• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.10-19
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• 2006

Despite several recent attempts to measure the concentration of individual catechins by HPLC, it has not been so easy to separate catechins accurately. The aim of the present work is to provide a proper condition for separating each component of catechins by HPLC analysis, and also to evaluate the experimental variables including color differences, and metal ion contents after dyeing and mordanting. Four kinds of Catechins, (-)-epicatechin(EC), (-)-epicatechin gallate(ECG), (-)-epigallocatechin(EgC), (-)-epigallocatechin gllate(EgCG) were isolated from the residues after dyeing. Catechins in Korean green tea leaves are richer when e tea leaves are younger. Higher concentration of catechins owes it to e way it is processed. The contents of catechins adsorbed in silk fabrics after dyeing were in order of EGCG>ECG>EGC>EC. We have found $68\%$ uptake of EGCG, and 116.8mg of EGCG in the silk fabrics after it was dyed with $1\%$ Korean green tea extracts. The absorbance intensity and K/S values of dyed silk fabrics were increased with dyeing temperature and time. Only the surface color of the silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was yellowish red, but it changed from yellowish red to red with an increase in the mordant concentration. Post-mordanted silk fabrics with ferrous sulfate changed from yellowish red to red and purple color shade. In a practical evaluation, there is no significant change in color after twenty times of the continuous dry cleaning process. However, post-mordanted fabrics with ferrous sulfate faded the brightness of color after dry cleaning. Dyeing silk fabrics with a Korean tea extract reduced the metal ion contents in the silk fabrics when compared to the untreated silk fabrics. Metal contents in silk fabrics dyed and post-mordanted with $1\%$ each metal solution were 0.194 ppm for Aluminum, 1.601ppm for Copper, and 0.334 ppm for Iron. After the post-mordanting process, the heavy metal ion absorption increased, which was mainly attributed to the catechins and polyphenols in dyed silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.26-43
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• 1973

This study was carried out on the Sewbility of Urethane Foam usually used as coldproof lining. The Sewability was estimated with the Puckering Grade and Seam Efficiency according to the thicknes of urethane foam, fineness and material of sewing thread, and the sort of covering fabric. The result shows the following ; 1. The thick foam proportinally shows the low Puckering Grade. 2. Effect on the sewability is small in fineness of sewing thread but large in material. Especially silk thread shows the greatest sewability in foam sewing. When the material of covering fabric is same as that of sewing thread (for example ; p/c fabric and p/c thread) the sewability is excellent in special. 3. Taffeta in covering foam is not suitable to foam sewing, satin and twill show superior sewability without reagrd to the thickness of foam. 4. In case of sewing foam covered with tricot, optimum thickness of foam and fineness of sewing thread through pretest must determine. 5. The thicker foam is the better seam efficiency tends, and Seam Efficiency largely effects to the strength of the sewing thread itself. 6. The seam Efficiency can heighten with the strength of sewing thread in proportion to that of covering fabric.

• Journal of Internet of Things and Convergence
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.33-38
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• 2020

It was reported that a mobile application was designed to easily provide natural dyeing information such as natural dye related resources, colors and dyed fabrics in 2007. Since studies on the linkage, application, etc. between natural dye dyeing and IoT are still lacking, diversity of information on the change of dyeing pattern by natural dye dyeing is required. In this study, it was to construct dyeing information by natural dyes, e.g., Lithospermum erythrorhizon, on silk, which has been traditionally used as many fibers in Korea. The extraction of the dye from L. erythrorhizon was carried out under pH4. The dried root of L. erythrorhizon showed dark brownish purple. Silk fabric by a without a mordant typically showed a purple dyed pattern. In the staining by sodium tartrate plus citric acid, silk fabric was stained clear brown. Interestingly, the mordant of iron (II) sulfate, the silk fabric was dyed in a light gray color rather than black. When the mordant of aluminum potassium sulfate was treated with L. erythrorhizon-extracted dye, the results were almost the same as when the mordant was not treated. When the degree of dyeing was evaluated numerically, the treatment of the mordant of potassium dichromate was about 50% darker, and the dyeing by iron (II) sulfate was about 75% darker. These results will be helpful in the study of applying various dye colors using L. erythrorhizon, and it will provide information on dyeing controller and database system construction by dyeing parameters such as dyeing degree, pH concentration, and chromaticity change.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.33-46
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability of silk on extract of Artemisia princeps, The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method. comonent of fabric, kind of mordant. The experimental study was done by laundering fastness, abrasion(dry/wet) fastness, perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness, light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, in the C. C. M test on mordanting methods, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference, color was most yellow-greenish, Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabrics, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It is considered that silk has -$NH_2$ , -COOH, -OH than more than cotton. Third, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed that color-change was 2~3 grade, the contamination on attached fabric was 4~5 grade. perspiration fastness(acid/alkali) showed 4~5 grade nearly and those of acid was higher than alkali. abrasion fastness(dry/wet) was 4~5 grade and in Fe(3~4 grade) was lower than the other mordants. Forth, in color difference analysis on mordants, Fe(50.0) showed the highest and the order of color difference was alum(16.0), Cu(7.2), Sn(3.5), Al(3.1), Cr(2.3), The Hue was turned into yellow-greenish in alum mordant treatment, the luminocity of color was most dark in Fe(-48.9) and Cu(-7.2), chroma was the highest in alum (15.7) method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.263-269
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• 2002

This research was conducted to establish the efficient use of the colored rice bran fur dyeing textiles. To investigate the fabric dyeability of the colored rice bran extract, the anthocyanin pigments were extracted with water of different temperature ranges of 40 ~ 8$0^{\circ}C$ and were dyed on silk fabrics with different dyeing temperature $25^{\circ}C$~6$0^{\circ}C$, at acidic pH and neutral pH, respectively. Aluminum chloride was preheated with mordant K/S value and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics were examined. The anthocyanins of the colored rice bran were stable and red color at acidic pH, red purple or purple blue at neutral pH, but unstable, blue color at alkaline pH. If extracting temperature and dyeing temperature of dyeing solution were higher, the dyeability was high, but the color of dyed fabric showed red tone. When extracting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and dyeing temperature of dyeing solution was 6$0^{\circ}C$, the dyeability was best. Without mordant, the dyeability of silk fabrics was higher in acidic pH than in neutral pH solution. With mordant, the dyeability was higher than without mordant, and also higher in acidic pH. Pretreatment of aluminum chloride resulted in the increase of color intensity and stability. The laundering fastness of dyed fabrics was good from grade 5 to grade 3-4. Because of the anthocyanins sensitivity on light radiation, the light fastness of dyed fabrics was poor from grade 3 to grade 1-2.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.28-28
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• 2001

Four kinds of neutral sodium salts with different anions, NaF, NaCl, NaBr, and NaI, were added to the dye bath to accurately understand the effect of anions on the reactive dyeing of silk with C. I. Reactive Black 5. The sodium cation lowered the negative surface potential of the silk and increased the dye-uptake on fille fabric as reported previously. However, because of the discrepancy in the anions′inhibition power from cation′s lowering the surface negative potential the amount of the dye on the silk fiber was different from each other in the order of $F^-\;>\;Cl^-\;>\; Br^-\;>\;I^-$. The activation energy($E_a$) for the dyeing was in the order of $F^-\;>\;Cl^-\;>\; Br^-\;>\;I^-$ but the dye-uptake on the fabric and the activation free energy(Δ$G^*$), the real energy barrier for the reaction, were in the order of $F^-\;>\;Cl^-\;>\; Br^-\;>\;I^-$ because the strength of the interaction of the anions with sodium cations was the same as the order of the latter. In other words $F^-$ exerted the weakest electrostatic force on $Na^+$and competed with the dyestuff anions least of all. The decrease in Δ$S^*$may be due to the looesly bonded activated complex of dyestuff anions, sodium cations and fiber molecules at transition state. It was clarified from the Bronsted equation that sodium salts with different anions also had fille ionic strength effect and the specific salt effect on the reactive dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.754-764
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• 2010

Most silk fabrics are produced only after the degumming process to make the best use of the properties and have restricted silk processing that do not hinder their performance. However, considering the highly increased preference for natural fibers and the shortage of raw silk, high-quality upgraded silk product functions are required by the development of a processing technology and a good design. This study analyzes the changes with the samples by the functional finish such as softening finishing, wash and wear, tannin weighting by measuring the objective hand of scoured silk and three finished ones using KES-FB. As a result, the change of objective hand of finished silk fabrics that improves functionality was analyzed and compared. The increase of KOSHI after the finish became stiffer show that the silk fabric samples are appropriate for summertime clothes with the retention of a certain clothing climate for the body. The stiffness of finished fabrics for the normal had a closer relationship with the density of fabrics than the type of finishing. The samples (after the softening finishes) maintain better elasticity according to the properties of the softener and the finishing agent. Although the specimens of this study were thin fabrics, their elasticity against compression increased after the softening finishes and became softer than degummed silk. The surface properties of georgette were changed by all types of finishing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.136-148
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• 2009

The phenomenon of the shrinkage of silk fibers induced by inorganic salts including LiBr, $Ca(NO_3){_2}$, and $CaCl_2$, has been studied up to the present as one of the finishing methods of silk. It is expected that the shrinkage phenomenon may greatly contribute to the realization of the high sensibility of silk fibers. Especially the shrinkage enables the expression of three-dimensional appearance of silk fabrics along with the improvements in dimensional stability, resilience in stretching, and comfort. Numerous theoretical studies on the contraction phenomenon by $Ca(NO_3){_2}$ have been conducted so far. These studies have focused mostly on the silk fibers. It is difficult to find studies on silk fabrics. The negative aspects of the finishing are such as strength drop, yellowish discoloration, and fiber damage. These should also be considered as well as the positive aspects. In this study, the phenomenon of salt shrinkage is diversely reviewed by applying $Ca(NO_3){_2}$ solution for the silk fabrics as objects. The changes in the air permeability, thickness, and color were investigated with focus on the shrinkage of the silk fabrics according to the changes in treatment conditions. Some findings from this study are as follows: Within short period of time at the initiation of salt shrinkage, the salt shrinkage proceeds effectively. In the case of concentration of 47.4%, or 46.3% of $Ca(NO_3){_2}$ solution, appropriate treatment time seems to be 20seconds, or $2{\sim}8$minutes, respectively. Excessive shrinkage is obtained when lower liquor ratio is adopted. As a result, the condition is acting extremely disadvantageously against the thickness and yellow discoloration aspects.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.161-170
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to find the reasonable plan for the restoration method through the practical repair of excavated costume. The minimal repair only without adding the physical force as far as possible after investigating the state of excavated costume has been progressed in case of excavated costume since it is already degraded and weak due to the characteristics of organic matter at the moment when it is excavated. Moreover, it has been restored as the following course; The restoration has been applied according to the state of excavated costume with the maximum stability by classifying items capable of being restored considering the fabric state of excavated costume. The drawn thread from the weak in strength and the refined thread of the Juasa(simple gauze) or the light degraded silk thread has been used in case of thread for restoration. The cotton fabrics has been used in the fabric of cellulose system, the Juasa or the silk has been used in the silk depending on the kind of fabric in connection with the support fabric, some parts have been dyed with Alnus firma fruit and the persimmon, has been repaired by using the dyed fabric with the clove for the purpose of mothproof-antibacterial treatment. The method to repair has been carried out by classifying according to the state of damage and the way of formation of costume. The needlework method suitable for the part and state of damage by using the basting, the broad-stitching, backstitch, the blind stitch and the hemming stitch in connection with the needlework method for restoration.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.57-66
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• 2005

In natural dyeing, a number of supplementary methods have been practiced since deep shades of the dyed fabrics are not developed satisfactorily. The methods include using the mordants effectively or subjecting the fabrics to reiterated dyeing processes. In this study, we obtained deep shades in the dyeing of fabrics using Rhusjara ica as the dyestuff and applied chitosan to the fabric specimens in order to diversify the colors. Silk fibers and PET(polyethylene terephthalate) fibers were pretreated using chitosan, and subsequently dyed using different types of mordants. As the mordanting agents, Al, Sn, and Fe were employed. Various shades have been resulted in since the interactions of the mordants are different toward the silk fibers and PET fibers. In this study, we investigated the effect of the chitosan treatment along with the change of the mordanting agents on the color change for the silk and PET fibers.