• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.263-274
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• 2001

This study investigated the dyeability on silk, wool and rotten fabrics dyed with Magnolia liliflora leafs. In addition, the fastness of washing, perspiration, rubbing, drycleaning and the effects of its pigment on bacterial reduction and uv-B protection were also investigated. The results were as follows : It was found that uv-visible absorption spectrum showed two strong absorption peaks in the range of $250{\sim}340nm$. The optimum dyeing condition of the pigments extracted from the Magnolia liliflora leafs was dyeing with 0.5% mordants and three repeated dyeing at $95^{\circ}C$ for 1hr. When the wool fabric was dyed with Magnolia liliflora leaf, dyeing properties was the best among the three fabrics. Washing fastness of dyed fabrics was very low, drycleaning fastness was good and the other fastness were good. Light fastness of three fabrics dyed by Magnolia liliflora leafs increased by mordant treatment, especially copper sulfate treatment. The bacterial reduction and uv-B protection of dyed wool fabric with Magnolia liliflora leafs also increased.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권9호
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• pp.1567-1580
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• 2010

This study investigates the effects of visual texture on color emotion and establishes prediction models for color emotion by both physical color properties and visual texture characteristics. A variety of fabrics including silk, cotton, and flax were colored by digital textile printing according to chromatic hue and tone combinations that are evaluated in terms of color emotion. Subjective visual texture ratings are also obtained for gray-colored same fabrics to those used in color emotion tests. As a result, fabric clusters by visual texture factors showed significant differences in color emotion factors that are primarily affected by physical color properties. Finally prediction models for color emotion factors by both physical color properties and visual texture clusters were established, which has a potential to be used to explain color emotion according to the visual texture characteristics of fabrics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.44-63
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the process to manufacture costume design of main female characters of TV historical drama and suggest the costume, which is developed with contemporary taste. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The study results were as follows. The costume was decided by researching historical investigation material on the basis of synopsis, grasping director's basic intention, setting design direction, preparing design map of each character, selecting style, detail, fabric and color, manufacturing sample and performing camera test. The design concept of was Modern & Chic & Clean, short & fitted chogori, chima with wide & abundant cocoon silhouette, clean & bright colors and 100% silk fabric. For the design discrimination of royal semi-formal costume, color was used to symbolize character and pattern was used to symbolize social status. In addition, detail change was adopted depending on the body shape of actor and there was almost no design discrimination in silhouette and fabric. Petticoat of the west, modernization of transitional pattern and change of detail were adopted as design elements to add contemporary taste.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.161-171
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• 2022

Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the "7000 Nylon" material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제37권11호
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• pp.157-165
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• 1999

This study was carried out to examine the effect of clothing materials and multi-layered textiles on thermal resistance value. Cotton, polyester, wool, silk, rayon and acetate were selected for the specimens. Thermal resistance value was tested with 2 kinds of methods(thermo labo II and BK type tester). The results were as follows; 1. The effects of clothing materials for thermal resistance value were decreased by adding layers. 2. When the fabrics are measured with multiple layers, the fabric of the lowest thermal resistance value at single layer was showed the highest increasing tendency for all test methods.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.59-69
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• 2016

This study aimed to understand the importance of applying finishing materials into interior space, and to add meaning to the creation of functional space, associated interior finishing materials with brain science. To achieve this purpose, brainwave(EEG) experiment was conducted. The brainwave appearing when sensing the surface of interior finishing materials with hands was measured. The locations of the electrode were FP1, FP2, F3, F4, C3, C4, P3, P4, O1, O2, F7, F8, T3, T4, T5, T6, CZ, FZ, and PZ and in addition to these, AFZ was added. Eight(8) kinds of finishing materials: metallic material, film paper, lumbar, stone, glass, silk wallpaper, fabric, and paint were used to measure '${\alpha}$-wave against ${\beta}$ wave.' As a result, it was found that the most activated finishing material in term of relaxation was film paper, followed by metallic, glass, paint, fabric, stone, lumbar, and silk wallpaper. To explain in light of this, (1) '${\alpha}$-wave against ${\beta}$ wave' was the most activated at ch1-FP1 and ch2-FP2, and at ch17-AFZ and ch19-FZ, which indicated that metopic-prefrontal lobe showed the highest activation in relaxation. Film paper, among the finishing materials, showed the highest increase in relaxation. (2) In general, '${\alpha}$-wave against ${\beta}$ wave' relaxation was inhibited at ch13-T3 and ch14-T4, and at ch15-T5 and ch16-T6 and the arousal in the temporal lobe was prominent. Silk wallpaper, among the finishing materials, showed the highest arounsal effect. As a result of measuring the superficial touch on the silk wallpaper, which was regarded as the most rough material among the eight finishing materials, the arousal effect of ${\alpha}$-wave against ${\beta}$-wave, among the brainwave characteristics, was found to be the highest. (3) to judge from the scope of this experiment regarding the tactile sensation over the finishing materials, it is considered that the brainwave reaction sometimes appeared contrastive depending on whether the surface was smooth or rough and there also appeared a difference in relaxation and arousal reaction of the brainwave depending on whether the surface was hot or cold, but the sensation on the surface texture was often evaluated differently depending on who you were. For this reason, this study has some limitations.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• 감성과학
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.133-140
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• 2006

본 연구에서는 의복 착용 시 직물이 스치면서 발생하는 왕복마찰음에 대한 물리적 소리특성과 주관적 감각을 고찰하기 위해, 왕복운동을 이용한 직물마찰음발생장치를 개발하고 이 장치를 이용하여 5가지 직물의 왕복마찰음을 녹음한 후, 총음압(LPT), 음압차(${\Delta}L$), 주파수차(${\Delta}f$)를 계산하였다. 왕복마찰음에 대한 주관적 감각은 7개의 소리감각(부드러움, 시끄러움, 날카로움, 맑음, 거침, 높음, 유쾌함)에 대하여 의미미분척도로 평가되었다. 나일론 태피터와 폴리에스테르 레노 직물의 왕복마찰음은 높은 LPT를 나타내어 시끄럽고 날카롭고 거칠며 불쾌한 소리로 인지되었다. 반면 LPT와 ${\Delta}f$의 값이 작은 폴리에스테르 울트라스웨이드와 실크 크레이프드신 직물의 왕복 마찰음은 부드럽고 조용한 소리로 평가되었다. 마찰방향(왕복 방향, 한 방향)에 따른 직물의 마찰음 비교시, 왕복 방향 마찰음은 한 방향 마찰음보다 더 날카롭고 시끄럽고 거칠게 인지되었으며 마찰방향에 상관없이 LPT가 소리감각을 예측하는 중요한 요인으로 나타났다.

• 보존과학연구
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• 통권32호
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• pp.25-35
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• 2011

천연물로부터 항균 및 방충작용에 효과적인 물질을 검색한 결과, 목초액과 세신추출물이 강한 생물활성을 나타내는 후보물질로 선발되었다. 천연 항균 및 살충제로서 선발된 목초액과 세신추출물은 자체에 색을 지니고 있어 이들을 이용하여 문화재 보존 처리제로 사용하였을 경우 유기질 문화재 재질에 나쁜 영향을 줄 수 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 섬유 재질에 대한 영향을 평가하기 위하여 무염색 섬유 시편과 염색 섬유 시편을 대상으로 두 종의 천연 살충소재를 $28^{\circ}C$ 온도와 70% 습도 조건에서 노출 실험을 실시하였으며, 천연 살충소재 처리 후 6개월 동안 이들 섬유의 색변화를 2주 간격으로 측정하였다. 그 결과 세신추출물의 경우 무염색 섬유뿐만 아니라 천연 염색한 붉은색과 푸른색의 섬유에서 또한 색변화가 크게 나타나지 않았으며, FT-IR spectrum 분석 결과에서도 초기 시편과 비교 시 큰 변화가 관찰되지 않았다. 그러나 목초액의 경우 무염색 면섬유에 있어서 3주차부터 뚜렷한 색변화가 관찰되었으며, FT-IR spectrum 분석 결과에서도 초기 시편과 비교했을 때 특정 파장대의 피크가 없어지는 것으로 나타났다. 그러므로 목초액의 경우 유기질 문화재 보존처리제로 적용할 경우 섬유 재질에 영향을 미칠 수 있어 사용에 제한을 두어야 한다.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제31권
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• pp.1-20
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• 2024

국립중앙박물관이 소장하고 있는 부석사 괘불(浮石寺 掛佛, 1684년, K969)은 사찰의 야외 행사에 사용하기 위해 제작한 대형 불화이다. 하단에 석가모니불을 중심으로 비로자나불, 약사불, 아미타불의 부처가 그려져 있으며 현존하는 괘불 중에서 가장 복잡한 구성을 보여준다. 본 연구는 부석사 괘불에 대해 바탕직물의 특성과 괘불 제작방법을 조사하고 채색에 사용된 재료를 판별하기 위한 비파괴 조사 결과를 종합하여 채색기법의 특징을 연구한 것이다. 부석사 괘불은 좌·우로 11폭, 상·하단으로 각 1폭씩 연결되어 총 13폭이며 중심 부분의 9폭은 생초(生綃), 사면을 두르는 4폭은 주(紬)를 사용하여 그림의 바탕을 만들었다. 그림을 그리는 데 사용된 채색 재료는 엑스선형광분석 방법으로 조사하였고 적색, 황색, 녹색, 청색, 흰색의 무기안료이며 황색과 청색의 일부에서는 연백을 먼저 칠하고 그 위에 유기안료로 색상을 표현했음을 확인하였다. 또한 검은 선은 먹, 가사의 문양에는 금박이 사용되었다. 엑스선조사는 안료의 주성분과 안료층의 두께에 따라 밝고 어둡게 보이는 차이를 판독하는 것으로 안료의 색상에 따른 채색 위치와 기법을 확인할 수 있었다.