• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.82-95
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• 2009

The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

Eco-friendly and health-functional clothing is now becoming the target of the worldwide hot trends. The purpose of this study is to develop an eco-friendly textiles to decrease environmental pollution and to be harmless for human health by investigating how the natural chorangak liquid treatment affects the changes of mechanical properties and the hand of silk fabrics according to different treatment conditions. Treatment was varied with various temperatures ($85^{\circ}C$, $90^{\circ}C$, $95^{\circ}C$) for 90 seconds after degumming. The results were as follows: 1) The natural chorangak liquid is the most effective at the ratio of glacial acid 200ml with eggshell 20g minimizing the time limit and sludge reduction. Its treatment of silk fabrics is optimized at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 seconds with 25% conc. after degumming when considering tenacity and elongation. 2) After the treatment, tenacity and elongation of specimen are increased compared with those of degummed silk fabrics. 3) After analyzing the effect of the treatment on the characteristic values of basic mechanical properties of silk fabrics, mechanical properties (tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface) are overall improved. The properties of thickness and weight are increased as well. 4) Based on the clear analysis on effects of the treatment on the mechanical properties and the hand of silk fabrics, the level of THV was enhanced from good to excellent. Therefore, chorangak liquid can be utilized satisfactorily as a new finishing agent for developing eco-friendly textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.53-75
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• 1998

The kind, the structure, and the motif of the Chosun dynasty's fabrics found mainfy within the Buddhist statues were studied. The total of 62 pieces of fabrice can be classified chronologically as follows ; 27 pieces in the year of 1431, 20 pieces of 1550, 9 pieces of 1664, and 6 pieces of 1735. These 62 fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 27 plain weaved, 17 twill weaved, 10 pieces of satine weaved, 7 pieces of Leno weaved, and 1 piece of double weaved fabrics. Most of the studied fabrics were silk, the rest were 2 pieces of yam and 1 piece of cotton, Kyun, Chu, and Cho were the plain weaved silk as Nung and Ki were the twill weaved silk, Satine weaved silk was called as Dan and double weaved silk was called Chikum in the Chosun dynasty. 1. The antique fabrics were composed of mainly silk. This is believed due to the utmost devotion to the buddhist statue as an object of worship. 2. In the fabric's structural point of view, th ecrossed 4-ply threads of warp yarn which is one of Leno weaved can be observed fre-quently in the period of Korea dynasty's fabrics. But it started to disappear in the beginning of Chosun dynasty, since only one piece of Ra could be found in the 1431's fabrics. Keum, one of the double weaved structure is assumed to be extinct from the Korea dynasty. Satin weaved fabrics started to be woven from the latter period of Korea dynasty and was very popular in Chosun dynasty. 3. The widths of fabrics in the Chosun dynasty gradually decreased compared with those of Korea dynasty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.825-833
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• 2013

In this study, the dyeing properties of Phellodendron amurense on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of dyeing methods using natural dyes with the ultimate aim of facilitating the practical use of these dyes. The optimal thickener and dyeing concentrations depending on the thickener type were identified when dyeing with P. amurense, and the fabric color, color fastness, and antibiosis were examined for various thickeners, fabrics, and mordants. The results were as follows.: The optimal concentrations of thickeners when dyeing on cotton and silk fabrics were CMC 3% (w/w), Mayprogum 7% (w/w), and Indalka 9% (w/w). The optimal concentration of P. amurense was 25% (w/w), irrespective of the type of thickener. To maintain the hue unique to P. amurense, thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al was effective for cotton, while thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al or thickening with CMC and mordanting with gallnut was effective for silk. The dry-cleaning fastness and abrasion resistance of cotton fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at the 4-5 level. Gallnut was effective for washing fastness and perspiration fastness against color degradation, and FFC was effective for light fastness. The washing fastness, dry-cleaning fastness, abrasion resistance, and perspiration fastness of silk fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at level 4, except for washing and perspiration fastness, and FFC was effective for the improvement of light fastness. Dyeing cotton and silk fabrics with P. amurense thus yielded antibiosis and excellent washing fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.2 s.8
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• pp.50-64
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• 2006

This study was performed the analysis on the final usage and the pattern type of Jacquard fabrics through the surveyed data from the domestic and foreign textile fashion magazines[Book Moda, Fashion biz, Vogue] during recent 5 years(2000-2004). The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1 Jacquard fabric mostly applies to apparel followed by accessory, interior decoration and bedding. As classified by uses, in apparel, it applies to One-pieces most followed by jackets and coats. In interior decoration, Slipcover uses Jacquard fabric most and then cushions, curtains and carpets. In accessory, neck ties use it most and then hand bags, hats and mufflers. In bedding, Jacquard fabric evenly applies to sheets, pillows, blankets and coverlet. 2. As classified by uses above, flowered patterns apply to each use most followed by geometric patterns, abstract patterns, ethnic patterns, art patterns and animal patterns. In addition, flowered patterns apply to apparel most and then interior decoration, accessory and bedding. Geometric patterns apply to apparel, accessory, interior decoration and bedding orderly. It is researched that abstract patterns and ethnic patterns also apply to apparel partially.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to research the characteristics of the pattern design and the weave construction of 67 fashion fabrics in women's Hanbok. All the fabrics were made by 100% silk. Arrangement, size, and the type of patterns were investigated for research of the pattern characteristics. Pattern weave and background weave were analyzed, then the weight and the thickness were measured for studying the fabric construction. The results were as follows. First, irregular arrangement was more commonly used than regular arrangement, and then the complex arrangement and the combination arrangement were appeared considerably because of the existence of the various patterns in a fabric. Third, the types of pattern weave construction were much more than those of background weave construction. This is caused by the expression of dimensional effect for patterns. This survey can be practically used for development of pattern design for Hanbok industry and furthermore it will contribute to revitalizing of Hanbok market to overcome design limit in the future.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.138-150
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• 2012

Nano Inkjet DTP technology, a new technology introduced recently, can be applied to various types of fabric, and pre-treatment process can be omitted, which makes the whole printing process compact. Some important factors for DTP are color difference between the color selected by the designer on PC and the color on the final product and durability of the final fabrics. In this study, the twenty-three trend colors of 2012-2013 F/W suggested by PeclersParis have been picked to be printed on cotton, silk and polyester fabrics, then K/S and ${\Delta}E$ value and color fastness were measured. The results show that dyeability of fabric is varied for each color group, and that also tone of color affect to dyeability when measured for colors in the same group. In general, for all fabric, light fastness, washing fastness and color fastness to sublimation are outstanding. However, because of poor rubbing fastness, additional treatment to fix colorant on fabric is required.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.117-137
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• 2011

This study analyzed historical records on silk tabby-ju(細), Si(總)- in a diachronic and spatial point of view. The historical records were written in Samguksagi(三國史記) of Korea, Eastern barbarian[東弟] section of Ershiwush(二十五史) of China and Ritkokusi(六國史)of Japan from the $4^{th}$ century to the early $10^{th}$ century. The study finally could reach the conclusions as follow. Firstly, records that fabrics like Ju were used were found in the Korean historical documents written on Balhae(渤海) of the $8^{th}$ century and Sllla(新羅) of the $9^{th}$ century. On the other hand, no official record on production of fabrics like Ju was found in the Japanese historical documents up to the $10^{th}$ century. Instead, there are some records that Si was produced and used for the first time in the $7^{th}$ century and it was rapidly spread in the $8^{th}$ century. In the $9^{th}$ century, the number of records on Si was sharply decreased and the importance of Si in the foreign-relation point of view also went down gradually. Secondly, records on using and trading with both Ju(細) and Si(總)in the foreign relation of two countries were shown from the $8^{th}$ century to the $9^{th}$ century. In the period, international exchange had been promoted among Balhae, Silla and ancient Japan. In the $9^{th}$ century, fabrics like Ju of ancient Korea was introduced to ancient Japan ancient Japanese people could not manufacture Ju by themselves at that time. On this account, we assumed that ancient Japanese people might consider Ju as high quality fabric rather than Si that had been used as general fabric. Meanwhile, it is found that Japan presented various kinds of Si to Balhae and Silla from the early $8^{th}$ century. As the foreign relation between Sllia and ancient Japan got weaker in the mid-$8^{th}$ century, frequency and amount of supplying Si to Balhae were relatively increased. Besides Si, Balhae was given a lot of silk yarn and floss. These fabrics presumably were used as raw material of Ju in Balhae because Balhae got low output of silk due to its geographical condition.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2008.04a
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• pp.102-104
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• 2008

Natural indigo dye was prepared by extracting from Polygonum tintorium, precipitating with calcium hydroxide, and dried. Dyeing was carried out using sodium hydrosulfite as a reducing agent for the prepared natural indigo powder. K/S value, color property, and colorfastness of dyed fabrics were investigated. Optimum dyeing conditions obtained were 60$^{\circ}C$, 20min. Regardless of indigo dye and sodium hydrosulfite concentration, Munsell hue of dyed fabrics was PB color. Compared to the dyed fabric with both sodium hydroxide and sodium hydrosulfite, those with sodium hydrosulfite only showed higher color strength(K/S value). Colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed high rating except of wash/dry cleaning fastness of silk fabrics dyed low color strength.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.134-138
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• 1993

Wool, silk and nylon 6 fabrics were treated with low-temperature plasma under atmospheric pressure of acetone/argon or helium/argon for 30 and 180 sec, and then dyed with leveling type acid dye, C.I. Acid Red 18 and milling type acid dye, C.I. Acid Blue 83. In spite of short time of the plasma treatment for thirty seconds, the color depth of wool fabrics was increased remarkably with both of the plasma gases, aceton/argon or helium/argon and with the kinds of dyes i.e., levelin type or milling type. But the atmosperic low-temperature plasmas did not increase the depth of silk and nylon 6 fabrics dyed with both of the acid dyes regardless of the teated time and plasma gases. It seems that low-temperature plasma by atmospheric-pressure discharge is effective for improvement of dyeing of wools as is the same way with the low-temperature plasma by glow discharge. The kinds of plasma gases and treated time did not influnce the depth of wool fabric pretreted with the atmosperic low-temperature plasmas.