• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제13권4호
• /
• pp.576-588
• /
• 2005

The effect of chitosan pretreatment on the dyeing of cotton fiber and silk fiber was investigated. However, it has been difficult to evaluate the effect of the chitosan precisely, since the characterization of the molecular weight and effect of the degree of deacetylation were not elucidated for the application. The treatment effect may change diversely since the chitosan solution viscosity differs a lot based on the chitosan molecular weight. In this study, three chitosan specimens, varying in molecular weight, were applied for the fabric pretreatment in order to investigate the effect of chitosan molecular weight. Also, in order to maximize the efficacy of the chitosan, highly deacetylated chitosan specimens, meeting the deacetylation degree of $100\%$, were selected far the application. The air-permeability change according to the chitosan molecular weight change, influence on the mordanting, color change, and wash fastness change were investigated.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제35권2호
• /
• pp.67-81
• /
• 2023

This study aims to examine the possibility of using dried Dondropanax morbiferus extract as a functional dye. The leaves and branches of were extracted with distilled water and 30% ethanol, and the dyeability and functionality of silk fabrics were examined according to the color characteristics of the extract and dyeing conditions. As a result of analyzing the ultraviolet and visible light absorption spectrum of the extract, it was possible to confirm the peak of flavonoid belonging to polyphenol, and the peak of riboflavin expressing yellow color was confirmed. Adsorption equilibrium was observed at 4% dyeing concentration and 60 minutes of dyeing time, and as the temperature increased, dyeing amount increased without color change of Y-series. Aluminum mordanting also increased the yellow color. The color fastness of washing and UV irradiation was low, but the color fastness of rubbing was evaluated as relatively good. The silk fabric dyed with the distilled water extract of the leaves showed a 99.9% bacteriostatic reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae, showing excellent antibacterial properties.

• 박물관보존과학
• /
• 제11권
• /
• pp.61-72
• /
• 2010

본 고는 우리나라 황색계 염재인 울금, 황벽, 황련, 치자, 괴화로 염색한 직물편에 대한 비파괴 자외-가시광 분광 분석 및 3차원 형광 분광 분석 내용이다. 직물이나 매염제 종류에 따라서 각 염재의 분석결과에 영향을 주는지 여부를 확인하기 위하여 직물 2종류(견과 면)와 매염방법 3가지(무매염, 백반, 철)로 염색한 직물시편을 제작하였다. 이 염색 직물편에 대한 자외-가시 분광반사 스펙트럼 측정 결과, 울금, 황벽, 황련으로 염색한 경우 직물의 종류에 관계없이 무매염과 백반매염한 시편의 결과가 유사한 반면 철매염한 시편에서는 차이를 보였다. 또한 치자로 염색한 경우 직물의 종류에 따라 다른 결과를 보였으나 매염제에는 영향을 받지 않았다. 반면에 괴화로 염색한 경우 직물의 종류에 관계없이 매염제에 따른 차이를 보였다. 3차원 형광 스펙트럼 측정 결과 울금, 황벽, 황련으로 염색한 직물편은 직물과 매염제에 관계없이 고유한 형광 스펙트럼으로 나타났으나 치자의 경우 직물의 종류에 따라 차이를 보인 반면 괴화의 경우는 직물의 종류에는 관계가 없었으나 매염제에 따른 차이를 보였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제13권2호
• /
• pp.13-26
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the preference of design and body shape for korean baby-boom generation women. For this study, in-depth interviews were carried out to 11 women who were born in 1955~1963. They are called korean baby-boom generation. The results were as follows; 1) Korean baby-boom generation women care to their body shape, and they make much of the balance of body, not just looking slim. 2) Korean baby-boom generation women become more interested in their clothing, and they want to look with casual image than elegant image before. But overweight women preferred elegant image. 3) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer mix-match style for everyday clothes, but they prefer suit-set for formal wear. 4) When Korean baby-boom generation women choose of jacket or coat color, they consider more of their body-shape than season color. 5) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer plain style and jacquard with metal yarn. 6) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer out-door cloth fabric, at special time, they choose pure wool and pure silk. At ordinary time, they like more comfortable fabric like cotton mixed spandex or wool mixed spandex blends.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제16권6호
• /
• pp.1008-1016
• /
• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제11권1호
• /
• pp.66-74
• /
• 2003

This study is to improve the worst lightfastness of a natural dye. To modify the fiber surface, low temperature oxygen plasma was carried out on silk fabric. The result is followed below after the examination of surface shape, dyeability, color change, UV absorbent influence and lightfastness. 1. When electric discharge outputs are 60W, 80W and 100w, and processing times are 10minutes, 20minutes and 40minutes, the etching effect of surface increased as electric discharge outputs and processing times increased. 2. When examined UV absorbent for 5hours, 10hours, 20hours, 40hours and 80hours, the value changes of E are 1.47, 2.51, 2.91, 3.71, 4.51 and 5.31 in case of Al pre-mordanting/ prasma 80W, 20min./ UVabsorbent 5% (100:1), 2.31, 2.47, 3.84, 3.90, 3.61 and 4.42 in case of Al pre-mordanting/prasma 80W, 20min.1 UV absorbent 5% (o.w.f.). The lightfastness decreased when UV absorbent increased. 3. Dyeability of the samples pre-treated with five different methods was in the following order: plasma processing for 20minutes at 60W/Al pre-mordanting > Al pre-mordanting > plasma processing for 20minutes at 60W > Al after-mordanting. non mordanting Plasma treatment had superior effect on dyeability. 4. When UV absorbent was applied in fabric, the sample under higher electric discharge out puts showed more effective in improving lightfastness.

• 복식
• /
• 제29권
• /
• pp.117-126
• /
• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.

• 복식
• /
• 제54권4호
• /
• pp.129-144
• /
• 2004

The modems who lives complicated society, the silence which the Orient thought asserts leads and to get comfortable. It is becoming, the like this social atmosphere will in the interest regarding a manual example and the Orient material, the use of the embroidery textile goods is increasing specially. The purpose of this article is to suggest a model for development of machine embroidery fabric material and highly value added apparel industries. The multi-headed embroidery machine where the application scope is wide from the dissertation, we are requested' NaNa company'. The multiheaded embroidery machine uses TAJIMA TMFD-G620 and SUNSTAR SWF-／B-WD(X) 620-100 the embroidery textile uses the silk, the cotton and the synthesis fertile goods etc 24 type, the embroidery thread Maraton thread(viscose rayon 100％) with used the cord. The 8 Korean motives are made on 23 fabrics, 6 of which are full-sized manufactured one-pieces and the other 17 of which are produced to home interior goods such as curtains or fashion accessories like handbags as simulations. Among the products, the pattern-4-1 and the pattern-4-2 are contracted with local fashion industry, and the pattern-1-1～3 are dealing with other companies in Japan. The computerized machine-embroidering and simulation producing of fashion items are available to reduce the cost in making samples and transfer the old labor ＆ toil-centered industry into the new technique ＆ knowledge centered one.

• 복식
• /
• 제22권
• /
• pp.61-70
• /
• 1994

the purpose of study is to grasp the actual state of the textiles of Kojosun, Booyeo and Kogooryeo, by examining and studying about the excavated article of the textile of the Booyeo Age which was being gamered in the Research Institute of Study of antiquities of Civilization of gilimsung without being analyzed and examined after being excavated at September in 1990 and 1993, the textile of Kojosun Age wich was excavated and examined at East and North Gilimsung in China and the textile excavated and examined at the Kogooryeo grave at jiban China. 1. The kinds of textiles of Booye Age are warp kum plin weave silk plain weave bang gong Sa, and drawn and dyed textile, It is deemed that the real state of keum, Jeung and Hwi in the old literature of Sam guk Ji was grasped. 2. It emerges that more detailed wool than the wool fabric of China area of the same age was manufactured as the textile of Kojosun Age. hemp cloth corresponds to 12 Seung, in converting into fabric width of 50cm. 3. Keum was examined and reported as the textile of Kogooryeo Age and the real state of Woonkeum of Kogooryeo Age was grasped through "Wang ja moon keum" of Keumjang of mural of South and North I room of the grave that the same keum was excavated. The real state of dyed textile of hemp was grasped as the red hemp cloth was examined. Moreover the real state of development of advanced technique to weave with machine appeared by the grasp of inclination of loom with reed of Kogooryeo.Kogooryeo.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제7권1호
• /
• pp.23-32
• /
• 2005

This study attempts to address the development processing of yarn-dyeing jacquard design by using jacquard textile design professional CAD system to create high valued worth products. To carry out this purpose, two kinds of necktie samples were designed and each of them was different in three types of weaving method. The results are as follows; All over type is appropriate when the motive's size is small. And the work can be finished within short time and design can be illustrated by basic jacquard system. However, one point type can represent rather big and audacious motive but it needs lots of working hours and jacquard system. Though the motives are identical, showed many changes in cubicle representation according to weaving methods and the structure. To express simple and modest design, single fabric woven is suitable and in the need of colorful and technical design, expressing by double weft cloths and triple weft cloths rather than single fabric woven are better to give creativity and colorfulness. For the production of jacquard design, cad system using ability is important but the understanding and study of the whole process of weaving development should be made.