• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.45-61
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• 2015

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used Al mordant agent and greenish yellow color by Fe mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by Fe mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by Al pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by Al pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.77-86
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• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 1998

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing method : on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics with the extract from Gardenia. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absolution bands of Amur cork tree, Gardenia extract was 440nm respectively and the wavelengths 440-460nm after the mordants were added in the color extracts(The bands of Gardenia extract shifts to short wavelength side as pH increased.). In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased. 2. The main color substances in extract from Gardenia were expected to be cretin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. For silk and cotton fabrics dyeing with Gardenia extract, $SnCl_2$ was the best mordants. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5-10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by synmordanting had a greater effect K/S value. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Gardenia extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perpiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained 1 level showing without any effect.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.270-280
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• 2012

This study examined the dyeing characteristics of five oriental herbs, namely Gardenia jasminoides, Sophora japonica L., Rheum coreanum, Rhus javanica L., Ginkgo biloba L., on fabrics with traditional fermentation using malt. And the properties of Hwangsu (mineral water) of Yeongcheon (Korea)as a mordant in the post-treatment of textile were evaluated. The dyeability and fastness of cotton fabric and silk to light and washing as well as different fermentation periods and temperatures were investigated, and the following results were obtained. The dyeability of the fermented and non-fermented material did not show a significant difference. Fabrics mordanted with Hwangsu generally exhibited a reddish color due to the presence of iron. The dyeing of cotton fabric and silk by fermentation and Hwangsu mordanting were found to be effective on Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum. These results were confirmed through fastness to light 3 of cotton on Rheum coreanum and 3-4 of silk on Rhus javanica L., respectively. The washing fastness of both fabrics dyed with fermented Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum was improved, showing higher K/S value after washing than before washing.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.43-47
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• 1993

Using the new scouring soap made from rapeseed oil, various scouring test was done souring effects of new scouring soap were estimated. In the effects of scouring soap on the degumming ratio, OS (the soap made from oleic acid) was the most excellent and the next was RS (the soap made from rapeseed oil). Both OS and RS were more excellent than MS (the soap on the market). In a buffer power of soap solution, OS and RS were good, but MS was poor. The uneven dyeing was not observed in the silk fabric degummed by OS and RS, but observed in silk fabric degummed by MS. The value of tenacity and elongation in the silk degummed by OS and RS was higher that degummed by MS. In the crease recovery, softness and whiteness, the order of value was OS, RS, MS.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.34-42
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• 2002

In order to investigate the light fastness of Korean knotweed extract, the concentrate were prepared and dyed to silk fabric under the various conditions, such as kinds of mordants, methods of mordanting, and the dye concentration. After the deed fabrics were irradiated for several hours, the color differences and K/S values were measured. Additionally, the light fastness of Korean knotweed extracts and Emodin in liquid solution was compared. The light fastness of silk fabrics deed with Korean knotweed extract was improved by the Introduction of Fe-mordant, but the surface colors on the dyed fabrics shaded into reddish and dark yellow by 80hours irradiation. Color difference of fabrics were increased wish concentrations of Korean knotweed extracts. So inconsistent fading behaviour was observed. Color difference of dyed fabrics increased remarkably at the early stage of fading and became slowly down except for Fe-mordanted fabric. Absorbance of Korean knotweed extracts and Emodin in liquid solution were extremely decreased with concentrations of colorants, so inconsistent fading behaviour was observed too.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.65-74
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• 2003

The Purpose of this study is to investigate the jeogori included in the buddist statue in 1748. The jeogori was similar in shape to excavated costume of Andong Kwon, Papyung Yoon, and Chungyeongunju in 18th century. This jeogori was useful to estimate the interesting process of shape change of jeogori in 18th century. Four different silk fabrics were used in the jeogori. Outer fabrics were satin weave with floral, lattice strip, dragon, and cloud patterns. The ground area was 5-harness warp faced satin and the patterned area was 5-harness filling faced satin. An inner fabric was simple plain weave. Warp and filling yarns of all fabrics in this jeogori had no twist.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.12
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• pp.1257-1269
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• 2012

The dyeing behaviors of berberine chloride, palmatine chloride hydrate, and Phellodendron bark extract on silk fabric were investigated to evaluate palmatine as another chromophoric substance of Phellodendron bark. The dyeing conditions were composed of combinations of pH (3, 5, 7, 9), temperature (10, 30, 55, $80^{\circ}C$), and time (10, 30, 60 min). The results indicate that palmatine was comparable to berberine in the dyeing behaviors tested for this study and the results were statistically significant. The dye exhaustion and dye uptake of palmatine-CH were slightly lower than berberine-C, which however were not statistically significant. Similar to berberine-C, palmatine-CH favored a pH 7 condition for both dye exhaustion and dye uptake. However, palmatine-CH favors a higher dyeing temperature and longer dyeing time than berberine-C for superior dyeing results.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.50-56
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• 2003

Chitosan has been widely applied to the products in various industries such as textile fabrics, apparels, foods, medical area, etc. Cochineal has long been employed as one of natural dyestuffs in the textile industry. The effect of chitosan pre-treatment on the low-stress physical and mechanical properties of cochineal-dyed fabrics including cotton, silk, nylon and polyester fabrics was investigated in this study. The chitosan treatment and mordanting of the fabrics changed the bending, shear, compression, and surface properties of the fabrics. In cotton fabric specimens, while the increase of B(bending rigidity) of cotton is relatively high, the increase of G(shear rigidity) of cotton is relatively low. In nylon and PET fabric specimens, while the increase tendency of B is relatively low, that of G is high compared to the corresponding cotton fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.648-659
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• 2012

This research categorizes fundamental data needed to develop eco-friendly fabrics treated with bamboo leaf & pine leaf extracts. The effect of mordant on those fabrics was analyzed through the measurement of mechanical properties and the estimation of primary hand values for cotton and silk fabrics dyed with bamboo leaf and pine leaf extracts that were later treated with various mordants. When cotton was dyed with bamboo leaves and pine leaves extracts, EM, WT, 2HB, 2HG, 2HG5, LC, T, and W increased however, RT, SMD, and RC decreased compared to raw cotton fabric. The B, G, and MIU increased after mordant treatment to the dyed cotton and resulted in a stiffer and rougher cotton's hand. EM, WT, RT, MIU, WC, T, and W increased (in terms of silk); however, LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, MMD, SMD, and LC decreased compared to raw silk fabric. Similar to the dyed cotton, mordant treatment increased the MIU and LC of dyed silk subsequently, the hand became stiffer and rougher. A greater tannin adsorption results in an increased mechanical property and the primary hand value. For both fabrics, mordant treatment made its smoothness drop. However, the scale of drop for cotton was significant, while the scale of the drop for silk was minor. In terms of type of mordant, femordant and natural-mordant treatment influenced the tensile, shear, surface properties of fabrics, and primary hand values more than Cu-mordant and synthetic-mordant in addition, this increased the stiffness, hardness, and roughness of fabrics.