale were determined, and the effect of mordanting no dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbances of Lithopermum officinale solution were at 521 and 561 mn, shikonin solution were 517 and 556 mn. According to the UV-VIS spectroscopy of shikonin solution showed batho chromic shift with the increase of temperature and the absorbance of shikonin solution increased with the increase of temperature. The color of Lithodpermum officinale solution was affected by pH 8∼9, they became dark, reduced reddish and bluish. The optimum conditions for extraction from Lithodpermum officinale were at 80$\^{C}$ and for 1 hour and at 25$\^{C}$ for 24 hours. And effective dyeing conditions with silk fabric were temperature at 80∼100$\^{C}$ and period for 60min. K/S value and color fastness of dyed fabrics were increased by mordanting treatment. In the case of Lithodpermum officinale light fastness was better than Sophora japonica, Gaesalpinia Sappan, Rhusjara,. Cochineal dyeing fabrics. Perspiration fastness of Lithodpermum officinale were good. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good these fastness improvement were generatlly effected by post-mordanting treatment.

• 농업과학연구
• /
• 제43권1호
• /
• pp.109-115
• /
• 2016

Silk has had a reputation as a luxurious and sensuous fabric but it is not popular due to the expensive price and poor durability. To develop the silk materials that apply the various industries, the artificially synthesized gene can be introduced into the silkworm and expressed in the silk gland. Transgenic silkworms for the mass production of green fluorescent silks are generated using a fibroin H-chain expression system. For commercial use, safety assessment of the transgenic silkworms is essential. The purpose of this study was to examine the potential acute oral toxicity of EGFP protein expressed in genetically modified (GM) fluorescence silkworm and to obtain the approximative lethal dose in the male and female at 6-weeks ICR mice. EGFP protein was fed at a dose of 2,000 mg/kg body weight in five male or five female mice. Mortalities, clinical findings and body weight changes were monitored for 1, 3, 7, 14 days after dosing. At the end of 14 day observation period, all mice were sacrificed, and the postmortem necropsy were performed. The test group was not observed death case. Also the effect was not admitted by test substance administration in common symptoms, the body weight and postmortem. The results of single-dose oral toxicity test showed that approximative lethal dose of EGFP protein expressed in fluorescence silkworm was considered to exceed the 2,000 mg/kg body weight in both sexes.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제5권3호
• /
• pp.39-46
• /
• 2002

본 연구에서는 견직물의 스치는 소리가 감각 또는 감성에 미치는 영향을 살펴보기 위해 7가지 견직물의 소리를 녹음한 후, 역학적 특성과 소리특성을 측정하였다 또한 소리의 주관적 감각과 감성평가를 통하여 역학적 특성, 소리특성과의 관계를 분석한 후 역학적 특성으로부터 감성을 예측하기 위한 모델을 세우고자 하였다. 견직물의 스치는 소리에 대한 감성차원은 Elegant, Active, Tough, 그리고 Modern의 4가지의 요인으로 도출되었다 매끄럽고 유연하면서 가벼운 직물일수록 LPT는 낮아졌으며 Elegant한 감성을 유발하였다. 또한 매끄러우면서 전단방향으로의 변형이 적은 직물일수록 LPT와 Δf는 높아졌으며 Active한 감성을 유발했다. 거칠고 부피가 크며 두껍고 무거운 직물일수록 ARC는 높아졌으며 Tough한 감성을 유발했다. 그리고 거칠고 부피가 큰 직물일수록 Δf는 높아졌으며 Modern한 감성을 나타냈다. 직물별 감성은 수자직이 가장 Elegant하게, 견방사와의 교직물이 가장 Active하게, 그리고 능직과 노일사와의 교직물이 가장 Tough하게 평가되었다.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제28권1호
• /
• pp.62-75
• /
• 2020

In this study, clothing items recorded in Nappyemulmok (納幣物目) and Ugwimulmok (于歸物目) in the early 20th century were examined. These clothing items were recorded on the lists of goods for wedding gifts from the 1910s to the 1930s. A large quantity of these lists were organized into eight categories by analyzing the fabrics of each item of clothing. Representative fabrics used for skirts and Jeogori (such as Myeongju, 明紬) were used widely. Jeoksam was mostly made with ramie fabric. Pants mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of silk. Gojaengi mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of ramie. Danui (單衣) used silk fabrics such Pparinseu, Myeongju, and Gyoju for decorative features that were revealed when rolled up. Naeui (內衣) is believed to be the closest underclothes to the body, and Mumyung was mostly used. Dangmok and calico were used for the Yodae (腰帶) and fabrics such as silk, Nobangju, and JuhangNa were used for outdoor use. This type of categorization is significant, as it can be used as academic evidence to verify and reproduce the clothing of the time by identifying fabrics, colors, and characteristics of certain items of clothing. Lastly, it is expected that the analysis of clothing will provide theoretical data in the same way that movies, dramas, and museum exhibitions feature modern traditional weddings.

• 복식
• /
• 제49권
• /
• pp.49-63
• /
• 1999

This research utilized the Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy(EDS) and the Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry in the analysis of chemical elements present among the textiles exhumed from Kupori Hwasung-kun Kyunggi-do. The two research objectives were: first to examine the elements present and their percent presence in Kupori samples: second to investigate whether the elements are part of mordant substances which could have been used when dyeing the KUpori textiles in the past. To meet such research purposes standard silk fabric was dyed with Sophorajaponica using alum and iron mordants. For alum mordant unpurified general alum and potassium aluminum sulfate(AlK(SO4)2). iron sulfate(FeSO4·7H2O) were used, From the results of EDS and ICP-Mass analysis the following conclusions were drawn. 1 According to the EDS analysis 9 elements Ca, S, Al, Si, K, Fe, P, Mg and Na were detected. 2. ICP-Mass result of the mordant chemicas showed high amount of A, Al and k present in alum mordants and S and Fe present in iron mordants. 3. Comparison of the ICP-Mass results of the mordant chemicals and those of the standard dyed samples suggested that the amount presence of Al and Fe is a strong indication of the usage of alum and iron mordants respecticely in an unknown dyed textile. 4, In the washed Kupori textiles Fe showed a relatively higher rate of presence in the samples Therefore it can be conjectured that those Kupori textiles were dyed with iron mordant based on the result of the above number 3. 5. It is probable that the other elements detected from the Kupori samples were incorporated into the textiles as part of the soil debris produced from the degradation of the dead within the coffin or the earth debris. They can also be part of the inorganic compounds inherent in the silk textiles themselves before dyed. 6. Among the elements it is likely that Ca which showed a high degree of presence among the unwashed samples was part of the inorganic compound inferent in the silk textiles.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제16권3호
• /
• pp.492-498
• /
• 2014

Lotus(Nelumbo nucifera gaertn) is intimate plant to many people that it has clean and noble characteristics despite growth in the mud. Especially Lotus seedpods, byproduct of lotus, are rich in oligometric procyanidins and could be a new source of procyanidins. Procyanidins, also known as condensed tannins, are a class of polyphenols. In other words lotus seedpod contains plenty of tannins. Commonly tannins colorants could increase adsorption and fastness properties in fabric dyeing. This study was made to investigate colorants characteristics of lotus seedpod and various colorfastness properties of dyed silk fabrics. The wavelength of maximum absorption of lotus seedpod solution appeared at 273.5 nm from UV-vis spectrophotometer. From the results of FT-IR spectra measurements, IR absorption band of lotus seedpod colorants appeared at $3415cm^{-1}$, $2900cm^{-1}$ and $1620cm^{-1}$ by tannin structure. And tannin ingredient contents was the highest at pH 9 and flavonoid at pH 11. Lotus seedpod colorants showed relatively good affinity at pH 3 on silk fabrics and optimum dyeing temperature and time for silk was for 50 min, at $80^{\circ}C$. K/s of Light fastness according to different washing method was the highest at process including ironing and ${\Delta}E$ was the lowest. All of fastness(Light rubbing laundering perspiration dry cleaning) showed excellent results over 4 or 4-5 grades.

• 디지털융복합연구
• /
• 제16권12호
• /
• pp.593-602
• /
• 2018

본 연구의 목적은 적색계 천연염료를 이용한 견직물의 무매염 염색을 다룬 국내논문들을 고찰하여 무매염 염색의 염색성을 알아보는 것이다. 연구대상인 천연염재는 자색 고구마, 봉선화, 오디, 광나무 열매, 구아바 잎, 단삼, 히비스커스 꽃, 복숭아나무 전정가지로 총 8가지이다. 염색실험의 결과는 색차식에 의하여 $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, C 및 ${\Delta}E^*$와 Munsell표에 의한 H V/C, Kubelka Munk식에 따라 K/S값을 산출하여 표면색을 측정하여 살펴보았다. 염색실험 변인은 염액농도, 염색온도, 염색시간, 염색반복횟수이며, 변인의 변화에 따라 염색성과 색채특성을 알아보았다. 문헌고찰 결과, 염색실험 변인은 견직물에 대한 천연염료의 염착성과 상관관계가 있을 뿐만 아니라 적색 발현에도 상관관계가 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 천연염색 과정에서 환경오염을 일으키는 반복적인 염색이나 매염제 사용 등을 하지 않아도 적색이 다양하게 발현되고 염색성도 우수할 수 있음을 보였다.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
• /
• 제30권2호
• /
• pp.76-81
• /
• 2012

본 연구에서는 검정팥 종피에 함유된 천연색소에 대한 연구의 일환으로, 천연염료로서의 적용을 위해 염색조건 즉 염색온도, 염색시간, 염색 pH, 욕비에 따른 K/S 값을 측정하여 적정 염색조건을 설정하고, 여러 매염제를 적용하여 색상변화에 미치는 영향 및 견뢰도를 측정하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. pH에 따른 염색성에서는 견직물의 경우 pH 4에서 가장 염착량이 많았고, 면직물의 경우에는 주어진 범위 내에서 는 pH가 높을수록 염착량이 많았다. 2. 염색온도와 시간에 따른 염색성은, 견직물의 경우, 염색온도 $40^{\circ}C$와 $60^{\circ}C$에서는 전반적으로 염착량이 낮고 시간에 따른 염착량의 차이도 크지 않았으나 염색온도 $80^{\circ}C$에서는 시간이 경과할수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 면직물의 경우도 견직물과 비슷한 결과로 온도가 높아질수록 염색시간이 경과될수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 3. 견직물에 대한 매염제 종류별 표면색의 변화에서는 Fe 매염포만 YR${\rightarrow}$Y 로 변화되었을 뿐 다른 매염제에서는 매염후에도 색상 변화는 크지 않았다. Sn 매염과 Ti 매염포는 무 매염포 보다 $L^*$값이 상승하였으나 나머지 매염제는 $L^*$값이 크게 감소되었다. 면직물에 대한 표면색의 변화는 견직물에서와 같은 경향으로 나타났으며, $L^*$값에 있어서는 견직물과 다르게 Ni 매염포만 무매염포보다 $L^*$ 값이 크게 나타났다. 4. 매염처리 전 견직물의 일광 견뢰도는 무매염이 4~6등급, Al 처리포는 4~5등급, Cu와 Sn은 3~4등급으로 나타났고 Fe는 2~3등급으로 가장 낮게 나타났으며, 세탁견뢰도에서는 무매염 2등급, 매염제 처리포는 전부 2내지 3등급으로 나타났다. 무매염 면직물의 일광견뢰도는 1~2등급, Fe 매염은 2~3등급, Cu 2등급 Al과 Sn은 1~2등급으로 매염처리에 의해 전혀 개선되지 않았으며, 세탁견뢰도의 경우 Cu매염이 4등급으로 양호하게 나타났으며 무매염, Al, Sn과 Fe는 3등급으로 나타났다.