• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.115-124
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• 2006

Natural dyes are environmentally and human compatible. But they are not various or not fast in color. The mixed dyeing have been attempted to solve these disadventages of natural dyes. The persimmon juice dyed fabrics have brown-color and good hygienic properities however low color fastness. The onion dyeing show similar brown-color and have good color fastness caused by querectin existed in onion outer skins. Mixed dyeing was carryied out on silk fabrics using persimmion juice and onion outer skin extract in this study. The mixing method were persimmon juice dyeing and then onion dyeing(P-O), onion dyeing and then persimmon juice dyeing(O-P) and dyeing in the mixture of persimmon juice and onion outer skin extract simultaneously(P+O). The mordants were none-mordent, gallic acid after-treatment and alum after-treatment. Several persimmon juice dyed fabrics were irradiated for 2 hours before onion dyeing(PU-O). The color values of dyed silk fabrics were as follows. The persimmon juice dyed silk fabric developed to yellow-red color after 2 hours of uv irradiation. Onion dyed fabrics show similar yellow-red color after dyeing without uv irradiation. The effect of alum after-treatment on color difference were highest in onion dyeing. The dyeabilities of both P-O and O-P were higher than persimmom juice dyeing and onion dyeing. The dyeabilities of P+O was lower than persimmom juice dyeing and onion dyeing. The value of color difference of alum-treated fabric was the highest. The color difference of P-O and O-P caused from 2 to 4 hours of uv-irradiation were lower than those of persimmon juice dyed fabrics. Onion skin extract could prevent the color-change of persimmon juice dyed fabrics in mixed dyeing. The color difference of PU-O was higher than the P-O.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.103-111
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to investigate the antibacterial efficacy of cotton and silk/rayon fabrics dyed with Saururus chinensis extract against antibiotic-resistant strains. The concentration of the concentrated dye in the Saururus chinensis extracts was 1.1% (o.w.f), and the liquor ratio was 1:10 at 30-70℃. The mordanting method was a post mordanting method. The concentration of Al2(SO4)3, CuSO4 5H2O and FeSO4 and7H2O mordant was 5% (o.w.f), and the liquor ratio was 1:40. In order to assess the antimicrobial activity of naturally dyed fabrics, Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) ATCC 33591, was used by incubating it in Brain Heart Infusion Agar (BHA) including Oxacillin (2㎍/ml) and Fungizone (2.5㎍/ml) and Brain Heart Infusion broth (BHI; Detroit, MI, USA.) The investigation of the reduction of the rate of antibiotic-resistant strains to dyed cotton fabrics and silk/rayon fabrics revealed that Cu mordanting fabric has the highest antimicrobial effects, with the rate of 99.7%, and Fe mordanting fabric has the lowest, with 77.7%. Non-mordant cotton fabrics also show a high reduction rate of strains (94.6%). In the case of dyed silk/rayon fabrics, it indicates a high reduction in the rate of strains in all fabrics with non-mordant treatment (94.2%), Al mordanting (99.6%), and Cu and Fe mordanting(99.9%).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.156-164
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• 2003

It has been known that the natural colorants exhibit good dye-uptake toward cotton, silk, and wool fibers, while they do poorly toward synthetic fibers. This study utilizes the chitosan treatment in order to improve the dye-uptake for the natural fibers and to enable the synthetic fibers, whose dye-uptake levels are low, show better affinity toward the natural colorants. Since chitosan has $-NH_2$ group and -OH group in the structure, the dyeability of the fabric will be improved when the fabric is treated with the chitosan. Cotton fabric as one of the natural fiber fabrics and nylon fabric as one of the synthetic fiber fabrics were selected for this study. 1. In case of cotton fabric, the chiosan treatment takes effect for the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal, resulting in remarkable ${\Delta}E$ increase after dyeing. Chitosan helps in developing dark shade by increasing the uptake of the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal. It does not, however, participate in the developing of the specific color as does a metallic mordant. 2. In case of dyeing cotton fabric with Gardenia jasminoides, the effect of the treatment with mordant and chitosan is not very pronounced. It is thought that the Gardenia jasminoides uptake is accomplished in a direct manner in the cellulose chains without the aid of mordant. 3. Air-permeability is decreased when the non-mordanted and non-chitosan treated cotton fabric is dyed with Caesalpinia sappan, cochineal, and Gardenia jasminoides. 4. In case of nylon fabric, premordanting and chitosan treatments are not highly effective in promoting the dye-uptake.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.65-73
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• 1986

These studies are carried out to improve silk availability for anticrease by useing methacrylate monomer polymerization method with in silk fiber. For this purpose, degree of anticrease, stiffness and shrinkage of various silk fabrics, included finish or not, after repeat of washings and polyster fabric was compared as standard. The adopted samples are ; 1. Polyester, Georgette, Woven density…90cm-85g/m 2. Silk, Twill, Degumed, Light, Woven density…90cm-90g/m 3. Silk, Twill, Degumed, Heavy, Woven density…90cm-200g/m 4. Silk, Stain, Degumed, Light, Woven density…90cm-90g/m The reached results are as followings. 1. The results of improving on anticrease by the finished method were about ten per cent increase against their original samples. 2. The light density silks showed satisfactory improve for anticrease, but the heavy one remained as rather poor condition. 3. The results for degree of textile stiffness were investigated to make sure reserve their textile feeling and observed to be good condition upon the finish work. 4. Textile shrinkage after the repeat of soap wash was investigated on indivisual test sample and silk fabrics showed more shrinkage than polyester which it seemed to be tentering shrinkage druning their general finishing processes. 5. The investigation showed that anticrease, stiffness and shrinkage of the sample textile were more or less deteriorated regardless silk or polyester by the repeat of washings. These matters are considered that such results were obtained because of the fiber fatigue nature. 6. The report reached that silk textiles should be used by dry cleaning methed after finish of any resin finish to reserve their improved anticrease nature.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.61-69
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• 1999

The dyeing experiments were done by using tannin pigments and herbs for natural fabrics such as ramie, hemp and silk. The anti-bacterial ability and color fastness were examined for dyed fabrics. Dye materials containing tannin pigment such as oak tree leaf showed rich dyeing on ramie, hemp, and silk fabrics when the pH of dye solution is lower as well as the dyeing temperature is higher. In crimson dyeing, the colour of fabric showed red-purple when the crimson pigment was extracted at 40$^{\circ}C$, while yellow-red when extracted above 70$^{\circ}C$. The colour fastness of dye materials containing tannin pigment was excellent showing 3~4 grade or above, while most of those derived from chinese medicine showed poor colour fastness of below 3 grade. The anti-bacterial ability of dye materials derived from chinese medicine was high, since the sappan wood fabric showed low bacteria reduction rate.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.670-687
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• 2014

This study focused on Jungchimak (coats with side slits) which was typically worn by men in the mid and late Joseon Dynasty. It was done research by examining the case of wearing Jungchimak centering on literature and paintings and analyzing its changes in terms of its form based on the relics that have been found in order to suggest the standard for the evaluation of the period of Jungchimak. Results are as follows. First, men who wore Jungchimak were the king, crown prince and Aristocratic under the official uniform or other robes or as ordinary clothes and shroud. Second, Jungchimak for king was mostly made of Dan (satin damask) and mostly jade green & navy in color, and it commonly used dragon pattern, cloud and treasure pattern, or grape pattern. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for crown prince was Dan & Ju (coarse-finished silk) and puple, green, jade green & navy in color. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for Aristocratic was Ju and indigo or white in color. Third, 251 relics have been announced until now. Most of them were made of silk fabric and had cloud and flower patterns. Fourth, Jungchimak showed changes through time in terms of collar and sleeve shapes, the ratio of armhole to sleeve opening, Geotseop (panel sewn on front opening for overlapping), Dang and Mu (side panel), the ratio of the total length of outer collar to the length of side slits, and the ratio of chest size to the width of lower end.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.91-108
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• 2017

Interests in 3D virtual clothing technology and its application in online shopping malls are increasing with the advent of the Fourth Industrial Revolution. Most studies on 3D virtual clothing, however, are focused on observing drapes or ease of virtual clothing depending on fabric properties of representative clothing items. Therefore, the purpose of this study is: first, to determine if current input of typical material characteristics in 3D CLO are sufficient to formulate virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes; second, to determine if subjective appearance evaluation matched physical shape characteristics of those skirts. In this study, appearances of typical cotton, wool, silk, rayon, and polyester skirts with different front and back pattern were compared between actual and virtual clothing depending on fabric materials. Subjective appearance evaluation was conducted by 7 experts regarding similarity between actual and virtual clothing with a 5-point scale. For objective evaluation of the both types of skirt shape, degree of roundness at the cross section, displacement of side seam, position of back waistline, and the number of folds at the skirt back were observed. In the case of cotton and wool, not the subjective appearance evaluation as well as shape characteristics of virtual skirts were well matched to the actual shape of skirts with a few material inputs. However, current material inputs for silk, rayon and polyester were insufficient to cover material differences in formation of virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.208-218
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• 2016

This study investigated the effects of the working mechanisms of proteins, mordants, and dyes, as well as the mordanting order, on dye uptake by silk fabric pre-treated with proteins and dyed with freeze-dried sappan wood water extract. Soybean protein and sodium caseinate were used as the proteins. 1. When Al mordants were not used, the dyeability of the fabrics increased upon protein pre-treatment as compared to the case without treatment. 2. Dyeing with protein pre-treatment, followed by mordanting, led to the highest dye uptake, and the optimal protein concentration was 5%. 3. The K/S values slightly decreased with an increase in the dyeing temperature, and the fabric turned dark red in color when dyeing was carried out at increasing temperature. Fabrics showed the highest dye uptake at $40^{\circ}C$. 4. Regarding the effect of time, the K/S values of the fabrics with and without protein treatment showed almost no increase after the initial dyeing time of 10min; further, there was hardly any difference in the cases with and without protein pre-treatment. 5. In case of protein pre-treatment fabrics, the washing fastness was level 2. The dry cleaning fastness showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing of the fabrics. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.