• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.37-41
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• 2002

The attaching treatment of sericin onto polyester fiber was attempted to improve its sanitary properties. Generally, sericin, a gummy material covering the outer layer of silk filament, is subjected to be removed during degumming process of silk textile process. For this study, sericin particle dissolved within the degumming waste water could be collected by sedimentation of polyaluminium chloride. It was revealed that sericin particle were attached onto the surface of polyester fiber evenly by treatment of glutaraldehyde, a crosslinking agent. A frictional static charge of the treated polyester fabric could be improved, while its hygroscopic property was little changed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.12-20
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• 2007

Four kinds of natural dying solutions (natural colorant extracts)were obtained by extraction from sappan wood, black tea, peony, and clove using water as extracting solvent at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 min with liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) of 1/10. The dyeing, colour fastness and deodorizing properties of fabrics (cotton, silk, and wool fabrics) dyed with natural colorant extracts were compared. It was found that these properties were significantly dependent on the concentration of extracts, the structure of colorant, and the kind of fabrics. The K/S value of dyed cotton fabric increased in the order of peony < sappan wood < clove < black tea, however, the values of dyed silk and wool fabrics were in the order of peony < sappan wood < black tea < clove. Colour fastness (light, water, and perspiration fastness) was in the range of 3 - 5 grade except for sappan wood. The deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colorants extracts was in the range of 56 - 99%. The deodorizing performance increased in the order of peony < black tea < sappan wood < clove. Especially, the deodorizing performance of all fabrics dyed with clove was found to be the highest at 98-99%.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.29-38
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• 2005

Natural dyes have attracted the worldwide attention because of its environmental advantage over synthetic dyes. However, most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store. In this study, coffee waste were used as natural dye to create beautiful colors. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provides a comparatively regular quality regardless of seasonand source. The effects of mordant agent concentration and mordanting temperature on dyeing efficiency of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordants. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color. The increase in mordant concentration did not always increase the dyeability, and 0.5% o.w.f. mordant concentration was enough to get a satifactory result. Mordanting temperature also had little effect on the dyeability in case of Al, Cu, and Sn mordanted fabrics. Only Fe mordanted fabrics showed a better dyeability in the increase in mordating temperature. Coffee extract dyeing is an effective way using waste as resource and can create brilliant colors with minimal amount of mordant and under mild mordanting condition.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.393-400
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• 2010

This study examines the mordanting effect and multi functional properties of silk fabrics dyed with onion shell extracts that were mordanted with gallnut. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the optimum dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the K/S value that depended the on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics were dyed with onion shell extracts. Second, the color, brightness, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with gallnut were investigated by measuring the K/S and Munsell value. Third, the color fastness and antimicrobial activity were measured. When silk fabrics were dyed with onion shell extracts, the optimum dyeing conditions were a dyeing temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, a dyeing concentration of 160%, and a dyeing of time 30min. After mordanting with gallnut extracts, the K/S value increased remarkably and was larger in pre-mordanting than post-mordanting. The H value displayed yellow-red in all cases of pre and post mordanting. However, the H value was more reddish in the order of non-mordanting

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2002

The aim of study was to elucidate dyeability and antimicrobial and antifungal activity of silk fabrics dyed with Sophora Radix extracts according to different mordants. Dyes were extracted from Sophora Radix using ethanol. Then, silk fabrics were dyed with extracts two times by post-mordanting method in which the extract was 60%(owf), the mordant was 3%(owf), L.R was 1:20, the temperature was $60~60^\circ{C}$, the time of dyeing was 60min., and the time of mordanting was 60min. The dyeability was evaluated by surface color, K/S values and durability of dye. The skin microorganisms used in this study was S. sureus, B. subtilis, S. epidermidis, P. acnes, P. aeruginosa, E coli, A. niger, C. albicans and T. mentatrophytes. The results are as follows; 1. When mordants were added, K/S value of silk dyed was not improved much and surface color was 2.2Y to 8.8Y in H(hue) value which indicated greenish yellow to raddish yellow 2. The color fastness tests to light, perspiration, dry-cleaning, rubbing, and stain fabric washing show 4~5th degree which were valuated excellent. The color fastness to fade washing was improved to 3~4th degree by addition of $K_2CrO_7$ mordants. 3. Antibacterial activity of silk dyed using no-mordant as well as mordants was excellent on S. aureus, B. subtilis, S.epidermidis and P.acnes, but showed poor antibacterial activities on P.aeruginosa and E.coli such as gram negative baterials 4. Antifungal activity of silk dyed with ethanol extracts was good on A.niger, C.candida and T.mentagrophytes. Especially, on T. mentagrophytes there was no growth of fungus during 72 gous in silk dyed mordanting with $SnCl_2\cdot{2H}_2O$.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.249-258
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• 2002

Natural silk is formed by two proteins : the crystalline fibroin (inside the silk thread) and amorphous sericin (as a tube outside the thread). The degumming process is used to eliminate the external sericin prior to dyeing ; generally it makes use of soaps at about pH 10. Sericin is the protein constituent that "gums"together the fibroin filaments of cocoon silk. It constitutes about 25% of the weight of the cocoon, is soluble in hot water and "gels" on cooling. The removal of sericin from raw silk, known as degumming, is a simple but important process usually employing hot dilute soap or alkaline solution and occasionally dilute acids or enzymic methods. During degumming, alkali is taken up by the sericin and the free acid from the soap is formed ; this may be deposited on the fiber, reducing the rate of degumming and protecting it from hydrolysis. Alkali is often added to maintain or restore the pH of the baths, but it is rarely used alone, since it leaves the silk rather harsh in handle. If complete sericin removal is required as for printing, sodium carbonate may be added. If the pH of the bath exceeds 11, the fibroin is attacked. Recently, According to the development of electrolysis, we can be obtained the electrolytic reduction water(above pH 11.5) and electrolytic oxidation water (below pH 3). The aim of this work was to study a degumming process using electrolytic water and a possibility of sericin recovery. The new degumming process used electrolytic water operates at $95^\circ{C}$ for 2hr. without any reagents. The wastewater of this process are formed by a solution of sericin in water. This conditions suggest the study of a possible recovery of this protein (sericin) which has an amino acid composition suitable for many used in cosmetics, textile finishing agents, animal feeding, etc. The degumming process using electrolytic water is available to reduce treatment costs and pollute and at the same time to recover sericin.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.127-136
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• 2011

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of color characteristics on tactile sensation / sensibility image of silk fabrics and to provide prediction models for their tactile sensation/sensibility image by both mechanical properties and color characteristics. As results, some of tactile sensation/sensibility terms including 'smooth', 'buoyant', 'thick', 'stiff', 'unique', 'casual', 'rural', and 'modern' seemed to be influenced by color characteristics such as achromatic/chromatic and hue / tone as well as by mechanical properties of silk. Moreover, red or green silk was more strongly felt than gray ones for 'thick' and 'stiff' as well as pale or vivid was. On the other hands, 'Rural' and 'casual' were respectively evaluated more highly for green, pale, or vivid silk. These results imply that color could give an effect on subjective tactile sensation / sensibility. Finally, prediction models for some of tactile sensation / sensibility of silk fabrics by both mechanical properties and color characteristics were established.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1453-1464
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the hand of spring/fall fabrics for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' on subjective hand, objective hand and the preference. In this study, 28 varieties of spring/fall fabrics such as cotton fabrics, synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' are used. To evaluate the subjective hand of fabrics, the holistic touch and preferences, 33 seven ranks' segmentic differential scale questions are developed with adjective pairs and are gathered by surveying experts on clothes. The mechanical properties, HV and THV of them are measured and calculated by KES-FB system. Through subjective hand, items could be classified into six hand expressions: 'bulky/extensibility', 'stiffness', 'feeling of weight', 'surface property', 'drapability' and 'moisture property'. Through mechanical properties, the results indicated that the character of cotton fabrics are slight flexible, tough, rough, uneven, a bit heavy, thick and low resilience on tensile and compression, and then those of synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric are thin and light, smooth, flat and bulkless. In correlation on subjective evaluations and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok', cotton fabrics mainly depend on 'surface property' and 'moisture property' and then synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk depend on 'bulky/extensibility' and 'surface property' In correlation on objective hand and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok'. people aren't satisfied with low resilience. high stiffness and low drape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.874-881
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• 2013

Dansam (Salvia miltiorrhiza Bunge) is a perennial plant that belongs to the Labiatae family and is characterized by red pigment found in the epidermis of its roots. Research on the dyeability of Dansam extract was performed with repeated trials under various conditions such as temperature, time, and mordant treatment. Silk fabrics were dyed with Dansam extract and mordanted with various agents such as Al, Fe, Cu, and Sn to evaluate the dyeability and functionality of Dansam extract; subsequently, the K/S value and the change of surface color were analyzed using a colorimeter. In addition, the dyeability of dyed fabrics (such as color fastness to washing, dry cleaning fastness, rubbing fastness and light fastness) and functionality (such as antibacterial activity and deodorization) were analyzed. The surface colors of all dyed fabrics were recorded and the results showed the presence of mostly YR series of colors; in addition, a GY color series appeared in the Fe pre-mordants of the silk fabric. The highest K/S values were recorded in Fe post-mordants. The washing fastness were Level 3 and Level 4; in addition, the dry-cleaning fastness showed excellent results at Level 4 and Level 5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory at Level 3 and Level 4 and the light fastness was satisfactory at Level 4. The results of the measurements (that pertained to the antibacterial activity of fabrics dyed with Dansam extract) showed a 99.9% bacteria reduction rate of Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. In regards to deodorization ability, dyed fabrics were found to have higher deodorization rates than those not dyed. The dyed fabric demonstrated exceptional deodorization qualities.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.778-789
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• 2011

The natural dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. Mixed components of flavonoid and tannin seem to be the components of guava leaf extract. The temperature and time for dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. The highest K/S value was recorded at pH 3. Fe-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. High K/S values were shown in the post-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $40^{\circ}C$ and the pre-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $90^{\circ}C$. After repeated dyeing and mordanting, various color change occurred with mordant treatment. Surface colors were changed to YR color in alkaline water extract and to Y color in acidic water and ethanol extract, respectively. The washing fastness was level 3-4 for Sn-mordanted fabrics and level 4 for Fe-mordanted fabrics, and the dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory with level 3-4. The light fastness was above level 4 only when Fe-mordanting was conducted, and the rest of dyed fabrics was not fast enough. In the antibacterial activity, the powder of guva leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity and Staphylococcus aureus showed 99.6% in dyed fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.